Calling all trailer queen owners.......

[FLYER15015]

Yes I know the term is demeaning, but I do have a serious question.

I am starting to look for a trailer for my '40 Buick LTD, which is 19 feet and a couple of inches tip to tip.

I have been cruz'in the internet looking for a 22 foot trailer and they are not that common. They usually go from 20-24 feet in length when "enclosed" The open trailers can be had in any length you want.

Question is, do I buy an open trailer, which will just sit in the yard most of the time,and will of course expose the car to the elements while "trailering" thru the mountains.

Or do I go for an enclosed trailer, which can be used for a storage unit and free up a parking spot in the barn. Though a bit on the heavy side, this seems like a better option. The "V" nose models look nice, and may tow a bit easier. Some even have an "escape" door on the driver's side. Wonder why this is not common ?

So my question is, who makes the best (or most cost effective) trailer in your estimation ? What are some of the likes / dislikes you have with yours ? Did you buy it new or used, and what should I be looking for in either ?

Thanks for the input.

Mike in Colorado

[MCHinson]

I had a 20 foot enclosed trailer for a Model A Ford Phaeton. I no longer own the Model A or the trailer. You will need the 24 foot length for your Buick. It takes more room to tie a car down than you may realize. The 20 foot worked fine for the Model A and it was easier to get in and out of parking lots than a 24 foot trailer, but for a bigger car, you will need a 24 foot long trailer. The advantage of the closed trailer are just like you imagine that they are. The disadvantage is that the higher weight and wind resistance will cost you money in reduced fuel mileage when you are towing. I did not have an escape door on my trailer, but with the smaller width of the Model A it was not a problem. With a wider car, you would probably prefer an escape door. If you choose a used trailer, be sure that the escape door is where you need it. The location where the escape door needs to be is often different for different cars.

There was an excellent series of articles on choosing a trailer in the NC Region news a few years ago. If that had been published before I bought my trailer, I might have chosen something slightly different.

There is a great 4 part series in the NC Region News on buying a trailer (that came out after I bought my trailer). It starts in the September/October 2006 edition and continues in the next 3 issues. I suggest you read it at the following site:

http://www.newsletter.ncregionaaca.com/index.php/2006

I notice that the link to the first edition is currently broken, but the next three issues are visible now. I have emailed the NC Region Webmaster about the broken link, so he will probably get it fixed soon. The link has now been fixed so you can read all of that series.

Edited November 11, 2013 by MCHinson (see edit history)

[Don McClair]

Just a little advice that I am sure you are already aware of. With a 24 foot trailer make sure the tow vehicle is big enough to handle the job. A guy I know was towing an enclosed trailer with a 1966 Nova in it fully restored. The tow vehicle was a 1500 series Chevy short bed. They got hit by a cross wind that blew the truck and trailer into the median but the dip in the median caused truck and trailer to be totaled. Luckily he and his son were OK. Technically the Nova was was also totaled but many months later it was in once piece but in an enclosed trailer being pulled by a one ton truck with dual rear wheels.

[Bhigdog]

All excellent advice. If you are going to tow with an open trailer you might as well drive your car. That point was driven home the first time I was passed on the interstate by an uncovered gravel truck (only a broken head lamp and a few chips but it could have been a windsheild). For an enclosed you will NEED a 24'er. IMO a side door is a must. If buying new or used try putting your car in it before you plunk down bucks. But the best and most important advice is if you don't have or will get a properly sized tow vehicle don't even think about it..................Bob

[FLYER15015]

Well 50K+, for a dually, diesel, 4 door is not in the budget, till the wifey hits those 6 numbers right on Saturday night......

Mike in Colorado

[buick5563]

I just bought a used V-10 F-250 with 80k miles on it for around ten grand. It will tow anything I am ever gonna pull. Unless your trailer queen needs to be towed behind a trailer queen

[Mark Shaw]

Mike,

I agree you need a 24' enclosed trailer, but you only need a side door if you drive the car into or onto the trailer. I have seen several cars and trailers damaged in this process by burning up the clutch or not stopping in time (as we get older, this becomes more difficult). I recommend tire stops mounted to the floor in front to locate the car exactly where it needs to be. I always winch my cars into or onto my trailers.

In addition to slightly better aerodynamics, a V shaped nose on an enclosed trailer will provide more room for a winch, tie downs, etc. the box only needs to be 20' long for your car as long as you have the added room in the V front for the front tie downs. The rear tie downs will usually be directly under the rear bumper.

My $0.02

Edited November 10, 2013 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

Once you get a big (wide) car into a trailer it is hard to move around them to tie down.

It might be better to project where one would be going over the next 5 years and figure out a total cost. With figures and a proposed schedule you might be able to make a deal with a professional hauler.

A few months ago I took care of an enclosed delivery for a friend. It was an enclosed haul from Denver to the middle of nowhere in western New York for $1200. Now how many 1600 miles trips are on the docket? My math would come up with about $12,000 or so for ten 1600 mile round trip shows in the next five years, two long ones a year.

I think I'd by a modern 30 or 40 year old car instead and drive the 70 year old one to closer stuff.

It is better to have another old car that a big PIA truck and an awkward trailer.

Bernie

[Smartin]

You don't need a dually to tow a 24' box. 3/4 ton diesel would be ideal, though. Anything with a gas engine is going to get awful fuel economy...but will do the job.

[TG57Roadmaster]

Mike,

I've been very happy with a V-nose, 24-foot Diamond Cargo bought new about 4 years ago. Knowing it would be multipurpose, we ordered 10 D-rings spaced along the interior, power tongue jack (its battery also powers the winch), 4-foot jump (or escape) door, and shore power with outlet and a fluorescent fixture (over where a car's hood would be). The shore power is for when we need to use the trailer at a swap meet, trade show, or working with power tools inside. The twin axles are 7,500-lb each, it's rated at 9,999-lb GVW, and cost around $7K.

It has a plywood floor and interior, but I would opt for a vinyl floor covering if doing it again (can always add it if need be). We've carried a '56 Lincoln 'vert, late-'50's M-B 220S Cabrios, and others, and the jump door is a must. The interior wheel wells are a tad high, and in most cases, I have to crawl out of the car window to get out after driving or winching a car inside (thus the need for a jump door). Right now there's a disassembled M-B 190SL inside with its engine and sub-frame on two pallets strapped down using the 1-2-3 D-rings, and the body on a dolly using the 3 and 5 D-rings. The 190SL's set up is temporary, but the extra D-rings came in very handy. You can also get, with any brand, E-Track (or similar) that allows any variety of tie-down locations. The trailer is white, great for summer heat resistance, and the tongue jack really saves on show season sweat.

Got a super deal on a used, loaded 2005 Chevy 3500 Dually Crew Cab Diesel ($48K list, $28K 3 years old), and I've never once felt buffeting winds from 18-wheelers or Mother Nature. Even on mountain twisties you're hardly aware there's a trailer back there, and its overall stability is both outstanding and calming.

The only drawbacks are its high wheel wells, but I'm still nimble enough to go the out-the-window route. In any case, why not test the Limited's "fit" prior to purchase? The Buick's ride-height, running boards and narrower doors may clear high wheel wells, but I'd still opt for the jump door, primarily for air circulation and a not-so-claustrophobic feel. Though it's the primary vehicle, it may not hurt to configure the queen's ride for other, future purposes that may arise.

Just last week, a friend got stranded in a parking lot with his '67 Firebird, a few miles from home. I happened to be nearby and helped him get the 'Bird aboard his 24-foot Featherlite. Its all-aluminum interior and floor was alluring, and the low wheel wells allowed better door clearance, but I still had to crawl out of the window (jump door!) because of the car's wide doors. I didn't even ask what the trailer cost, as it would have been beyond our budget. But, boy, was it nice!

When you get your trailer, add this to your equipment list. Got to use it this summer when we had a blowout and change to the spare with a Lincoln on board.

Anyway, hope this helps. Everyone's needs and budgets are different but, at this point in life, I wanted versatility, comfort and confidence in a rig...and haven't been disappointed.

Good luck on your trailer-quest,

TG

Edited November 11, 2013 by TG57Roadmaster (see edit history)

[Guest bueeek]

Mike, Look up Tommy Trailers out of Ida Ok. they make custom alum. trailers that are outstanding! I've got a 25' er open dual axel that I can push around by myself. They make enclosed that are very light weight. Or you could have them put a fiber glass dam on the front. Check them out.

[60FlatTop]

This is not a trailer but it is a great way to get a car around in style. Also a rare sight:

I sold that car a few years ago. It would have been a nice mate for the Riviera, but the previous owner had sanded the gelcoat off most of the car and let the rest weather off. The truck was a well maintained furniture van, nice rig.

Bernie

[FLYER15015]

Bernie,

NOW THAT IS COOL !!!!!!!!!!!!!

It would be a shame to take the car down for the shows.

Mike in Colorado

[Thriller]

My cars aren't beautiful enough to call queens, but I did deem that an enclosed hauler was useful.

I have a 22' H&H. Now, they are available in 2' increments - I effectively ordered mine in 2008, so got what I thought I needed. It has a dove tail and e-track, which are both very nice features. I installed an electric winch, so loading and unloading is generally pain-free. When looking, the salesman asked if I wanted the "show car door". I didn't understand the use for it at the time (generally very few enclosed trailers in this part of the world, so I had no experience with it), so said no. That is the only decision I regret about the unit. At the time, I paid about $13k...of course, that is coming across the 49th parallel and associate extras our quasi-socialist governments like to add. It has 6000 lb axles, but is officially rated at a 10,000 lb GVW - heavier trailers are deemed commercial and require regular inspections. I think there is just one car (1962 Special?) that I've had in there with difficulty of the doors clearing the wheel wells.

This trailer has been from Winnipeg to Colorado Springs and to Ames, Iowa for BCA meets. I've also used it a fair bit locally.

I tow with a diesel GMC Sierra 2500HD and load-levelling hitch. It pulls very nicely. It does bring the truck's economy down a bit, but based just on fuel prices, driving the truck and trailer isn't much different than driving an old Buick. The difference is that we get a more modern, comfortable interior.

Good luck on coming to your decision.

[FLYER15015]

Bueek,

I looked up "Tommy's" and I would love to go for the all aluminium enclosed version, but 26K for a trailer is way over my budget.

Mike in Colorado

[NCReatta]

Most of my towing is open. Single car.

My trailer with a Reatta is about 5500 pounds. My 2001 3/4 ton V10 Dodge pulls it effortlessly.

I average 10 mpg no matter what. Loaded, unloaded, highway, around town. All 10.

I prefer the Dodge 8.0 liter V10 to the Ford 6.7. The Dodge puts out about 450 pound feet of torque. Which is close to Diesel territory.

Diesels get decent fuel economy, but if you look at the fact that diesel fuel is at LEAST 70 cents more expensive per gallon, plus next time your turbo goes out, an injector (or two or three) gets clogged, or you get some bad gas, you're out $2k.

I'm willing to sacrifice my fuel economy for cheap gas (I paid $3.04 at my last fill up), cheap repairs, and reliability.

As far as a trailer goes, 24 foot is the way to go. More space is better.

Depending on your budget, you may want to look into a 5th wheel trailer. They're easy to maneuver , and much safer in my opinion. But you'll be looking at a longer trailer too.

Good luck!

[chuckfmtexas]

When my 1932 67S Buick was finally restored I realized to protect it while travelling I needed an enclosed trailer. I did a lot of research on a lot of brands and decided Pace American was the quality level I wanted. I lucked out and found a 2008new one at a dealer who was hurting for cash and I bought it in January 2009 $4000 under the 2009 price. It is one of their models used by guys that race so it has cabinets in the front, a generator space in the front, extra 6" in clear height space, and fully finished inside with aluminum, vinyl floor, lights, etc. I had the "escape" door added by Pace because I do drive the car in the trailer and it is great for getting out of the car and not damaging the paint. Pace went under during the economy downturn but I understand the original owners have restarted the company.

We have towed the 32 Buick in the trailer all over the country and made all BCA National meets since 2009 plus a lot of AACA meets and a few Concours de elegance affairs. We tow with a F250 super duty Ford diesel crew cab and it is great for pulling the almost 10,000# load. I would recommed no less than the 24" length and the V nose is a bonus I wish I had.

Chuck Nixon

[Mark Shaw]

A great set up Chuck. I look forward to seeing you again in Portland this summer..;

Maybe on the PWD AfterTour?

[Marty Roth]

You have received some great advice. I gave this same recap on another site earlier today:

I custom-designed my trailer, had it built by Forest River in Elkhart, Indiana, and ordered through Trailerworld in Bowling Green, Kentucky.

Mine is a 24ft box plus a wedge and tapered nose which gives me all the room in the world to walk around front and rear to set, and to re-check my tie-downs. The extra space allows me to carry tools, parts, luggage, floor jack, jack stands, creeper, extra cardboard to lie on when I have to get out and get under. I have multiple sets of tie-down locations, allowing for multiple lengths of cars and varying weight distributions. The overall length is 30ft-6in. The ramp is extra heavy-duty and has a hinged flip-over extension, and there is a hinged flap to smooth the transition between the ramp-door and the floor. There is also a 4 foot beaver-tail.

I had it built extra tall so I would not have to stop in a downpour to lower the top on my early Brass-Era cars, and would not have to leave any top folded for an extended period of time.

My trailer is ALL ALUMINUM. In my part of the country a wooden floor will rot (My old trailer had a steel diamond deckplate floor). It is built with a pair of 6,000 lb axles, 8-lug aluminum wheels. and Load Range-E tires. The floor is built higher than standard so that the wheel boxes are only 5 inches high so that the doors of even the 1950s and 1960s cars can open over the wheel boxes, allowing easier entry and exit. Additionally, I have a Driver-side access door made extra long, and opening as an awning-style, so any of my cars can open the driver's door, and I have a folding step-rack which hangs on a left-side trailer tire to allow me to step out of the car and step down to the ground, or climb up easily (also helps when checking the tow-vehicle's engine compartment).

I have a pair of side-vents which are reversible, and also Air-Maxx boxes over the roof vents (I did not order roof vents - it was a manufacturer error).

I have 4 lights in the ceiling, Multiple sets of LED lights in the floor so tie-down in the dark is a piece of cake, and also have multiple sets of lights in the lower walls.

The battery is inside in the front point of the box, right in front of the WINCH, and also operates the ELECTRIC TONGUE JACK (with remote), both of which are also important additions. Also have at least one (preferably 2) mounts built onto the front inside walls for your spare tires. The second spare means that when a tire does go (and it will at the least opportune time and location), you don't have to go shopping for a replacement on a Sunday morning a hundred miles from a good shop.

Remember to get a good Load-Leveling hitch which will make your ride smoother, safer, and more comfortable, eliminating the "bump-bump-bump" of trailering.

Good luck with your decision.

[buick5563]

I want Marty's rig

[Smartin]

Me too! But I don't want to pay for it...sounds like a really killer setup, though.

[Marty Roth]

Thanks guys, yes, our trailer handles everything from our 1914 Buick B-37 Touring with top-up to our 1970 Cadillac convertible, and will even accept our 2500 Series Suburbans and 4wd F*rd Excursion 7.3L Turbo-Diesel inside, incase a tow vehicle needs to be towed (sometime in the past millions of miles it has happened).

It also doubles as a garage!

[FLYER15015]

Marty,

You have described, almost to a "T" what I am looking for. Only thing in the way is $$$$$$$$$$.

So what do you pull this rolling palace with ?

You mentioned a F*rd Excursion.

Lots of the local folks 'round here recommend a 4 door dually (Silverado or F-250 at least).

And yes the hitch equalizers are a must.

We will be motoring to Fla come spring, and plan to stop at a couple of trailer mfg co's along the way. Just to look.

Meanwhile I am cruz'n the internet for a good used unit.

Mike in Colorado

[chuckfmtexas]

Hi Mark, it seems Dianne and I will not be bringing the 32 to Oregon due to the distance and the mountains, BUT we have choices. In a weak moment we bought an Senior Gold 1989 Reatta with 22K on it in SouthBend the Sunday morning after the BCA meet. Since I had sent the 32 from Southbend to CT by separate transport for some tweaking before Hershey, I could not come back to Texas with an empty trailer! Also have my eye on a 1967 GS 400 that I think I need for daily trips here and there. I am selling my two 1973 Rivieras to make room for the GS 400.

We thought a fun trip to Oregon in the Reatta makes sense.

Chuck

[Mark Shaw]

Chuck,

You can still participate in the PWD AfterTour.... We usually line up in chronological order, so you may have to run near the back of the line....

[Larry Schramm]

One other item that I might have missed in the discussion was to be sure you have brakes on both axles. I have seen some trailers that have brakes on only one axle. I just believe that you can not have enough braking power on a trailer.

[Marty Roth]

Mike in Colorado,

Since my trailer (described above) is All-Aluminum, the weight is only about 3400 lb, plus the stuff I carry. My 2002 8.1L Suburban pulls it easily, as does my 7.3L Excursion Turbo-Diesel. I prefer the SUV instead of a pickup because I like to keep everything inside the truck, but can also load things in the trailer ahead of the car(s). I know that a 1-Ton Dualie seems to be a favorite, but some seem to lack traction, and ride hard when not trailering. My SUVs can double as a Family Truckster and a Grocery Getter, and are a must when the kids' daily rides are in for repairs.---And also have that 8-passenger capability when a 3rd or 4th couple are along.

I bought mine new about 4-5 years ago, but probably only ran about $17-18K, and doubles as a rolling garage.

Edited December 19, 2013 by Marty Roth (see edit history)

[FLYER15015]

Marty,

I think you have it right.

I had been looking at Ford and Dodge dualie's for stability, but then the question becomes, what to do with it between "tows" ?

Did you know that there is a company in California that makes a "kit" to temporarily add duals to a Ford Excursion. Outside wheels, a spacer for the axle and fender wells that snap on, complete with clearance lights. Now that would be TRICK !!!

Do you use a "load leveling" hitch, or any anti sway attachment ?

I did find a Ford F-350 VAN body on a real frame with duals, but it was a 1978, and she had LOTS of miles. Kind of cool though.

There are several trailer manufacturers in central Georgia, and we will check them out this spring. A "V" nose is definitely in the picture, but the aluminium versions may be out of reach, $$$$$ wise.

Mike in Colorado

PS; OH GOLLY, I just noticed, this is my 999th post. Better save the next one for something very important........

Edited November 30, 2013 by FLYER15015 (see edit history)

[Johnny Buick]

Hello Everyone

I would like to know if it is possible to rent an enclosed in the mid west. I live in Sioux Falls and would like to take a car to the national BCA meeting next July, (2014). Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have a GMC Sierra 2500 and it will tow it OK.

Thanks

John

[Marty Roth]

Mike in Colorado, - Congrats on approaching your 1,000th post !!

I always use a Load-Leveler Hitch, and once bought an anti-sway attachment but found it totally not necessary.

SWAY:

I always am careful to load my trailer so that AT LEAST 60% OR MORE of the weight is forward of the axle(s) center-line, and sway is eliminated. As soon as I get out on the open road, and away from other traffic, I do a couple of "quick" lane changes, progressively simulating an evasive action to ensure that the trailer will not "Fish-Tail" or cause me to lose control.

LOAD-LEVELER HITCH:

Absolutely!! This eliminates the up-and-down bumping, smoothing out the ride, so that now the rig rides as if it has a 30-foot wheelbase and you float down the worst roads without losing teeth, without the headlights pointing to the sky, and with predictable and far safer handling.

I would not consider a van - yes, I know that some like them, but my personal experience tells me otherwise - just ask David (Trimacar). He used one for years, and then got a 1986 3/4 ton Suburban 454/400 (which I now have, and could be convinced to part with), and then another with the same equipment which I should have bought from him, and now another one just like my 2002 (I mistakenly called it a 2000, but my newest is a 2002 2500 Series 8.1L).

Email me anytime.

[Guest jmorrisn699a]

First trip to Yellowstone .

Built to fit wife's Expedition and my 4 Wheeler for hunting