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1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK


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got the floor board stripped and painted. check this out. sexy now. just need to decide if I am going to put the board on the bottom for heat or if I am going to line it with something different. either way, until then, here is a picture of the floor board.

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2 hours ago, Sactownog said:

they have covers over them on each side,

My 1939 Studebaker had them on the front spring. Are those made of tin plated steel? Mine were. Mine had a canvas wrapping on the spring first and they are supposed to be greased using a Lubriclamp to put grease inside the canvas near the ends.

 

No shims means they made it spot on without them. Xclnt.

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24 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

My 1939 Studebaker had them on the front spring. Are those made of tin plated steel? Mine were. Mine had a canvas wrapping on the spring first and they are supposed to be greased using a Lubriclamp to put grease inside the canvas near the ends.

 

No shims means they made it spot on without them. Xclnt.

regarding shims: that is literally the best way to describe it. I was worried about it, but when the shop said "Run It" I felt better about it. its a pretty light axle built very well. I can lift the whole axle my self in and out of the truck so it makes moving it easy. 

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33 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

I remember when it was like that. Something has changed.... Mine seem to have got heavier over time.

yep, currently 37 years old and kind of BUFF. HAHa 

 

I was pleasantly surprised I could lift it on my own. the engine, not so much tho. 

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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:

At 17, I could lift a Fiat 600 engine! Does that count?

yes sir it does. I miss the younger me. I do automotive detailing and I can feel it now after a long day of detailing. father time is undefeated. 

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ok fellas, so last night I made some good progress on the rear end. got it back underneath the car and mounted to the leaf springs. looks great, all hardware has been painted black and mounted very nice. 

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I used some from a sway bar link kit. See: https://www.ply33.com/Parts/group17#17-27-13

 

The rods were rusted and worn through on mine so I just got some steel rod stock, cut it to size and then threaded the ends. Instead of the forged shoulder to hold the inner retainers I just used nuts. Most people, including show judges, have never noticed that the setup is not an exact match to the original.

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update: got the backing plate gaskets made, got the backing plates and the brakes all put together and mounted to the axle. 

had to find shock bushings for the shock/rod part. found a kit for a 2007 jeep cheroke with the bushings that I thought would work, however they were to thick. 

 

I cut about 1/4" off of them and they now fit perfect. I have stripped the rod from the axle mounting plate to the shock and all the hardware has been painted black. 

 

just got the wheels back on and the vehicle is back on the ground again, 1st time since I took out rear end a month or so ago. 

 

see updated pic's with more to come later. 

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4 hours ago, JACK M said:

I am glad to see you making progress.

I would bet that you are anxious to get to cruising again.

man, you have no idea, I am missing so many shows, missing cruising the 101 on the ocean, but when its done, my goal is to drive from my house to Temecula, CA to the winery's at a good speed on the freeway and enjoy the car. 

 

lucky me, San Diego is 99% sunny days and car being down during show season does not really affect me. but I am missing it. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

update: I have torn down most of the engine parts (generator, oil filter, all wires & mechanical items on engine, carb, etc) and will be removing hood, radiator and grill shell, from the vehicle tomorrow and removing the engine. 

 

I have confirmed I can rebuild the 230 flat head 6 in my upcoming engine building class at the local college where I live.

 

I will be decking the head, possibly adding a new cam, not sure if I am going to go with a bigger piston, and painting engine. 

 

stay tuned. 

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I guess I didn't look closely enough at the first photos in this thread earlier. You've got an engine out of a 1953 Dodge that displaced 230 cu. in. from the factory. That is quite a step up from the original engine so I don't know how much you'd need to go with larger pistons to have a good performer.

 

I'd be interested in how they worked the starter motor/bell housing/engine clearance when they put that engine into your car.

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The only real issue I had with the back of the engine so far is when I took out the starter and had it rebuilt. the starter is VERY TIGHT. and was a b*tch to get in again. but it fit. 

 

I plan to take out engine with bell housing/clutch/starter all together. when I put it back in, I plan to have the transmission on already to make it a smooth install. 

 

the larger pistons would be kind of a "while I am there" thought. but I am not sure yet, I will know more when I tear engine down. 

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This weekend was fun, had some buddies over and we got the engine out of the Harlean. 

 

took a good 4 hours, the lower cross member that sits between the engine oil pan and clutch/flywheel is what makes it a pain in the butt, that will get fixed, I plan to grind off the side rivets and make them into bolts for easy removal and reinstall when we put engine back in.

 

I found the engine had blown a freeze plug from rust, and oil dripped out of a few areas. but now the engine is on a stand and I have confirmed with my instructor at the engine building class I will be taking at the local college that I can rebuild the engine in class (3 month class). 

 

so all in all it was a good productive weekend for Harlean.  stay tuned. 

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7 minutes ago, JACK M said:

Sounds like you will have an almost new car after all of this.

Fun Stuff !!

really close to new. all interior is good, the exterior paint/body are great. once the drive train and suspension are done, this car will be good to drive anywhere I think. 

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That engine class sounds like a good idea for someone that wants to do his own work but is unfamiliar.

You will be an engine guy after all that.

Believe me, you will have a lot of friends wanting you to do theirs.

Been there, Done that....:lol:

 

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1 hour ago, JACK M said:

That engine class sounds like a good idea for someone that wants to do his own work but is unfamiliar.

You will be an engine guy after all that.

Believe me, you will have a lot of friends wanting you to do theirs.

Been there, Done that....:lol:

 

I would be ok with doing 1 or 2 engines a year for people. my hope is to build my next engine, a Mopar 360 or larger for a rat rod project. 

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For me, assembling an engine is the easy part.

Getting all of the proper machining and parts can be time consuming, thus frustrating.

That 360 will be pretty straight forward as you can buy a kit thru Summit or Jegs.

Just pick the pistons, bearings, and cam etc. and the brown truck brings it. Do this after measuring and before any machining.

FYI, the 340 makes better performance than a 360 unless you get the higher compression pistons. 360s were truck engines.

 

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2 hours ago, JACK M said:

For me, assembling an engine is the easy part.

Getting all of the proper machining and parts can be time consuming, thus frustrating.

That 360 will be pretty straight forward as you can buy a kit thru Summit or Jegs.

Just pick the pistons, bearings, and cam etc. and the brown truck brings it. Do this after measuring and before any machining.

FYI, the 340 makes better performance than a 360 unless you get the higher compression pistons. 360s were truck engines.

 

the large 360 engines I get cheap from my family wrecking yard, I will do a lot more to that later. 

 

I recently spoke to George Asche regarding the 230 flat head 6 and was talking about adding a Cam and larger pistons. he stated that I would need to add headers and dual intake 

 

knowing that, I may just keep the 230 completley stock, maybe regrind the cam back to spec and seal the engine up for a quicker easier rebuild. 

 

my initial thought was bore 230 with .60 pistons, cam, and go all out, but after hearing George say it would have to go with the dual carb/header setup. knowing I want to keep the stock look of the engine, doing all that seems like both a waste of money and time vs HP Gain's of about 100hp. 

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On ‎8‎/‎13‎/‎2019 at 2:50 PM, Sactownog said:

the large 360 engines I get cheap from my family wrecking yard, I will do a lot more to that later. 

 

I recently spoke to George Asche regarding the 230 flat head 6 and was talking about adding a Cam and larger pistons. he stated that I would need to add headers and dual intake 

 

knowing that, I may just keep the 230 completley stock, maybe regrind the cam back to spec and seal the engine up for a quicker easier rebuild. 

 

my initial thought was bore 230 with .60 pistons, cam, and go all out, but after hearing George say it would have to go with the dual carb/header setup. knowing I want to keep the stock look of the engine, doing all that seems like both a waste of money and time vs HP Gain's of about 100hp. 

 

I doubt anyone would look down their nose at you if you went with the dual carbs and at least a split exhaust.

They did that all the time back in the day.

I am sure that there are kits for that still available.

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got the engine to the school, going to tear down Monday and see what I have going on.

 

I have been told by so many people not to build this engine myself, which is fine because someone telling me I shouldn't or I cant do it as well as someone else motivates me to do it. 

 

never listen to those who discourage you from creating greatness. stay tuned for the engine build. 

 

also, got the Clutch/Flywheel/Throw out bearing/ Pressure plate rebuilt for $280 from a local shop and the revulcanizing cost me about $200

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