Narve N Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 (edited) My good looking 38 Imperial gearbox with OD that I bought 15 years ago, turned out to having been quarter filled with water and no oil when I recently looked into it. Horror rust scenes was unveiling. Gears otherwise look excellent and probably the fault is all mine as I had it in a chassis standing outside for a year. Anyone ever tried to derust something like this e.g. submerging it in a hot tank, or do you by any chance know a vendor with gears laying around? The great thing about 38 Imperial is the use of a 11" clutch and is also the last year with manual OD, so the intention is to use this transmission in my 8-cylinder Special project based on a 1929 Series 65 parts car. Edited April 24, 2019 by Narve N Spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 I would try molasses and water. It works great and is totally biodegradable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 34 minutes ago, Tinindian said: I would try molasses and water. It works great and is totally biodegradable. You beat me to it. I was going to suggest the same thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narve N Posted April 24, 2019 Author Share Posted April 24, 2019 Good suggestion, I am afraid that some of the hot tank stuff could attack any softer metals inside the gearbox. I likely could fill it up with the molasses mix and stir it around with a stick once a day. How is the procedure to remove the molasses, use pressure washer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 They don't look very rusty to me. That appears to be mostly dirt and watery muck. Clean it out and have another look. If you use molasses, expect to leave it in for at least a month. Cover it too, because all the local bugs would like a drink of molasses but they can't swim once they dive in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted April 24, 2019 Share Posted April 24, 2019 Rust can be removed by electrolysis, all you need is a plastic bucket, battery charger, steel electrodes and washing soda. Details can be found with a web search. Suggest you take the box apart and carefully inspect the bearings and replace if necessary. Clean everything up and reassemble. It could be a wire brush is all you need to take off the rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 Were it mine, I would high pressure wash it, (at the car wash) and submerge it in EVAP-O- RUST. IT WILL NOT HARM SOFT METAL. And it is also biodegradable Worked wonders on my '40 Buick cooling system.. Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted April 25, 2019 Share Posted April 25, 2019 If you do the molasses and water thing. You would need degreasing first. (Pressure wash with detergent) The barrier of any lubricant (or paint) will block the molasses. FLYERs suggestion seems feasible to me as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mereness Posted May 19, 2019 Share Posted May 19, 2019 I am hearing a lot about Evaporust - that is a good looking gear-case inside - just need to de-muck it and get whatever you need handled to get it installed in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted May 20, 2019 Share Posted May 20, 2019 Evaporust works great if you can completely submerge the parts. I would fill it completely. You don't want parts sticking above the level of the evaporust. That seems to cause rust right at the point where air is available. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narve N Posted May 23, 2019 Author Share Posted May 23, 2019 I appreciate all good suggestions. Another source also mentioned that I could be lucky and there might have been just enough oil left on the bearings to save them from the attack of water, so I could just try to clean everything as best as possible and run the transmission as is - to check my luck. Taking it off the car again if it doesn't work is a small job compared to taking it all apart for full derusting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 (edited) Flush it with with kerosene, spin it around for a while with an electric motor with the thing filled with the kerosene, then power wash it out as good as you can. Fill with evapo rust, place it on a hot plate on low for a long time turning it every so often.......let it sit for a week or longer with the evapo rust and the low heat......be sure you can't get any fires going.....keep it safe. After the evapo rust treatment, rinse it a few times with clean water, then back to the kerosene. Be sure to get ALL the water out of it. Then you can eyeball it, as it doesn't look like a lost cause, you can probably fill it with gear oil and run it with a bit of luck. It would be best to take it apart........but the above method is fine to inspect it. It will probably be ok. Edited May 23, 2019 by edinmass (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 Ed, I've never used Evaporust. Will that attack the bearing surfaces, or the brass/bronze bushings and thrust washers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 23, 2019 Share Posted May 23, 2019 58 minutes ago, r1lark said: Ed, I've never used Evaporust. Will that attack the bearing surfaces, or the brass/bronze bushings and thrust washers? No. Read the claims for the stuff. https://evapo-rust.com/evapo-rust-faqs/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 Evapo rust will NOT touch brass, bronze, or any non ferrous metal. Gasket and leather seal as well as felt seal safe. It will remove all the rust, holding it in suspension. Just be sure to let it work, and flush it well. Most of the gears are case hardened. It will be fine, as long as there isn’t too much pitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r1lark Posted May 25, 2019 Share Posted May 25, 2019 1 hour ago, edinmass said: Evapo rust will NOT touch brass, bronze, or any non ferrous metal. Gasket and leather seal as well as felt seal safe. It will remove all the rust, holding it in suspension. Just be sure to let it work, and flush it well. Most of the gears are case hardened. It will be fine, as long as there isn’t too much pitting. Thanks ed, I'll have to get some of that and try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aunty norm Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) I have been watching this topic with interest as I have prolbems with my overdrive Just wondering if anybody knows of any source of parts for these overdrives? I'm getting ready to remove mine from a 1937 sedan , it has bronze particles in the oil and has become noisy. I will most likely need to replace the large bush and a few of the small gears. So I will need to find a replacement or the specs to have a new one turned up. Any information would be helpful! Thanks Edited May 26, 2019 by aunty norm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
42319DB34 Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 Evapo Rust available at Local Tractor Supply , grey plastic gallon container with yellow label , about $20-$22 /gal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 26, 2019 Share Posted May 26, 2019 (edited) On 5/26/2019 at 12:31 PM, aunty norm said: I will most likely need to replace the large bush and a few of the small gears. I had to replace the planetary gears, or at least the bearings and pins. The full complement needle rollers in them had worn barrel shaped and square. Just after I had them rebuilt at great expense, I found a planetary gear set NOS. Humph! Which model do you have? The C15 OD is different to the C14 and C16. restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4849 restorecarsclassifieds.com/wiki/show_pdf.pdf?n=4850 Edited May 28, 2019 by Spinneyhill (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aunty norm Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 (edited) Hi! Spinneyhill Not sure of the exact year and model. But the casing has R6-1, T86 - 1P ,W.G. DIv. 11 13 36, It also had some numbers on top of the gearbox , SL2336 Plus it has a mechanic drop down, not electrical. Hope this makes sense! I'm away at present but will remove the overdrive as soon as I get home! I have a club rally in a couple of months, not much time to repair the box! Edited May 27, 2019 by aunty norm (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted May 27, 2019 Share Posted May 27, 2019 T86-1P was used in the '37 Chrysler C14, Imp; C16, Roy; and the '37 DeSoto. Electrical kick-down came in 1939. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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