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Project '55-63 Driver


Mudbone

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23 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Thanks for giving me advice on never letting my young sons use my buick...when it's done of course:huh:.

That's why you need to have a driver. I can't say that I would have let him drive the one I am restoring! Too many hours and $$ to let it go. But that is the only way to get the young guys and gals interested in the hobby is to let them drive them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I finally had time to work on one of the Buicks today. I decided it was time to take a closer look at “One Bid” It has some warm up drivability problems. It starts and runs good, but after a few blocks the chock starts to come off and the engine will stumble when you come up to a stop sign. Once the engine temp come up it is fine. I decided to check the heat riser operation first.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_ZDNY3L-Jg

 

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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This new car is really in great shape, though probably tempting you to take a little bit more apart.  It makes a great driver until you get your other Buick on the road.  You now have thee vintage cars and a two car garage?  I suppose the newer daily drivers are left out in the cold?  What are you doing for storage?

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On ‎2‎/‎19‎/‎2017 at 7:07 PM, kgreen said:

This new car is really in great shape, though probably tempting you to take a little bit more apart.  It makes a great driver until you get your other Buick on the road.  You now have thee vintage cars and a two car garage?  I suppose the newer daily drivers are left out in the cold?  What are you doing for storage?

I just built a second attached garage last summer. But for now the late model iron sits outside.

Edited by Mudbone (see edit history)
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I have the carb all apart. One of the screws broke off in the shaft. It took about a half hour to get it out. Willie told me to tap it out and don’t look back! I had a whole bag of leftover hardware from carbs I rebuilt over the last 30 years. I had some that would start to screw in but would get tight. I found this 4-40 tap and re-taped all the holes. The new screws fit nice a snug. Now for re-assembly.

 

(New screw is on the left)

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15 hours ago, Mudbone said:

The threads look ok. Any ideas? I didn't look at the heat tube yet.

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Ok, the threads on your housing are good.  I was thinking the fitting was added as a repair (could be attached to severely stripped housing threads with JBWeld). 

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9 hours ago, old-tank said:

With all of the previous activity inside that carb, hopefully you got all the main jets in their proper place.  I have seen them mixed every way imaginable and the car ran...but not so good. 

 

 

All four low speed jets are 11/247S (The jets with the long tubes) the primary main jets are 120/160 and the secondary’s are 120/158 that is what the service manual shows. I went back and looked at my photos and Mr. Butt had them in the same locations.

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About how many turns on the adjustment screws do you go in? I've never gotten throttle response like that with either of my two 4GCs, though hopefully to be cured here pretty soon with my own WCFB. Your videos on YouTube have always been an inspiration to me, I just wish I had found them before I had someone else rebuild my engine.

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Nice plug wires Mudbone. Any chance you took a measurement of how long your new plug wires are? My engine didn't have the original plug wires, so my wires have always been either too long or just long enough... lol. Also where did you get the supplies and wire to make your own? All custom fit wires I've seen have never been stranded wire, always solid core.

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Off topic here but back in '56, an appliance salesman demonstrated a Maytag washer to mom by balancing a cigarette on top of it  while it was on spin cycle. My brother still has that washer and can still balance a cigarette on it. No baloney! 

 

Back to Buicks...

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On ‎3‎/‎9‎/‎2017 at 8:09 PM, Beemon said:

Nice plug wires Mudbone. Any chance you took a measurement of how long your new plug wires are? My engine didn't have the original plug wires, so my wires have always been either too long or just long enough... lol. Also where did you get the supplies and wire to make your own? All custom fit wires I've seen have never been stranded wire, always solid core.

 

These wire parts are available from different sources but I purchased them from the Brillman Co. (www.Brillman.com) I added one inch to #1 and #3 as after I installed them I thought they were a little short. Just be sure your distributer is in correctly. #1 should be just to the right of the vacuum advance unit. (Use these lengths at your own risk)

#1 - 36”

#2 - 37”

#3 - 30”

#4 - 31”

#5 - 28”

#6 - 26”

#7 - 26”

#8 - 23”

Coil 13”-15”

 

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Last summer on the way back from a car show it started to rain a little bit (More of a mist) I turned the wipers on and they came straight up and stayed there. I couldn’t get them to go down again either. I thought it might be important for these to work so I tried this quick fix.

 

 

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8 hours ago, Beemon said:

Hey Mudbone, I forgot to ask, but how's your radio with the Packard 440 wire?

 

The original radio does not work. Mr. Butt hung a late model am/fm under the dash. It works fine. The condenser on the ignition coil is supposed to suppress any static from the wires. But the guy next to you at a stop light may be a little upset!

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