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57 Chrysler Imperial brake light issue


GasWorksGarage

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Looking at a wiring diagram the brake light switch sends power to the turn signal switch and then out to the brake lights. Almost all manufacturers do it this way. It keeps the front turn lights separate so they don't turn one when the brakes are applied. I would say turn signal switch.

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On any car that shares the bulbs between brake and turn signal (that would be 99.9% of American antiques with factory turn signals), the brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch after the brake light switch.

 

All of the suggestions in this thread so far are good.

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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5 hours ago, GasWorksGarage said:

Bob,

 

how does the turn signal switch effect the brake lights?

 

Thanks.

As mentioned above. The turn signal switch separates the rear and front turn signals into two circuits.

Front for turn and indicator, then rear for turn and brake as it further separates right and left brake lights..

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7 hours ago, GasWorksGarage said:

Bob,

 

how does the turn signal switch effect the brake lights?

 

Thanks.

 

Explained above by others. Basically the 12V power supply exits the brake switch and goes to the turn signal switch where all the PFM happens. Follow the 12V's from the brake switch to the turn switch. If it enters and exits the switch to L & R rear brakes, keep following it until you find where it's interrupted. Since both rears are not working the turn switch is the most likely culprit. With luck it's an iffy connector but i'd guess not...........Bob

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That does not make sense. Unless it grounds a wire to make a turn signal??????? 

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Apparently it uses a relay to perform the functions usually done by the turn signal switch.

 

s-l300.jpg

 

You'll need to find where it is to test. A wiring diagram is going to be a necessity at this point. How does the cancel function work? There must be a switch or contact of some kind in the steering column to unlatch the relay.

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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57 to 60(?) Imperials do NOT have a stalk/lever on the steering column for the turn signals. 

1957 uses a rocker switch mounted on the dash next to the steering column 

1958+ uses a pivoted flipper switch to select R and L.  (and a little button in the middle to stop the flashing)

The canceling mechanism remains in the steering column but it affects the relay. 

 

Yeah, really strange. Perhaps they thought that the ergonomics of a switch on the dash might be better ????

As I remember Chrysler returned to the lever for 1961. 

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5 minutes ago, m-mman said:

57 to 60(?) Imperials do NOT have a stalk/lever on the steering column for the turn signals. 

1957 uses a rocker switch mounted on the dash next to the steering column 

1958+ uses a pivoted flipper switch to select R and L.  (and a little button in the middle to stop the flashing)

The canceling mechanism remains in the steering column but it affects the relay. 

 

Yeah, really strange. Perhaps they thought that the ergonomics of a switch on the dash might be better ????

As I remember Chrysler returned to the lever for 1961. 

 

That, and there is a relay, and a cancelling switch. I'm officially in way over my head boys. I'm out...............Bob

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Yeah, we really need more information to continue. In the mean time imagine this: Two latch relays inside the magic box, one for right and one for left. A switch in the steering column that is normally "on", but goes "off" once or twice in the rotation of the wheel.

 

1) 12v goes to the switch in the column, and then on to the coils of the latch relays. To engage a signal, the dash switch, a momentary switch, grounds the coil of one of the latch relays, pulling it in. When the relay pulls in, it engages a contact that keeps the coil grounded, so the relay stays in when the dash button is released.

 

2) When the steering wheel is turned, power is interrupted to the entire system, and the latch relay releases. EDIT: The switch might interrupt the latch contact's path to ground rather than the 12v supply. Either would work.

 

The contacts in the latch relays, other than the extra one that holds the relay in, are just the same as the contacts in a normal column switch. It should work about like this:

 

1) 12v is supplied to a flasher, "flashed" power goes on from there to the relay assembly.

 

2) 12v is supplied to a brake light switch and switched power goes on from there to the relay assembly.

 

3) The two (or more) rear brake/signal bulbs are normally connected to the brake light switch when the signals are off.

 

4) When you turn a signal on, one set of contacts connects a front signal bulb to the flasher

 

5) Also when you turn a signal on, another set of contacts disconnects a rear bulb from the brake light switch and connects it to the flasher.

 

What you just read is entirely a wild guess based on the picture of the switch and relay. Don't put too much stock in it, although I'll bet it isn't far off. Further troubleshooting is gonna take a wiring diagram and a multimeter. I'm sure we can figure this out. Funny, I have driven Imperials with the switch on the dash, and never really gave any thought to how it worked until now.

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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Here is what I have thus far,

 

When I turn on the right signal it stays on as normal until the steering wheel is moved then it cancels. When I rock the switch for the left signal it will not stay on I have to hold the switch in the left position. So I believe that the switch under the steering wheel is bad at least. I have to find the relay and test it. I want to thank all for your input. and thanks to m-mman for the diagram. 

Keep the info flowing.....

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The aftermarkets I have seen that will cancel will have a small rubber wheel that rides on the steering wheel.

I have never used one of those, however I have installed aftermarket switches.

Then I drive around with the turn signal on.

I have toyed with the idea of one of those buzzers or chime thingies that can be found under the dash of later cars at the wrecking yard. (you know, those warning devices if you leave the lights on etc.).

I have mocked one up with a tool made from same that I use for checking for voltage. But never did make a permanent one.

 

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