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1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK


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Wagner products was and may still be a leading brake manufacture. All master cylinders that were made in this country had a casting number on the body. Like I stated, this number was not the part number. The F544 should cross to most manufactures of better quality parts.It is almost identical to your old unit and has the same bore size and outlet size, you can reuse the old top cover for more authenticity if you wanted. I would check with NAPA to see what's available or try to track down a company who still sells Wagner products, maybe a good HD brake company. What you are buying for the $310, if you are buying from one of the Mopar parts houses is probably old stock parts or contract parts so you'll pay top dollar for them. Top dollar doesn't guarantee quality. If you're worried about quality, and want to reuse the old cylinder, send it out to be rebuilt, you'll probably pay about the same amount. Made in America doesn't mean today what it used to as so many parts are built here from foreign made parts. Many of these parts are still available aftermarket from NAPA if you know want to look for or how to track this stuff down. Sometimes, many times, the parts that these specialty houses sell are not correct but because of the lack of any better substitutes they will try to sell a "fits all" part that may  be very disappointing. The advise given from many of the senior members on this forum usually will be the best advise you can get, as experience is the best teacher.

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4 minutes ago, jpage said:

Wagner products was and may still be a leading brake manufacture. All master cylinders that were made in this country had a casting number on the body. Like I stated, this number was not the part number. The F544 should cross to most manufactures of better quality parts.It is almost identical to your old unit and has the same bore size and outlet size, you can reuse the old top cover for more authenticity if you wanted. I would check with NAPA to see what's available or try to track down a company who still sells Wagner products, maybe a good HD brake company. What you are buying for the $310, if you are buying from one of the Mopar parts houses is probably old stock parts or contract parts so you'll pay top dollar for them. Top dollar doesn't guarantee quality. If you're worried about quality, and want to reuse the old cylinder, send it out to be rebuilt, you'll probably pay about the same amount. Made in America doesn't mean today what it used to as so many parts are built here from foreign made parts. Many of these parts are still available aftermarket from NAPA if you know want to look for or how to track this stuff down. Sometimes, many times, the parts that these specialty houses sell are not correct but because of the lack of any better substitutes they will try to sell a "fits all" part that may  be very disappointing. The advise given from many of the senior members on this forum usually will be the best advise you can get, as experience is the best teacher.

I am finding everybody on this form very helpful with information today after having this conversation on both I dodge Facebook forum and this forum here I found a friend who knows someone to have my original one rebuilt so I will be sending it out and it will only cost me $210 which include shipping and the core I will update with that situation as soon as I get the master cylinder back my next Hunt is for the hub for which seems to be a unique tool that's not normal at a auto store

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Not meant as a criticism, but that lower radiator hose may give you trouble.  Originally there were two short hoses with a metal u shaped pipe in the middle.  Your hose may be molded (can't  tell from the photo) but if it's not, you are putting a lot of stress on the lower radiator inlet.

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1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

Not meant as a criticism, but that lower radiator hose may give you trouble.  Originally there were two short hoses with a metal u shaped pipe in the middle.  Your hose may be molded (can't  tell from the photo) but if it's not, you are putting a lot of stress on the lower radiator inlet.

Its a new hose. (MOLDED)

 

I NEED HELP! FUEL PUMP HAS NUMBER 9926 on it and made in USA IM4. Anyone know what rebuild kit to use

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That pump doesn't look like the correct pump for your car but I could be wrong. I would check that before I did any rebuilding. Again, a new fuel pump that is very similar to the correct one may still be available from a good auto parts store or you could check one of the Mopar dealers but their products may be much more expensive. I wanted to use the original pump on my '36 so I purchased a new pump and traded the diaphrams. Probably not a viable course of action today. If I were you, I would spend some time and money and purchase any mechanical info books I could find like Motor's manuals or the  Master maintenance manual for your car as a guide to proper repair and maintenance. No use trying to muck around rebuilding parts that you are not familiar with. There are some companies that will rebuild pumps and I believe that you can purchase some kits. You might try Auto parts obsolete, Terrill Machine co. or google '33 dodge fuel pumps and see what comes up. Good hunting. 

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15 hours ago, jpage said:

. . . The F544 should cross to most manufactures of better quality parts.It is almost identical to your old unit and has the same bore size and outlet size, you can reuse the old top cover for more authenticity if you wanted. . .

 

I strongly suspect that the current master cylinder is not the original one. The original for a 33 Plymouth (and I think the Dodge used the same part number) looks different. The one pictured looks like the later replacement type.

 

3 hours ago, jpage said:

That pump doesn't look like the correct pump for your car but I could be wrong. . . google '33 dodge fuel pumps and see what comes up. Good hunting. 

Already established that the engine in his car is from a '53 Dodge and the pump on the engine could well be correct for that particular engine. I am not as familiar with the accessories (fuel pump, carburetor, distributor etc.) that were originally fitted to a '53 so I can't say for sure if the fuel pump is correct or not.

 

That said, a phone call the Then-And-Now Automotive (a.k.a. Antique Auto Parts Cellar) with the numbers on the fuel pump should get him a rebuilding kit made of materials that will stand up to modern gas.

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While you’re working on the brakes, carefully inspect the brake lines for trouble. My 36 had rust on both the fuel line and brake line where they pass under the radiator in front of the car. The fuel line split right there and I found the leak after I parked pointing downhill with the motor running. Otherwise, it wasn’t dripping. Glad It didn’t happen to be a brake leak, needless to say.

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I went to www.oldmoparts.com and they have the Master Cylinder for the brakes and the new fuel pump. I have them on order and will update when they get delivered. they said the fuel pump has the glass filter attached and that it will not be an issue having two glass fuel filters "one attached to fuel pump" and "one inline connected to carburetor" I may remove the inline and re-do the fuel line to the carb. 

 

I will be posting more pictures soon. I will be getting the Hub puller in the mail next week and will check the brake pads to see how good/bad they are. don't know if I will leave them if they have meat on them or replace just to have new material. will be replacing brake lines also, but am thinking I may have steel braided lines built by Parker just to have a bit of extra braking power. 

 

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I don't see how braided lines would give any more pressure to your brakes. They would last longer but are not correct for that car. If it were I and since that car is so nice, I would look for a '33 engine and parts to make it correct. My friend and I have located 3 '33 engines in the past week.

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19 minutes ago, jpage said:

I don't see how braided lines would give any more pressure to your brakes. They would last longer but are not correct for that car. If it were I and since that car is so nice, I would look for a '33 engine and parts to make it correct. My friend and I have located 3 '33 engines in the past week.

After looking into it I'm going to stick with the stock brake lines 60 bucks for factory lines and it keeps it more original ask for the engine for now I'll probably leave it unless I find a matching block then I might just have to pick that up and keep it for future but I still have plans to put a modern running gear underneath this vehicle for reliability and long drives in the future but that's all way down the road

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37 minutes ago, jpage said:

I don't see how braided lines would give any more pressure to your brakes. They would last longer but are not correct for that car. If it were I and since that car is so nice, I would look for a '33 engine and parts to make it correct. My friend and I have located 3 '33 engines in the past week.

I have one down cellar, 33 engine, not the correct engine? That’s a problem , hope the seller told you not original engine? I have 34, numbers matching, original I have started, will get more into it this year after building garage,  I’m thinking mine is worth at least 15, as it sits, but not for sale, 

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2 minutes ago, knobless said:

I have one down cellar, 33 engine, not the correct engine? That’s a problem , hope the seller told you not original engine? I have 34, numbers matching, original I have started, will get more into it this year after building garage,  I’m thinking mine is worth at least 15, as it sits, but not for sale, 

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That's really awesome I have yet to find the numbers on the side of my frame mainly because I still have to clean underneath butt once I find the numbers I may start that search not too sure if I'll end up with the original motor though and no the original owner did not tell me that he replace the engine

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4 hours ago, Sactownog said:

. . . but I still have plans to put a modern running gear underneath this vehicle for reliability and long drives in the future but that's all way down the road

 

More reliable than a drive train that was built from 1933 into the 1970s (1958 or 59 for use in cars, later for use in military vehicles and industrial applications)?

 

In proper repair, that Mopar L-6 engine is as reliable as anything being built today. No where near as much power nor as efficient as today's engines, but definitely a very reliable engine.

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Don’t forget to send for your build Card when you find the numbers, not sure of the address I know I have it somewhere, I’m sure others have it to on here, think it was like $45 to get it, good luck, have fun I know I do working on these old 33 /34 cars, when you get to it I sell replacement spring keepers” for the door handles as well as bolt springs for the headlight bolts,,,also sell replacement ball and spring kits for the cowl vent,,,,,,

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22 hours ago, ply33 said:

 

More reliable than a drive train that was built from 1933 into the 1970s (1958 or 59 for use in cars, later for use in military vehicles and industrial applications)?

 

In proper repair, that Mopar L-6 engine is as reliable as anything being built today. No where near as much power nor as efficient as today's engines, but definitely a very reliable engine.

Chrysler had some of the best prewar engineering out there. It’s a fact that in 1936 the cars of Chrysler Corp. outsold Ford Motor Co! Get that car going and enjoy it in stock trim first. A 33 Dodge is a rare bird.

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I agree, that car is too nice to do any "upgrading" to. I also agree, that if you do any rebuilds and repairs correctly, that car should run as well as it did when new, just don't expect to run 65 down the interstate. If you really want to go fast, buy a later model car! We need to save these historical vehicles as they are getting harder to find in original condition!

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So here is my update. "Maybe I should start a resto thread for this car", anyhow I have ordered a replacement Master Cylinder, new Brake Lines, New Fuel pump, and removed Carburetor to rebuild it. I am cleaning the undercarriage quite a bit but will save most of it for when the new white wall tires get ordered so I can roll car out of garage and pressure wash underneath. I have been shining up the body and chrome. See pictures attached and follow progress on Instagram @Sactownog or #DaloianDesigns 

Cars name is #Harlean

 

This car has sat for 26 years and really shows. But the paint is coming back, the chrome is pitted in areas but shining. So well see what can come back to life. Just have lots of elbow grease to put in. 

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Well, Thought I would update this forum on the progress for anyone who wants to follow. 

I have ordered the new fuel pump, new master cylinder, and new brake lines. Also a carb rebuild kit for the single barrel. 

The dip stick tube that holds the dip stick in my engine broke off. Going to hope to god I can get that out and replaced. 

I am fully detailing the car claybar and buffed, chrome polishing, and I got to say this car came back to life quick. 

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It's amazing what a little elbow grease will  do! Looking very nice.  A great candidate for HPOF judging class. You will really have a lot of fun with this car and expect to spend all day answering questions whenever you take her out. Good luck!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

I found this vehicle in December 2017 and got it home on christmas eve. 

I have done a ton of work getting this car back to perfect. 

it was put back on the road in April of 2018 for the 1st show (Good Guys Rod and Custom show @ Del Mar) and parked again in the beginning of 2019 due to some slipping in drive train that was thought to be the transmission but was the rear end slip yoke with a worn tooth. 

 

at this point I have taken out the original 3 speed transmission and purchased a George Asche made 3 speed transmission with an overdrive unit and just had the rear end rebuilt by Oceanside Drive line which cost me $1000.

 

next step is to remove the engine, It leaks and if the transmission and rear end are both fresh, it makes sense to rebuild the engine. 

 

plans there consist of .60 bore, mill head, grind both crank and cam, add dual carb intake and headers. 

 

with that all done, this car should be good to go and I can find my next project, a hot rod since this 33 should not be heavily modified. 

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8 hours ago, Taylormade said:

My flat floorboards are all wood, but I have a two piece toe-board that is made of metal.  I guess they went to all metal floors a year later with the 33s.

 

My '33 Plymouth has a metal toe board but the floorboards immediately ahead of and under the front seat are wood.

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22 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Lots of changes between 31 and 34.  For instance, my 32 still has Babbitt bearings but I believe Chrysler products of the same year use insert bearings.

 

Plymouth and, I think, Dodge started using modern thin shell insert bearings in 1933. There are almost no mechanical parts in common between a 1932 and a 1933 Plymouth. I don't have a count but my impression is there are more mechanical parts in common, or at least interchangeable, between a 1933 Plymouth and a 1958 Plymouth than between a 1932 and 1933 Plymouth.

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update: 7-8-19

got rear axle backing plates stripped, primed, and painted with 500 degree paint. 

had to cut my own gasket's for the axle end's. 

 

still need to put brakes back on and get it all mounted to axle. 

 

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17 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Xclnt progress. Do shims go behind the brake back plate?

funny you asked me this, same thing was brought up to me by someone else in another forum on FB. 

 

There were no shim's behind the backing plates on my axle, I brought this up to Oceanside Drive line who rebuilt the rear end (and will be building the drive line), and they said, its all good and to run it. so I have been restoring all the parts on the car, painting them black, and will have the rear end back in the car this week. 

 

Then I will be removing the engine for rebuild. 

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