ojh.

I use 'MyDataBase' for any particular project, you can store photos, notes etc and sort by Date or part description, group etc however you want to set it up. I have to manually load and its time consuming but it's worth it in the end. For instance, on the cylinder head I can search for Group (engine), then 'Cylinder Head' and then Date 'Ascending' and the program will return all the photos & data I've entered for the head in the order it was done ie, photo of the head as I received it, the condition it went to the machine shop (along with the shop name & date), the condition how it came out of the shop, the valves, springs, retainer kit, part# and supplier, the photo of the assembled head and date, the head being installed on the engine etc. In short, a complete cradle to grave history of any and all parts in the project. Its a very inexpensive program, they give you the tools to create the database and you do the actual formatting of the fields, it took me about 6-8 attempts to get it to where I like it. On the current shop project I have about 800 entries into the database and I'm just getting started.

Excellent, just what I was hoping to find! Thank you. Oj

Its a '53 Nash Healey seat

I have to rebuild this seat and don't know where to get the bits and bobs, a seat spring supply? Any recommendations? Thanks, Oj

I have a TIG welder or can silversolder it for you if you want to send it to me.

I've had good luck heating the bolt and melt beeswax down into the threads, got to be able to get the bolt to face up. I like the look of that induction heater gizmo, might have to get one.

It sounds more like raw fuel is dribbling into in the manifold, like there is trash in the needle & seat, float too high or something along those lines that will defy a cure by adjusting idle richness or main jetting. Best take it apart. I believe I have an original carb for that car, the Tillitson might be the better choice when rebuilt.

I have quite a few Marvel Schebler parts, once you figure out whats needed send me photos of what you need replaced and I'll see if I can help, my parts are in bins but no clue to what carbs. There are some gaskets in there but mostly all machined brass parts.

Looks nice, need more info, when trying to idle, do you have the aircleaner assembly off? and is there fuel dribbling from the boosters into the engine? or raw fuel coming from the 'vent tubes'? I'm thinking its a needle & seat problem allowing raw fuel to enter the engine and thats why it won't idle, that the RPM has to be high enough to burn the excessive fuel. If 'yes' then an easy fix, pull the needle and seat(s) associated with the excessive fuel, shake & spray with carb cleaner and reinstall to about the same height as original, adjust to proper height with fuel pressure available with the sightglass or fuelbowl screw out. I am just making a guess without proper & full information, I can easily be wrong.

Check the inside jam nut that holds the fuel inlet bulkhead where it enters the bowl (the seat part of the needle & seat), its a brass jam nut and easily cracked, people overtighten them to prevent leakage. The crack will be hard to see and will let fuel into the bowl bypassing the seat. There should be an acorn cap nut threading onto the shaft protruding the float bowl cover, that is your float adjustment. They don't have but a few gaskets, machined fittings with tapered sealing seats, been a while but there might not be any gaskets in them.

In a few years some marketing schools will stumble on the concept of 'Service' and they'll reinvent the human interaction at the point of sale. The whole concept of retail sales will turn upside down as people abandon the cold 'non-personal' sale exploited by Amazon and the internet. Imagine the reception of a market where a polite cashier checks you out on a regular cash register while your groceries are being bagged or somebody at the counter takes your order for a cheeseburger & fries and makes change for a $10 bill because credit cards have gone out of flavor. Its coming, people are backing away from all this selfservce crap and that paying with plastic is quicker.

I remember Dad reaching thru the steering wheel to shift both levers on his Mack B-63 Thermodyne logging truck.

I find that in the restoration business the more important attribute is Credibility, the customer has to have total faith in your judgement. All else is secondary. For instance, a friend was told the scratch on his Rolls would require a total repaint at a cost of $116K, no amount of paperwork, documentation or other accounting methods and schemes will be able to justify such a cost, only the Credibility of the shop can make that hurdle.

I found it easiest to not do any MU, the customer has a deposit with me that I draw from, it is his money that I am spending on parts for his project so I don't feel entitled to a markup. The labor I spend locating parts is a problem, I don't charge for time spent but I do record it as 'Non-Billable Hours' so the customer is aware I have gone the extra step in his behalf. Those hours can be considerable by the time the project is complete, I think the customer takes this into consideration with his 'tip' at the end of the job. It may not be a 'Professional' policy but when I lay my head to pillow at night I don't ponder if I've screwed a customer, I know he got my best effort.

Is there an official publication I can get that has the color schemes for a Nash Healey, an official book that a Judge would refer to. I'd like to know the engine bay color and the suspension colors. Thanks, Oj

A sad day to be sure, I remember him playing at WolfTrap and it was like he just stood there holding the guitar and the music just erupted around him like it was magic, totally effortless. You couldn't copy him because he didn't appear to doing anything. How about a little 'GreenSleeves'

That looks great Ron, love your cradle, you don't mind if I shamelessly copy it I hope? I have a 6cyl to assemble and have been wondering how best to do it. I have a question, when you cleaned your carburetor, you mentioned soaking it in an industrial cleaner, do you recall the brand name? Thanks, Oj

Is the Metz a 'friction' drive like the Carter?

Check with Moss Motors Ltd, part# 021-181 TieRod Set, best to confirm your thread, there are differences from time to time.

I'll have a look this evening. There is a chance you will have to break that beam from the pivot to wrench the nuts.

Hard to imagine the circumstances to cause that damage to frame only. There is a Nash-Healey forum on FaceBook where one of the members just made a replacement front frame section and he posted photos, its very well done. You'll probably destroy the rod end trying to get it out from that beam, they are an odd thread, a straight pipe thread if i recall right, Moss Motors has them.

What you call 'feature creep' I call 'Expanding horizons' where you can only see just so far and when you get there you see have to go into areas that were hidden from you. Just to follow up on the steering box, it is the same as the ones used in the Jag XK120 of the same vintage, I used a rebuild kit from SC Parts Group Ltd., (sales@scparts.co.uk), they have a website with dwgs of the box. Its a major effort to get it out, I think you've made the right decision.

I'll look back thru my notes and find the info for you, I was able to get the rebuild parts from a place in the UK. Word of warning in case you feel like exploring for a looksee under a cover, those ball bearings are not captive, they'll dribble out and bounce off your frame rails, don't ask how I came by this bit of knowledge.

Wow, it lit right off, a little tweaking and you might be good to go.

I'm from Northern Maine, Dad hauled logs on what was called the Maine-Quebec highway, we called it the Realty Road and I remember seeing these old tractors sitting and abandoned, that was back in the 1950's. Thanks for keeping them for everybody to see and appreciate.