How to Protect Chrome?

[Brandon Todd]

Hello,

 

Since I can only visit my Buick on the weekends (college life!), I was wondering if anyone has any good tricks on perserving chrome pieces?

 

Now that I finally have a nice set of rear bumper ends on the 57, I'd like to keep them shiny! I know how to clean chrome very well, but how would I go about protecting the chrome to keep them rust-free? I know the usual, keep out of rain, stay inside and dry routine, but is there a certain type of wax or grease that works well? And should I apply said wax/grease then buff off, or leave a layer? 

 

Thanks for any input! I appreciate it

[SpecialEducation]

Chrome keeps the steel from rusting.  It's used in lots of places that nothing else will survive because it is very hard and does not corrode.  Chrome bumpers rust from the back side out, or from the front where pits, chips, and scratches compromise the chrome and expose the steel underneath.  Chromed pot metal usually pits where contamination existed before the chrome was put on.

 

In short, just keep it clean.  You could wax it from time to time to protect any steel that might accidentally get exposed.

[Beemon]

1 hour ago, Brandon Todd said:

Since I can only visit my Buick on the weekends (college life!), I was wondering if anyone has any good tricks on perserving chrome pieces?

 

Take it with you! My mother protested I leave my Buick home while at college. Even though it's a rusted mess, I told her not a chance!

 

In regards to Chrome, what SpecialEd said. My chrome is pitted in many places, so I've just waxed it with chrome polish once a month to keep it shiny and smooth and protected.

[Brandon Todd]

4 minutes ago, Beemon said:

 

Take it with you! My mother protested I leave my Buick home while at college. Even though it's a rusted mess, I told her not a chance!

 

In regards to Chrome, what SpecialEd said. My chrome is pitted in many places, so I've just waxed it with chrome polish once a month to keep it shiny and smooth and protected.

oh how i wish i could!! haha. but im only about 70 miles away. But, my car has a nice, happy garage at home. plus the car isnt registered, i havent even got to really drive it yet!

[Bob Engle]

Proper plating is the key to longevity for chrome.  If the chrome has been directly plated onto steel, the is a great chance the chrome will blister or flake off especially on inside corners.  Chrome is hard and brittle and therefore does not take well to flexing and bumps.

 

 The good platers will give a lifetime guarantee on their plating.   The correct process is: Clean and polish the base metal, copper plate, nickel plate and then a very thin film of chrome. 

 

Bob Engle

[trimacar]

I believe the key to keeping chrome looking fresh is to keep it as clean as possible, and it's not even necessary to use cleaner (unless there's something abrasive that's settled on the chrome, it will scratch easily).

 

Not so much now, but I remember seeing in the 60's and 70's, cars that were from the 20's and 30's (thus that were 35 years old or so), which had been owned by wealthy people, thus had a chauffeur...and their job was to keep the car ready to go at a moment's notice.  This meant they had time to kill, of course, so to stay active, they wiped the car down with soft cloths, keeping it spotless.  The gentle wiping/cleaning of the chrome would keep it looking beautiful for a long time. 

 

I'm sure they also had time to get into all sorts of other mischief, but since this is a family oriented forum, won't go into those things at this time......

[JamesBulldogMiller55Buick]

treat it the same as you would a painted surface.

Clean it ,

wax it

repeat

[NTX5467]

I think that if I was going to start with a nice chrome item, I'd start with a gentle cleaner wax to ensure any stains and such were removed.  There are also some Meguiar's paint items which have a light abrasive component which dissolves with use, so not like normal abrasive "grit" that just stays around.  If your chrome is as recent as it sounds like, the light cleaner would be good enough.  THEN I'd look for some of the latest hi-tech waxes that are mainly "waxes", without abrasive components. 

 

The problem, to me, with a bumper end which might also be either near an exhaust system exit or the surround for an exhaust exit, is that the heat and gasses will cook off any wax/protectant which might be applied to it.  "Wax" usually contains "oil" components, which will evaporate with heat and time.  Not quite like wax on paint, in that respect . . . or more probably like BLACK paint in Southwestern USA summer heat (even ambient heat with no sun exposure). 

 

Once you get the base coat of wax and such, then a periodic touch-up would be needed, for the reasons I listed.

 

To address the "backside" rust issues, you can always clean and paint the BACK of the bumper and related items for rust prevention reasons.  Silver might be appropriate, but then black could work, too.

 

I presume you painted the "vanes" in the bumper end a satin black?  I'm not sure how it might work out, but as some people have painted chrome in the past, perhaps by using something like Windex to "de-wax" and clean the chrome, then you might be able to use some gloss clear enamel spray on the bumper end?  Might then wax that, after it cures?  I'm thinking it would be more heat-resistant and could be removed if it didn't "bite" onto the base surface.  Just regular enamel or acrylic enamel, no epoxies or similar.

 

NTX5467

[buick man]

…. here are a couple good primer sources regarding what you think you knew regarding chrome and what perhaps you should consider ….. also pH and non urea base products are a must.  Rust on chrome means usually the nickel has been compromised ….. and understanding the chrome process and the physic behind it should be a first step:   http://www.finishing.com/faqs/chrome.html

 

… as you can see it is not the chrome that protects the metal substrate, it's the other way around,  the nickel plating underneath that protects the final micro thin outer layer that is applied as chrome … and for longevity it is necessary to dual nickel plate the substrate, 1st with a semi bright  nickel followed by a bright nickel…...

 

…. then there are cleaning and preserving steps to know: 

 

http://www.englishcustompolishing.com/usca/nickelchrome.html

 

Here is a product I have used for a good number of years for hibernating and storing the chrome away and preserving it put it on and leave it on without removing it, then when ready for service just wipe off :

 

http://poorboysworld.com/wheel-sealant.htm

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited September 29, 2016 by buick man (see edit history)

[avgwarhawk]

What I do is make a mixture of 1 tsp white vinegar.  1/2 cup baking soda. 1/2 cup of natural spring water.  No wait...that is for stains in tile flooring.   Use chrome polish and wax.  Job done!    

[old-tank]

Keep it clean and indoors and it will outlast you.

As soon as you get chromed parts back from the plater, go over every square inch with a non-abrasive metal polish.  If you see any black on the polishing cloth, mark the spot and return the item to the plater....chrome is missing in that spot and the exposed nickel will soon tarnish to ugly yellow.

(mixing vinegar and baking soda does nothing other than some dramatic foaming...the reaction creates carbon dioxide, water and sodium acetate --- a benign salt)

[60FlatTop]

I have cleaned chrome real good, then wiped it thoroughly with lacquer thinner and shot a coat of rattle can clear over it. Four years from now wipe it off with whatever your liberal education will allow you to use.

 

That trick works very well on nasty die cast. Like, sell a car looking good.

Bernie

[Brandon Todd]

Thanks everyone for all the input! Sounds like the best thing to do is just keep it clean, inside, and go over it with chrome polish every couple weeks? and for long-term storage, place some wax over it and clean off when ready? 

[Brandon Todd]

2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:

I have cleaned chrome real good, then wiped it thoroughly with lacquer thinner and shot a coat of rattle can clear over it. Four years from now wipe it off with whatever your liberal education will allow you to use.

 

That trick works very well on nasty die cast. Like, sell a car looking good.

Bernie

You can shoot clear-coat over chrome? I figured it wouldnt stick well. And if it did, leave the chrome looking sort of hazy. But i have no idea.

[buick5563]

Don't do that.

[avgwarhawk]

2 hours ago, old-tank said:

 

(mixing vinegar and baking soda does nothing other than some dramatic foaming...the reaction creates carbon dioxide, water and sodium acetate --- a benign salt)

And it is great for stains in tile flooring! 

[Brandon Todd]

i got chrome polish, is there a good wax that most local stores carry?

[buick5563]

Brandon, 

If it is new fresh chrome and it is gonna be inside, just use a clean and spray product. Chrome is really hard. If you insist on rubbing wax on it, buy some wax. 

It's gonna be fine. The old guys are messing with you.

[Brandon Todd]

4 hours ago, buick5563 said:

Brandon, 

If it is new fresh chrome and it is gonna be inside, just use a clean and spray product. Chrome is really hard. If you insist on rubbing wax on it, buy some wax. 

It's gonna be fine. The old guys are messing with you.

dont mess with me guys!!!! 

 

Just kidding, it's all good. I know im a newbie. Haha!

 

I do appreciate everyone's input. I just want to make sure i keep my car in good hands! 

 

Thanks everyone

Edited October 1, 2016 by Brandon Todd (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

("old guys"??  5563 is NOT that far behind!)

[buick5563]

9 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

("old guys"??  5563 is NOT that far behind!)

 

Already there, NTX

[60FlatTop]

Four years is a long time. If you will just be visiting the car on weekends I figure it won't be licensed. The car is really at risk if everyone involved doesn't love that car. Taking up garage space, hard to start after sitting, a blown brake line, towing out of the garage with no brakes, a power window left open when it is under a tarp outside, and that little kitty in your signature could become the big nasty racoon taking up residence. As am old guy, those are things I have seen happen when the owner is away. And things committed by the most well intended.

Look at old cars and pay attention to the "rain lines" etched into the chrome. My friend Vince's Mom said "Oh, Vinny, we thought you'd want a new car when you came home so we had that old '32 Ford coupe towed away."

Trust, but verify.

Bernie

[Beemon]

23 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

My friend Vince's Mom said "Oh, Vinny, we thought you'd want a new car when you came home so we had that old '32 Ford coupe towed away."

 

In high school back in the early 70s, my dad had a 1968 Dodge Charger with a 426 hemi. After he got out of the Navy, he was "upgraded" to his father's 1974 Satellite. 

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

5 hours ago, buick5563 said:

 

Already there, NTX

 

 Not yet, son. Not yet.

 

  Ben

[NTX5467]

Back then, the '74 Satellite was an upgrade from a '68 Charger.  That "hot rod" motor was supposed to be hard to keep in tune (according to car magazine people back then).  Having been around some over the past few decades, I NOW know different, but still would want a/c.  We ALL now know different, on both the current/future value of anything with "wide valve covers" in a Mopar vehicle PLUS the 2nd gen Charger vs. the later ones!!  BUT back then, it made sense.

 

NTX5467

[NTX5467]

As good as covered/shielded storage might be, the BEST is still "enclosed building" storage . . . no matter what.  There can still be small rodents and insects, but YOU have the key and are in control.  If possible, you might shop for a reasonably-priced gates storage facility space.  That $100.00/month might end up being less expensive in the long run!  You can still use a normal car cover in the enclosed storage, to keep the car cleaner and NOT have to worry about moisture accumulation under a tarp causing even MORE problems than it was there to minimize!!!

 

NTX5467

[buick man]

On September 30, 2016 at 10:24 AM, Brandon Todd said:

i got chrome polish, is there a good wax that most local stores carry?

Brandon as was defined in our previous post and the links to threads presented, - almost all so-called polishes and waxes that are out there are harmful to chrome not only on an immediate basis but especially on a long term basis.  If they are based on urea and/or other acidic or too basic compounds ( because these are cheap and inexpensive base compounds for the manufacturer ) they WILL harm the chrome.  This is basic physical inorganic chemistry.  Furthermore, a chrome polish need never be used  micro mil spec thin electroplated chrome as it only opens and textures the surface on a microscopic level making way for future penetrations by a host of reactive agents be it salts, acids, bases or chemicals, all of which can and do react to initiate and to further propagate a breakdown of the surface thereby promoting pitting, staining and the ultimate rusting electrolysis one sees on decorative chrome surfaces that have been beat to heck and or maintained incorrectly.  This also includes all the other prehistoric wives tales of using such things as  Coca Cola ( phosphoric acid ) , tin foil or rubbing compounds such as backing soda and even chicken fat with grits ( usually a Texas back yard remedy ) .

[Brandon Todd]

1 hour ago, buick man said:

Brandon as was defined in our previous post and the links to threads presented, - almost all so-called polishes and waxes that are out there are harmful to chrome not only on an immediate basis but especially on a long term basis.  If they are based on urea and/or other acidic or too basic compounds ( because these are cheap and inexpensive base compounds for the manufacturer ) they WILL harm the chrome.  This is basic physical inorganic chemistry.  Furthermore, a chrome polish need never be used  micro mil spec thin electroplated chrome as it only opens and textures the surface on a microscopic level making way for future penetrations by a host of reactive agents be it salts, acids, bases or chemicals, all of which can and do react to initiate and to further propagate a breakdown of the surface thereby promoting pitting, staining and the ultimate rusting electrolysis one sees on decorative chrome surfaces that have been beat to heck and or maintained incorrectly.  This also includes all the other prehistoric wives tales of using such things as  Coca Cola ( phosphoric acid ) , tin foil or rubbing compounds such as backing soda and even chicken fat with grits ( usually a Texas back yard remedy ) .

Thank you so much! I did not know about polishes. Kinda scary to think about

[nick8086]

Do not use this:

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/krylon-cs101.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp8838971&sc_intid=KRYCS101&gclid=CMHp6rG6u88CFQQpaQodGeUJ3g

 

 

[buick man]

On September 30, 2016 at 10:24 AM, Brandon Todd said:

i got chrome polish, is there a good wax that most local stores carry?

 

….. don't be scared …. be informed and research the topic since you now have a good starting basis on which to initiate a great research topic,  and to give thanks to all of your good fellow Buick brethren who have offered advice on this thread …. Amen :')

[NTX5467]

There are several things which might need to be realized . . . one is that any "smooth" surface is not that smooth when put under a microscope, especially a "strong" one.  What can be smooth and shiney to the unassisted eye is really a landscape of peaks and valleys.  Polishes and abrasives can take the peaks off somewhat still leaving the valleys until finer abrasive grits are used.  Think what a painted surface looks like after 80-grit and then what the same surface looks like after significant use of 600 grit abrasives, for example.  Even the newer micro-grits will leave some valleys, later to be "shined" with a protective liquid substance as the final finish.  At that point, recall the "buffer marks" swirl pattern you could see in power-buffer paints and even some hand-buffed finishes (with rougher polishing towels)?  It's those peaks/valleys which are reflecting light rays.

 

Most "factory chrome" will have some level of "finish marks" in the base metal before the final plating was performed.  In a stronger light, these "marks" are visible whereas in many re-chromed items, those marks are filled in with the applications of metal prior to the final chrome application, by observation.  "Show Chrome" costs more and usually has NONE of those factory marks visible, PLUS some platers us so much of those metals that they can obscure some of the final details of the original object being chromed!  Kind of like too much body filler obscuring some body lines on a fender or similar!  Looks good until you start looking for the details!

 

In my earlier days of car stuff, we bought a new '69 Chevy pickup.  The paint was not that great, but somewhat typical of the time.  It was a two-tone and I sought to remove some of the obvious over-spray.  I bought some quality white polishing compound at an auto supply store.  I quickly noticed that in seeking to remove the obvious slight over-spray, I was ALSO removing the paint color it was over-sprayed on!  Although I was making it look better and shinier, I was also removing some of the paint I was seeking to make look better! 

 

Chrome (and glass) might be considered to be "hard" and "scratch resistant", BUT that is not completely true.  With glass it's pretty visible when things do scratch it, but the issues with Chrome can take somewhat longer to appear.

 

Hadn't heard of the chicken fat "trick".  Sounds like a sub-optimal use of something now considered to have possible "natural healing" properties for humans.  PLUS that it'd probably wash off and/or attract dust easily.  Might have been more "for shine" as the trick I heard of using "engine top oil additive" by WWII troops to shine up their Jeeps, back then.  You use what you've got!  As the chickens, back then, were probably "home grown", using it "bare handed" could work, too.  With the sun's heat re-flowing it for better shine, possibly before it dripped on the ground. 

 

In later times, I try to use cleaner waxes rather than strictly finer abrasives per se.  If the base paint is not shot "slick enough", best to use the least amount of abrasive rather than start with the coarser grit and progress to the finer grits  . . unless enough paint was put on the vehicle to compensate for that situation.  I might use the cleaner wax for general principles first, but then switch to a "straight wax" with no abrasives for later situations.  In any event, the cleaner wax is the default mode for me.  That works for me in what I have to maintain.

 

NTX5467

[avgwarhawk]

On 10/1/2016 at 11:56 PM, buick man said:

 even chicken fat with grits ( usually a Texas back yard remedy ) .

 

The chrome looked great but the entire neighborhood dog population chased after me to town.... 

[Restorer32]

First rule is don't let cats climb on your car.

[avgwarhawk]

3 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

First rule is don't let cats climb on your car.

 

or in it.  The front seat apparently looks like a litter box.  I speak from experience.  My fathers 68 olds became just that.  A litter box.  To further aggravate the situation the solid home air fresheners melt in the sun.  Not a good idea to use to cover cat urine smell in a 68 olds.  Stupid cat.  

[Beemon]

4 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

First rule is don't let cats climb on your car.

The scratches down the hood and fenders where the cat lost its grip is what gives a car character! 

[Brandon Todd]

Cats rule!

[NTX5467]

One way to keep "intelligent" cats off a car is to keep it waxed!  Once our cats slid off the front end of our Chrysler, after coming down from the raised garage door, to the front of the top, using the windshield wiper to change direction toward the step by the kitchen door . . . .after I waxed the car (Classic carnauba wax, back then) . . . whenever I'd wash the car and wax it, as the cats watched from the shade, they learned to tread gently after they saw me doing that.  The look on their faces as they tried to turn left and just kept going sideways off the front of the hood, something they'd never experienced before.

 

NTX5467

[Brandon Todd]

Just now, NTX5467 said:

One way to keep "intelligent" cats off a car is to keep it waxed!  Once our cats slid off the front end of our Chrysler, after coming down from the raised garage door, to the front of the top, using the windshield wiper to change direction toward the step by the kitchen door . . . .after I waxed the car (Classic carnauba wax, back then) . . . whenever I'd wash the car and wax it, as the cats watched from the shade, they learned to tread gently after they saw me doing that.  The look on their faces as they tried to turn left and just kept going sideways off the front of the hood, something they'd never experienced before.

 

NTX5467

haha! thats funny. id actually like to see that! good way to teach them to stay off too!

[old-tank]

9 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

One way to keep "intelligent" cats off a car is to keep it waxed!  Once our cats slid off the front end of our Chrysler, after coming down from the raised garage door, to the front of the top, using the windshield wiper to change direction toward the step by the kitchen door . . . .after I waxed the car (Classic carnauba wax, back then) . . . whenever I'd wash the car and wax it, as the cats watched from the shade, they learned to tread gently after they saw me doing that.  The look on their faces as they tried to turn left and just kept going sideways off the front of the hood, something they'd never experienced before.

 

NTX5467

A better quality padded cover + cats is cheaper than repairing rodent damage.

[60FlatTop]

Sprinkle a little of this around the OUTSIDE of the garage. They keep it right next to the pellet guns.

 

Or try a couple eye droppers mixed in the polish.

Bernie

Edited October 4, 2016 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)