Marty Roth

Wife had a 1982 Mark Cross Town & Country convertible - developed an undetermined engine problem - no power. Daughter had a Plymouth TC-3 stick shift until we replaced it with a Volvo 240DL when she had our grandson. Son had 2 used Dodge Chargers (like sister's Plymouth) - first was ok until wrecked, 2nd was a piece of junk. Had to remove motor mount to change belt Not my cup of tea

I agree that this is more likely akin to a Special (40 Series), and believe @deac is on the right track, however, this does not cross over to Buick numbering scheme as a 1937 Buick Model 44 is a 2-door slope-back (maybe an early pre-Sedanet?).

While some argue that all "Mouse Milk" additives are unnecessary, for the extra few bucks, my thought is that they generally can't hurt. I follow Marvel Mystery Oil suggestion, adding 4 ounces for each 10 gallons in the gas tank for upper cylinder lube (not octane related) Since I drive cross-country at speed, I also add 1 ounce of Alemite CD-2 Lead Substitute for each 10 gallons. And also add Star-Tron when I'm not running on pure Non-Ethanol, as well as for longer term storage (anything over a couple of weeks) - actually I now add it anytime the cars are in storage, because sometimes parking becomes extended storage unexpectedly Me too, probably since the 1960s, as suggested by a friend/mechanic/racer.

Our 1941 Convertible cabriolet is an amazing tour/driver. We've toured her more than 25,xxx miles since 2006.

Maybe because I grew up with this era car still on the streets, but that width (or close to it) whitewall tire does not seem out of place- especially on a fancy, side-mounted, brightly colored Buick/McLaughlin. I like it fine just like it is - to each his own ? Here's my 1937 Roadmaster!

Many years now, I've been adding 10-15% Diesel in my '30s and '40s cars (and even 20% in the earliest cars) to minimize or prevent vapor lock. Driving the Glidden Tour in Oklahoma City with 100+ degrees temps, I never even had to click on the electric fuel pump in the unrestored low miles all original 1941 Cadillac. A few friends told me they thought my engine was worn out and smoking, and were surprised when I explained that one morning I overdid the Diesel, forgetting that I had added the prior evening. Dinner at the Cattleman - Bumped into “Farmtruck” from TV show Street Outlaws and invited him to visit. He loved the original Classics and pre-war antiques. We invited him for a ride-along.

The 2-CV or Deux Chevaux (2 "French" Horses) was designed as a utility vehicle for Everyman: 4 passengers and 4 wheels under an umbrella- Driver wearing a Tophat, with a basket of raw eggs on the seat, driven across a freshly plowed field- breaking neither the hat, nor the eggs- As far as the "Compliant" suspension, the 2-CV may be the only car able to take a hard turn ON ALL 4 WHEELS - AND THE DOOR HANDLES at the same time ! Ours was a 1964 AZAM version with the 435 cc horizontally opposed air cooled 2-cylinder engine and centrifugal clutch and 4-speed transmission - my daily driver commuting into New Orleans. The cooling fan attached directly to the 6 volt generator, which in turn attached directly to the crankshaft - there was no need for a fan belt, and the air, heated while passing over the cylinder heads provided heat and defrost options. Our wipers were electric, but early versions were driven by the speedometer cable - drive fast/wipe fast - stopped? don't need to wipe? The rear seat was easily removable for use at a picnic, or to provide utility access. Doors, hood, and trunk slid into a crimped edge - easily replaceable A single horizontal suspension spring on each side telegraphed road irregularities from front to back (4-wheel IRS). and the 14 mm bolt in the center of the fan allowed me to use a socket and ratchet to start the engine when the battery was discharged. My wife drove the Citroen Ami-6, an advanced version of the 2-CV. It was a 4-door sedan with a real body and roll-up windows - not a 6-cylinder, but rather the horizontally opposed 602 cc 2-cylinder "BIG BLOCK".

Split manifold for dual exhausts

Is this a 170 ci (standard) or the better optional 225 ci Slant Six. I've had both, and there is a major difference The (Base Level) V-100 came with the smaller 170 ci Slant Six. The bigger and significantly better and long-lived 225 ci Slant Six was an option on the V-100, and also came on the V-200 and the Signet. My 1964 V-200 had the 225 ci and 3-on-the-tree, but my other one had the 3-speed Torque-Flyte transmission (also excellent)

Despite visual evaluation - don't knock it until you've tried it - the 2-CV seating is surprisingly more comfortable than you might expect. I put more miles on mine than I had planned, and then passed it along to a friend on this FORUM. In my opinion, every Citroen is a joy to drive - experience counts more than guesswork. Of course our several DS-21s and SM were simply amazing in both ride and comfort, as well as safety design.

I had that happen many years ago - 1950s? Learned to drive enough to get engine up to full operating and then drive several more miles- then pull the valve / rocker cover with engine off, and adjust valves. Always worked like a charm, from my 1932, and 1951 Chevys up to my 1958 Triumph TR-3

Good advice, but also be sure to adjust the rest of the valves - not only the "ticking" ones, the ones not ticking just may be too tight, not allowing the valve to sit on the head long enough (or at all), possibly leading to burned valves

Having owned, and toured the 2-CV, Ami-6, and even run cross-country with our DS-21, and SM, I can vouch for that - and also expound on their design with safety in-mind.

Keeping good records is key - been there, done that, could share an interesting and (now) amusing story about dealing with the IRS and their admission of their misunderstanding

Parking hs 1949-1950 Chevy next to the 1940-1941-ish Buick cabriolet? Isn't he em-bare-a$$ed? And, it seems something similar may be happening on the driver's side, as well.

1942, Dad was working at Todd Shipyards in Bayonne, NY, but also moonlighting, working part time for mom's uncle. Among his other businesses, Uncle Benny had two operations in one of his companies. One was that of constructing new tires for military-related vehicles. The other was recapping tires for local business, doctors, etc. Transporting tires, both military and civilian, recaps or carcasses, were by use of (as I was told) a repurposed 1934 Pierce-Arrow which had been turned into a stake-bodied truck.

VMCCA organizes Progressive week-long tours, and frequently stages then over sequential years. We did the "GREAT RIVER ROAD", which over five years travelled both banks of the Mississippi River in 5 stages between Lake Itasca, Minnesota and Venice, Louisiana, south of New Orleans. Later, we drove the VMCCA "Circle the Great Lakes - again stages over 5 years. They also have been travelling the route of Lewis and Clark from St Louis to the great Northwest. This year between June 4-9 we are set to drive the first segment of "Old Spanish Trail" which will start at Santa Fe, New Mexico, driving by way of Taos and Alamosa, through Gunnison to Grand Junction, Colorado. Our return route should be equally interesting, starting down by way of Ouray, Silverton, and Durango. Very different for this "Flat-lander". Hopefully we'll get to drive future segments as well. Maybe consider joining us on the AACA Founders Tour based in London, Ontario, in July

I was about to ad the same thought. I save my old toothbrushes for getting out wax residue in tight crevasses - but not all that often since all our cars are tour drivers and look "good enough" from 20 ft

@Rusty_OToole It amazes me that a person, supposedly interested in his/her car, will seek out advice, but then not check back for responses. Maybe they're more accustomed to sites where multiple examples of "canned" responses exist - or a video showing a "quick & dirty" shortcut on more modern stuff? Thanks for your note

Thanks @Rusty_OToole It's only been 3 days - maybe he's away from his laptop- and is it even Politically Correct to "Whistle Dixie" anymore - even here in Louisiana? (of course I'm originally from New Jersey, but drive with a "Southbound Attitude")

The fuel pump should not need to be sealed. I believe leaving it bare will look best, and not affect operation.

Maybe because Dot-3 was readily available? My 1952 Cadillac convertible used brake fluid in a single system for all four windows, the front seat, and the convertible top. We replaced all seven of the cylinders, cleaned the switches, replaced hard and soft lines, and went back with Dot-5 silicone - no more problems! Our 1954 Cadillac convertible top, seat, and windows are all electric. The springs pull them down. Our 1941 Cadillac convertible cabriolet uses vacuum to raise and lower the top, and all else is manual.

@1953 DODGE Meadowbrook Give us an idea of what you have already tried in helping your Dodge to start. 1. Is it getting adequate fuel to the carb? 2. Does the choke close when cold? 3. Do you know to step all the way down on the gas pedal and then release it before trying to start the car - assuming it is an automatic choke? 4. Does it cold-start easily if you spray ether or pour a bit of gas onto the carb before trying to start? The more info you give us here, the more the many experiences folk here can help you. Good luck !

Ben, you may have a distant cousin who drove for SECURITY, based in New Orleans. The state contracted to move our stuff here from Richmond, VA back in 1977. Fortunately, my wife's cousin was the lawyer for the company. When my wife pointed out a serious scratch and dent in a valuable antique piece of furniture, he said "That ain't damage - THIS IS DAMAGE" and then grabbed his screwdriver, gouged it, and cursed her out. The company quickly made good on a huge amount of damage, and told us the driver would never work for them again. I transported the cars myself.

any indication as to if running and driving?