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Assembly thread, 1942 Lincoln Zephyr Club Coupe


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The bumper, like the rest of the '47, is nasty. It will require a lot of metal finishing and a lot of copper to get rid of the pits. The bumper is heavily pitted where the additional brightwork was, but, I have to make the best of what I have. Some cars had a third over-rider. I think that would be overkill.

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I sand-blasted the whole bumper to remove the flaking chrome where it would come loose. You can see how badly pitted the metal is. Welding up holes is easy if you simply clamp a chunk of copper bar under the hole. Molten metal just pools on it so it doesn't stick. You don't need much in the way of welding skills for this kind or work.

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After 3 hours of blasting, hammering, welding and grinding I have a nice straight bumper that's ready for unplating and refinishing.

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I found a proper Butterscotch shifter knob. Need one for the turn signal. I separated the "T" part of the license plate bracket and bolted it to the cast iron base specific to the Zephyr. You won't really see it, but it won't rust like the old one.

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This was an incredible find. I was missing the clamping device for the air cleaner to carb. Used oil-bath air cleaners are all over e-bay but they ask stupid money thinking some rat-rodder will snap it up. I would have bought a whole air cleaner to get the clamp but it was missing on most offered. I've had pretty good luck sourcing some things through military surplus. Well, it turns out that the exact same part has been in use in military vehicles since the 1930s. This part was produce in January of 1985 and cost $12.50 with free delivery. Score.

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The cost of dipping the bumper into the chrome tank is the least of your worries. The plater is going to charge you a ton of dough filling in those pits with copper, grinding it down on a grease wheel, copper plating it again, etc. North of 2K I'd say.

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hello barry

try to find a keystone plating in your area,there work isnt super but should be ok for bumers,with guards id say 800-1000 should do it,if not see your local body shop and ask them who does there bumpers,most cars now days have urethane bumpers so it may take a couple of shops to find out. if you have a d.a. sander and some 150 grit paper to start with it may pay you to polish the bumper ahead of time, dave

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If you have a good relationship with your plater, you can do a lot of that yourself.... Of course, you need to know what you're doing. $2k sounds a bit steep, to me, considering that there isn't any detail to worry about. I was thinking way less than $1k, but it's been quite a while since I've seen actual numbers on replating bumpers. I know it cost $800 to replate a couple of 19-inch lock rings.

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I have a relationship with my plater. If one can prep the parts with the plater's o.k. then the price will be somewhat lower. Most plater's take a dim view of this as in painting, if the prep work is not correct, then the finished job will not be either. The cost of plating is driven by the amount of prep time necessary to get it into the nickle/chrome tanks. With a bumper that pitted I would hate to think how much time is involved. I use a plater who has done work for Jay Leno and others you have heard of so he could be over priced in some eyes, but you get what you pay for. Last year I had my wiper towers done. If I remember correctly it cost me $120.00. Their smaller than a match box. Just doing the math.

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Call Micro Plating in Romulus. Their specialty is bumpers finished to an OEM standard. They use a grey nickel for fill and bright nickel for the final inspection (both of which can be finished). By not using copper their prices are very user friendly. It won't look like something on a money's-no-object restoration but it will look really nice, perhaps no better than OEM, certainly no worse. Price? Call them and tell us but to hazard a guess I'd say in the neighborhood of $500, give or take a bit. No, I don't recall the guy's name I deal with now but you have nothing to lose taking it there and getting a feel for their work and price. Custom related chrome shops, with the expense of copper and EPA regs, I'd estimate somewhere north of $1000 and perhaps well north. You already know the pitfalls (no pun intended) of too much copper, AND it reduces the life of the part's bright work. Good luck...

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You already know the pitfalls (no pun intended) of too much copper, AND it reduces the life of the part's bright work. Good luck...

Could you tell us the pitfalls of too much copper please?

It is my understanding that plated Cu is non-porous whereas nickel and chrome are porous. Plating should last longer with copper on first than without coz there are far fewer pores for rust to get going in, assuming the copper is clean with no inclusions.

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It's not the copper itself, but the use of too much of it. It makes parts that are supposed to fit together "fat". When I did the Ruxton I learned a very valuable lesson; don't expect what you sent in to fit when it comes back. The second takeaway is to do the parts-fit as soon as you get them back.

It was literally 10:00 at night the evening the Ruxton shipped to Pebble. I could only install one of the 6 hubcaps as the hub trims were too fat. Once the car got out there someone else went through 8 grinding wheels making the opening big enough to install the cap.

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I would send the bumper and bananas at the same time (which you probably would be doing anyway), and communicate with them that you want them to fit properly before they do the final nickel plating. Perhaps even request that you'd like to see them personally fit (if you go with a local company) or perhaps have them send you a photo of them fitting snugly together. Just an idea.....

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With over plating of copper there's also a tendancy for cracks. You may not see them right away, you may make some during the build, but just like too much filler (bondo) failure comes sooner and easier. Better to make the part right by prep rather than fill. Walt is good people and will work with you on anything you send over. For general plating of regular parts they're hard to beat. They can make stuff as nice as you need it to be as well. And Barry, you're welcome as always. Keep punchin bruz...

Edited by Highlander160 (see edit history)
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Everything works. I have little left to do, except trim. Some parts need to be chromed and I need to install the windshield and rear window. The kits that came with the car has the wrong size U channel so I ordered 18 feet from Steele Rubber. Soon the car will be road-worthy. Spring can't come soon enough.

I'm waiting to hear back from a high-end upholsterer. I've saved so much buy buying a kit car that a nicely done interior would be icing on the cake.

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I've made up my mind to use Dan Kirkpatrick Interiors for the '42 Lincoln Zephyr. Dan's a Facebook friend that thought I was some big-time restorer after following the Ruxton project. I laughed. I looked at his page and drooled. Then I went to his web site and drooled in high-def.

Scotty's never been happy with the interior of the Ruxton so I recommended that he contact Dan. Dan's current commitments didn't allow him to get the Ruxton done before it shows at Amelia in March, so Scotty passed.

Dan seemed to fall in love with the Zephyr and offered to guide me through material selection and even offered to assist if I decided to do it myself. He sent samples of period-correct material in the Bedford Cord installed in the car originally. He got me thinking about the interior a good 60 days before I would have been thinking about it, and for that I'm grateful. My last, last-minute, experience with an upholsterer nearly got him hurt, badly. I have plenty of time this time, and I want it done right.

While this car will never make it to Pebble Beach (the lowly Lincoln Zephyr is the only V-12 American car not considered a Classic by the CCCA) it has a Pebble Beach paint job and the mechanical wherewithal to easily cruise the 75-mile Tour. It should have a Pebble-quality interior. The materials won't be what you see as they will be befitting the plebeian nature of a base car, it'll be the craftsmanship, the true sign of a luxury car.

I'm hoping he'll provide lots of progress pictures. Click for detail pictures.

http://www.dankirkpatrickinteriors.com/classics/

Now I just have to figure out a way to get it to Oklahoma.

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Man I wish I could get that much done in 90 days. Of course I am a one man show but still....

I love the way you guys take photos of the organization and parts when they are on the floor or in storage on the shelves. I truly think this helps a lot of us get organized more than we care to disclose ;). Helps me anyway so thanks! Great job btw.

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Are we looking at the same pictures? Ask West, I am the messiest assembler, ever. I don't bag and tag. I have to see parts or they disappear. They're only on shelves so I can see them.

As far as "you guys" is concerned, I am a one-man show. Dave is my hired gun. He double-checks what I've done, but the work's all mine. However, he is an engine savant so I left the final touches to him. He did do the stainless grill, as I wouldn't have the patience.

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Yeah bag and tag has let me down a few times.. I too like being able to see the parts which is why I commented on the photos.

A one man show??? Then double/triple kudos to you... that's impressive !

Wish I could make that kind of progress as quick... Again, very nice.

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Barry, Pebble Beach does not require that an automobile be a Full Classic, as defined by the CCCA. The Concours will be featuring customs this year. Display is by invitation. You can ask the organizers if they would like to have your Zephyr club coupe participate in a future event. The CCCA is an exclusive organization and some of their selections for Full Classic status is hard to understand, for me anyway. Enjoy watching your assembly progress. Thanks for sharing.

(o{}o)

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I never meant to imply that it had to be a full Classic to participate in Pebble. Our Mark II convertible was in the show two years ago, but they do have a bent towards the big "C" classics.

In fact, at the encouragement of one of Pebble's recruiters I did apply, as a lark, and was promptly turned down. The car may have a V-12, but it's likely too plebeian for their show field. No problem. It's their sandbox. I'm just glad I got to play two years in a row. A Trifecta would have just been icing on the cake.

Truthfully, I can understand after experiencing the field first-hand.

Thankfully, not everyone sees this car as a car but as a story, too. Some think it's pretty cool that a project no one wanted gets finished, some think the aspect of a stripper-Lincoln is interesting and some like the aspect that this was likely a Salesman's car, which would be incredibly rare that it survived.

So far this summer we have invitations to some excellent shows. We've been invited to the 100 Cars of Radnor Hunt, the Concours of America at St. John's and the Concours of Southwestern Michigan in St. Joseph. The dance card will fill without Pebble. :)

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Maybe a sales manager's car?

Likely, or a salesman for a higher-end product. When I was growing up my father got nicer cars over time. It was an outward sign of success. He taught me that business owners liked dealing with successful people, so it may have just been a sales tool for a regular guy.

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Guest joelonzello

Back in the mid 70's we found a 1947 Lincoln sitting under a pile of mattresses in a carriage house. Push button doors 12 cylinders. Great Shape painted dark green. Owner wouldn't sell. We found another a few towns over sitting in the backyard. Sunk up to running boards, no interior or doors used as as dog house ! Found yet another jammed into a small garage in Bloomfield NJ. Pretty rough with chicken wire replacing the grill....we passed !

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Today was a big day. The plan was to install the windshield and rear window, both two-person jobs. Ran into a snag. I received a replacement windshield when I bought the car. It was broken in shipment so I had one made using that as a pattern. Turned out the replacement was too big. I took the windshield out of the '47 and saw that they had simply replicated a mistake. Luckily, glass is a hobby so I just happen to have a diamond router table. It's 35 years old, but served the purpose.

The old spring clips that hold the moldings are miserable to work with and break through the paint when pushed into the holes. I've decided to use more substantial clips that can draw the moldings tight to the body without damaging the paint. The clips are scored every 16th of an inch and easily broken off at the desired length. They can help aligning trim by breaking off the tabs to different lengths.

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The base molding required 20 clips. I figure I'll need about 100 total to finish the car.

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The beltline molding hides the splice between the upper and lower body parts. There are 12 clips for just one hood spear.

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I was able to find the exact extrusion for the windshield and rear window. The material is purchased by the foot. This was clearly a fresh production run as it cut like butter.

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The extruded U-channel is 5/8" wide x 7/8" tall made for 1/4" glass. In order to make a good seam the bonding edges must be cut as cleanly as possible. You cut one edge square and start installing it on the glass. You mark the edge of the first cut and pull back the molding and continue installing the uncut side over the tape marking. Cut to the tape line and check the fit.

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Pull back both pieces of rubber and coat the flat surfaces with Krazy-glue or other similar adhesive.

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Using the glass as an alingnment jig compress the joint from both sides, hold for 10 seconds and you have a permanent bond.

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The finished windshield gasket.

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The windshield wouldn't fit after making the gasket. I compared it with the original and determined it was too big across the top.

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I brought out my diamond router/shaper and shaved the needed amount off the edge. It then fit perfectly.

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I stood back for a moment to take this in. That's a huge step forward.

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The rear window has the identical stainless-steel surround that creates a finished edge for the window opening. The rubber channel is pushed up against the stainless trim creating a tight seal. I hope.

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The rear window is an OEM replacement glass from the '50s. The box had nearly turned to dust, but the tempered glass curved window was in perfect shape. Other than trim pieces these are the last parts to go on the car.

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The engine bay is completely done. The horns sounded like squawking geese. Dave tuned them individually, so now it sounds like a nice sounding freight train.

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All that's left to do is to install the rest of the stainless trim, load the car with interior bits and ship it off to Tulsa.

Wow. What a ride.

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Barry, I've seen most of your cars and they are all really nice looking but for some reason this car to me has taken first place in your collection. Not saying I have the best taste in cars but this one sure stands out to me of the lot of them. Nice job on the assembly, maybe someday I'll get a get a chance to see it in person too. Scott...

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