Marty Roth

@1953 DODGE Meadowbrook Give us an idea of what you have already tried in helping your Dodge to start. 1. Is it getting adequate fuel to the carb? 2. Does the choke close when cold? 3. Do you know to step all the way down on the gas pedal and then release it before trying to start the car - assuming it is an automatic choke? 4. Does it cold-start easily if you spray ether or pour a bit of gas onto the carb before trying to start? The more info you give us here, the more the many experiences folk here can help you. Good luck !

Ben, you may have a distant cousin who drove for SECURITY, based in New Orleans. The state contracted to move our stuff here from Richmond, VA back in 1977. Fortunately, my wife's cousin was the lawyer for the company. When my wife pointed out a serious scratch and dent in a valuable antique piece of furniture, he said "That ain't damage - THIS IS DAMAGE" and then grabbed his screwdriver, gouged it, and cursed her out. The company quickly made good on a huge amount of damage, and told us the driver would never work for them again. I transported the cars myself.

any indication as to if running and driving?

With all due deference to my longtime friend David, I generally both Cross-tie, And Straight-tie, Both front and rear ! ... But then again, if I thought it necessary, I might wear both a belt - and suspenders Extra backup can't hurt. My cars will likely not move even if the trailer suffers major damage. I have believed in Backup Systems, both when I was designing Management Information Systems, and wherever safety may be an issue.

1. Exit your vehicle 2. Initiate a "Meet-and-Greet" with the other three drivers 3. Start a Poker game, or some other way to determine who passes through 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and last 4. Remember to be courteous if one of the others starts to mouth-off. 5. Enjoy your lunch 6. Plan an alternate route 7. Abandon your autonomous vehicle and wear your hiking boots 8. Sell your autonomous vehicle and drive your antique/collector car Or --- Just grab the post and rip the 4-Way Stop Sign out of the ground, and sell it at Hershey, and separately , just sell the @#$%&* autonomous vehicle

6th row, 3rd from the right- 1960 with 4 ventiports - a Flat-top 4-door hardtop between the MGA and the 1958 Cadillac,,, and maybe a 1967/1958 station wagon behind the '59 Ford wagon, 3 more to it's left?

What a great find - almost makes me wish I had a red and white 1955 Roadmaster convertible to properly display these wheel covers !

I was about to add the same note as Barney - It happened in two of our cars

I had the same ash tray on my desk many years ago before it fell and broke, misappropriated from the Monteleone Hotel on Royal Street - 1st block off Canal Street - local to us- Dropped my cousin and his new bride when they stayed there a couple of months ago- Great lobby, and even better bar !

@ply33, Thanks. That is what I assumed as well. I believe the current numbers displayed on the pump is the average of the Motor and the Research Octane Ratings, as in (MOTOR + RESEARCH), that total divided by 2

The Octane rating we see on a pump : The octane number is actually the simple average of two different octane rating methods— motor octane rating (MOR) and research octane rating (RON). How do these numbers relate to the Octane numbers we saw in the 1950s / 1960s, etc?

While the aftermarket and Ebay may not have the exact correct O-ring-equipped cap, you may just luck out at a salvage yard, or even an A/C repair specialty outfit in your area. Good luck

My grandson gave me a Chrome Gooseneck BALL, - just the BALL, which he got from a friend, thinking I could use it. At this time, I have no use for it, and could bring it along to Hershey, or to any of the tours we plan to attend - if there is any interest. It is huge, weighs a "ton", and has what appears to be a release trigger at the top Any Idea what it might be valued at?

James, Our condolences for your loss. Learning of your loss reminds me that I'm so thankful both for our relatively decent ability to deal with health concerns, and for the skill and compassion of so many medical and emergency professionals. Time heals .....

Our 733 Touring has the parking brake in the same location - it isn't really an issue once you get accustomed- Then again, drivers used to slide in from the passenger side, and the shifter was also a minor inconvenience

Hi Bob, Maybe for more clarity, you might Include the PACKARD name in Your heading, something like (Packard 733, not a Cadillac), just a thought- Thanks for bringing the ad

The Buick is the one coming toward us, 3rd from the rear of the center lane, the better one, changing lanes to pass the rest of the cars ! RIGHT ??

The white '58 convertible I bought and than lost/missed out on still sticks in my craw, white with white top and red/white interior - and the parts car had A/C Now wish I had the extra space and available funds to make one a serious driver, and the '58 still had the Hemi (Nothing wrong with a 413, but I like the nostalgia of the 392 Hemi)

Years ago, helping a friend with his Dual Point set-up, I used my trusty old Sears dwell meter, isolating one breaker set at a time. It did an acceptable job of getting the car running decently.

John, I left you a voicemail

Where does the other end connect? Is is air / vacuum? Is it oil ? Is it Brake Fluid ? Answering this question will help us diagnose an answer your question - But surely @Keiser31 would know

If you've also flushed all lines (and replaced the brake pressure-powered brake light switch if so-equipped), I'd go with Dot-5 Silicone. I had done so with several of our cars with absolutely no negative effects over a period of more than 20 years. Rather than Dot-3, for a few bucks more I would absolutely use Dot-4. Dot-4 is less Hygroscopic so it has less ability to retain moisture which would eventually cause rust in your brake system, affecting bores and the pistons which should otherwise move smoothly.

Saddened at this news, we had a few conversations, and he really knew his stuff - RIP

When does a poor man get to go golfing?

Good advice- Years back we had a 1971(1972?) 250C 2-door hardtop (no "B" pillar 4/5 passenger), parts were very costly, but comfort was amazing, and it was surprisingly quick with decent handling