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About certjeff1

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  1. What is the outside diameter of your field case?
  2. If an ammeter is wired backwards then you will show charge when discharging and discharging when charging. Meaning when you are cranking the engine the ammeter will show a charge. This usually happens when people convert from positive to negative ground or vice versa. Ammeters are like water meters the current flows thru them so when they go bad you get a no charge situation.
  3. I agree start with checking the charging system. If an engine dies while driving and the battery is dead and will not operate the starter. Start by checking the charge rate.
  4. I have the correct 828941 drive you are looking for along with the brushes you asked about the other day.
  5. I have several hundred of those brushes NOS in stock. 440-439-1100
  6. I agree with Joe start by making sure you have 12.6v at the main battery connection at the starter. If not go to your horn relay. GM used the horn relay as battery distribution junction point. What happens to your voltage when you try to crank the engine? Does it crash or does it maintain? Crashing generally indicates at battery issue. Maintaining indicates a cable issue.
  7. To answer your question Yes it is possible to have a stuck start brush and still charge as these units have 2 separate commutators for start and charge. The start commutator has 2 brushes. New the brushes are 7/8" long.
  8. GM part #579500 is what my Motor manual shows as a part. oldsolete.com shows they have one and there is one for sale on ebay.
  9. I dont have a starter or an armature. I do have a couple of contacts that can rewind the armature.
  10. 55 and 63 are the two most popular 6v light bulbs. For best pricing go to rockauto.com. For leds try superbrightleds.com
  11. I agree with checking the dimmer switch first if park and dash lights work. The dimmer switch is usually easier to get to to run any tests. Power goes from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch for both low and high beam. If the wiring diagram I have is right one of the two outer terminals will be your headlight switch power feed.
  12. I dont have one, but there is one for sale on ebay.
  13. Your slow crank when hot is the most common electrical issue on classic and custom vehicles I see 20-25 of these problems every summer come thru my bays and even more people come thru with a starter in hand to be tested on my test bench. I have been rebuilding for 37 years and have specialized in classic and custom electrical for 21 years. My family has been in the automotive electrical industry since the 1940's. Most people blame heat soak of the starter and install all kinds of crazy heat deflecting shields without ever putting a meter to the system. The most infamous vehicle we have had thr
  14. This is not uncommon. Both of those gears are interchangeable because they have the same pitch. There are different length armatures to be used with each gear. Rebuilders used the same part number for every Ford flathead from 1932 to 1953 the most popular aftermarket part number was the Lester number 3103. The starters were sold minus the gear. Because they are external the bendix was considered extra. The gears are held to the armature in different ways making it easy to identify which gear goes to which armature when the gears are removed. The starter at the bottom and pointing with the bend
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