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1913 Metz 22 - Our first project


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Jeff, really looking forward to your Metz restoration!

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Jeff, looking at your shop layout I'd suggest that you locate the hack saw so that there is maximum empty space to the left of it. This allows you to cut a long piece...like an axle or a piece of pipe or tubing. You might also make a stand the exact height of the vise on the saw to to hold one end of a long piece.

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2 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Jeff, looking at your shop layout I'd suggest that you locate the hack saw so that there is maximum empty space to the left of it. This allows you to cut a long piece...like an axle or a piece of pipe or tubing. You might also make a stand the exact height of the vise on the saw to to hold one end of a long piece.

Thanks for looking over the layout.  The power hacksaw is on wheels and I'll pull it out when I use it.  I didn't think about a stand, that's a great idea.

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11 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Good...that would have been my suggestion but be sure the wheels lock. Those things move around quite a bit when working. Mine has to be pushed back every so often and it's a heavy one.

It is interesting you say that.  The saw came with a base that the previous owner constructed.  I didn't like the base and planned to get rid of it.  My thought was that it was ugly, way overbuilt and you had to raise this handle to get the front wheel up so it would move.  Now that I've gotten the saw to work and I understand its weight and the momentum of the arm moving back and forth, I understand why it was built the way it was.  I now love the base. Of course it was still ugly so I painted it black.

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4 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said:

It is interesting you say that.  The saw came with a base that the previous owner constructed.  I didn't like the base and planned to get rid of it.  My thought was that it was ugly, way overbuilt and you had to raise this handle to get the front wheel up so it would move.  Now that I've gotten the saw to work and I understand its weight and the momentum of the arm moving back and forth, I understand why it was built the way it was.  I now love the base. Of course it was still ugly so I painted it black.

I've been contemplating a base for mine for some time... I figured it would have to be stout with it's weight and that arm reciprocating. I don't want it doing the Charleston across the floor while trying to cut. They are dinosaurs, but they are a cool tool!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been making pretty good progress.  The power hacksaw is complete and awaiting a new motor.  The Hendey horizontal milling machine is mostly complete.  The spindle has a few round nuts that someone butchered up pretty bad trying to get them off without the proper tool.  Unfortunately they are now unusable and one place on the spindle threads was damaged.  I used a thread file to restore those threads so that's fine.  I need to make some replacement nuts on the lathe.  One of the issues I have with my Hendey lathe is the backlash is over 50 thou.   I will fix this one day and I work around it by having an indicator on the side of the cross slide.  A while back I heard about the TouchDRO project which is a little computer board that hooks up to scales (glass or capacitance) and connects to an Android device which then runs an app and gives you a full featured DRO.   The cost is very reasonable and I've been planning on putting it on the lathe and mills so I went ahead and bought glass scales for the lathe along with the TouchDRO.

 

I got the cross slide axis hooked up tonight.  I'm very happy with how it mounted and installed.  The X axis (aligned with the lead screw) will mount to the back of the lathe which is a bit inaccessible right now.  In about a month I'll be removing everything from this room to run more electrical, add some lights, finish drywall and paint.  During that process the lathe will be out in the open and I'll install the X axis at that time.

 

The DRO has a ton of features.  On the milling machine it will be really handy.  It is a good bit mo re functional than even some of the top of the line DROs.  Some cool features include laying out a drill pattern (8 holes in a circle type thing) and seeing it in a graphic "preview" of the workspace.  You can interactively navigate to each of the holes with the graphical display showing your progress.  

 

I 3D printed a case for my Android tablet.  The case design allows for a power cable inside along with holes for a VESA mount.  I bought a VESA mount and attached that to the bar that holds the power switch for the lathe.  The swing arm on the mounts and swivel at the connection to the back of the tablet case makes it easy to position.  I'm happy with how it turned out.  It is right there easy to see and easy to use but not in the way.  I still need to calibrate the scales but it is working fantastic right out of the box.   I'll get started on the nuts this coming week and should be able to get the Hendey milling machine completed fairly soon after that.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like the drive setup...it's very simple. When I did the same thing I made a wooden 3 or 4 cone (I forget which) sheeve attached to a motor with a chain drive. It was worked fine but was very noisy. What controls the speed?

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13 minutes ago, JV Puleo said:

I like the drive setup...it's very simple. When I did the same thing I made a wooden 3 or 4 cone (I forget which) sheeve attached to a motor with a chain drive. It was worked fine but was very noisy. What controls the speed?

The motor is 3 phase and I'm running it off a VFD (variable frequency drive).  It is a 1740 rpm motor that is reduced down to 266 rpm at the spindle via the pulleys and flat belt.  266 rpm is the middle of the range the Hendey would have operated in 100 years ago off the line shaft.  Its stepped cone pulley would've had a low of 121 rpm and a high of 409 rpm.  It also had the option of a two-speed pulley off the line shaft which would've reduced that speed range a bit.  With the VFD I can vary the frequency from around 25Hz up to 100Hz which gives me a range of 100 rpm up to 450 rpm which matches up pretty nicely. Since the back gear is also available the spindle will go as slow as 20 rpm.

The feed system uses the Norton quick change gearbox and varies the feed from a low of 3 thousandths per revolution up to 160 thou per revolution.   Both X and Y have feed which can be reversed on the fly.  X and Y feed can operate independently or together. 

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It been a busy week.  I finally got the Racine power hacksaw finished.   Adjusting the mechanism that lifts the blade on the forward stroke is a bit tedious particularly when you don't have a manual that describes how it is supposed to work.  I think I have it setup correctly now. I do need to find some weights for the bar as I can see it bounces a bit on the cutting stroke.  Getting the power sorted out was also difficult.  The motor I bought for it spins at 3450 rpm which was a big mistake on my part.  I thought I could slow it down with the VFD, which you can, but it loses too much power.  I was able to get the speed down to the correct range by having the motor drive a cross shaft at 6:1 ratio and then the cross shaft drives the motor at around a 5:1 ratio for a total reduction of just less than 30:1.   I can then use the VFD to slow or speed up depending on the metal being cut. 

 

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I'm now starting on the Hendey shaper.  My plan is to drive it and the planer from the cross shaft that came with the planer.  I'll be using the 3HP 3 phase motor that I just finished putting on the Hendey milling machine as I've since replaced that with a 5HP 3 phase motor.   While looking for 3 phase motors on eBay I ran across a great deal on the 5HP motor and it was only a 2 hour round trip drive from my house.   I figured why not upgrade, more power is more better... right? ;)


 

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32 minutes ago, JV Puleo said:

That shaper looks to be in very good condition. I wonder if it's the original paint? Somewhere I got the idea that a lot of Hendey machines were painted green..I think the earlier one in the Smithsonian is green.

I can't say for sure but under the green there is a gray.  It could be the gray is a primer but I don't think so.  I will say that whomever painted it green took it apart to do so.  There are only two places it isn't green.  The underside of the ram and on the side under the tray supports.   The clutch wheel might be gray as well but it is pretty hard to tell.   The plan was to paint it and the planer black like the milling machine.  I'm reasonable sure the planer was originally black.   As I get more into the shaper I'm more impressed with how good the condition is.  While I don't see "frosting" everywhere I don't see the wear that I'd expect.  I've just about have the entire machine disassembled and I haven't run into any issues.  It really looks like it was rarely used.

 

Edited by Luv2Wrench (see edit history)
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It looks to me as if it spent most of it's life in a maintenance shop...there when needed but never used day-in and day-out. My lathe was such a machine. It suffered more from being left outside than it did from heavy use and ways are still excellent (although the frosting is gone) up near the head stock where they are usually worn the most. My Hendey lathe, on the other hand, is worn at the head stock end, another reason why I've put off working on it. I'd love to re-scrape it but I'm guessing that is beyond my skill level....or all the other adjustments that would have to be made are.

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2 minutes ago, JV Puleo said:

It looks to me as if it spent most of it's life in a maintenance shop...there when needed but never used day-in and day-out. My lathe was such a machine. It suffered more from being left outside than it did from heavy use and ways are still excellent (although the frosting is gone) up near the head stock where they are usually worn the most. My Hendey lathe, on the other hand, is worn at the head stock end, another reason why I've put off working on it. I'd love to re-scrape it but I'm guessing that is beyond my skill level....or all the other adjustments that would have to be made are.

Thinking back to when I bought the shaper I now remember it wasn't originally green.  The previous owner's son (whom I bought it from) said his dad bought it, painted it green and then likely never used it.  I do have a bit of history on the shaper.  I have a bill of sale from when the previous owner purchased it from J.T. Clayton in 1941.  Mr Clayton was the inventor and maker of "Whirlwind" Sirens.  I don't think Mr Clayton was the original owner as the "dealer tag" on the shaper is Joseph Beal & Co in Boston.  Long story short... I don't think the shaper has been used since 1941 and it doesn't look like it was used much before that.

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Hendey shaper now cosmetically finished.  I still need to fabricate part of the auto-advance as well as work out how it will be powered.  The current plan continues to be powering it and the planer from the cross shaft that came with the planer.  As such I'm starting now on getting the planer restored.  After that is completed I will take a month or so to transition the back third of the shop into a proper machine shop.  When I move the planer and shaper into that "new" area I will try and work out how the cross shaft might be mounted to power them both.

 

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Hendey Planer is now complete. I recently found out that it was built between 1875 and 1877.  The exact date is still not known.  It is serial number 19 which I find pretty incredible.   I haven't made chips with it yet as I need to move it into the room where the machine shop will be.  Before I can move it in there, well, the machine shop must be created!!   I have some wiring to change, extra lights to be added, a ton of junk to be removed, walls and floors to be painted, etc, etc.  I hope to get started on that in 2 weeks after I finish restoring a Monarch Jr 11" lathe. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Things are still going smoothly.  The Monarch Junior lathe restoration is completed.  That's the last major machine that needs restoration.  The process of reconfiguring the 24'x12' room that will become the machine shop has started.  With any luck I should be able to start moving machine tools in by end of this month.

Here's a picture of the Monarch Junior.  Not quite finished in this photo but close enough to get an idea of what it's like.   It has an 11" swing and a taper attachment.   I have no idea how well it works but hopefully we'll find out in the next month or so.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

The last month or so I've been reconfiguring the 12'x24' back section of my shop.  This area is separated from the main shop by a wall.  10 or so years ago when I converted the outbuilding into the shop I planned on using that 12'x24' section as my office.  I wasn't 100% sure about doing that so I decided to not finish the drywall so that I could take the drywall down If I needed to change where the electrical went.  Over the years I decided to put the machine tools in the area and being able to remove the panels was very helpful.

 

For the reconfiguration I took all but 4 panels down so that I could get the electrical where it needed to be.  I added a cutout in the dividing wall for the planer table.  In addition I had to make the door 54" wide so that I could get the machines in.  I've spent the last few weeks doing that work and then, of course, putting all the drywall back up as well as finishing it for paint.  I also added trim around the windows and such.  I finally got all that completed and painted Friday.  

 

Today I moved the machines in!!  I don't have everything in and I'll probably make some changes but I'm thrilled to have the beginnings of a proper machine shop.

 

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Wow! First class all the way.

Looking forward to a lot of good things coming out of this new shop.

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Very nice! I'm almost jealous but I have a similar plan for the garage I hope to eventually build...I'd like to do the same thing, with a shop separate from the car storage big enough for the machines but not too big to heat in the winter. I'll have to consult you when the time comes because most of the machines are 3-phase which isn't a problem where I am but is a major problem at home.

 

This is going to make the Metz project soooo much easier. (Easy is perhaps the wrong word but it should eliminate the frustration of sending things out and waiting months for them.)

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2 hours ago, cudaman said:

Great stuff!  Has there been any work done on the Metz in the midst of all the shop construction?

Not really.  The Metz restoration was paused in 2017.  At that point of the restoration I had done about all I could do without restoring (fabricating) the driveline.  I switched to the 1952 MG TD as a "quick project" that took nearly 5 years as life had a few surprised for me... as does for all of use.  During the MG TD restoration I collected the machines I would need to repair and fabricate the parts needed for the Metz.  To be honest I collected a few more machines than I probably needed as I became infected by the Old Iron Disease.  Once the machine shop is completed I need to add a 20'x8' extension to the shop that will allow me to be much more efficient. 

 

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walking into your shop is like walking into a time warp! Can you make a doghouse with a concrete pad just outside for your air compressor? i have mine in my shop and when it kicks on it makes my "pleasant place to be" not so pleasant. it always seems the phone rings and my compressor fires up at the same time! When i'm using my blast cabinet, its the worst.

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Thanks!

 

A doghouse for the air compressor is a great idea and the original plan for the reconfiguration included moving the air compressor to the extension.  I changed my mind for a few reasons (the short of it is that moving it would be more pain than gain).  First, it needs a 30amp circuit and I didn't run anything that hefty into that part of the shop and, of course, all those walls were finished years ago.  The air system is copper pipe and is designed such that it uses the height and length of the attic to cool the air and help the water condense.  Each "take-off" is branched up and then down to help keep the water out.  The end of the line goes to a drain.  Moving the air compressor would break this system and it works so well I didn't want to try and rework it.  Finally, while it does take up a fair amount of room in the machine shop it isn't that bad.  It is also at the far end of the shop and the noise is not bad at all.  I also wear ear protection anytime I'm using an air tool so I don't really hear it anyway.  Fortunately the system is still air tight so the compressor doesn't kick on unless I'm using a tool.

One option would be to put it literally on the other side of the wall outside but that area is what you see from inside the house.  I might still do that one day because I could make it look acceptable but the amount of work would be substantial.

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Luv2Wrench said:

A doghouse for the air compressor is a great idea

I was going to suggest that too. My next shop is going to have room dedicated for the compressor. It does get old listening to it especially when your concentrating on a part you're a machining. When you get old you got to have quiet to think. 😄

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  • 4 weeks later...

Inside of the extension is basically done!!  I need to wire the 220 outlet and add some trim to the doorway.  I hope to start moving things in this weekend. If all goes well I should start working on the Metz by the end of the month.   Interior size is just under 160 sq ft and while I'm sure it'll fill up way too fast, it is going to be great to have.  I'm super excited!!

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Shop reconfiguration complete!  Everything has gone better than planned and I've accomplished more than I set out to.   Things have gone well enough that I've decided to do a bit more a little at a time going forward.  

 

The engine and front chassis that I bought a year or so ago is now in the shop.  The current plan is to go through this engine and do a full evaluation.   I believe the engine is in pretty good condition based on a quick look I took when I first bought it.  Should that be the case I'll go ahead and do the rebuild.  

 

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I've been waiting with expectant anticipation for the re-start of this  project. This time around you are about as well equipped as anyone to tackle even the most challenging repairs. I suspect you will find it immensely more satisfying to just make the things you need than spending hours trying to find a source and months waiting. Bravo!

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On 6/18/2023 at 9:53 PM, JV Puleo said:

 I suspect you will find it immensely more satisfying to just make the things you need than spending hours trying to find a source and months waiting. Bravo!

I have to totally agree with this. When I first got my Olds and had done some research, I realized immediately that what parts I had missing were going to be impossible to find and started right away on planning an attack on how to make them. Some parts needed complete fabrication and others, working with bits and pieces, I was able to make back into fully useable parts. I really enjoyed learning how to use my machines because of these parts and the satisfaction I got from completing them. You do get a real sense of accomplishment when done. When I wasn't making parts, I was looking for other things needed though! Most of that time was spent ordering things that were available and getting other parts out like my gauges and chrome to the plater. Did  mention that my wife was pretty sick and tired of "not" seeing me much! LOL

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The front suspension has been taken apart and put away.  The wheel bearings looks very good and I'm considering reusing them instead of my previous plan to convert to a modern Timken tapered bearing.  I think the plan for the rear wheel bearings will stay the same.

 

I've gone through most of the engine and there's a lot to like.  I measured the clearances on the main bearings and found they were between 2.5 to 2 thousandths.  Connecting rods were similar though a little closer to 2.5 to 3 thou.   Interestingly all the caps still had shims so my guess is it was rebuilt and then not many miles put on it.  The bearing surfaces looked great and the crank even better.  Cylinders 1, 3 and 4 are very nice.  Cylinder 2 has some issues and I'll need to check with my engine guy to understand options.

 

All but one of the tappets move freely.  While last tappet is stuck I have managed to move it back and forth a bit.  A bigger issue is that a couple teeth on the gear off the camshaft that drives the oil pump are broken so there's a dead spot.  I'm 90% sure that it will need to be replaced.  The good news is that I have one, the bad news is the camshaft needs to come out and that's a bit more involved than on a more modern engine.  Speaking of the camshaft, the timing gear is an interesting combo of a metal gear in the middle with fiber gears on the outside... like a sandwich.  Of course the outer fiber gears are missing some teeth.  I do have another gear that is solid cast iron and hopefully I can swap it out.

 

The goal tomorrow is get the camshaft out without breaking anything, remove the valves and then get everything cleaned up.  I'll measure the cylinder bore as well as take some measurements from the crankshaft so that I can look about getting connecting rods, piston and rings should I need to bore out the cylinders to address the issues in the number 2 cylinder.  Also the number 2 piston has a stuck oil ring so I need to get that moving again.  I'll make a list of what's needed to start putting it back together and have a plan for that.  

 

Some parts I ordered for a carb rebuild came in today so I'll also try and get it rebuilt this weekend.  I'm feeling pretty optimistic but there are still some critical challenges to overcome so I'm trying not to get too excited.

 

 

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Edited by Luv2Wrench (see edit history)
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