REPORTS ON A 1914 HUMBERETTE RESTORATION

[R.White]

16 minutes ago, Mike Macartney said:

What do you think about putting a post in the 'Discussion forum' about asking for photos of these 'Leather Aprons'? Is that what they are called in America?

 

I believe they are more commonly known as valences.  The metal plates that fit between the engine and the chassis I think are splash guards.  I would think the brass era section would be a start.

[Mike Macartney]

Thanks for that. I'll try and compile a question.

[Mike Macartney]

Oil Pump

I had a go with holding the top part of the pump in the vice using one soft vice clamp and a bit of wood in the other jaw. I then used the rubber glove to try and get the body of the pump to turn - no joy.

Then decided that I would try soaking the joint in thinners to see if that would help.

After 2-hours in the thinners I tried again. With both hands, one in the glove and the other on the brass pipe - still no movement. I will leave it in the thinners overnight and see what happens tomorrow.

 

BACK TO THE WING REPAIRS

 

I tried the strengthening plate that had come off for the fit. It didn't fit quite snugly enough. Probably due to me welding up the split.

A bit of beating it on the sandbag bend it to shape.

Both parts got a coat of etching primer. I have decided not to hold it in place with solder or weld. I will stick into place with the marine grade Sikaflex I used before on trunk area. This can wait until I have finished all the welding brazing and possibly soldering on the rest of the wing.

Attention then turned to the front of the LH rear wing where it bolts to the wooden running board. The plate I had cut was tried in position The original wing in this area is a bit tender and I hope this plate will help to strengthen the area.

I punched holes in the plate with my air flanging/punching tool.

The plate was clamped back into position . . .

. . . . and then MIG welded through the holes to attach the two parts together. You can see from the photograph above that my length calculation was 1/8" too short!

I then welded the bottom edge of the plate to the lip that bolts to the running board.

. . . . and the 'missing' edge.

The weld nuggets were then ground back using a variety of tools as can be seen above and below.

 The repaired area was then blown down with the air line and cleaned with panel wipe before . . .

. . . . a coat of etch primer. When the wing is finally bolted to the running board I will squeeze so black sealant into the joint to try and stop moisture getting into the gap, which is why that area rusted in the first place.

Attention then turned to this area of the wing.

I want to strengthen the join of the 'splash plate' to the wing where the gap is.

A cardboard template was made.

Then realised the solder had come away on one section where the fender mounting bar comes through. I clamped the two parts together and heated it up so the solder would 'run' and reattach.

The plate was made and checked for fit.

Holes punched, the plate blasted and the area marked so that I could clean off all the paint.

One side welded . . . .

. . . . and the other side tapped with a pin punch to get a tight fit.

. . . .  and welded ready to grind off the excess weld.

That will have to do for today.

 

Edited January 18, 2019 by Mike Macartney
extra photo that had appeared I deleted (see edit history)

[wayne sheldon]

I would think posting a request for photos in the general discussion is a good idea.

Linguistics is a fascinating, and sometimes frustrating, subject of study. Bad enough we have two cultures separated by a common language. Add dialects, regional colloquialisms,  common words with different meanings in different work environments, usages that change over time, and a hundred other little things to muddy up the works. On a model T Ford forum I spend way too much time on (what can I say, I enjoy it),  we often get into lengthy debates on the "correct words" for parts of the automobile. One of the worst pieces, on the whole automobile, is that (usually) metal panel that mounts below the body, between the frame and the running board. The two most populated camps are "splash apron" and "side apron", although there are a couple other options including "splash panel" and "side panel". It amazes me how entrenched some people are! One fellow is adamant that "splash apron" is absolutely incorrect, he often offers quotes out of a vintage parts book to support his claim. Others,  are equally convinced that it is the one and only correct usage.

However you phrase it, somebody won't like it. However, don't let that stop you. Just be clear about what it is you would like to see. Many people on this forum are really good about helping find information and good photos.

[Mike Macartney]

Linguistics is a fascinating, and sometimes frustrating.

 

I couldn't agree more! Why are 'rocker panels' (in the USA), called 'sills' in the UK? Any idea?

 

You also mentioned Model T Fords. I bought one at an on-line at an auction of a Danish museum that had closed. I had never bid online before at a live auction. I had been bidding for a veteran (pre 1905) car that had a very low guide price. I missed buying that car, as it went for about 5-times over the estimate. I then saw on the computer screen, a model T come up for auction and put a bid in, as I thought "That's cheap". The bidding must have been in a cue, because I won it at a much higher price than I bid at. I did not realise until the end of the auction when I pressed the button that said 'See Your Invoice' that I had also bought a model A Ford that was very nearly past being able to restore, and a 1926 La Salle! After getting the cars back to the UK, also quite expensive. I managed to sell the model A at a big loss. The model T, I found out later, had been in the museum as a static exhibit and many of the parts had been removed to keep the museums other model T running. Both Jane and I liked the shape of the car and I decided to refurbish it without spending too much money on the car. After a lot of time and effort I got the model T roadworthy and took it for a drive. In my opinion it was the worst car I have ever driven, (and I've driven a lot), driving it back into the garage, it started to go too fast and I automatically pressed the LH pedal and shot forward even faster, smashing into my penny farthing bicycle which was hanging up in front and the continued momentum of the car nearly put the model T through the garage wall! I then decided to sell the car and put it in the next available auction loosing about £4k! Suffice to say, Jane has banned me from buying cars at online live auctions ever again.

 

The only saving grace of this saga is that I got the La Salle registered and sold it on eBay at a profit which made up a little for the losses on the models A & T. Below is a photo of the Model T.

Thanks Wayne for the information, I will try and get a post about the 'aprons', 'splash guards' on later today. 

[Roger Zimmermann]

It seems that your welding skills are improving! My experience was that grinding the welds is taking much more time! than weld!

[Mike Macartney]

If the steel is the same and clean, the welding is OK. The problem I find is when you try and weld a bit of stainless to mild steel. You are correct, grinding off excess welds takes a lot longer than the actual welding process. I have been welding on and off for 55-years, first with gas and later with MIG. By the end of a job my welding gets a lot better. It would be nicer if my welding was as good at the beginning of the job!

 

Yesterday I found your post  I found my luck (maybe)! I love the American truck that collected your new acquisition. As my wife won't let me buy a truck to restore I may attempt to build a model of a truck. Unfortunately, as I do not have the skills or the patience to build it from scratch, it would have to be a model kit. Last time I was in the states I called into a Kenworth dealership and saw my ideal motorhome. It was a Kenworth truck with an airstream caravan body mounted on the back.

[chistech]

I’ve stick mig welded since I was a kid. Learned to tig on stainless back in the mid nineties then never tigged again. When I started restoring my 32’ Olds I realized tig would be better for the long (4’) welds on sheet metal that I needed to do so I priced out the job. I got quoted by three different shops “around $500 to do the total of 8’ of weld. I decided to look at buying my own Tig welder, started reading reviews, and the general consensus among all reviewers is the AHP gives the best bang for the buck. I bought one with warranty for $670 and haven’t looked back. What a great running welder. It took a little while for it to come back but in no time I was welding with absolutely no burn through and virtually very little grinding necessary. I’ve done so many jobs with it now it’s easily paid for itself and I’m on my second small bottle of argon. It does a much cleaner job than the mig and once you get used to feeding or dabbing in rod, you’re welding just about anything you want. One thing is you need a high range lense on your helmet kas the intensity of the arc is very bright. I prefer auto darkening lenses and you have to purchase a high end helmet if you want that. The cheaper auto helmets good for stick or mig will leave you with a case of “sand” eyes pretty quickly.

Edited January 20, 2019 by chistech (see edit history)

[wayne sheldon]

I am a bit saddened to hear about your troubles from live bidding and the model T Ford. I had a center-door sedan about 25 years ago, and really wish I had kept it. That one looks pretty nice in the picture. Model T Fords are different, different than almost any other car one would likely be familiar with. Although other American cars of the era also used planetary type transmissions, few operated quite like the model T Ford. When teaching people to drive them, I always first tell them to forget everything they have learned about driving since the age of six. At six, one knew mommy or daddy sat behind the steering wheel and sort of turned it to guide the car in its direction, and pressed pedals on the floor, but did not really know what they did, and pulled or moved other levers and knobs, but again not knowing really what they did either. From that point. a Ford model T is one of the easiest cars ever built to learn to drive. One should remember, the T Ford was designed to be driven by people that had never driven an automobile before in their life. The next thing, is to find a big empty parking lot to practice in. Until one is used to the T's peculiarities, one needs space to not hit anything! It usually does not take long. The T model becomes second nature, a simple extension of one's self. I love nearly all automobiles from the earliest, to near the end of the 1920s. However, the model T will always have a special place in my life.

 

I very much look forward to seeing your Humberette completed! Humber did build many wonderful automobiles over their years.

[Mike Macartney]

Christech - Re: WELDING - You are correct. I should have invested in a TIG welder when I retired 14+ years ago. Back in 1980/1981, I bought a TIG welder to weld two Range Rover aluminium roofs and the aluminium doors. We had a customer who wanted a 2-door Range rover converted into a 4-door long wheelbase Range Rover. We completed the conversion just before Range rover announced that they were about to launch a 4-door Range Rover! Nowadays, unfortunately with my age and ill  health I am getting near to the point that I may to give up working on the 'old cars and motorcycles'. When I sold my business all my equipment went with the business. I think it is too late now to buy TIG equipment for the little amount of welding I do.

 

Wayne Sheldon - Re: Model T Fords - They definitely are different. I had got used to driving the T in the garden and a few runs around the village green. It was just an immediate panic reaction to put my foot on the 'clutch' and brake when I accelerated to get the rear wheels over the 'hump' to get into the garage. The penny farthing bicycle and the T survived the coming together, so no serious damage was done. I learnt a lot from my 6-months working on the T. For example, I replaced the bands in the gearbox, sortied out the trembler ignition, overhauled the braking system, etc. etc.

 

[Mike Macartney]

THE HAND OPERATED OIL PUMP

Carrying on from my post, about a week ago, where I was trying to get the 'innards' out of the pump housing to see why it wasn't pumping oil. I eventually found out that it was the lower end that unscrewed from the tube. Well it would have done if somebody in the past hadn't soldered it in place!

I poured the thinners I had used to try and clean what I thought was the end that would unscrew into my 'cleaning thinners' tub. Blew out the remining thinners from the pump and played the propane blow torch on the bottom joint until the solder melted.

Shure enough, the bottom unscrewed from the cylinder, and the spring came out.

By unscrewing the 'knob' off the other end of the plunger rod and unscrewing the gland nut from the top end of the pump I was able to push the rod, with its leather washer out of the bottom of the pump tube. In the photo you can see a 'spacer' on the rod at the end the leather washer is. Well, I didn't notice it when I picked the rod up by the leather washer end and it dropped off 'never to be seen again'! I spent a good half hour on my hands and knees looking for it. I heard it drop but I could not find it anywhere. I will just have to make another spacer if it doesn't turn up. All it is for, is to stop the leather washer going to the top of the tube.

This is a view down the barrel of the pump. You can see the hole that the oil goes through to the drip feed mechanism, south east of the centre hole for the plunger rod.

Over the last week I have been thinking on and off how to repair the threaded parts at the bottom and have come to the conclusion that it maybe best to make a new barrel and threaded end cap.

In one of my motorcycle books I managed to find some details on these type pumps.

I spent quite a while trying to work out how the oil got to be above the spring and leather washer. I assume that as you push the plunger knob down against the spring the leather washer deforms to allow the oil to pass through to the chamber above and then when you let go the leather washer seals against the barrel sides and the oil is pushed through to the drip feed mechanism by the spring. On my pump there is no 'Non Return Valve' which is shown on the drawing above.

At the other end of this pick up pipe is a ball bearing which acts as a one way valve. It looks from this photo that the pick up pipe is screwed into the threaded barrel base. On the other side is a 'mass' of solder, which will needs to be melted off, so I can get the two parts apart.

I think the original barrel maybe silver soldered at the top end of the pump to the brass casting. I've now got to pluck up the courage to try and melt the silver solder without damaging the casting. More thought needed! As my Dad used to say "Fools rush in where angels fear to tread".

[alsfarms]

You are doing an impeccable job on your automobile.  The Humberette  will certainly last well into the next generation with the careful restoration you are doing.  Interesting the work you are doing on the lubricating pump and system.  I am currently working over a hand air pump and system that allow me to manually pump and pressurize the fuel tank on my project, for starting, then have provision to use engine compression to maintain pressure in the tank to keep the car running.  Keep up the good work.

Al

[Spinneyhill]

1 hour ago, Mike Macartney said:

"Fools rush in where angels fear to tread"

Your father was very learned! He was quoting Alexander Pope, 1711, in his poem An Essay on Criticism.

 

Interesting pump! The spring provides the oil pressure.

[Mike Macartney]

I don't think he was all that learned, he probably picked up the saying from somebody else. Thanks for the origin of the expression.

[Mike Macartney]

MORE ON THE OIL PUMP

I have just gone and ordered some brass tube to attempt to make another cylinder for the pump. Looking at the pump this morning I have started worrying about how I am going to get the old cylinder away from the brass top of the pump. Am I going to have a problem trying to melt the silver solder? I have silver soldered before but never had to undo a silver soldered joint on brass before. I believe there is not much difference between the melting points of brass and silver solder? Anybody got any tips or advice?

This is the joint I need to get apart.

In the top, I pulled out 3-seals! Would it be better with a leather seal to the push rod?

In the pump outlet to the drip feed unit is this brass disc with 4-holes. It is threaded and I unscrewed it to see if anything was behind it - nothing? I was expecting to see a filter screen. Perhaps it got left out or has 'dissolved' with time?

 

[JV Puleo]

Most likely it had a screen and someone has left it out. You know it has been apart so that's not surprising. The melting temperatures are close but are you sure it is silver solder? There really isn't any good reason why it had to be as great strength or heat are not much of an issue here. The intake manifolds of Silver Ghost RRs were assembled with lead solder* and I can tell from experience that it is much harder to take parts apart than it is to put them together.  When I am working on my intake I can assemble the parts with MAPP gas but I need my acetylene torch to disassemble them. I don't understand that... but so far it has been the case every time.

 

*The late Art Soutter (one time head of service for RR of America) describes assembling those manifolds around a large round gas burner that kept a variety of soldering irons hot. I don't think you can do silver solder with old fashioned soldering irons - but I could be wrong there.

[alsfarms]

On you question about undoing a silver solder joint.  It should not be bad at all.  Silver solder, depending upon the grade, should be less than the melting point of brass.  However, thin was brass requires some care to not blow a hole through while the heat is soaking up the fitting.  I actually REALLY like silver solder.  It is fun to work with and is very strong.  I assume that you have experience with silver solder and I would suggest what has been suggested to me, if you are ill at ease, make a trial run with similar materials and doing the same thing but are not out anything is it turns to a failure.  That is a most interesting pump arrangement.  I am anxious to see it polished up and assembled.

Al

[Mike Macartney]

Thanks, Joe and Al, for your encouragement and advice. I have melted off the 'lumps' of solder from the union of the brass pipe to the threaded part that originally fitted into the end of the pump barrel.

Once heated with the small propane blow torch the solder soon melted and most of it 'dripped off', I don't know why the previous owner had put on so much solder - perhaps he thought that as the pump did not work that there was an air leak at this point? We shall never know. When most of the solder had melted off the union the solder still sealed the pipe to other part, when it cooled down, and I had to heat it up again to unthread the pipe from the union.

I checked the thread pitch on the outer threaded part that is supposed to screw into the barrel. Is it 32 TPI (threads per inch)?

Or is it 30 TPI? It really doesn't matter as I will be cutting new threads.

The thread for the pipe I would guess is a pipe thread.

A 1/2" UNF starts into the threaded part but is not correct. I also tried a 1/4" BSP tap and that was a bit tight, probably because of the solder in the female thread. Checking the thread on the pipe, it appeared to be 19TPI which is correct for 1/4" BSP thread.

In between working on this pump, I have still been 'playing' with the rear wing. It is now nearly ready for filler and primer. I will post more photos when I get a chance. I now wish that I had remade the complete rear lower edge of the rear wing and not tried to save the brass edging that had been soldered on to the steel, 'we live and learn'!

[alsfarms]

Hello Mike,  I can't see real good about the fit between the thread gauge and thread  but I am thinking 32 TPI.  Your expert eye will have to make the call.  Looks like you are making progress on the pump set-up.   I have missed much of your restoration and have not sat down to read through all the postings but I plan to maybe this evening.  My question is this are you choosing to have any of the small items powder coated?

Al

[JV Puleo]

Might the 1/2" hole be a BSF thread? That's a long shot because 1/2 UNF is 1/2-20 and the BSF size is 1/2-16. I don't know of any system that used 19 TPI. 20 seems more likely but the part is old and as much as we'd like to think so, standardization was not as "standard" then as it is now. I've run into several cases where the thread count was standard but the diameter was very slightly different.

 

32 TPI was a BSF size, albeit for very small screws. But (and I doubt most people who have not cut threads think of this) thread count determines the depth of the thread. The depth of 32TPI is identical whether the piece is 1/2" or 4" in diameter. Thus, the very fine sizes are used when threading something like thin-wall tubing. Also, it was probably cut with a lathe that was equipped with the correct gears to cut the BSF thread range...

[JV Puleo]

I am curious here. Does the Humberette not have any internal oiling system and relies entirely on splash? Is this some sort of primer pump to make sure there is oil at the bearings before starting and allowing the splashing oil to keep up the good work when running? If so, I need to find one or copy it. I've been thinking of adding a little hand pump to the Mitchell oiling system that will suck oil from the sump and gill the oil manifold and lines before the engine is started. It may be gilding the lily but I can't see how it would hurt. If this was a fairly common item maybe I can find one and adapt it.

[Mike Macartney]

MORE ON EARLY OIL PUMPS

The thread on the oil pick up pie is definitely 1/4" BSP (British Standard Pipe) the thread pitch for this size is 19 TPI (Threads Per Inch). Below is a photo of the tap and die nut.

With regards to the oil pump on the Humberette the only lubrication in the 'Automatic' lubricator that I have been working on. The V-twin engine is very similar to motorcycle engines of the period with 'waste oil lubrication'. With the 'plunger' pushed in the spring holds the pressure until the oil has drained into the engine via the drip feed.

Below are some photos of the 'hand operated' oil pump on my 1903 Crestmobile with its single cylinder air cooled engine.

The wooden knob to the left is a valve that you open when you want to pump oil into the engine.

The wooden handle on the right of the pump is the 'pump' handle.

The oil is poured into the 'sight glass' via the 'flip up' brass top. I normally pump a couple of 'pumps' of oil every 5 to 7 miles of travelling.

Below is a photo of my 1910 Favourite 500cc single cylinder Australian built motorcycle that has an Abingdon King Dick engine.

This is also a waste oil system that needs one pump every 5 to 7 miles. Joe, if need be, I could try and undo this pump so that I can photograph the insides

I have added the following photograph just for interests sake! It is of the oil pump system on my 1927 Humber 350cc side valve single cylinder motorcycle.

It has a mechanical oil pump on the engine and a drip feed unit. It is rumoured that when they changed from the older hand pump system to engine driven oil pumps that motorcyclists did not believe that the oil was getting to the engine, if they did not see it for themselves, so they fitted this sight glass so the rider could see the drips of oil going into the engine. How true that is, I can't say.

This isthe Pilgrim pump on my 1929 Scott Super Squirrel with a 600cc two-stroke water cooled twin cylinder engine.

 

It also has a mechanical pump with sight glass and two adjusters for the number of oil drips. 

[Luv2Wrench]

Wow, nice collection!  You might share a few more photos

 

[Mike Macartney]

OK, I'll start with this one, a velocipede (boneshaker bicycle), that was taken when we held an open day in aid of the Norfolk Air Ambulance.

This is a replica of a Velocipede (boneshaker bicycle) that I made from scrap metal. I always wanted to own one of these bits of history, but found original ones to be un-ridable due to the age of them, and too expensive , so I decided to make one. I found a postcard of one that had been made by a local  blacksmith (in Fakenham), back in the 1860's/70's and scaled up the photo. A friend of mine made the wooden parts. The spring that the saddle sits on is a Reliant 3-wheeler car rear spring. The return spring for the brake is a 12" steel rule. The brake pad is cut down from a rear BMW 3.0L CSL one. It is frightening to ride as when you push on the pedals it tends to move the steering, in addition to that problem, you cannot touch the ground when you are sitting on the saddle. When riding, if a car is comes the other way, I tend to panic and jump off!

[Mike Macartney]

I will put some photos on at a later date of the other 2, 3 and 4 wheeled vehicles that I have accumulated over the years. Since my last post I have still been working on the left hand rear wing and the oil pump repairs, without a great deal of success! I think that I should of carried on and finished the wing before I started getting involved in the oil pump.

Here is how the wing (sorry fender) is coming along.

After the strengthening plate had been welded and cleaned up I tried it in place.

. . .  and clamped it into position to see how it fitted.

It needed a little bit of shaping in a couple of areas to make it sit flush with the fender.

When I was happy with the fit I coated both parts with etching primer. I am not going to use solder as was originally used, I am going to use the marine grade sealer that I used on the body. This should give the plate a bit of 'give' and should stop the wing wearing away.

I fitted the plate I had made for strengthening the lower portion of the fender where it was 'a bit tender'.

Punched some holes in the plate.

Clamped it in place.

. . .   and welded through the holes.

. . . . ground off the welds on the outside and . .

. . .  ground off the welds on the inside.

. . . .and etch primed to stop it going rusty before it gets primer filler.

I don't like this gap - it annoys me!

I made a pattern for a plate.

Then realised some of the soldered mud shield had broken its joint. I melted the solder and closed the gap up with some mole grips so the parts would re-join.

 

Tried the plate for fit

. . . blasted the plate clean and punched some holes to weld through.

Welded one side . . .

Clamped and tapped the plate to fit snugly and welded through the rest of the holes.

. . . . and started to clean up the welds.

It didn't look as bad in real life as it does in this photo!

The next thing to do to the fender was to decide what to do with the rear end of the fender where the brass edging had been put around the edge to try and replicate the round edge section. I decided to keep the brass edge, but thought the original metal of the wing was a bit fragile in this area.

 

 

 

[Luv2Wrench]

Just had the strangest sense of déjà vu there but then realized I'm not out of order... I think that oil pump has knocked you out of order!   We've seen this fine work before... I remembered it distinctly because of the ingenious solution for where the side detached from the top of the wing.  I have the same problem with the Metz and will happily copy your method.

 

[Mike Macartney]

I am not surprised if I am out of order! I've been feeling a bit out of order myself!

It seems quite a time since I reported on my progress.

When I resize the photos for posting I put them in a separate file on the computer, then, when I have posted the photos, I move them to another file titled 'Used in Reports'. I have now taken over 1000 photos since I started on the Humberette in June, or was it July, last year.

Below are some more photos of work on the rear fender which seems to have taken ages.

Using my thumb nail to make the shape for the cardboard pattern

Now to cut it out.

It looks as if it fits.

Transferring the pattern to the sheet metal.

Marking the metal so I know which way it is supposed to fit.

It is easy to be wise after the event. That brass bead that I left on the rear of the fender caused me no end of problems. I would have been much better off replacing the whole of the bottom section of wing.

The reason for this plate was the metal was a bit 'tender' in places and the area needed some 'strength' put into it. Holes punched and ready to fix.

Rather than just clamping the plate in place to weld it I thought I would use these pin clamps (I have forgotten what the proper name is).

You drill a 3mm (1/8") hole through both bits of metal and use these special pliers to pull the spring back and push the pin through the hole. When you release the pliers the two bits of metal are held firmly together.

I decided to fit the clamps the other way around to give me more room for my welding torch.

Here you can see the other side of the 'pin clamps'.

Welded up and ready to grind off the welds. The idea then was to silver solder the brass beading to the steel. That's when the problems started!

I took the wing down to my other workshop where I have my oxy/acetylene and attempted to silver solder. The problem was the dirt under the brass. The silver solder just would not flow into the joint.

By this time I was getting rather 'fed up' and left this mess until the next morning to clear up! Flat surfaces seem to accumulate 'stuff'!

The next day I thought "If I am careful I maybe able to braze the brass beading to the steel wing". WRONG! All I did was managed to melt a small section of the brass bead. The brass bead is actually hollow brass tube.

Panic then set in and out came the glass fibre paste!

Firstly, I welded a plate to back the GRP paste to try and strengthen the joint. I then applied the mix of glass strand and resin.

While I waited for the paste to 'go off'. I had a look at the other wing to see what that one was like.

This one was even worse. I will defiantly replace the brass bead with steel on this fender.

After the GRP had hardened I found that the joint between the section of brass and the steel on the other side was also weak and welded another strengthening plate.

That at least made the bottom of the fender a lot stiffer.

I gave the repairs a coat of etch primer. I learnt from my mistake and decided I would try and do a 'proper job' on the other rear fender. At least it is a bit better than it was before I started!

To leave on a happier note; here is Jane, with Mark, at the Jaymic Workshop, choosing the blue for the body, from the spray cards that Mark had sprayed out for us.

 

Edited February 5, 2019 by Mike Macartney
deleted incorrect photo (see edit history)

[alsfarms]

Hello Mike,  What type of water sealant are you putting around the edges of your strengthening plates to keep mater from getting in behind and doing damage again?

Al

[Mike Macartney]

Hello Al, I have just realised that I have not replied to your last PM to me. I will try and do that in the next couple of days.

 

With regards to your question regarding sealer. I shall probably seal the joins first with marine grade Sikaflex like I used in the trunk area. The underside of the wings (fenders) I will get the Jaymic Workshop to use the 3M 2-pack anti-stone chip material that they used on the underside of my MGBV8. (photo attached of the underside of the front inner wing panel). They recommended the 3M's, apparently it comes sealed in 'plastic bags'. They have used this 3M's material on stage rally car bodyshells, that they have painted, with good results. It takes 2-pack top coat well. It is sprayed on and when tacky the top coats of paint are applied. I think the finish depends on how it is sprayed on. I am amazed how bodywork materials have improved since my retirement in 2004.

 

 

 

Edited February 6, 2019 by Mike Macartney
a couple of words left out (see edit history)

[Mike Macartney]

I collected the painted body and wheels from the Jaymic bodyshop this week.

Considering how bad the wheels were they haven't come out too bad.

The body looks OK too.

The next job is to get the wheels fitted to the car so I can move the chassis. I also need to sort out the exhaust before the body goes on as it will be easier to fit without the body in place.

I'm ready for doing the steam bending of the top hoops. Unfortunately my pal, Robert, has been suffering from a cold and chest infection for about the last 4-weeks. I still have a bit of time left before the car is due at the coach trimmers on the 25th April for the leather upholstery and top (we call it a hood). I am planning to strip and check the engine and gearbox while the coachtrimmer has the car. I will sort the exhaust out while the engine is still in the car.

 

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Mike, love to see the progress you have made. Looks great. I can't wait till I can get back to mine. I'm just wondering why blue?

[John_Mereness]

Nice color choice !

[Mike Macartney]

I'm just wondering why blue?

 

"A good question" said the politician while he thought of a answer!

 

Well the car was originally blue, from the photo that I got with the car, when it emerged from long time storage. It was taken off the road in 1924.

 

I have never been a fan of blue, I've always been a sort green or brown sort of guy? Thinking back at the blue cars that I have had in my past life. I think it maybe something to do with Jane, my wife! We were in the same class at school and started going out together when we were 16.

 

When we were at college around the mid 1960's, six of us, including Jane, bought a 1936 MG TA to rebuild.

Above is the MG we bought around 1964/1965 for about £25.

We spent about a year on the car.

I think Jane must have chosen the colour. It's Jane and I in the MG looking a lot younger than we do now!

The original idea was for the six of us to make some spare money. We sold the car for £165, which at the time was the top price for a TA. A while ago Jane came across the note book that all our hours of work and the material were listed in. We earnt the princely sum of 6d each an hour (2.5p in new money). The total cost of all the paint and materials amazed me, it was £5!

The car I owned at the time was my second car which was a 1936 Morgan 4/4. I will try and find a photo of that. When I bought it as a non runner it was cream. I think Jane must have had some influence here, as that too was sprayed blue!

A couple of years later we both wanted to start racing and built a Hillman Imp, fitted a 998cc Imp engine plus a supercharger and entered the Players No.6 Autocross Series. I must have a photo of that car somewhere.. Funnily enough, the Hillman Imp was blue too! 

More recently, since I retired, I have restored a 1974 MGBGTV8 in teal blue and a 1978 MGBV8 roadster in teal blue - I think Jane must have 'brain washed' me over the years!

[Mike "Hubbie" Stearns]

Mike, I do like the color and look forward to seeing it all assembled. I'm like you also, blue isn't my favorite color as I like the reds. I've had several trucks of various colors and the current one is my favorite and I'd victory red

[Mike Macartney]

Fitting the tyres to the rims - SIMPLE !?!

First job was to remove the hooks I had fitted to support the rims while they were being sprayed.

Next job was removing the nuts, bolts and wooden washers I had made to protect the bearing surfaces from damage during the blasting and painting process. The paint had made a good seal and I had to cut the paint to release the bits of wood.

There were 3-holes in each rim that, I think, where originally there to clamp the beaded edge tyre (clincher tires) onto the rim to help stop the tyre turning on the rim. I filled these holes with countersunk bolts and fixed them in place with a stainless washer, nut and heavy duty thread sealant. I shall use these bolts to put extra nuts on to balance the wheels if needed after I have fitted them to the chassis.

Now to fit the new tyres!

I cut the U-shaped section out of each side where the tyre valve goes through the rim. The wet looking stuff is tyre fitting soap.

So far so good, apart from not cutting away the 'flappy bit' in the correct place the first time!

Over the years I have fitted a number of beaded edge tyres to rims and have never had a problem. Most times I have even managed to fit them without the need for tyre levers.

After getting completely exhausted trying to get just one side on, even with taped up ends to the tyre lever, I made a mess of the paint on the edge of the rim. Oh bother, or similar, not so polite expletives.

Jane suggested I had a look on the internet. "Don't need to" I said, "I've fitted these type of tyres in the past with no problems". In the end she persuaded me, and I found this You Tube video - the guy fits the tyre on the rim with no tyre levers using a plastic garbage bag!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P6sH8WRl6yI

After watching the video I decided that I was too old and knackered to even attempt it, as the guy in the video looked as if it still needed quite a lot of effort.

I rang the Jaymic Workshop and James said "Bring them up and we will have a go at fitting them, we like a challenge!".

The next day they rang me to say the wheels were ready to collect. They told me they had a struggle with the tyres and it needed two of them to push the tyres on the rims.

.

With wheels and tyres back home I started by digging out the bags of bits for fitting the wheels.

I cleaned all the greasy ball bearings and other bits with cellulose thinners . . . .

As well as the stub axle and threads.

It seems I have run out of my allowed 9.77Mb so I will have to end now and keep you in suspense until my next post! 

 

 

[wayne sheldon]

Looking very nice!

[Mike Macartney]

Thank you Wayne. These type of comments help a lot, to get me over 'low' periods, when things don't quite go right.

[Mike Macartney]

Continuing on with the wheel fitting . . . .

The groove on the outside of the front wheel rear bearing housing was carefully cleaned out with thinners so as not to get the strong thinners on the new paint. The old oil seal on the stub axle looked pretty good. I should think it got replaced when the chassis had previously been restored.

I cleaned out the threads on the hub cap and checked that it fitted before trying to fit the wheel to the stub axle.

Some new grease was 'wiped' into the bearing housing on the back side of the wheel and the clean ball bearings pushed into the grease to hold them in position while I threaded the wheel onto the stub axle.

I really needed three hands for this job to hold the wheel in roughly the correct place to enable me to fit the outer ball bearings. In the end, I managed to 'wedge' the wheel in the right place with a bit of wood.

This was a bit tricky getting the balls to sit in the right place in the outer bearing housing.

Ball bearing retainer screwed on and was tightened until the wheel was 'a bit tight' on the bearing and then backed off until the wheel spun nice and freely, with virtually no slack in the bearings.

I then fitted the washer and castle nut and put in a new split pin to lock the nut in position. I have not tightened the hub cap as it needs to come off again to try and polish it up.

One wheel fitted - another 3 to fit.

The rear wheels were easier to fit as they just have a cotter pin to hold then solid to the half shaft.

With all the wheels fitted at least I could get the chassis off the axle stands and move the car.

While fitting the wheel to the right had side I did find that the king pin had some slack in it. I made a note of this, and will visit it later, after all the chassis grease points have been greased.

[Roger Zimmermann]

It seems that the balls are loose and not in a cage. Not an easy job and very similar to a bicycle!

I saw on the previous page your question about separating silver soldered parts. It can be very tricky: I did an error on the front bumper from a previous scale model. To correct the errors, I wanted to remove elements which were silver soldered. I just managed to distord the bumper; finally, I did another one.

The temperature to assemble two parts is lower (probably the flux is responsible) than to separate them. Without knowing what kind of soldering was used in the first place, you may end in a disaster.

 

[Mike Macartney]

Roger, Yes the balls are loose and not in a cage. Most of the pre war motorcycles I have worked on since I have been retired have the same type of 'loose balls'. I don't know when 'ball races' started to be used.

 

Silver Solder problem. Yes, I am worried that trying to replace the complete tube of the oil pump may end in a disaster! To that end, I am trying to make a piece to  solder into the end of the tube where the 'bad thread' is. The photo below shows my first attempt.

 

For some reason the site won't let me load the photo?!?

 

Instead I will try to explain - I am having difficulty holding the small length of brass tube in the lathe chuck to machine the internal thread and also machine some of the outside of the tube to fit inside the existing oil pump barrel. I have ordered an expanding mandrel from the USA, to make the machining easier, when it arrives I will have another go at making this piece. The mandrel is the same as the ones that Joe uses in his reports on the 1911 Mitchell (I think I may have spelt that incorrectly!). I tried to order a set of these mandrels, unfortunately the weight was too heavy to post, so in the end I just ordered the one size I needed.