steelman

For several decades, GM built two starters. A high torque and a low torque. Noses were different to bolt to the various blocks, but only two different cases. These were the same external size, but the internal windings were different. Easy to tell the difference from the outside. If there is a spacer and long bolt in the connection to the solenoid, it is a high torque starter. The connection from a low torque starter we about an inch further toward the center of the case and was attached to the solenoid without the spacer. High torque pictured here. I have never seen a big Buick with a low torque starter, most of these were in Chevy's and Pontiacs. The mini starters TelRiv sells are great. We had a 54 Chrysler New Yorker with a hemi in the shop last fall. Fighting starter issues for a while. Put a mini starter on it and it now starts like a dream.

The simple answer is you are going to have to use March for an aftermarket system. I have had my eye out for something along these lines myself, and go to 3-4 large street rod events a year. The only supplier/manufacturers that has anything for the nailhead is March and Alan Grove. Alan Grove has some nailhead items, but these are not the single serpentine system you are looking for. http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/401_425_Buick.htm

Billet Art still has their ad for a 65 grille on eBay, but I can't find one for a 63. I know they have the pattern for a 63, as I own one. Have you contacted them to see about getting one made? https://www.ebay.com/i/312565475222?chn=ps There is a contact seller option on this page.

Looking back it has been almost 10 years since I did this. Good luck with this. let me know if you have questions.

If you decide to replace the steel lines, the hardest is the one running through the frame front to rear as Tom states. Before you try to remove this line, tie a nylon string to the front of the line. It comes out the back, as there is more room. As you pull the line out the back, feed the string in the front. When the line is out, you should have a string through the frame where the line was. Attach the new line to the end of the string and use it to pull the line through the frame from the front. Still not easy, but it can be done.

Lower picture is a Turbo 400. Should say Hydramatic on the pan.

Performanceonline.com has a kit for the 63 Riviera. Booster and dual master.

Mike, the letters are not held on by nuts from the back side. These are push pins similar the side horseshoe trim pieces.

The BUICK letters on the deck lid are a 63 only item. 64 had a Riviera script in the right hand corner.

Short answer would be no, but I think 63 is different. Mine says: D I6 N2 S Z4

Sorry, Tom. It should have said early mirror placement or early mirror location. And not that I could find them, but I have seen pictures of the mirror reinforcement inside the door skin on this site.

The early 63s had the mirror near the wing window post. Mine is a 12B car with the early mirror. Yes, it was this dirty when I bought it. Sometime later in the build, they were moved forward on the door. I think 64 and 65 mirrors have this same placement.

The search feature on this forum used to work great. It is now worthless. Found the post from Tom T. DON'T let them tell you its out of phase. They are supposed to be 67 1/2* out of phase from the factory. When you replace u-joints use the solid H/Duty ones. They are MUCH stronger. That's one of the reasons they were used from the factory. Tom T.

As Ed suggested earlier, go back and read Tom T's posts about driveshaft phasing. The 63 was engineered out of phase for a reason and correcting it to be like a normal driveshaft will create vibrations. Consult the Chassis Manual. I believe these were designed to be 37 degrees out of phase and should stay that way.

I can't get the search to work either. He used a Hirschmann Hit Auta 2050. I bought one of these but have not installed it yet. Too many other irons in the fire right now. Here is an ebay link, but I bought mine on Amazon. If you find the write-up, you will see this is not a direct bolt in, but can be made to work. I printed it off when I bought the antenna, but it is in the trunk of the car with the antenna. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hirschmann-2050-Electric-Aerial-Power-Antenna-Chrome-Top-Classic-Car-Oldtimer-/172094018541

Limited experience, and all mine was going the other way. US to Canada. Unless you intend to get this car yourself and be there to fill out the paperwork, the import service is a necessary expense. I had a good friend or two years ago who would come to Oklahoma and load up on pickup sheetmetal. Fenders, doors, beds, grilles... But they did all the paperwork in person at the border. Hire the broker.

Went with a friend last weekend to look at a 69 Tempest. New paint in a very ugly gray. My very first comment was "Looks like somebody tried to take the drip rail moldings off with a claw hammer!".

You need to bleed the pump with the front wheels off the ground. Just as stated above, but no load on the tires will make this go a lot faster.

Chasander has a 63, so rear speaker only. I have found a nice 6x9 with an internal tweeter that will fit and give good sound, but you buy these in pairs. I need to see what brand I was looking at. This is also on my To-Do list for this spring. I have the new antenna that will fully retract. My Wonderbar never has worked. I want something to fit the dash and looks like it belongs. I am leaning towards the Custom Autosound, but have not pulled the trigger. But I need tunes, and do not want to use my phone or a separate Bluetooth speaker.

Rich, all three years, 63, 64, and 65 are different. And then you add standard or custom interior, and you have six different possibilities. Let us know the year and which interior and somebody will get you an answer. Welcome to the forum.

These guys must really like to weld. They shortened the car 1 1/16" and through the Dutchman panel under the rear glass. So they replaced the frame and will add larger wheel tubs for larger rear tires. So when they cut the back of the car off and set it aside would have been a perfect time to have better access to replace the tubs. But no, they welded the back of the car back on. He said he did this just to make people scratch their heads. Same with the subtle 1 1/2" chop. Neither will be that noticeable unless parked next to a stock Riviera. And when, other than the ROA meets, do you see more than one Riviera at a show? A large show, such as Good Guys might have 3. Out of 2000 cars on the grounds. And these 3 will be acres apart unless the owners happen to be buddies. Way too much work for the result. I want to see how it comes out, but I am not sure any of this work will be that noticeable.

Yes, but the rest of it is too far gone. No way this car was a California car all it's life. Way too much rust.

What a waste of a good GS.

This may not be true for the Riviera, but on early Corvettes the tag is attached to the fill hole. I could not find any good reference pictures. And Riviera may be different.

He sold that car to a guy in Maryland. Didn't really want to, but he was thinning his collection. Price was not really discussed, but 100k was bantered around and the guy didn't flinch.