Jump to content

certjeff1

Members
  • Posts

    146
  • Joined

  • Last visited

3 Followers

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

certjeff1's Achievements

500+ Points

500+ Points (2/7)

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

62

Reputation

  1. I have a 1954 Mercury in my shop that was torn apart 10 years ago. I am installing the new wiring. The horn ring wire that goes down the column is missing. Where does it come out to meet with the wiring under the dash going to the horn relay? The owner did not take any pictures and does not remember. He does remember the horn working before tearing apart the car. Running my hand down the column I do not feel any obvious openings.
  2. What is the outside diameter of your field case?
  3. If an ammeter is wired backwards then you will show charge when discharging and discharging when charging. Meaning when you are cranking the engine the ammeter will show a charge. This usually happens when people convert from positive to negative ground or vice versa. Ammeters are like water meters the current flows thru them so when they go bad you get a no charge situation.
  4. I agree start with checking the charging system. If an engine dies while driving and the battery is dead and will not operate the starter. Start by checking the charge rate.
  5. I have the correct 828941 drive you are looking for along with the brushes you asked about the other day.
  6. I have several hundred of those brushes NOS in stock. 440-439-1100
  7. I agree with Joe start by making sure you have 12.6v at the main battery connection at the starter. If not go to your horn relay. GM used the horn relay as battery distribution junction point. What happens to your voltage when you try to crank the engine? Does it crash or does it maintain? Crashing generally indicates at battery issue. Maintaining indicates a cable issue.
  8. To answer your question Yes it is possible to have a stuck start brush and still charge as these units have 2 separate commutators for start and charge. The start commutator has 2 brushes. New the brushes are 7/8" long.
  9. GM part #579500 is what my Motor manual shows as a part. oldsolete.com shows they have one and there is one for sale on ebay.
  10. I dont have a starter or an armature. I do have a couple of contacts that can rewind the armature.
  11. 55 and 63 are the two most popular 6v light bulbs. For best pricing go to rockauto.com. For leds try superbrightleds.com
  12. I agree with checking the dimmer switch first if park and dash lights work. The dimmer switch is usually easier to get to to run any tests. Power goes from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch for both low and high beam. If the wiring diagram I have is right one of the two outer terminals will be your headlight switch power feed.
  13. I dont have one, but there is one for sale on ebay.
  14. Your slow crank when hot is the most common electrical issue on classic and custom vehicles I see 20-25 of these problems every summer come thru my bays and even more people come thru with a starter in hand to be tested on my test bench. I have been rebuilding for 37 years and have specialized in classic and custom electrical for 21 years. My family has been in the automotive electrical industry since the 1940's. Most people blame heat soak of the starter and install all kinds of crazy heat deflecting shields without ever putting a meter to the system. The most infamous vehicle we have had through our shop had 9 starters installed by 3 different shops to cure the original problem. Each shop just kept changing starters, blaming their supplier until the owner got tired of it and moved on to a different shop. Most likely giving the impression that the last starter they installed solved the problem. Therefore they are probably still fixing this problem the same way. There are a 3 causes for your problem. 1. Internally in the starter. I always eliminate this the moment the customer tells me that the starter has already been replaced without fixing the problem. Typically old starters with worn bushings, brushes, spacers or insulators will cause this issue. 2. Battery cables. Most commonly with 6v is undersized cables. Something that gets overlooked with cables are the terminals. When teaching a class I tell people to take a magnet with them when buying cables. To test the clamp and lug to make sure they are not attracted to the magnet. Cheap cables use steel which is the worst conductor. You want lead, copper, aluminum, brass or gold. All of which are nonmagnetic. 3. Undercharging generator or alternator. 99 out of 100 people will never even consider this and it is by far the most common flaw that I see. 6v systems need 7.2v to 7.5v rate of charge for the type of driving most owners of classic vehicles do these days. Most trips are short 30 minutes or less around town and in stop and go traffic at slow speeds. Not 2 or 3 hours at highway speeds. Generator systems have different charging characteristics then alternators so don't be so quick to make adjustments or replace parts without being very thorough in your testing. Just as you check your starting system for voltage drop you should check your charging system for voltage drop. Generator charging voltage tends to fall off at idle. So when checking your system check at idle, at normal driving speeds, lights on and lights off. Check with transmission in and out of gear.
×
×
  • Create New...