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Narve N

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Everything posted by Narve N

  1. Everything is for my 1929 Chrysler Series 65 and it is now back on the car. No extras.
  2. Here is an exploded view of my parts when I took my mechanism apart recently. I discovered to my horror that the windshield frame and mechanism is very exposed to rust and on reassembly I covered as much as possible in "cavity-antirust fluid".
  3. The pictured Series 75 Roadster clearly has a folding windshield. Which is nice in good weather, refer my Series 65 pictured.
  4. Good call. I checked my 1940 Chrysler body tag and can only decode small bits of it (C26N = NewYorker). This is a mysterious topic.
  5. Your least worry should be the cork floats, an excellent example of if it aint broken, etc. Better use your energy to check the sending unit for proper range of ohms between all down and all up postions and hopefully a sliding value in between. At best the sending units should be measured with a working gauge. Experience shows that the gauge is most likely the culprit if circuit is bad. When checking four sending units; I found one with incorrect values, one (expensive) repro with no reading at all, one good after market that had the offset mounting hole at the wrong side - making it hit the tank wall (I will redrill it), and one original that was all OK.
  6. Post a photo of your rim without the hubcap, maybe someone can identify it.
  7. Higher tires makes for a longer legged car. A good idea if you can have a test drive with your current set of tires and decide if you would like to stay on the same diameter or increase/decrease a bit. I just put a pair of 4.50/5.00x18 garage roller tires on my Series 65 racing/special project and was surprised by the noticeable smaller diameter of them compared to the 5.50/6.00x18 normally put on a Series 65. As a general rule, never go smaller (diameter) than original. That car will eventually have 6.50x19 tires being a cool 4 inches higher than the originals, hopefully the horsepower will be able to handle the longer legs too. The 31 DeSoto pictured here is a well known example of putting taller tires on an old Mopar, believe they are 6.50 or 7.00 by 19 inch radials.
  8. I had a similar experience with a oiling-industry specialist tooling company turning my two rear 14" brake drums which are too large for normal shop equipment. While I forgot to ask for a price in beforehand, the operator then logged 2 hours at $250 an hour to perfectly center the two drums plus $100 to do the cut. After intense haggling and whining about what the cost would normally be for this non-professional restoration I ended up paying $500. A regular machine shop just charged me $200 to mill an 8-cylinder head which I consider OK, Norwegian cost level taken into consideration.
  9. My Chrysler Series 65s will lock up all wheels in a straight line on dry asphalt showing the benefits of large hydraulic brakes on a light car, but I the reckon cars with external hydraulics can do that too? The 1928/29 change to internal hydraulic brakes is first-most significant if you end up driving in heavy rain where the cars with internal bands still works like any 50s car. Like pictured here.. All 6-cylinder Mopars will anyhow (when properly sorted) happily cruise at 50 mph plus, to master the non-synchronised transmission is an entertaining skill to learn in my view. Comparing the 1929 with my 1940 Chrysler the 11 years of development was huge in comfort and speed, however the 29 is fun in town and can be thrown around roundabouts like a 50s sportscar - whilst the 40 can NOT.
  10. How can you tell one from another? I have had a BB1D which was marked as such with a copper sign attached to it, but have not seen any of the other markings. Like this one (my overhauled 9 mpg BB-1), is that one of your trusted 6 versions?
  11. Be aware that the recorded mileage so far is 9 mpg, while I am hoping for 15 mpg or better. Time will show how it goes.
  12. May I recommend to recheck the coil readings when hot? My 1940 did run well when cold, until reaching normal running temperature then it started failing. Turned out it was not the fuel supply or choke playing up, it was the coil that started failing when it got hot. Replaced it with an Autolite similar to the one displayed and suddenly the car would pull well uphill when hot.
  13. Chris, you should just try them both out, I believe they have a general good reputation but I am not the carburetor expert here. Otherwise the regular replacement for an U2 is the Carter BB-1 updrafts, which is a late model updraft (introduced 1930/31?) and have several adjustments. Some BB-1s come from GM heavyweight trucks and are regarded as less suitable for passenger cars. I have put an overhauled BB-1 on both my Series 65s. One did run really nice before I sold that car, the other one that I still got wants 25 liters/100km and gives nothing in return.. the car does not want to exceed 80 km/h. I have also discovered that spark plug reach might have an impact on performance as has the coil quality. You will have to fiddle around to find the best combination. I will this season try out a mid-sized Winfield updraft that is in my inventory to seek better performance and economy.
  14. The excellent article linked in this tread takes for a fact that Highlander was a series on its own back in 1940. This is a claim also made by several other sources. However, I can find nothing supporting there was a separate Highlander series in neither sales literature nor in the 1940 Parts List. Both my previous NewYorker Coupe with cloth interior and my NewYorker with Highlander Trim were part of the same VIN run as stated for all NewYorkers. Refer also the dealer issued service policy for the NewYorker with Highlander trim, clearly stating it was a New Yorker when sold new on March 16, 1940. Proud owner was Edwin F Miles who kept the car as his main means of transportation for 25+ years.
  15. Australian bodied cars typically had a divided windshield?
  16. Seems the first item drew a blank and is likely no genuine Chrysler item. How about this one? It is removed from a RHD Series 75 Sedan and I sort of remember it being secured to the center of front axle and steering to (likely) act as a steering damper. None of the other Series 75s I have seen had anything like it, so possibly it is an aftermarket item. Can anyone identify it?
  17. Seats: I shopped some repro Ford stuff and modified it to fit my Series 65 (which is although a more compact car than a CD). The more I learn about upholstery the less worried I am about not having cores.
  18. You're probably right. I always have referred to the style as honeycomb but might well be mistaken.
  19. Honeycomb is the answer. I believe the exact cell size is hard to get, but more than one European vendor had a visually similar pattern where each cell is 2 mm shorter than the original. I have used that pattern for two Series 65 radiators and believe it would pass as original even on Pebble Beach. This is a radiator before with original pattern:
  20. When my buddy bought a 1929 Chrysler Series 75 DCP it came very disassembled and parts were scattered in boxes without much labeling. We have succeeded in identifying most stuff plus a few items that are not Series 75. However this part is puzzling. It looks period, but neither of us can identify its use. Anyone able to chime in?
  21. I have driven 1940 New Yorkers in a "cold climate" (Norway) for 30 years. I know the first car had a frozen heat riser, the current one I have not even looked at to check. Never any problem - as long as it is stuck in the open position.
  22. Leather gaiter dimension refer photo. I reckon the general pattern is identical on all 8 ends, with 16 cm across the spring side of all the gaiters. The other end will vary on the design of the cast-in-two-pieces spring clamp, on a Series 65: 4x 27cm like this one, plus 2x 30 cm and 2x 35 cm. You can control those measures and make your own imperial ones by measuring the circumference of each style of mount and spring.
  23. Have you tried Jay Astheimer for a replacement head?
  24. The style of the shocks just visible on your car indicate that you are looking for wires to replace, is that correct? If it is the woven style of shock snubbers you are after, I believe companies offering these come up on a google search?
  25. YL128C would be a Series 60 produced in April 1926. The engine serial number is further up on the block, top front corner left side. The numbers you have found are a parts number and possibly a casting date (Jan 15, 1926 maybe or July 15)
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