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Everything posted by certjeff1

  1. I agree with checking the dimmer switch first if park and dash lights work. The dimmer switch is usually easier to get to to run any tests. Power goes from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch for both low and high beam. If the wiring diagram I have is right one of the two outer terminals will be your headlight switch power feed.
  2. I dont have one, but there is one for sale on ebay.
  3. Your slow crank when hot is the most common electrical issue on classic and custom vehicles I see 20-25 of these problems every summer come thru my bays and even more people come thru with a starter in hand to be tested on my test bench. I have been rebuilding for 37 years and have specialized in classic and custom electrical for 21 years. My family has been in the automotive electrical industry since the 1940's. Most people blame heat soak of the starter and install all kinds of crazy heat deflecting shields without ever putting a meter to the system. The most infamous vehicle we have had thr
  4. This is not uncommon. Both of those gears are interchangeable because they have the same pitch. There are different length armatures to be used with each gear. Rebuilders used the same part number for every Ford flathead from 1932 to 1953 the most popular aftermarket part number was the Lester number 3103. The starters were sold minus the gear. Because they are external the bendix was considered extra. The gears are held to the armature in different ways making it easy to identify which gear goes to which armature when the gears are removed. The starter at the bottom and pointing with the bend
  5. The R could have been added to denote that it was a rewound.
  6. Lets start with the easy question premade wiring harness either YNZ yesterday or Rhode Island wiring have factory correct harnesses. 6v to 12v conversions always gets a lot of conversation. WHY DO YOU want to convert? Are there problems that you are having, poor cranking dim lights? These are things that can be corrected without converting. Are you looking to modernize the electrical system? Adding a modern radio, lighting things like that. Converting your car is going to be more expensive and difficult then someone converting a Model A or a Chevy. According to my diagram your wipers are elect
  7. GAR2214 fits 31-38 Nash & Lafayette. The GDZ2006F fits 40-49 Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, Hudson, Packard, Plymouth and Studebaker. They are different. Most old manuals do not give dimensions so they could be the same in that regard, but the charging ability is most likely going to be different as the applications for the GDZ call for higher amperage generators.
  8. Not sure why they had such a problem with the armature it was used in many different delco starter numbers. It used the standard straight splined shaft. Just a little longer for the Buick mounting housing. The solenoid because of the relay is usually the hardest part for rebuilders that don't see alot of the older starters. The other thing I see is some manuals list the 6 cylinder starter as a replacement for the 8 cylinder. Problem is the 8 cylinder uses 4 field coils and the 6 uses 2. Making that switch usually causes slow cranking issues. The 1107908 is the correct number for the limited so
  9. The powermaster powergens are very good. The best part is they used the popular GM CS130 alternator internal parts as the basis for their design. So down the road it is repairable.
  10. Yes. You have a couple of options, there might be more. Powermaster with their powergens or genernator.com. I have not used genernator.com. I have used powermaster. The nice thing about their unit is down road if it goes bad they are repairable as they used the GM CS130 alternator internals. Not sure what genernator does.
  11. First check the 2 small wires on the solenoid. One goes to the push button, this is your power. The other goes to your regulator ARM or GEN terminal this is your ground. If you have power and ground then yes I would remove the starter and check it on a bench and repair as needed.
  12. You are not going to find that part. They all disintegrate. What I do is use 1940's- 1950's Delco-Remy 6v starter field case and commutator plates. I first did this on a 1919 Anderson starter years ago. The later end plates are either cast iron or cast aluminum.
  13. I believe I have several good rebuildable cores. I will look thru and let you know Jeff
  14. certjeff1

    Starter Drive

    That is Delco-Remy #16810. I do not have any of that part number. What I do have is a 16798 which is the same design with a different gear. It might be possible to take 2 to make 1 good gear assembly. But I cant guarantee it. Looking at yours I don't think it is rebuildable. Jeff
  15. If you cannot find the armature and field coils or if you do find them but want spares for the future contact International Winding Co in Chicago IL 1-800-323-7521 they will rewind the armature and hand wind a new set of field coils. I have been using them for years. Jeff
  16. If you cannot find a set contact International Winding Co in Chicago IL 1-800-323-7521. They will wind you a new set by hand. I have been using them for years. You will need to send them the field coils, pole shoes and field case. Jeff
  17. When I talk about grounds do you have any small body grounds in the system. Most likely from the factory you only have a main battery ground. You might need to add small 12ga body grounds to the system. Adding them where? That depends on where you have mounted the light assemblies. You might even need to add one to the firewall. Since that is where you mounted the flasher. The more electronic devices you add the more small grounds you need. What kit did you buy from Snyders?
  18. I wonder if another electrical item is stealing the ground. My experience is if something works electrically by itself and then goes into any sort of improper operation with other electrical items operating. One of the other items is stealing the affected items ground.
  19. Are these for Autolite starter #MAX-4016 with solenoid #SS-4104? I have all kinds of boxes of studs without part number or application. Is the thread pitch 3/8"-16 for the studs? What is the outside diameter of the moveable contact? Jeff
  20. Add me to the list of having never seen battery conditioner.
  21. This is a 6v negative ground system with the push button grounding to complete the circuit. The difference between the standard Ford solenoid and the Lincoln is the mounting base. The Lincoln has a 3 9/16" center to center. A standard Ford is about 2 1/4".
  22. I am restoring a Lincoln V12 starter and I am in need of the solenoid. The solenoid is #SS-4004.
  23. Well knowing all that history. That generator was used starting in 1940 and was rated at 35A. The passenger car for 1937 was GBW4803A or C which was 22A. There charge curves are different. With all the added electrical items it makes sense that they went with the later unit. The regulator is Delco Remy most likely from a Chevy with 1118201 part number. Homemade wiring harnesses always gives me cause for concern when trying to troubleshoot in my shop.
  24. Not only do you have the diode setup but that is a Delco Remy Regulator. Somebody has spent quite some time and money previously trying to fix the charging issue. Since you just bought the car I would start with removing the generator and regulator and having both items bench tested as a set.
  25. I know Buckeye auto electric builds them in 6v. I don't know if they have a bracket setup.
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