RichBad Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) Hi, I thought I'd add some photos showing progress of my Dodge Tourer restoration. When I started the restoration I found that there is plenty of knowledge and helpful people around but not a lot of information on line so I thought that this could help others doing any work on a similar model. I purchased the car in December 2015, it was running (but only just) and over the course of the next year I sorted out some of the basics (brakes, carb, charging etc) so I could get it registered and drive it. Mid 2017 (winter) I got a bit bored one weekend and decided to tear it down and restore it, the plan is to do in two parts. First, the chassis, running gear and engine and then (probably the following winter) the Body. Edited September 29, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) Converting steering box to modern seals and needle roller bearing. Adaptor and seal for Throttle/timing controls Steering input shaft seal (housing machined to suit and new bush fitted). Output shaft ground to suit needle roller bearings and thrust bearing fitted (~3mm left at original diameter to provide better location for thrust bearing). Needle roller bearings fitted to housing (one each end) Oil seal for output shaft Finished box here - http://forums.aaca.org/topic/299339-192728-dodge-brothers-series-128129-tourer/?do=findComment&comment=1680110 Details of the bearing and seals (all from simply bearings Ltd): 2 x Sector shaft needle roller - HK2820-MB Sector shaft thrust assembly - NTA1828 & TRA1828 Sector shaft oil seal - 28x40x8 Main shaft top seal - 25x40x6 Lower oil seal - 12.45x22x7 (needs adaptor to fit). Main shaft upper bush - AI.1418-24.PL Main shaft lower bush - AI.1418-16.PL Sector shaft was ground to suit new bearing but with ~3mm left at original diameter to help locate the thrust bearing. Edited December 19, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) Pulling it apart End of the first day A lot of nuts and bolts to clean up Parts ready for stripping and powder coating Chassis has a few poor repairs that need fixing - looks like cracks just behind the rear engine mounts (seems to be a weak point) and has had a front and rear end smash at some stage. I've fixed up the rear end OK, the section behind the rear engine mounts should be quite straightforward but the front is a bit of a mess (various bends, welds and plates that need to be fixed up) Photos of all the individual parts for cleaning/blasting and powder coating - Dodge parts powder coating_A2.pdf Edited September 30, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) Plating and some of the powder coating finished Edited September 29, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) Starting the rebuild Detroit Lubricator Carburettor and spark arrestor/Air 'filter' North East Electric Co Horn - Model 3715C (Yes, I know it's a 12v and should be a 6v) North East Electric Co Starter motor Model 6404 North East Electric Co Distributor TU 10826 (pot metal base just about holding together) Rear tail light Rear brake balance bar assembly Differential pinion assembly - converted to modern oil seal (85x45x10mm) Handbrake - had to make a new spring as the original snapped - not perfect but my first attempt at making a spring Radiator Fan hub - converted to run on sealed ball bearings (5/8" x 1-3/8") with aluminium adapter (retaining original shaft) Original gear knob fell apart when I tried to remove but managed to find a replacement that looks identical Startor motor switch and generator cut out Jack - I think its the correct version for the car? Brake pedal assembly, pivot bored and fitted with a bush. Pedal and lever both keyed and riveted to shaft - belt and braces! Edited October 22, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stakeside Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Thanks for posting. I have that carb also and you did a good job of showing the parts. This is a good reference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Nice series of pictures. Looks like you are doing a real great job. Thanks for sharing. I never knew until I saw the middle picture of your "plated and powder coated parts" that Dodge used "Mechanics" U-joints. Learn something every day. Keep us posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 (edited) It all looks so great! Edited September 29, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 29, 2017 Author Share Posted September 29, 2017 3 hours ago, Tinindian said: Nice series of pictures. Looks like you are doing a real great job. Thanks for sharing. I never knew until I saw the middle picture of your "plated and powder coated parts" that Dodge used "Mechanics" U-joints. Learn something every day. Keep us posted. Thanks. It's the first time I've come across this type of UJ and haven't been able to find much info on them. One of them is worn quite a lot and I wanted to find some parts but think I may have to make replacement parts or repair with some bushes and replacement shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hursst Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 Great work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 29, 2017 Share Posted September 29, 2017 I have not found any replacement pieces in 58 years of hunting. I have one book "UNIVERSAL JOINTS STEERING GEARS" 124B, by the International Textbook Company in Scranton Pa 1931 date. I will get the pages scanned and post them for you. In the early 60's I cut my original joints off and replaced them with the common Spicer joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Some copy places get things out of order. However we can cope. Bottom of page 13 to top of page 16 will give you some information. I was told by several machine shops that it was totally impossible to rebuild these joints. https___webmail.telus.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 4 hours ago, Tinindian said: Nice series of pictures. Looks like you are doing a real great job. Thanks for sharing. I never knew until I saw the middle picture of your "plated and powder coated parts" that Dodge used "Mechanics" U-joints. Learn something every day. Keep us posted. And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint? Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Very nice work. Great to see another car being redone properly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 1 hour ago, Tinindian said: Some copy places get things out of order. However we can cope. Bottom of page 13 to top of page 16 will give you some information. I was told by several machine shops that it was totally impossible to rebuild these joints. https___webmail.telus.pdf Thanks, that's very helpful. I couldn't figure out how it would retain lubricant but from the manual it looks like some cork gaskets will sort that out. From what I can see rebuilding them shouldn't be a problem - the biggest issue I'll have will be if the pins on the main shaft are too worn as they could be very difficult to repair/replace. The other pins should be no problem and for the trunnions I should be able to fit a sleeve where they are worn. Im surprised no one makes replacement parts as the trunnions are quite simple and they would be the most likely parts to wear out. Perhaps they weren't widely used and it's easier to just fit a modern UJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I was told that the trunions were too hard to be machined. These u joints were fairly common at one time. Used on some Packards, Auburns, Oaklands, Dodges and Pontiacs. I once saw a list of about twenty manufacturers that used "Mechanics" u joints but cannot find it now or remember all of them. With the paper gasket between the two haves and good cork rings they didn't leak. Once the were worn of course then the corks were pounded out so grease was used and of course there was more and more wear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zipdang Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 18 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint? Ben Repeating the above posted question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MitchellWells Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Very nice looking car. Looks like you will have plenty to keep you busy for awhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 Nice work, where abouts in Australia are you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 4 hours ago, zipdang said: Repeating the above posted question. It’s a type of u joint, different from the typical design. Has a pressed steel outer housing - like a doughnut. More details here http://forums.aaca.org/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=899052 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted September 30, 2017 Author Share Posted September 30, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, hidden_hunter said: Nice work, where abouts in Australia are you? Thanks! Melbourne Edited September 30, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hidden_hunter Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 11 minutes ago, RichBad said: Thanks! Melbourne Same! I’m out in the south east - hope to see your car running about some time 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 3 hours ago, hidden_hunter said: Same! I’m out in the south east - hope to see your car running about some time Cool, I’m in Rowville so probably not that far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 On 30/09/2017 at 10:27 AM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said: And what is a "Mechanics" U-joint? Ben Photo below (not assembled to prop shaft & flange). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 1, 2017 Author Share Posted October 1, 2017 Boyce motometer - had the rims and dogbone plated but couldn’t remove the thermometer from the body to get it plated (swaged in). I think the body is pot metal so I tried polishing it and it came up pretty well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) My 32' Olds has the same type of oil filled fan hub which I too, was going to change over to sealer bearings but all I needed to do was re-bush the hub. Edited October 2, 2017 by chistech (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 2, 2017 Author Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) 9 hours ago, chistech said: My 32' Olds has the same type of oil filled fan hub which I too, was going to change over to sealer bearings but all I needed to do was re-bush the hub. I would have liked to keep mine original but unfortunately someone had previously replaced the main housing with a flange/bush assembly (which was knackered). I think the original pot metal casting doesn’t always last too well. Did yours have the gear pump at the front? Edited October 2, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 The Olds has a flat plate at the front of the main shaft that looks like a scoop. There are four 1/8" holes evenly spaced at 0, 90, 180, 270 and while the hub rotates, oil comes in through those holes, is scooped up buy the front plate and then pressure from the centrifugal force pushed oil down a spiral groove on the main shaft lubricating the bushings. There is a slinger on the other end which helps keep all the oil in the hub body. There is no actual seal on the shaft at the back end. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 (edited) Oil pump ready to reassemble - any tips/tricks (appart from lots of oil). Finished pump Edited October 22, 2017 by RichBad (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 The gears fit between two flat plates. Are those plates smooth with no wear beside the gears? if there is wear it is best to machine those surfaces so there is very small clearance to the gears. Can you post pics of the top of the bottom plate and the inside of the housing? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 5, 2017 Author Share Posted October 5, 2017 14 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: The gears fit between two flat plates. Are those plates smooth with no wear beside the gears? if there is wear it is best to machine those surfaces so there is very small clearance to the gears. Can you post pics of the top of the bottom plate and the inside of the housing? Thanks, I added some photos to the original post. The bottom plate looks pretty good, there are some marks but nothing you can feel. The housing also looks quite good, there are a few localised corrosion pits but doesn’t look like there is a lot of wear. With the gears installed they sit flush (perhaps very slightly proud) to the body. There was a gasket between the body and bottom plate so I guess that gives some clearance to the gears. What size gasket should be used (assuming it is supposed to have one) and what endfloat should the gears have? cheers richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 7, 2017 Author Share Posted October 7, 2017 Next batch back from the powder coaters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Nothing like shiny powder coat 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Looking great! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Looks like a great project, thanks for sharing it with us! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 16, 2017 Author Share Posted October 16, 2017 Last batch of powder coating except for the chassis (which had its own problems). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 16, 2017 Share Posted October 16, 2017 Here is my oil filled fan hub with it's new bronze bushings. Simple design that has worked well. The shaft had such minimal wear that it didn't need any replacement and the play in the new bushings is virtually nil. Seems to be very similar to your Dodge's. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 17, 2017 Author Share Posted October 17, 2017 yes, that’s very similar to mine before I changed to bearings except mine wasn’t done that neatly and was worn out too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichBad Posted October 20, 2017 Author Share Posted October 20, 2017 Old and new rubber for the spring bump stops - not quite enough rubber to finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Those damn rubber pieces add up the $$$$$ pretty quickly. By the time you’re done it’s easy to have $1,000-1,500 into rubber alone on a 4dr closed car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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