Taylormade Posted June 5, 2018 Author Share Posted June 5, 2018 (edited) I’m not sure if the 33 Floating Power setup is the same as my 32 - for your sake I hope not. There is a photo of the rear of my transmission (actually the free wheeling extension of the tranny) on page 52 of this thread. Are you calling the rubber Floating Power mount a bushing? If that is the case my rear rubber mount is attached to the free wheeling case by four bolts, two on each side, and attached to the removable frame cross member by two bolts. The only way to get it off is to remove the transmission by unbolting the bolts on the bellhousing and the four bolts that hold on the cross member. Be sure to support the rear of the engine at the bellhousing so that you don’t crush the rubber pad on the removable cross support. There are detailed photos of all this earlier in this thread. If you could post a shot or two of your transmission, I can tell you if you have the same setup. My my car has only one rubber support at the rear of the transmission.. Then and Now Automotive can revulcanize your mounts. They did all three of mine. This is also discussed and illustrated earlier in this thread. Edited June 5, 2018 by Taylormade (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 My sealing washers arrived and I installed one on the shaft clamp bolt on my transmission. Since I can fill the transmission without reinstalling the freewheeling extension, I filled the transmission case and moved on to other projects. I’ll see if any leaks develope over the next few weeks. If all goes well, I’ll put everything back together - hopefully for the final time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 (edited) https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Earls-178005ERL-Stat-O-Seal-5-16-Inch-Diameter-Set-of-2,142371.html Geez, I copied this up a couple of weeks ago. But forgot to hit submit. I may have mentioned before, My age is making me simple. Edited June 17, 2018 by JACK M (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted June 17, 2018 Author Share Posted June 17, 2018 Thanks, Jack. Been there, done that. No leaks so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted June 19, 2018 Author Share Posted June 19, 2018 As I'm repairing my transmission leak, crawling under the car, I noticed many of the bare metal parts I had painted clear were rusty as all get out. Either i forgot to paint some of this stuff, or the paint did a crummy job of protecting things. Take the freewheeling lever, for instance. This was shiny and bright last fall. So I painted it and many other small parts around the transmission. Maybe not totally original, but pretty maintenance free. I also got my headlight reflectors back from the re-silvering company. They look good, but are really hard to photograph. Nothing leaking from the tranny, so far. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 On 6/4/2018 at 5:58 PM, Sactownog said: CAN YOU TELL ME, how many transmission mount bushings are there? I have a 33 and only see one bushing under the tail of my transmission. I can not seem to find a replacement bushing and it seems there is only 1 bushing, can someone advise on if there are more I am not seeing? Not sure if the 33 is the same as a 32, but I'm sure they're similar. Here is a diagram of how the system works - The front mount is two pieces of steel with a vulcanized rubber center (right red circle.) The mount sits up high on a stamped steel support bolted to the frame. The center rubber mount (the rectangular object) is a simple block of rubber vulcanized to a steel plate that bolts onto the cross-member (visible under it.) This cross-member is removable and has to come off to remove the oil pan. The bellhousing simply rests on the block and is not attached to it. The rear mount (left red circle) bolts to the transmission through the four holes up top, and to a removable cross support with nuts and bolts through the bottom two holes. If the rubber mounts have deteriorated, you may have transmission problems if the motor is flopping all over the place. Note the end of a spring, just visible behind the center rubber block. This attaches between the bell-housing and the frame and keeps the motor from torquing too far on the rubber mounts. The front mount before and after: The center pad before and after: And the rear mount before and after: I hope this makes things a bit clearer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted June 26, 2018 Author Share Posted June 26, 2018 This may be a better diagram. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted July 20, 2018 Author Share Posted July 20, 2018 I finally got everything back together again. So far, no leaks, but I'm done if something reappears. The final solution - a large pan under the car. Just taking the free-wheeling unit off made the job much easier, but it was still a pain with the body on the frame. New gaskets, paint on the fasteners and some retouching on the paint and she's ready to go. Spent the morning cutting and buffing the dash, getting ready to get the instruments back in. Now that the trans is back in and the motor, transmission is properly supported, I can finally attempt to start the motor for the first time. I think I mentioned I was going to do that about 8 months ago, but it proved to be another flight a fancy, with winter and a knee operation getting in the way. Hopefully it will happen within the next two weeks. Trans before and after... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 EXCELLENT news! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 I can identify with your pain. I too dislike the oil drips. I use cardboard boxes, big ones - TV, fridge, washing machine, PV panel, whatever - they soak up the oil ... and when one is dirty, fire works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 Filled the radiator today, seeing if any leaks develop before the first startup. I looked around for the classic green AIT formula and discovered that the local NAPA had about 15 cases of the stuff sitting on the floor against the back wall. They said they stock it for local farmers. The container proudly displays “SAFE FOR ALL CARS MANUFACTURED BEFORE 1988.” Mixed it with distilled water. Now, I just have to get the coil hooked up and she’ll be ready to fire. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 The BEST of luck to you and your car's first startup. I will be holding my breath. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knobless Posted July 31, 2018 Share Posted July 31, 2018 On 6/4/2018 at 6:58 PM, Sactownog said: CAN YOU TELL ME, how many transmission mount bushings are there? I have a 33 and only see one bushing under the tail of my transmission. I can not seem to find a replacement bushing and it seems there is only 1 bushing, can someone advise on if there are more I am not seeing? Does it look like this 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 (edited) I'm starting to think my car may be better suited to a museum rather than driving it on the road. I filled up the radiator the other day and came out to the garage this morning to discover water on the garage floor. At first I thought the lower radiator hose clamps weren't tight enough, so I tightened them up and wiped all the excess water away. That's when I discovered it wasn't a leaky hose connection, but a problem with the radiator itself. My old radiator was toast and I found a good one (I thought) at Hershey. When I got it home, I took it to a radiator shop and had it cleaned and checked. They said everything was A-Okay. It turns out everything isn't A-Okay and the water is coming from a pinhole in the lower radiator fitting connection. You can see it in the photo below. If you wide it away, the tiny bubble forms within a few seconds Naturally, I have the radiator on the car, with the shell attached, hoses attached - the works. I am assuming that some sort of solder repair is the fix for this situation, but I'm no expert. If soldering would fix it, I'm trying to figure out if it could be done with the radiator in place. I'd obviously have to remove the hoses and put some sort of heat shield around the fitting so I don't un-solder it from the radiator, but there is enough room to work on it. Another option might be JB Weld, but I'm not sure if it would work in this situation. If I cleaned the area thoroughly, made sure it was completely dry, and covered it with the JB do you think it would hold? We are talking about hot water here. The good news is that this isn't a pressurized system, so there won't be that much stress on the repair. Any thoughts appreciated. Edited August 1, 2018 by Taylormade (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 20 hours ago, knobless said: Does it look like this yes it does look just like that, I plan to have mine re-vulcanized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnthistle Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Oh man, if it isn't one thing it's another! A quick fix might be the old "stop leak" stuff. As I recall it's a bit like paper mache. It might affect cooling capacity(?) but probably not much. No doubt there would be arguments against it but it was used and this is a tiny leak. Good luck! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 18 minutes ago, Taylormade said: I'm starting to think my car may be better suited to a museum rather than driving it on the road. I filled up the radiator the other day and came out to the garage this morning to discover water on the garage floor. At first I thought the lower radiator hose clamps weren't tight enough, so I tightened them up and wiped all the excess water away. That's when I discovered it wasn't a leaky hose connection, but a problem with the radiator itself. My old radiator was toast and I found a good one (I thought) at Hershey. When I got it home, I took it to a radiator shop and had it cleaned and checked. They said everything was A-Okay. It turns out everything isn't A-Okay and the water is coming from a pinhole in the lower radiator fitting connection. You can see it in the photo below. If you wide it away, the tiny bubble forms within a few seconds Naturally, I have the radiator on the car, with the shell attached, hoses attached - the works. I am assuming that some sort of solder repair is the fix for this situation, but I'm no expert. If soldering would fix it, I'm trying to figure out if it could be done with the radiator in place. I'd obviously have to remove the hoses and put some sort of heat shield around the fitting so I don't un-solder it from the radiator, but there is enough room to work on it. Another option might be JB Weld, but I'm not sure if it would work in this situation. If I cleaned the area thoroughly, made sure it was completely dry, and covered it with the JB do you think it would hold? We are talking about hot water here. The good news is that this isn't a pressurized system, so there won't be that much stress on the repair. Any thoughts appreciated. I would contact the radiator shop and see what they have to say. Considering they checked out the rad and gave it the O.K. I would expect them to fix it for free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 I agree, but I have moved since then and would really like to avoid taking the entire front of the car off to get the radiator out so I could take it to them. They are now 100 miles away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Having just been through a radiator job, I feel your pain. But I am afraid the only good job here is one by a radiator shop. You might like to take the old radiator along; the bottom fitting might not be so corroded on that one. A cheap fix might be to put a self tapping screw in the hole with a rubber washer under it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 I must preface this comment by stating that I am yet to put water in my DA radiator. However, a couple of years ago I had my radiator dismantled cleaned by a radiator specialist near here. He came recommended as someone familiar with working on old radiators. When I picked it up, he commented on it being pretty good, but also said that because of its age, there may be a weep or two when in use. He recommended NOT to use any standard additive, only distilled water plus soluble oil like we used to do before additives were available. This also meant (and he advised to do this) that you could use "Silver Seal Radiator Sealant" if there were any leaks. As I said, I have not yet done this for the DA, but I have used this product (and also a very similar Gold product which I cannot get here anymore) for a number of years with great success in a number of vehicles, most recently in my old tractor. It is a small file of what looks like silver metal filings that you add to the water. I have never had any luck with the cans of liquid stuff (Bars Leaks) but this stuff works great and in fact is stocked by at least a couple of radiator repairers that I know of, but is sometimes hard to get at other places around here. I now always carry some in my 4X4 and historic vehicle in case of mishaps. I think it may cause reaction with some additives, that is why only water and soluble oil was recommended. Google it and have a look. Good luck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeke01 Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 My experience has been that "stop leak" additives don't work well in non-pressurized coolant systems. Stop leak needs pressure to force treated coolant out the hole until the hole seals. Zeke 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 My tractor is not pressurised and the additive works great, in fact it is the only type that I have ever used successfully. I last used it in a mate's car that blew out a welsh plug (300 Km from home). We plugged it with a piece of wood then used Silver Seal to seal it. We left the radiator cap not done up tight so that there was no pressure to blow out the piece of wood. It lasted some months that way before he got around to fixing it properly. Silver Seal must be added when engine at running temperature and the engine kept running for some time. I have always been reluctant to use such additives if I can avoid it, and if I it was in a modern vehicle that I could fix properly, I would and have always done so. But my previous experience with this stuff means that I will not hesitate to use it in the DA when the time comes. But each to his own, of course. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnthistle Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 My son has soldered radiators in place using just a propane torch, keeping from heating too much & affecting solder elsewhere in the radiator. He says: drain the radiator, of course, clean the leak with steel wool, use flux and solder it. He has used the sliver seal which works ok but the solder is a more reliable perminant fix. I think you said the leak was reachable in place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I would not be afraid of the Barsleak. I have used it successfully. I am told that GM supplies some leak proofing with every one of their Target Master replacement engines. Follow the instructions. I am sure that you are supposed to run the engine at temperature at least after the application. Don't start the engine without at least water in it as you may damage the water pump. By the way, I have repaired radiators on the race cars with a hot glue gun. Usually aluminum radiators. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 (edited) Well, I had a come to Jesus moment with the guys down at the local auto parts store, small town America, where everyone has an opinion - including three customers, two countermen, both who worked in radiator shops in the past, and the owner. Unanimous conclusion - take the radiator out and have it repaired correctly. So I’m off to Effingham, Illinois, a sixty mile trip one way, to the only radiator shop in the area that still works on old radiators. They come highly recommended, so fingers crossed. First I have to take the hood bracing off, take the radiator and shell off the car without chipping my newly painted fenders, remove the radiator shell without scratching the new chrome, load the radiator into the SUV, and head out on yet another road trip. It is really frustrating to have to disassemble and reassemble something you thought was ready to go. But I want to drive this car - to the Springfield, Missouri National Meet next year - so it needs to be dependable. Now, pardon me while I throw up. Edited August 3, 2018 by Taylormade (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Hang in there. I know how very frustrating it can get. Just when you thought it was all under control.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 Radiator out, shell stripped off, ready to take a shower and head to the radiator shop. No damage, no problems, lots of sweat and skinned knuckles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I feel the pain. How easy is it to get the radiator in the shell? I got the radiator shop to put mine in - it was a tight fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bullfrog_eng Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I too feel your pain. At the end of the day, the solution that you are confident with is always the right choice. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 3 hours ago, Spinneyhill said: I feel the pain. How easy is it to get the radiator in the shell? I got the radiator shop to put mine in - it was a tight fit. Pretty easy, it just slips in and out. It’s held in by five flathead screws and nuts on each side and two on the top. The only problem is the screw heads are under the welt padding that is riveted to the shell. Luckily, it’s flexible enough to work the screw out with a little effort. I’ll shoot some pix when I put it back together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 And only two hours. I had a mechanic once that was getting to many come backs. He told me that any job worth doing is worth doing twice. (and he wanted to be paid twice) He wasn't around after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sactownog Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 I am greatful that you tagged me in this build forum, my transmission just started making noise, when I back up the Transmission makes a bell ringing sound every few seconds and when I drive forward, the transmission has a slight ticking sound. I know think I will have to remove the transmission to rebuild or repair it. not sure, but I guess its just in need of a resto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank29u Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 Glad you were able to remove without damaging anything. I had no doubt you would! frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 8, 2018 Author Share Posted August 8, 2018 Picked up the radiator yesterday with leak repaired and everything pressure tested for any other leaks. Everything checked out fine. Total cost - 25 bucks. Putting everything back together tomorrow. My extra fabric arrives from LB tomorrow and I’ll get that over to the upholstery shop so he can finish my seats. Planning on getting the motor started this weekend, then making new floorboards. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 Put the radiator back in last weekend. Some interesting details in this assembly. First, the water leak that started the problem. And the repair. The area cleaned and soldered. The lower section of the radiator has this stamped steel piece that, I believe, helps direct air up and into the radiator. It attaches with these screw head bolts and nuts. Thankfully, they didn't break when I took things apart. I don't know where I'd ever find replacements. They go through the honeycomb of the radiator. This obviously would be a major problem if the radiator was re-cored with a modern core. Here are the bolts in place. Here you can see the scoop on the radiator. Everything assembled and ready to go. Now I dropped it into the grill shell. Everything fit perfectly - for a change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 The radiator attaches to the shell with flat head slotted screws and nuts. The pain is you have to stretch the hood lace away enough to get the screw in there and then get a screwdriver on it to tighten things down. It's a long and tricky process. Then it was time to put everything back on the car. Lots of protection for the fenders. Things went smoothly and the shell dropped into place with no damage, scratches, cursing or other problems. Filled with distilled water after hooking the hoses back up and no leaks or other difficulties, 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 That is EXCELLENT news! Hopefully, your next post will include a video of a very smooth running 1932 Dodge Brothers sedan! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 I noticed there is a big hole in the upper radiator tank. Do you have the thermostatically controlled radiator vanes? I do not see the control on the engine.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 31 minutes ago, keiser31 said: I noticed there is a big hole in the upper radiator tank. Do you have the thermostatically controlled radiator vanes? I do not see the control on the engine.... As far as I know, all 32 radiators have that hole. My car did not come with the thermostatically controlled shutters. The original owner opted for side-mounts and wire wheels, but no shutters. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 So, I've taken over 4000 photos during the restoration of Daphne. Apparently, that just wasn't enough. I'm going through the exhaust system, getting ready to hook everything up. As I documented in earlier posts, I had the mounting bracket just behind the muffler remade (mine was missing) and the frame bracket re-vulcanized by Then And Now Automotive. So, all I had left was the rear mounting bracket. The problem is, I have two bags labelled "rear exhaust mount." This one... And this one... I went back through my frame disassembly photos and found these. It's obviously the first bracket, here on the rear of the frame... And here in a shot where i had the frame turned over. This looks like a jury-rigged setup to me. The other bracket looks a lot more substantial, but i can't find a single photograph of it on the frame. Exhaust systems are one of the items that have usually been changed on these old cars, so what is original and what isn't is always a crap shoot. If anyone has a 32 (or even a 31) with what they think is an original exhaust system, I'd be curious if there is anything like bracket two under there. How it got into the bag (with my writing on it) where is came from, and what it actually is, remain a mystery. I have come across a few bags with leftover parts from my long gone 48 Plymouth, but I never did anything to the exhaust on that car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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