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The Ressurection of Daphne - a 1932 DL


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No, we made the car noises at the upholstery shop.

 

On the wiring, I wonder if they had a small mold they poured the hot solder in and then dipped the exposed wire into it while it was still liquid.  There must have been a simple and quick way to produce these things at the factory.

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37 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

No, we made the car noises at the upholstery shop.

 

On the wiring, I wonder if they had a small mold they poured the hot solder in and then dipped the exposed wire into it while it was still liquid.  There must have been a simple and quick way to produce these things at the factory.

That is exactly what I was thinking and what it looks like to me.

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I think you can buy those socket pig tails from the restoration supply outfits, often including the socket.

 

Think of the pictures and video you have seen in electronics assembly shops. With the right jig, the soldering iron at the correct temperature, clean parts, the right size and type of solder, soldering is almost instant. I am sure that is how it was done by the factory.

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1 hour ago, Johnthistle said:

My '31 DH had identical sockets in similar shape. I found perfect replacement sockets a couple years ago from some headlight man. I may be able to find the source but I have to go out to the shop(1/2 hour drive) and have a look. 

 

 Just the next time you get to the shop would be fine.  If he's still around it would save me some time.

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Hmmm, looks like they changed things by 32.  No copper tube on my setup.  Since the wires run through the springs on my socket, I would be worried if there was no insulation right up to the contact end.  I'm thinking of making a reverse mold in hi-temp silicon, chopping up some electrical solder into tiny pieces and putting it into the depression, heating it up with a torch and dipping the end of the wire into the solder.

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I redid a couple sets . The contact is metal as shown , like a tack . Skin wire back slide piece heat shrink back . Solder and advance shrink . Be sure to allow for going thur fibre washer and spring and shell . Will look to see if have pics . Use automotive wire on redo , original was rubber . Building wire is usually  multi-layer coating .

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Well, problem solved.  As usual, my wife said, "Let me see that!" after listening to me grouse about the problem for an hour.  She carefully unwound the wire (individual strands, not solid) and discovered the tip was actually a domed tack similar to the one in frank29u's photo.  We still couldn't get the wires off the tack, but we could see the ends did not extend into the dome.  So, they weren't molded in.  I took the tack out to the garage, clamped it in the vise, hit it with a less than one second blast from my MAP torch and the wires just fell away.  So, I'm thinking the pointed end of the tack was covered with a light coat of solder and then jammed into the end of the wire.  You learn something every day.

 

Behold the offending part.

 

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My '31 DH socket replacement fit perfectly and was made by Cole Hersee Co, #2106.  It replaced the steel socket & spring and circumvented the soldered "tack" problem. I thought it was very slick. Invisible from the outside. I don't see it in their web site but they or someone can probably come up with a #2106. 

I know a guy who has a box full of headlight sockets from the 20s & 30s but ? Might not solve wire contact challenge.   John

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Could not find pics . I remember using a steel plate that I drilled a dimple in to match tack cup end . Then heated from bottom and preloaded cup with solder . Also skinned 1/8" insulation off wire, pushed cold tack in to open path, added rosin .  Pushed over heated cap with solder in it . Covered 1/8" with shrink which probable did not need .

   The Filling Station also sells new made units .

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I’m organizing my remaining parts for final assembly this Spring.  My wife and I gathered everything, boxed and labeled each part down to the last nut and bolt.  We are about 2/3 of the way through and should finish up this coming week.  I’m worried about several parts that don’t seem to be turning up so I’m asking in advance in case anyone can help me out.  I’m missing one door latch striker and one of the headlight sockets for a headlight.  This is the socket that plugs into the bottom of the headlight from the outside with the flexible wire conduit attached.  l’ll post photos and dimensions tomorrow.  I was relieved to find most everything else was safe and sound after five years and a move to a new house.

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  • 3 months later...

Man, I just noticed my thread had slipped back to page five.  I’ve been neglecting Daphne mainly due to continuing problems with my knee, but I need to get back to work on her as soon as possible.  I didn’t want folks who had been patiently following my progress to think I had given up.  I am determined to drive her around the block this summer, no matter what.

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  • 1 month later...

Boy, getting old is a pain!  My knee finally gave up the ghost.  Currently, I am unable to walk more than ten feet.  Kneeling or work on Daphne is completely impossible.  I’m having knee replacement surgery July 16th.  Hopefully, the recovery will be speedy and I can get back to work on my car early this fall.  It’s very discouraging, but part of life, I guess.  In the meantime, I’m going to try and finally do the headlight wiring since I can sit down doing it while my ever patient wife brings me the parts and tools needed.  Talk about feeling absolutely helpless.

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4 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

Boy, getting old is a pain!  My knee finally gave up the ghost.  Currently, I am unable to walk more than ten feet.  Kneeling or work on Daphne is completely impossible.  I’m having knee replacement surgery July 16th.  Hopefully, the recovery will be speedy and I can get back to work on my car early this fall.  It’s very discouraging, but part of life, I guess.  In the meantime, I’m going to try and finally do the headlight wiring since I can sit down doing it while my ever patient wife brings me the parts and tools needed.  Talk about feeling absolutely helpless.

man, Wish I was close enough to come help you with the project. I feel your pain with the knee problems. I am 37 and have had both knee's pop out a couple times each. 

 

get better and do what you can to keep busy man. good luck. 

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On 8/25/2013 at 9:32 PM, 34dodger said:

Finally had time to take a few pics of what your tailpipe bracket should look like. This from a '32 DK. I had this revulcanized by Antique Auto Parts Cellar, who does excellent work. Looks like you're missing the u-shaped inner plate with the 2 studs that's part of the vulcanized assembly, which the tailpipe bracket bolts to, as well as the tailpipe bracket.

Love the work and documentation you're doing!

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I think I have one of those brackets wondered what it went to,

 

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I hope your surgery goes well. I am reminded of one of my hiking friends. He is in his mid 80s and had both knees done around age 60. He was promised 30 million movements and continued to walk everywhere, including in the mountains. He must be well past that number but keeps on going. He has retired from our hiking, but still walks an hour every day with his wife. Kia kaha! be strong, keep going, get stuck in, as our Māori people say. (pronounced keea kaha with short "a"s).

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hope your surgery goes to plan. I've started back on my car after a 6 week overseas holiday. Tackling the front window frame linings for the glass. Fun Job.

Your progress looks as though it will be finished soon. How far off do you think ?

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Well, the news just keeps getting worse.  The day before the scheduled operation the hospital calls and says it’s a no-go as my electrocardiograph came back with irregularities.  Now I have to go in for tests on August 7th.  Very discouraging.  I’d love to be talking restoration  rather than medical problems, but I have no choice at the moment.  I’m hoping to finish Daphne before I take the big dirt nap.

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  • 1 month later...

Thanks for asking, Ian.  The day before I was to have the surgery, the hospital called and said they wouldn’t do the operation due to irregularities in my EKG - which I was required to have in advance.  This has resulted in over a month of tests which ended up concluding my heart was okay considering my age.  Now the surgery is scheduled for October first.  It’s been a depressing and wasted summer, with little work being accomplished.

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Best to make sure before the op. I thought I'd post a lot of bits while you were laid up to take the pressure off you !! Looking back I guess I needed a break from the car but now I jumped back in to a point where I've finally booked her in for the Upholsterers. Madly trying to get her to a point where its ready for them....front windows are testing me.

My thread is being bounced all over the forums as there has been a bit of a glitch as they've lost all the first lot of my posts and photos but they are trying to sort that out.

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I have been away checking here very seldom. Been on the road moving cars across country. What is going on with your knees? i also tore the Meniscus in my left knee. Know my right knee is giving me problems. I guess all the years from jumping out of airplanes, tow trucks, car haulers and being a mechanic. Doc says knee replacement. I'm looking into Stem Cell procedure. Still driving the truck but being very careful not to make sudden moves. I will be following your progress with your knees and car. If I can, I'm going to be on the road for another 2 years then look into what action to take with my knees. Then ill deal with that issue and will be doing a restoration on our 34 dodge tow truck and working on buying a 39 Ply 4 dr convertible that really does not need restoration. Its a beautiful CA rust free car that has never been messed with.

 

GOOD LUCK WITH EVERYTHING!!!

 

DAVE

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On 6/24/2019 at 11:01 AM, knobless said:

I think I have one of those brackets wondered what it went to,

 

I have a few of those, never knew what they fit, mine need the rubber but are in good shape, how much was the rubber done by then and Now? Just had them do my mounts for 34 Dodge

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  • 4 weeks later...

I finally got up the nerve to tackle the last mechanical part that needs restoring - the ever popular Gemmer steering box.  It came apart fairly easily - the twp parts were really stuck together after eighty years, but I got them apart with the use of a makeshift puller I made up from a piece of hardwood and a couple of bolts.  All that being said, I know next to nothing about these units so any help would be appreciated.  The parts cleaned up pretty well thanks to my local auto repair shop graciously allowing me to use their hot solvent washer (one of the perks of living in a small town.)  After a bit of wire brush work, the pieces cleaned up very well.  The other half was still soaking in some solvent to get the last of the thick grease inside when I took these photos.

 

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To my eye, the worm gear looked pretty good.  But, as I said, I'm certainly no expert.  What do you guys think?

 

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As you may have noticed, the worm gear slipped down the steering shaft during removal.  At the moment, I can't get it back up to where it belongs.  I'm assuming it should be even with the keyway at both ends.  I don't want to beat on it.  Will I have to find someone with an hydraulic press to get it back into position?

 

This is my biggest worry.  There is obvious wear to the pinion gear (not sure of the correct term) where it meshes with the worm gear.  I don't know what is acceptable in these cases, but there is certainly some damage.  I don't plan to drive the car to California twice a year, so maybe this isn't as bad as I thought, but it was disappointing to see.

 

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I'll post some pictures of the bearings once I get them cleaned up.  From what I understand, they are no longer available, so I hope they are still okay.

 

This was the messiest, greasiest job on the entire car, by far.

 

 

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Looking at some other posts on the Gemmer, I'm now not sure i did move the worm gear on the shaft after all.  I guess all I can do it do a reassembly after everything is cleaned up and see if the top of the steering shaft lines up with the outer steering column.  I can probably do it with out replacing the top bearing and race to make it easier.

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Unless you can find some replacement parts, you are stuck with what you have. Have the sector shaft ground if it is not round and replace the brass or bronze bushes to a very close tolerance. Any lateral movement in the shaft will be reflected in play at the steering wheel rim.

 

The worm may be in the right place. Is there any sign of it having been further up the shaft? They are a press fit on the shaft. Unless you used a lot of force, it should not have moved.

 

The bearings in my DC were the originals. I managed to get new cups but nothing else. I just reused the old bearings, which were in very good condition. They don't seem to wear much.

 

I had an O-ring put in at the spline end of the shaft bush - there was no oil retainer in there originally.

 

Once rebushed etc., reassemble and adjust. That is as good as it gets. You can't really tell the amount of play at the steering wheel unless you have a load on the Pitman arm = steering arm = drop arm to hold it in position while you wiggle the wheel back and forth. Remember to use an NLGI 00 semi-fluid grease for lubrication. If you use "chassis" grease = NLGI 2, it will be wiped off he worm in a few turns and it won't flow back, leaving no lubrication.

 

Metal spray and so on cannot be used to build up the sector or worm because they will soon peel off. The action of sector on worm is a high pressure shear, which will peel off any surface addition.

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