Narve N

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Narve N

  1. My guess: Parts No 74895 in First edition, cast by a company abbreviated to NH
  2. It is (very) likely they interchange. Series 62 head is another tip, the slightly smaller compression chamber on the S62 will give you increased compression and more HP if mounted on a S65/S66.
  3. This is how it is arranged on a Series 65 Roadster. A 1/8" plate fastened with two bolts into the inner fender (cage nuts without reinforcement inside) and one into a fender bolt. Square nut on top holds the step pad.
  4. The casing is usually stamped with the ratio if you look closely. Here is an example of the $22.00 variety.
  5. Series 72 looks similar arranged to a Series 75 with dual lids. You then open the rear part from outside and then the front half from the inside which becomes accessible with the rear opened. Does that make sense?
  6. You can also look behind the generator for casting date, this one is signed by Hercules foundry: If however, your engine is marked with CWC your are into less luck, as this foundry apparently did not datestamp their work: As for Chrysler Historical records: these are sporadic for pre 1930 and early 1929 (my March 1929 Series 65) was not covered. You should anyhow give it a try.
  7. One of my several Series 65 engines had serial number starting with 228809 and dated March 23 of 1929 (zoom in between oil filltube and oil pressure regulator - other locations also seen), so the number 227xxx on its own does not make the car a transition model. Can you locate any casting date on your engine? Very interesting, this is the first 1929 Chrysler (65/775) engine I have seen that do have a fuel pump. Is the manifold modified to take a downdraft or made like that? With a one-piece windshield is the car built outside Detroit?
  8. Series 65 Touring with correct for USA horizontally split windshield (should be chromed, but they rusted badly) and inverted front bumper. Officially 71 made, I have had 1,5 and suspect the numbers are higher as I have collected modern day pictures of at least 10 cars.Here are some, they are all slightly different.
  9. The CG series did not have OD as any OE equipment, but rather a non-synchronized 3-speed with a super-low crawler gear added for a total of 4 manual speeds. In the 80s I read that it was popular to refit the large 31/33 Imperials with a late 30s OD unit to gain synchromesh and better overall ratio for cruising which I guess is done to your car. You should get under the car and find some numbers to determine where your trans origins from. Pulling the cable normally locks out the OD and freewheel. In the 1940 Owners Manual you are recommended to stop the car before locking out Overdrive, eg before a long downhill. The automatic underdrive (kick-down) was introduced for either 1939 or 1940, before that the only OD activation control was by pulling/pushing the handle.
  10. Memory did not serve me entirely right. Here is what is left, 3 rough cast aluminum, 1x stainless, 4x bronze/chromed. Mounting hole spacing is 8-1/2" for all, the various locations for top rest saddles will fit different models. I am asking $25/ea for the alu ones and $60/ea for the others. Shipping from Norway is not as expensive as I feared, less than $40 to US as a letter (which is good as all parcels are held back due to corona). The alu and stainless ones are bought from Marty Lum, the bronze I have had made in the UK. Note that these differ from the CD8 at start of this thread, but I believe them to be correct for Series 62/72/65 Roadsters.
  11. I still have a few more spares. Chromed bronze and stainless, plus one single alu. Will include picture later tonight.
  12. Go for a repair, if it works you will have saved a bundle. My local friendly repair guy did not give any guarantees, but he believed he managed to seal these and four more leaks in the radiator of a 31. I have not dared tried to fit it in yet, partly because of the weight issue when everything is back together. I previously have had two radiators recored (honeycomb) in the UK for roughly $1600 each. Big money, but not $5000...
  13. Gas tank sending unit:The old ones (90 years) might well work as long as they are treated fair, reproductions can be had to an acceptable price (forgot which vendor can check out), it is usually the gas gauge that plays up. I have a NOS gauge in my Series 65 that refuses to work. It is possibly due to the reproduction sending unit having an incorrect ohm range.
  14. I believe in the bluegreen-colour. 56 Ford Meadowgreen for the Series 65 according to Sherwood Kahlenberg back in 1981. This looks almost like the one scientifically formulated for a 32 on another thread on this forum. But, I have also read that varieties of black are correct, and anyhow the heads should be silver or red. I also struggle with some flaking of paint, possibly due to me not removing all traces of grease before painting it in 2016. Looks better now.
  15. It is also a matter of terminology here, but I believe your solenoid switch is the one encircled, and which I call the kickdown-switch. Which it actually is, and it never worked on this car. 1940 Chrysler NewYorker Business Coupe (anyone seen another?).
  16. That's where you insert the fuse, the top brass piece can be taken off to place a glass fuse inside.
  17. Correction to myself, thy are not necessarily missing the fuse. Checked my own stuff today and the fuse is not visible from the outside.
  18. Both your pictured relays look to be overdrive units, missing their fuse. I know cars with B-W OD could be jumped into overdrive and then would stay there as long as ignition was switched on, useful for long highway runs.
  19. This is the Shop Manual statement for a 1940 with OD, use SAE50 if the car has OD as compared to SAE 90 if it is only a 3-speed. I have found GL-1/50 weight oil and used for my car.
  20. My 40 NewYorker came with backup lights that appear to be original although they are not mentioned in the Accessory Catalog I have copy of. The lights looked good being straight below the taillights as long as the bumper horns were incorrectly mounted too far inboard. Last year I moved the horns to the proper locations outside the rear deck and as a consequence, the backup lights now are partly hidden behind the horns and look out of place. Anyone having information as to where to locate the backup lights correctly? It must either be further outboard or possibly more to the inside of the horns. I have looked at pictures of several restored 1940 cars, and some have one large backup light partly behind the left bumper horn although none have the small ones as my car.
  21. Dave, I never tried this but wish I had known about either method a few years back when I had to get a replacement VIN for a Series 65 with unreadable FEDCO plate. Your reverse-reading method would likely be last resort as some authorities (your DMV wherever you are) will frown upon drilled out spotwelds.
  22. I have pictures of more than 12 of these cars, including the one below currently being restored in my neighborhood. The rear windshield is strangely narrow, but correct to the car. This is the most sought after standard bodied Series 75s in an attractive color scheme and possibly worth the money if the missing steering wheel was the only fault. No obvious additional faults seen from the blurry pictures and unlike many other "older restorations" this one is not littered with generic parts replacing original stuff. But would have been so much nicer with a steering wheel and sharp pictures.
  23. Looks to be mostly complete which is good. Is it one of the 71 officially made in Detroit, or is it bodied by an outside supplier (in Australia)? This is how far I came with mine back in 1983, parts are since been dispersed on a number of other cars.