steelman

While not quite as thick, this is from a 31 Ford Model A we rebuilt last year. It was pretty thick. Car was parked in a barn in 1974.

Turb, I think you have a bad vacuum hose. Hole in the line somewhere if you can’t get vacuum on either end. Hook your MighyVac to a short new hose at the trunk latch. Now see what you get.

If you haven’t, take the lenses out and clean them. Careful, they will scratch. Both inside and out. I will make a huge difference. My car sits in my garage facing East. So when I get home in the evening the afternoon sun reflects off my tail lights. More than once I have checked to be sure my lights have not been left on. I know they have not, but they reflect really well when they are clean.

I believe this is the car George started with.

George, was this one in Poland, or even in Europe when you found it? Or did you buy it and import it over there? Excellent work, by the way.

Took me 60 years, but I finally made the honor roll. Thanks, Rodney!

One of my great fears is when I die, my wife will sell my parts for what I told her I had in them...

If you can hear wind noise, your pipes aren't loud enough. There, I said it. Couldn't hold my tongue or sit on my hands any longer. 😁

One of the few things that didn’t work on my car when I bought it was the heater. It had been bypassed. I assumed it leaked. It did. Bought a used one, it leaked too. Bought a new one, it did’t fit. Sent it back. Got one from another place, it didn’t fit either. A/C cores are different and are not reproduced. Non-air cores are reproduced, but they are different. I took my old one in to be recored, as Brian suggests above. Fit like it should, because it was the one that came out.

I haven't seen Will post in a while. Not sure what is happening with his car. He posted some on this forum, but better photos and details are on LatG. Maybe this will help. https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56282&highlight=riviera

Get creative and do it right. But I love yours just like it is.

Hate to burst your bubble, but I am not sure these will work on the rear either. Changing to a 65 front hub makes the center hub diameter smaller, but you will need a 1 to 1 1/4" spacer to keep these from rubbing the frame in a turn. My 17x7 wheels with 3 5/8 back spacing still want to rub on full lock. Still have to machine the center in the rear. But first, crawl under the car and look at the exhaust routing. Notice a lot of the inner wheel well is used by the stock exhaust. So at the least you will have to cut off the exhaust over the axle and dump in front of the tire. Stock muffler is behind the rear axle, so new mufflers up under the floor. Been there, keeps the floor hot under your feet. Here is one of the pipes for reference. Good luck. I would try to return these.

Ed assumes you are using an original 62 Nailhead. So now we have to ask, what are you using for a motor. May work, may not.

Word of warning, Chevy truck wheels will not fit 63-64s without a spacer. Center hole is too small. If buying original Buick wheels, check the center hole diameter if you are trying to fit a 63 or 64.

Have you tried to adjust the turn signal switch? This is under the dash below the column, tilt wheel or not. There is a sliding pin on the bottom of this that can adjusted. Too far one way, no left turn signals. Too far the other way, no right turn signals.

My car developed brake issues shortly after I bought it. Several combinations of new and rebuilt boosters and master cylinders later, I was ready to scrap the entire system and start over, including adding disc brakes. Upgrading the booster and master cylinder to late model equipment and replacing all the rubber lines made a HUGE difference. Disc brakes were no longer on my to-do list for this car. If the stock brakes work correctly, you will slide off in the floor on a panic stop without a seatbelt.

I may depend on which "stock" rally wheel you have. They may not clear the 65-67 wheel, but might clear the later 68-71 wheels made for disc brakes. These look similar outside, but have slight differences. Several threads here discuss these differences. But I have no idea if either wheel will clear.

Wait, PWB has a 67, which means 430 big block. does it have the same heat riser through the intake manifold that a nailhead does? Also, it would not have an AFB, but a Q-jet? Most of these responses apply to the nailhead. Do they apply to the 430 as well? Gasket in the first post is for a Q-jet.

Couldn't agree more. That is part of the reason I like the Chevelle gauges better.

Dakota Digital makes replacement instruments for the 63-65 Riviera, but the 69 Chevelle instruments look a lot better. But the full set is half again as much money for the Chevelle stuff. But they make a great product and will help you work out any issues you have. https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=424/mode=cat/cat424.htm

The larger the wheel diameter chosen, the shorter the tire sidewall needs to be to compensate for it. It is the outside diameter of the tire you need to fit, then choose the wheel and tire to fit that. These cars came with tall tires, so there is lots of clearance. I am running a 255/55/17 on an 8.5" rim in the back with the car lowered about 6" from stock at ride height. Some wheels will make the front tires rub the frame inside, even at stock height. If you go wider, it needs to be offset to the outside. Try to keep a 3.5" backspacing on the front when you order wheels. More than that and they will rub the frame, unless your tire is really skinny. If you order wheels, be sure to check the center hub diameter, both front and rear. These hubs are larger than most modern cars and will require a larger center hole be machined. And lug nuts will be 1/2x20. You don't have the left hand thread issue the 63s do, so all four wheels have the same 1/2" lug bolts.

My OCD won’t let me do that though. That says a bunch for a lot of us. Mint green is a great color on that car. Then you see the brown carpet? What? Then when you see the trunk jambs it all makes sense. Seems to be a brown car from the factory. Good looking 20 footer, but the interior would need a complete color change, so even the things that weren't worn out would need redone. Project for sure.

Rather than should I or shouldn't I, the choices seem to be; 1. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 2. If it ain't broke, keep fixing it until it is.

Ride Tech made everything. Mounts, bags, and shocks in the rear kit. Search Riviera on their site and there are several options, depending on exactly what you want.

I have been trying to stay out on this one, but let me add a couple of things. First, I know you said you do not want air bags. But let me tell you about the setup on the rear of my car. I too, have a steep driveway. On the rear of my car are air springs and regular shocks. All this came in my setup, but you can buy the individual parts and pieces. If you find an air shock, you will still have to have an on board compressor, storage tank, and controller to pick up the back of the car on demand as you are wanting to do. You don't have to put bags in the front or do anything at all to the front. But the back of my car will move about 12" at the bumper between full up and full down. Actually if I get the back too high, it wants to scrape the front. Other than drilling a few holes for lines, no other mods needed to do this. Maybe not what you wanted to hear, but it will do what you are asking.