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About certjeff1

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  1. You will not find one on any shelf. I would recommend investing in making the car as reliable as they were when they were new. People did not ride around with extra batteries back in the day. You can keep it original 6v and be just as reliable as any 12v system. You can keep the generator system and have it be just as reliable as any alternator. I don't care what any of todays mechanics say.
  2. Based off of a couple of quick measurements. I might have what you are looking for. I will do some better more accurate measurements tomorrow. Jeff
  3. Steve Yes I have both the generator and starter brushes in stock. Jeff
  4. I am looking for the glovebox light switch for a 1949 Cosmopolitan.
  5. I look at your question of mechanical vs electronic simply from a diagnostic view. As I believe both are reliable. With any type of mechanical item you can see wear and you can see burned and with experience you can learn what caused burned and make the required repair and eliminate a possible future repair possibly under warranty. With electronic they are usually sealed making it hard to see what inside failed. Making it hard to learn the difference between poor manufacturing and other problems with the vehicle that caused the failure. I will always recommend to the novice or newbie to the old car hobby or car repair in general that they keep the mechanical parts and learn how to spot worn vs burned and what can cause each part to burn. That was how I was taught at 14, by my dad and grandad, while learning to rebuild starters and generators in the family business. It wasn't until I had a couple of years under my belt that they gave me an alternator, with its electronics, to rebuild.
  6. To get this straight you turn on the ignition switch and the lights turn on. You turn on the headlight switch and your fuel pump turns on. And all you did between this happening and everything working correctly was clean the headlight reflectors nothing else? Those switches when wired correctly have nothing in common. I would check to see how the wires were run out from their respective switch. If they are in the same protective loom or tape they could be melted together. This could also explain your lighting issue if it was not solved by cleaning the reflector.
  7. Mick 33362 is d-12-cx in Standard, ohio,sterling and pyramid brands. d87 in gilfillan 32247 is d-12-c in Standard,ohio,sterling and pyramid brands. d85 in Gilfillan. I have a set. You can call me if you are interested 1-440-439-1100 Jeff
  8. The way most cars are wired the front turn and indicators use the same circuit. The rears to keep from back feeding the fronts and causing the fronts to also light with the brake pedal pressed are run separately. Since the brake lights and turn lights are the same bulb.I would suspect the turn signal switch. I would disconnect the wires from the switch and send power to each bulb from that point. If they are bright then you have a bad switch. If they are dim I would trace the wires back.
  9. Studebaker used the same Bendix part #R11X from 1920 to 1929 regardless of using a Wagner or a Remy starter. Starting in 1930 they used R11XV which used a larger counterweight for better cold weather starting.
  10. Like Jack said power your horns to see if they are good. Your horn relay should have 3 horn connections. 1 constant power, 1 to the horns and 1 from the horn button. Once you have the relay wired correctly to the horns. You will have 1 wire going up the column to the horn contact inside the steering wheel. If you ground that wire your horns will work. Is your steering wheel the original or has it been changed to an aftermarket? I see so many aftermarket, especially Grant brand, steering wheels where the horns do not work and they end up with a toggle like you have. With original steering wheels I find the contacts rusted and you do not get a good ground. With aftermarket steering wheels I find the horn contacts are not assembled correctly.
  11. The most popular sizes found at auto parts stores are .157" or .195" with a .220 measurement most likely Rhode Island Wiring, YNZ yesterday or Narragansett Reproductions. Since they specialize in reproducing wiring harnesses.
  12. If you are not using a trailer with electric brakes or an electric winch then I would just change the bulbs as the others have said. Doing a 12v conversion on your vehicle will take more time and cost a more in parts than say a Ford or Chevy of the same vintage. The main reason being is you have 2 unique items on your Plymouth that there are no exact 12v replacements for. Headlight bulbs and ignition coil.
  13. My Standard Auto Electricians book says Autolite #CB-4014 for the cutout. I don't have one. There is a guy selling some on ebay item #253169304091.
  14. What happened before this? Was the car in storage for the winter? Had you been making repairs to another problem? How long since it last started correctly? Did you just go to the store one day and no start since? Put a voltmeter on the battery and try to start the car. Watch the voltmeter what does the voltage drop to? If it crashes you either have a locked up motor or a battery that will not handle the load. If it does not drop at all you most likely have a cable problem.