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Everything posted by certjeff1

  1. I recommend John Wolf in Cleveland. I have used them for years. 1-440-942-0083
  2. I also recommend John Wolf have used them for years. 1-440-942-0083
  3. You are not going to damage the diodes. I have been building alternators for 35 years.
  4. Disconnect any wiring to the alternator. Using jumper cables go from the battery straight to the alternator. Take the negative to the alternator housing. And tap the positive to the output terminal on the rear of the alternator. If you do not get any sparks it is a negative ground alternator.
  5. Dirty or loose connections create high resistance and thus poor, low or intermittent charging voltage. Not an excessive reading. The light simply turns on the alternator. If you have a bad bulb the alternator will not turn on. As far as loose or poor connections in the light circuit causing charging problems this will not happen. If he had said that there was no voltage in the red wire at the regulator then that could cause voltage excessive readings as that is the regulator voltage sensing wire. And if the regulator reads no voltage in that wire it thinks the battery is dead and tells the alternator to produce everything it has. But changing engine rpms will not put the alternator into normal charging range. It will be high until you fix that wiring problem. Yes bad connections at the alternator can cause output problems. Always poor or low readings. You will see a normal 14v reading at the alternator output post and a much lower reading at the battery.
  6. 17 plus volts sounds to me that you are in a full field situation and that would also be why you hear the alternator whine. If you put an ammeter in the circuit you will probably see 37 to 55 amps. When an alternator is producing amperage it creates a whine. The more amps the louder the whine. When the system falls into the normal voltage range you will probably see the amperage go down as well. And the alternator quiets down. It is very common with mechanical regulators to see the voltage rise slightly as you take the engine up from idle. Not the other way around. At this point because you have your light function back and the voltage does drop into the normal range I would say your wiring is fine. I would take the regulator off and test it with an alternator on an alternator test bench. If you get the same readings on the test bench then yes you have a bad regulator if you get good readings then you have something wrong in your system and it is affecting this regulator differently than the other one.
  7. Also check the red wire in the regulator plug. This is your battery sense and must have battery voltage at all times.
  8. Yes if your regulator is rubber shock mounted then you must ground it . Delco regulators usually have a predrilled hole on the metal base by the single mounting ear specifically for a ground connection. I also ask why you were making the change to start?
  9. For sale 1 power window motor and the power driver seat switch, motor, relays and wiring. Everything works. The power window motor spins in both directions. The seat moves forward and back. Up and down, tilt forward and back. The seat framework is cracked and bent. See all pictures. Video of items working available.
  10. I'm with Jason. I always ask for the cutout or regulator when we do generator work. It is easier and you have fewer variables when you make any regulator adjustments on a generator test bench. As long as your guy has a test bench he can spin the generator with then he can run the generator and regulator as a set and make any adjustments. I'm not saying you can't make adjustments on the car. But when someone is not familiar with making adjustments you could end up costing yourself a regulator. And Standard Motor Products does not just hand out replacement regulators for free.
  11. Thank you guys for the endorsement. If we can help give us a call 1-440-439-1100.
  12. I have installed many alternators and alternators inside generators on classic cars over the years. There are many reasons people make the choice that they make, cost, look, reliability and functionality. There are some things you should know going in. Because early cars idle at lower rpms then the cars that come equipped with them from the factory you will need to get a smaller diameter pulley then that of your generator otherwise you will have the same no/low idle charge rate. Also alternators have a very distinct whistle to them that generators do not have. It will over power the normal sound of your engine. The whistle changes based on electrical load and rpm. Many people complain thinking there is something wrong. Lastly alternators require more belt tension than generators. This can cause problems with other belt driven items such as water pumps if they have soft bushings inside rather then bearings. You can only tighten them so much. With alternators inside generators you have to watch how they are constructed. If you simply press a smaller alternator into a generator you can create a internal cooling problem. I think one of the hot rod magazines did an article on this years ago. They had a high failure rate on hot days. Also with this design you have a very small group of alternators to choose from and this creates a parts availability issue. I had one that used a 1970's Isuzu design inside it. Not many parts available for it anymore. You can go with a Powermaster brand they have limited applications but used a common GM alternator design. I know there are a couple of companies out west that if you send your generator they will convert it, but have not had any dealings with them.
  13. Take your time. If you can get the correct part you are better off. But at least this gives you an option and you can always keep up the search. You can never have enough parts for these old vehicles.
  14. Including shipping I would like $25.00.
  15. Yes it is 17mm. I tried the pulley on an armature it feels good and tight. No that hole does not go thru. Not sure why that is there.
  16. Looked thru my pulleys. The closest I have is for 26-28 Chevys and Pontiacs. It is smaller in diameter by about 1/2". From the back side to the center of the v is just over 1/2".
  17. The mesh is correct. Remy was the only company I have ever seen use mesh. I have a total of 20 of the mesh type brush and 4 of the solid copper brush. Jeff
  18. certjeff1

    Starter Drive

    I come up with starter Delco-Remy #726-C and it used 16789 Bendix. I bought over 1000 NOS and NORS Bendix gears last year and that is not one of them. But I would recommend Van Bergen and Greener to rebuild your if it is rebuildable. My family has used them for over 70 years. Jeff
  19. Steve I have looked thru several of my original Delco-Remy parts manuals and none of them show a pulley part number. Which tells me that the vehicle manufacturer supplied the pulley not Delco-Remy. I do have an assortment of pulleys. I might have something but can't promise. Jeff
  20. Mike According to my Remy catalog it shows the brush having a braided wire lead with a flag terminal with 2 holes. Is this what you have? Jeff
  21. Paypal invoice is on its way. My company name is Certified Auto Electric.
  22. Yes paypal works. Just need email address.
  23. For customs purposes how do you want me to list these? I can do gift or commercial sample.
  24. I recently purchased several thousand generator and starter brushes. I have over 300 different part numbers covering Atwater-Kent, American Bosch, Bijur, DeJon, Delco, Delco-Remy, Electric Autolite, Ford, Gray & Davis, Leece Neville, Northeast, Owen Dyneto, Remy, Wagner and Westinghouse. These are NOS Ohio, Pyramid, Standard, Gilfillan, and Kem. I have taken them out of their original packaging and stocked them in bulk as we have some numbers with over 300 quantity. Still making my way through all of my purchase. I even found a pair of brushes for the 1912 Cadillac motor/ generator system that I am restoring for a customer. I have catalogs for 1920 applications and up. With some info for earlier applications. I will sell individual sets and bulk. You can post to this or PM or call 440-439-1100 8A-5P ET M-F.
  25. Thor Yes we can ship to Australia. Using a USPS flat rate padded envelope it will cost $35.95USDS to ship. I have a price of $10.00USD per brush. Do you want the oe northeast set or a set of aftermarket? Jeff