Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by certjeff1

  1. What is the outside diameter of your field case?
  2. If an ammeter is wired backwards then you will show charge when discharging and discharging when charging. Meaning when you are cranking the engine the ammeter will show a charge. This usually happens when people convert from positive to negative ground or vice versa. Ammeters are like water meters the current flows thru them so when they go bad you get a no charge situation.
  3. I agree start with checking the charging system. If an engine dies while driving and the battery is dead and will not operate the starter. Start by checking the charge rate.
  4. I have the correct 828941 drive you are looking for along with the brushes you asked about the other day.
  5. I have several hundred of those brushes NOS in stock. 440-439-1100
  6. I agree with Joe start by making sure you have 12.6v at the main battery connection at the starter. If not go to your horn relay. GM used the horn relay as battery distribution junction point. What happens to your voltage when you try to crank the engine? Does it crash or does it maintain? Crashing generally indicates at battery issue. Maintaining indicates a cable issue.
  7. To answer your question Yes it is possible to have a stuck start brush and still charge as these units have 2 separate commutators for start and charge. The start commutator has 2 brushes. New the brushes are 7/8" long.
  8. GM part #579500 is what my Motor manual shows as a part. oldsolete.com shows they have one and there is one for sale on ebay.
  9. I dont have a starter or an armature. I do have a couple of contacts that can rewind the armature.
  10. 55 and 63 are the two most popular 6v light bulbs. For best pricing go to rockauto.com. For leds try superbrightleds.com
  11. I agree with checking the dimmer switch first if park and dash lights work. The dimmer switch is usually easier to get to to run any tests. Power goes from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch for both low and high beam. If the wiring diagram I have is right one of the two outer terminals will be your headlight switch power feed.
  12. I dont have one, but there is one for sale on ebay.
  13. Your slow crank when hot is the most common electrical issue on classic and custom vehicles I see 20-25 of these problems every summer come thru my bays and even more people come thru with a starter in hand to be tested on my test bench. I have been rebuilding for 37 years and have specialized in classic and custom electrical for 21 years. My family has been in the automotive electrical industry since the 1940's. Most people blame heat soak of the starter and install all kinds of crazy heat deflecting shields without ever putting a meter to the system. The most infamous vehicle we have had through our shop had 9 starters installed by 3 different shops to cure the original problem. Each shop just kept changing starters, blaming their supplier until the owner got tired of it and moved on to a different shop. Most likely giving the impression that the last starter they installed solved the problem. Therefore they are probably still fixing this problem the same way. There are a 3 causes for your problem. 1. Internally in the starter. I always eliminate this the moment the customer tells me that the starter has already been replaced without fixing the problem. Typically old starters with worn bushings, brushes, spacers or insulators will cause this issue. 2. Battery cables. Most commonly with 6v is undersized cables. Something that gets overlooked with cables are the terminals. When teaching a class I tell people to take a magnet with them when buying cables. To test the clamp and lug to make sure they are not attracted to the magnet. Cheap cables use steel which is the worst conductor. You want lead, copper, aluminum, brass or gold. All of which are nonmagnetic. 3. Undercharging generator or alternator. 99 out of 100 people will never even consider this and it is by far the most common flaw that I see. 6v systems need 7.2v to 7.5v rate of charge for the type of driving most owners of classic vehicles do these days. Most trips are short 30 minutes or less around town and in stop and go traffic at slow speeds. Not 2 or 3 hours at highway speeds. Generator systems have different charging characteristics then alternators so don't be so quick to make adjustments or replace parts without being very thorough in your testing. Just as you check your starting system for voltage drop you should check your charging system for voltage drop. Generator charging voltage tends to fall off at idle. So when checking your system check at idle, at normal driving speeds, lights on and lights off. Check with transmission in and out of gear.
  14. This is not uncommon. Both of those gears are interchangeable because they have the same pitch. There are different length armatures to be used with each gear. Rebuilders used the same part number for every Ford flathead from 1932 to 1953 the most popular aftermarket part number was the Lester number 3103. The starters were sold minus the gear. Because they are external the bendix was considered extra. The gears are held to the armature in different ways making it easy to identify which gear goes to which armature when the gears are removed. The starter at the bottom and pointing with the bendix to the right is the correct setup from the factory. Since both starters have the same slow crank when hot my best suggestion would be to check your generator voltage charge rate. Most 6v vehicles I see in my shop with hot start issues are due to charging voltage below 7v. Some internal starter since you have them out issues can be worn bushings causing too much side to side play with the armature, missing spacers causing too much fore and aft play with the armature, loose brush holders caused by old insulators. As far as resistance measurements there are none. Checking the armature you growl test and you the 110v light bulb test. For field coils there should 2 coils they should insulated from ground, again you would use the 110v light bulb test to insure the field wrapping is good.
  15. The R could have been added to denote that it was a rewound.
  16. Lets start with the easy question premade wiring harness either YNZ yesterday or Rhode Island wiring have factory correct harnesses. 6v to 12v conversions always gets a lot of conversation. WHY DO YOU want to convert? Are there problems that you are having, poor cranking dim lights? These are things that can be corrected without converting. Are you looking to modernize the electrical system? Adding a modern radio, lighting things like that. Converting your car is going to be more expensive and difficult then someone converting a Model A or a Chevy. According to my diagram your wipers are electric, you have separate electric motors for the heater and defroster. You might find your self replacing the factory items with aftermarket items such as Newport wipers or vintage air. Your transmission has some electrical switches and solenoids that finding compatible 12v versions or modern versions might not exist or are hard to come by. There are reducers or resistors available, some work some don't, but if electrical problems are something you do not like to work on you are only adding to the future difficulty of diagnosing them by adding these items.
  17. GAR2214 fits 31-38 Nash & Lafayette. The GDZ2006F fits 40-49 Chrysler, Desoto, Dodge, Hudson, Packard, Plymouth and Studebaker. They are different. Most old manuals do not give dimensions so they could be the same in that regard, but the charging ability is most likely going to be different as the applications for the GDZ call for higher amperage generators.
  18. Not sure why they had such a problem with the armature it was used in many different delco starter numbers. It used the standard straight splined shaft. Just a little longer for the Buick mounting housing. The solenoid because of the relay is usually the hardest part for rebuilders that don't see alot of the older starters. The other thing I see is some manuals list the 6 cylinder starter as a replacement for the 8 cylinder. Problem is the 8 cylinder uses 4 field coils and the 6 uses 2. Making that switch usually causes slow cranking issues. The 1107908 is the correct number for the limited so he was starting with the right part. I have a large inventory of nos parts to rebuild your starter correctly. If we can help you can call 440-439-1100 8-5ET today. I'm Jeff my dad is Earl.
  19. The powermaster powergens are very good. The best part is they used the popular GM CS130 alternator internal parts as the basis for their design. So down the road it is repairable.
  20. Yes. You have a couple of options, there might be more. Powermaster with their powergens or genernator.com. I have not used genernator.com. I have used powermaster. The nice thing about their unit is down road if it goes bad they are repairable as they used the GM CS130 alternator internals. Not sure what genernator does.
  21. First check the 2 small wires on the solenoid. One goes to the push button, this is your power. The other goes to your regulator ARM or GEN terminal this is your ground. If you have power and ground then yes I would remove the starter and check it on a bench and repair as needed.
  22. You are not going to find that part. They all disintegrate. What I do is use 1940's- 1950's Delco-Remy 6v starter field case and commutator plates. I first did this on a 1919 Anderson starter years ago. The later end plates are either cast iron or cast aluminum.
  23. I believe I have several good rebuildable cores. I will look thru and let you know Jeff
  24. certjeff1

    Starter Drive

    That is Delco-Remy #16810. I do not have any of that part number. What I do have is a 16798 which is the same design with a different gear. It might be possible to take 2 to make 1 good gear assembly. But I cant guarantee it. Looking at yours I don't think it is rebuildable. Jeff
  • Create New...