Guest RMATER6 Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 MAY HAVE AQUIRED A 27 CADDY VICTORIA. PRETTY RUSTY BUT I THINK IN CAN BE SAVED. I WAS WONDERING IF THERE IS ANYONE THAT KNEW WHERE I COULD GET ENGINE PARTS FOR IT. OR IF EVEN. I SHOULD JUST PART IT OUT ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Try Egge Machine in Norwalk, California for parts. https://egge.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 (edited) If you get that car, you may need this book.... Edited October 3, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 I suppose anything can be saved....................buuuuuuutttt.............!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 This would be a beautiful car if restored. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabnut Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 What is your budget? Money will determine if this will be saved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Great looking car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) Welcome to AACA forums RMATER6 ! I can help you. There is a huge opportunity for you right now if you happen to be at Hershey. An annual Cadillac model 314 get together. If you are there , please contact me IMMEDIATELY by phone ( 408-621-8261 ) , and I will get you to the meeting. If you are not there , no immediate urgency. Call me anytime in that case. Where are you located ? - Carl Edited October 4, 2017 by C Carl Spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Personally, I wouldn't worry about the money. If you like the car, rebuild it. If all the people on here worried about the money before they started their restorations, this would be a pretty quiet forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 1 hour ago, GregLaR said: yes profile couldn't be better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C Carl Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 The above black Cadillac is a 1926 , the only year to have the toolbox and battery box built into the front fenders. The Victoria is a Standard model on the 132" wheelbase. The black 4 passenger coupe is a Custom , on the 138" wheelbase. Both are Fisher bodies , the Custom more elegant , and about 30% more expensive. Mechanicals are the same. These are very reliable cars , quite strong. 1927 was the last iteration of the 314 cu. in. 3 1/8 X 5 1/8 fork and blade Leland V8 for Cadillac. Although the same dimensions as the first Leland V8 , I can't think of any component which the first and last shared. An enormous amount of engineering was continuously applied to the Cadillac V8 engines. By 1924 when Cadillac engineers and mathematicians produced the 2 plane crankshaft equipped inherently balanced V8 , you might have thought G.M. would stand pat. They knew the Nacker offset blocks engine was to be introduced soon , but improvements kept coming frequently. Among changes to the new engine for 1926 , Cadillac went to a single waterpump which cooled better then the 2 pump system which did a very fine job already. Discrete , individual starter and generator also introduced in 1926. 1927 saw 2 different V8s , with 2 variants of the early engine. The last Leland engine , the late 1927 , incorporated some features which were precursors to the new Nacker V8 , that engine being introduced in the first LaSalle , also in 1927. I find it impressive that constant improvment became incorporated as soon as it became available. I wonder if this was unique to G.M. , or did any other manufacturer have the same practice , as frequently implemented ? Of course G.M.s sales were high enough to amortize large development costs. - Carl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Friartuck Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) I think this Caddy can be saved. Note: The dual rear spare option is rare. We don't know exactly what RMATER6 skill level is, so hard to say. Take still pics and video before you move it. As you disassemble it, label, tag, photograph. Document the vehicle as best as possible. You'll be surprised on what will be important later and you'll have references to rely on. Get pics (and video if possible) of like vehicles. Build up a library of references. Research the model and know what differences between models Be patient when disassembling, a vehicle in this condition, bolts and hardware will be stubborn. Avoid breakage where possible. Have ample space to work in: two or more car spaces and and plan on a multi year project. This will be a long process for an experienced restorer, even longer for a beginner. Get a running and rolling chassis first before you attack the body. Verify the engine runs and that the drive line is working RMATER6, can you divulge where the vehicle is located? Edited October 4, 2017 by Friartuck (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I have been a mechanic / fabricator for 15 + years. just built a 1940 Chevy rat rod pick up with a hemi. built and engineered every aspect of car. just this this would be a cool reso to do. Not cheap by any means but how many 20s caddys do you see, also would like to preserve a little piece of automobile history. it does have all associated tags ( body, and engine tag) also have doors, front and rear glass not sure on door glass. but that is the least of my worries. still has all dash pieces and gauges even silver inlay is still 90% intact. this model is a Victoria. excited to try to get this car. owner of property is in his 80s and lives 2 states away property looks abandoned. I will keep you gentleman posted. and appreciate all the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 KEISER31 I MAY NEED U TO PHOTO COPY THOSE PAGES FOR ME LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I have had cars in similar condition.... maybe. Don't spend the first week disassembling it! I would clean every square inch of that car as if I was going to the biggest show around. Then lubricate everything rusty. Balance whatever money you spend as close the 50/50 mechanical to cosmetic. If you decide to bail out the money spent on cosmetic will return a lot more than repaired mechanicals. People buy pretty, even if it is just a little. It looks like a car I would buy and enjoy The Process for three or four years, then sell for a bit of profit and more on. Do it as long as it pleases you. Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SaddleRider Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 1 hour ago, RMATER6 said: I have been a mechanic / fabricator for 15 + years. just built a 1940 Chevy rat rod pick up with a hemi. built and engineered every aspect of car. just this this would be a cool resto to do. Can you give us more technical detail on this " 1940 Chevy" ? For example...tell us about the front suspension components...the rear axle, brakes, electrical system. How about some photos. Tell us about the wheels, the radiator, the dash board. What I am curious about....is whether you actually do have a 1940 Chev.....or do you have a modern car, which you assembled out of modern components, and fastened to that SOME of the sheet metal from a 1940 Chev. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SaddleRider Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 18 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said: It looks like a car I would buy and enjoy The Process for three or four years, then sell for a bit of profit and more on. Do it as long as it pleases you. Bernie "sell for a profit"....? Someone help me out here - am curious about your above statement........would like to know more about restoration costs in comparison with just buying a similar car already fixed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Certainly not a modern chassis. 354 hemi bored .060 over to accept 392 pistons 1955 331 heads with oversize 392 stainless valves big springs isky cam pushbutton shift from a New Yorker . 9" rear with alternator mounted on center section made a pulley that mounts to rear yoke to charge while vehicle is moving. zd frame for appearance and oil pan clearance. rear trailing arms with a pan hard bar and coil over qa1 shocks. front suspension. built subframe under dash to mount steering box for cowl steering set up. pretty cool car. actually built it for my wife being 6ft2 I don't fit that well lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) 41 minutes ago, SaddleRider said: "sell for a profit"....? Someone help me out here - am curious about your above statement........would like to know more about restoration costs in comparison with just buying a similar car already fixed up. Taking things out of context and speed reading have been causing problems for a long time. Enjoying a car like that for a few years and rolling it for 3-4 thousand extra has been keeping me in walking around money since I was a kid. I would estimate way less that 5% of my life's earnings have ever gone into my car hobby stuff. The part about splitting your money between mechanical and cosmetic is the key. Lots of guys leave the cosmetics until last, bad move. Reminds me of the time I hired a LEAN black belt sigma certified employee. He recommended a displaced C level business consultant with similar credentials. As a courtesy I went. The guy told me my business card was crap and my website looked like a kid made it. He said he had no idea how I had achieved the level of success I had. If he didn't know I sure didn't need his advice. Sometimes the obvious is unthinkable. Rmater6, I would be interested in that car if you decline. PM me if it becomes available. Oh, I like the drum headlights on the '26 a lot. Bernie Edited October 4, 2017 by 60FlatTop (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabnut Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Body first as it will be the hardest. Most can do mechanical and many tin guys available for the fenders and such but the wood framing in the body.... Looking at the picture only and seeing only some of the metal damage I would quote between $30000 to $40000 to get the body together in prime ready for paint. To do that I would need every piece of the body and the chassis or a detailed drawing of the chassis and mounting locations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustDave Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I say go for it just takes time and patience,if not for people like you so many cars did and would wind up on the scrap heap,25 years ago they wouldn't have bought it for parts fast forward 25 years and cars like this need to be saved,once junked all history is lost,anyone can buy a nice car and restore it cars like this take talent and patience go for it, just my opinion dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) also regarding the history on this car, does anyone know how I would go about tracking down buyers and owners of the car. would be nice to see a little history or background on the car also this car still has body tag with model number and such Edited October 4, 2017 by RMATER6 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
60FlatTop Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I would guess the history goes something like " Somewhere around 1960 a local antique aficionado warned the owner not to waste his time on a closed car. Just push it out back and hope an open car comes along someday. Then you can part it out and have a worthwhile car." That kind of advice is still fresh in my mind. I didn't listen then, either. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 We have rewooded many early cars over the last 38 years, everything from an L29 Cord, to a Kissel, to a ' 41 Packard Civil Defense Ambulance. We would estimate $15000 to $20000 to rewood the body and do any necessary metal work to the body and doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 is there anyway to run the numbers too see how many owners it has had...etc where is the vin actually or did the go by another number?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayne sheldon Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Cadillac? Maybe. Some record may exist from the first owner. I am not a Cadillac expert, and can't help you there. Many high end custom cars of that era did keep such records. Most average and medium cars of that era? Forget it. A few states did not even register cars at that time. Most states that did register cars, did NOT keep the records. Several states (like Califunny) had records kept for some years, then lost to a fire or other disaster. Then, there is the history that got in the way. The stock market crash of '29. The great depression that followed it. Many millions of people moved looking for work. Just about the time recovery was getting a good foothold, along came a world war. Nearly half the people in the nation were sent overseas or moved to where they were needed in manufacturing and other war efforts. For almost twenty years, cars of the 1920s were just old cars and basic transportation, and most people had much more important things to do (like find work and food) than to keep track of their car's provenance. Even after all that, most cars from the '20s did not become truly collectible until the '60s and '70s. Most of the cars I have had? Nothing was known before about the early '60s. Cars from the '10s and '20s with a known history back to when new? Are the exception, and not the rule. As much as it would be nice to have, for most cars of that era, that information simply does not exist. Still, that would be an incredible car if properly restored! It is a huge undertaking given its condition. But I have seen similar cars in similar condition done before. I have myself restored cars from worse. But never a car so grand as that Cadillac! I wish you well with it, whatever you decide to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 Cadillac still has all the original build sheets for their cars, so you can see that the car originally had and what dealership it was delivered to Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 hidden hunter where would I find this info ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Build Records ($50) The build record is a document that followed the vehicle down the assembly line as the car was being built. Assembly line workers used the option codes on the build record to determine which part they were to install. The build record option codes were specific to different vehicle lines and require decoding to understand individual options. Cadillac is the only General Motors division that was able to preserve the majority of their factory build records all the way back to 1903. These build records have taken on many forms over the years. Early build records were hand written in oversized leather bound journals. While more recent records are computer generated. Build records are available for Cadillac only. There are no Cadillac build records available for 1968, 1974-1979 and some 1973 models. Cadillac build records are printed from microfilm or microfiche. This package will include information pertaining to the option code and be mailed USPS for $50 USD. The format of Vehicle Build Sheets and Invoices vary by division and year. Please click on the sample to review formats available. http://www.gmmediaarchive.com/?page=2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 thank you so much mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 http://www.100megsfree4.com/cadillac/cad1920/cad27s.htm http://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Cadillac/1927_LaSalle_VVI.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 can u look it up for 1927 Victoria also it won't let me open file Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 I do think I have a rarity considering the Fisher name plate and caddy tag with serial number is still there. also I did go look at car again and the serial tag and engine serial match.....pretty cool this one is a job number 7030 body 106 pretty cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 because this is not a LaSalle those were the newer model this is just a Victoria I can find it in the other link u posted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Link, click on cadillac to show Cadillac info packages by year - https://gmheritagecenter.com/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits.html 1927 Cad info - https://gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Cadillac/1927_Cadillac_VVI.pdf 1927 - 1928 Production onfo - https://gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Cadillac/1927_LaSalle_VVI.pdf The 1926 - 1927 Cadillac Line - https://gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Cadillac/1926_Cadillac_VVI.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Lots of info there if someone digs through it. Owners manual and shop manual type stuff. Main and Connecting Rod Bearings Cylinders and Pistons Limits for standard cylinder bore (see §1537) 3.1250-3.1270 inch Cylinder bore, out-of-round Not over .002 inch Piston out-of-round Not over .001 inch Clearance between piston and cylinder (measure with feelers) 002-.003 inch Clearance between ends of piston rings 005-.015 inch Clearance between wrist pin and piston See § 1537 Clearance between wrist pin and bushing in connecting rod See § 1537 Clearance between crankshaft and main bearings 0015-.002 inch find play in crankshaft 005-.010 inch Clearance between crankpin and connecting rod bearing 0005-.0015 inch End play in connecting rods .- .005-.011 inch Valve System Camslide or valve stem clearance, inlet valve 004 inch when cold Camslide or valve stem clearance, exhaust valve .006 inch when cold Compression of valve spring at 2,¾ inch Not under 133 lbs. Clearance between camslide and guide Not over .004 inch Clearance between camslide roller and pin Not over .003 inch Clearance between water pump and gen. drive sprocket and support .003-.005 inch Clearance between camshaft and bearings * 0024-.0032 inch End play in camshaft 004 inch Clearance between splines of drive shaft and splineways in the yoke of universal joint Not over .005 inch Clearance between universal joint yokes and rings 001-.0025 inch Oil Pump Clearance between outside diameter of oil pump gears and oil pump body 003-.005 inch End play in oil pump gears 005-.0125 inch Thickness of oil pump gasket 009-.011 inch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 132" Wheelbase 80 HP 314.5 cubic inch V-8 ER 7030 1927 CADILLAC (314A) STANDARD VICTORIA, five-passenger 2-dr, 5p 132" 314.5ci V8 1bbl 80hp 1380 4600 13800 18400 27600 41400 http://www.caaarguide.com/sub1/id469.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 My 22 doesn't have any fisher data tags on it, all the info has been chiselled into one of the floor boards including body style Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest RMATER6 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 HEY GUYS, TYPICALY WHAT TYPE OF WOOD WAS THE INNER STRUCTURE OF THE CAR BUILT WITH?? AGAIN THIS IS ON THE VICTORIA. ALSO WHAT DID IT HAVE FOR A CARB. THE ORIGINAL ONE IS MISSING Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Restorer32 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Body wood was usually ash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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