JoelsBuicks Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks Lamar. I used the oxy/acetylene torch to make the bolt holes in the beams. Then I just held the wood in place and drilled through the holes and through the wood. I know, it sound simple but I've struggled with these things for a few weeks now. I think it has more to do with my shortage of available time recently. This may be a discussion better left for the sawmill forum but there is a reason that rough sawn boards are further processed through planing and edging to final dimension. At best a 1920's mill like mine will saw repeatedly within about 1/16 inch of desired dimension. But, if you are in a hurry and you have a poorly sharpened saw, about all you can count on is accuracy within 1/8". These power poles (about 1990 vintage) do make great wood that stays straight and once all nailed up, will not show its dimensional flaws. I'm losing precious Buick time on this project and I'm eager to get it to a point where a good framer can manage it. Thanks again, Joel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Stuck here in the Houston Airport waiting the first of four hours delay because of a broken plane! Oh well, it's a good time for a shop update. Before I get into that, a life changing event has abruptly snuck up on me. I will retire at the end of this month and the timing is due to an attractive calculus for my pension which would have seriously changed for the worst if I waited til August which was my original date. I don't much like surprises. So, I decided that with more time, I can do a little more work on the shop myself and save some labor costs. With the lumber sawing now complete, I've decided to build the trusses. There will be twenty five trusses spaced on 4' and they span 28'. They are 4-12 pitch and use 2x6 for the top and bottom chords and 2x4 braces. The gussets are 3/4 plywood, no flakeboard for these. I start first by drawing out the truss on the concrete floor and lay the lumber on those marks; add the gussets and braces and nail with an air nailer. It helps to have all parts pre-cut. I build one truss and leave it on the floor. The successive trusses are then built and flipped over to gusset the other side. The trusses will span the space between the I beams in the pic. Two down and 23 to go! But first, Los Angeles for a week - one last time. Now, I'm just 2 -1/2 hours from boarding. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Awesome Joel! ( why do I think I am going to be saying that a lot throughout this thread?) maybe I missed it but is that still power pole lumber you're using for the trusses? 3/4", those are some serious gussets. I think you mentioned it before, but considering that is rough-cut lumber, what is the actual dimensions of those 2x's? Your building design is the same as an old lumber company building I helped demolish for the lumber about 25 years ago. It was built totally out of old growth fir back in the 30's and the bottom chords were unspliced 28 footers. I built the old barn and a pole barn out of all of it, I loved working with the fir! I considered building my own trusses for my current garage project, but after looking at the prices of lumber, gussets and nails for them and them being 40 footers and working by myself I decided to have them fabbed and delivered. Congrats on the early retirement!!! Look forward to following your build! Dude, just be careful on that roof work! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 very impressive, stay safe!!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ILIKECARS53 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Not sure of the laws in OK, but when I build my barn in New Jersey, the trusses had to be signed off by an engineer. Plus that had to be made by a certified company, could not build them myself. Be safe installing. Without a crane they can be a bear to install with out the right help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 In Oklahoma we haven't quite evolved that far. There are building codes for residences but not for barns. Having said that, I did consult with a free and rudimentary truss design software and I also consulted the lumber loading charts - several of which are online. All of these said that I could use all 2x4's but that felt weak to me so I used 2x6's. Although I am an engineer, I have not signed off on them. They will hold up a snow load that Oklahoma will only see if we cut too much CO2 and start global freezing! All kidding aside, this rural area is full of sagging barns and shacks but freedom includes the ability to do dumb things. Buyer beware! Thanks, Joel 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 All of the lumber for the shop was sawed from the power poles. They are not creosote but would have had a green tint when they were new. There were two of these poles that an aluminum tag (sort of like a Buick firewall tag) that listed several coniferous wood species. A hole was punched next to Douglas Fir. I believe they were all the same species. I strive to saw dimensional lumber at a minimum. A sawmill, especially this old circle saw mill, is only good for about +/- 1/16". So, most of my 2x6's will end up about 1-9/16" x 5-5/8". The wood I'm getting is very nice looking stuff - looks as good as you'd buy and with no twists, wane, bow or cups. When you design your own building, you know exactly the length of 95% of all your boards and so I cut them to length so that The framing is fast. It does require some marking for the framers to follow when nailing. Below are piles of wood staged for the building. Thanks again for the nice comments. Joel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Oops, sorry for the duplicate post, maybe our gracious moderator will fix it. I think I did this when two pics failed the upload. I should quit doing this from my iPhone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 The trusses are done; twenty five of them to be spaced 48". I used every scrap of 3/4" plywood we had for gussets and had to buy 2 sheets. My old nail gun hung in there, shooting just over 8000 nails for these trusses. Just over a week left before retirement. More time is on the way. Thanks, Joel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Awesome! i see a miter saw set up, did you you have it set up with a jig or? The angle on the bottom cut of the top truss was too long for the saw though wasn't it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Lamar, you're obviously no stranger to this game! There are two mitre saws set up, at the moment, to cut exactly 16'. But to cut the truss chords they were set to cut the required angles and length. As you pointed out, the angle at the lower end of the top chord is too low to cut on the mitre saw. So, it gets manually cut with a barrel saw to 18.43 degrees for a 4-12 pitch. The saws come in handy for making most of the cuts on the shorter 2x4 braces inside the truss. A little trig goes a long way when figuring out this stuff. I'm glad I paid attention in that class. Thanks again, Joel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Keep posting the progress. It is always interesting to see how others build things and in almost every case decisions are made around the available materials. You are fortunate to have the sawmill and we are all waiting to see how the shop progresses. Good luck with the retirement, I can tell you from experience that I got more done at home when I worked than I seem to do now in retirement. When I first retired, I spent half the time on a project, fixing damaged or broken tools that I had been using that way because I did not have time to fix the tool and get the job done. The end of March, I am completing 19 years of retirement.......with a ultimate goal of being retired as long as I worked 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alsancle Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Wow. I'm feeling tremendously inadequate. What a great project. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 My shop is located just a few miles from an Amish community. In the last twenty years or more there are several families that have added to their farming income by doing work for locals, especially carpentry and construction of metal buildings. Yesterday I drove (in my 60 Electra BTW) to see Henry who finished my wood shop for me a few years ago. I made a deal with him to finish my new shop. He'll start in about a month. He and his crew are hardworking craftsmen and this will be a softball pitch right up their power alley. More re shots of wood below: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 56 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said: Lamar, you're obviously no stranger to this game! There are two mitre saws set up, at the moment, to cut exactly 16'. But to cut the truss chords they were set to cut the required angles and length. As you pointed out, the angle at the lower end of the top chord is too low to cut on the mitre saw. So, it gets manually cut with a barrel saw to 18.43 degrees for a 4-12 pitch. The saws come in handy for making most of the cuts on the shorter 2x4 braces inside the truss. A little trig goes a long way when figuring out this stuff. I'm glad I paid attention in that class. Thanks again, Joel 18.43* eh, I was about to say that had to take some trig but can you seriously set that on a barrel saw. How old is your barrel saw? Have only ever seen one and it was huge and old at an old lumber yard, is that what you have? Pictures please! geometry was fun, trig, not! totally ruined my summer school experience and only passed because the pretty teacher liked me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I think I know but ???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 Not sure why I call it a barrel saw but it's nothing more than a worm drive skilsaw. Those boards on the trailer are ripped on an angle and will sit atop the supporting walls and will hold up the 2x8 rafters. I'm lazy and didn't want to notch the rafters and I think notching takes away some of the strength. I cut that angle on my 20" band saw fitted with an aggressive blade. I will need nearly three hundred feet. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 4, 2017 Author Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) The sawmill got a new set of teeth yesterday. I'm posting some closeup pics of the 48" blade, also called a circle saw or just "the saw." A saw wrench removes the crescent shaped shank which wedges in place and holds the tooth, also called a bit. These are high speed steel bits and are easily knocked down by nails. To sharpen them, just use a flat file. If it's damaged severely or if several bits get knocked down, it's time for a new set. A new bit is about 10/32" wide at the tip and the saw plate is about 1/8" thick at the outside but nearly double that at the eye (center). The kerf must be wider than the saw to keep the saw from rubbing in the log side. Rubbing makes heat and heat causes the saw to lose its tension. Im trying to get used to being retired. Ok so far but less than a week into it. Thanks! -Joel Edited March 4, 2017 by JoelsBuicks (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 Wow. I had no idea they were replaceable. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Hummmmmmm, we use to drive 60d nails and railroad spikes in pp bases for bench marks, ever have to pull any of them out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 I ran up on some 8" beveled Cypress that had been sawed (or is it sawn) 35 years ago and stored in an old sawmill. Loved the saw blade cuts that were left in the wood. Many looked like this with the cuts appearing to be going in both directions, bet you can explain that? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 On 3/3/2017 at 10:52 PM, JoelsBuicks said: Im trying to get used to being retired. Ok so far but less than a week into it. Congratulation! And thanks for the lesson on the saw blade. I was wondering about replacing the tips when you mentioned it previously. How old is that Mill again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 That's some beautiful cypress. It's called wood of the Pharoahs as it was the wood of choice for burial coffins - it is rot resistant. It is also stable, strong and lightweight. When used on the exterior, it will turn gray and remain sound for more than a hundred years. The sawmill that sawed those boards had a couple minor issues. First, at least one tooth was knocked to the side and caused the exacerbated saw mark that is repeated every revolution. Second, the reverse saw mark pattern can be one of two problems. Most likely, the saw has a slight wobble and it touches the logside of the wood as it passes the backside of the saw. One thing you can do is turn the board over and see if that pattern is on both sides. My guess is that it's not. I have never sawed a railroad spike but I have sawed several of those white porcelain electrical insulators grown into a tree. They are extremely hard and will wreck a set of teeth. Take care, Joel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 Sorry John, didn't see your question while I was replying. My guess is that the saw works is about 1925. That would include the carriage and drive mechanics. The engine is 1950 international six cylinder. I replaced the original structural wood wood with steel. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 14, 2017 Author Share Posted March 14, 2017 Visiting inlaws in Yankton this week. Here's some pics of shop progress; we'll get back to it after we spend a day in Chickasha. The stud walls will form two internal rooms each the same size, about 18.5' x 25'. Both will be climate controlled; one for a living area and the other for a work room, capable of accommodating a buick. There will be a half vaulted ceiling and storage above the flat portion, about 16' wide and 38' long. Hopefully I'll have more to share soon. -Joel 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbuickgs Posted March 14, 2017 Share Posted March 14, 2017 Hey JOEL , ARE YOU RENTING ROOMS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ? LOL really GREAT WORK !!! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 Be looking for you, Joel Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Hmmmm, what's this, dude retires and all of a sudden the work stops, weird 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 4 hours ago, MrEarl said: Hmmmm, what's this, dude retires and all of a sudden the work stops, weird Looked for him at Chickasha. If he was there, we did not make contact. Ben 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 I can see that although I'm now retired, I get no breaks from you guys. A few days ago, I attempted to post a video of the mill in action but the file was way too big. I was in Chickasha with my brother, we are the two tallest in the pic. I asked two people for Ben and neither knew you. I was gonna ask the guy with the 50 Buick on his shirt but he was in deep conversation. Later I read he was you! I'll be honest about Chickasha and say that Buick parts were elusive. I did score a 31 headlight with a good solid bezel. There'll need to be a good reason for me to return. Maybe I just need to learn how to shop these meets. i got shop progress to report, see next post. Thanks, Joel 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 "What a difference a day makes; 24 little hours...." Well, my Amish framing crew showed up! They started Tuesday, got rained out Wednesday, and worked a full day today. I can't say enough good things about these folks. I grew up amongst them but they pretty much keep to themselves. After all these years, it's still an interesting experience. By the way, they are fascinated with the sawmill. I'll let the pics speak to the progress. I won't photograph their face, respecting their beliefs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Today I ordered my metal. It will be 26 gauge R-panel. There are numerous pieces of all kinds of panels and trim material that are needed. I spent a full half of two days with the 'parts list' and then a full hour with a consultant that works for the metal supplier. And, don't forget the stuff like tape seal, urethane closure material, and gobs of lap and structural screws. I read several spec and installation bulletins and still feel ignorant about it. Truthfully, this isn't much fun to me, especially with so many Buicks waiting. Oh, I forgot to mention that I ordered the insulation today. It's 3" with the white vinyl back for the roof only. The good news is that they cut to your specified length. Bad news is that's another hour of calculating. This will all go fast now. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted March 31, 2017 Author Share Posted March 31, 2017 Today's progress included the raising of the south wall and parts of the end walls. 2x8 rafters were placed and quite a few sheathing boards were nailed on. The building was straightened with a stringlike and cross braced in several spots. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 Looking HUGE, Joel. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Looking AWESOME Joel! Only one of the roof raising/truss setting?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Thank you. I badly wanted to take my iPhone camera out there and get shots of the four-person crew. It's widely known around here that they do not like to be photographed. That's my Dad in the red sock cap, inspecting the day's work. By the way, the peak is about 23' tall and that south wall is about 14'. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Rain early today but crew started about 9am. All rafters are up as are the end walls. The sheathing boards will come tomorrow and Wednesday and then framing on the paint booth. Metal arrives on Thursday and things will begin to take shape. 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 Holy smokers! You can hold Sunday service with this building! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoelsBuicks Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 It seems to be bigger with the framing in place. The height surprises me also. 70 mph winds predicted tonight. The crew left it well-braced. My future paint booth is now framed in as you'll see in today's pics. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 Crap, I need to get started back on mine (3 year project so far) or you're going to be turning wrenches in yours before I even get electrical ran in mine! of course if I'd hire some of the work out on mine it might help move things along. Joel yours is looking good man! You've got to be ecstatic that it is all finally happening and you'll soon have a dream garage you can be as proud of just as much as all the wonderful Buick's that will inhabit it. Really enjoying following the build, THANKS for sharing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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