steelman

David, I am not sure your car being lowered has anything to do with your vibration. My 63 is bagged, so it will run high, low, or any combination in between. I spent yesterday driving around in various positions trying to see if any combination would create a vibration similar to yours. I could not. High, low, front up and back down, or front down and back up, or even side higher combination created no vibration. One of the benefits of having the shop at the end of a private road means I can take road conditions out of this testing, as it was all done on the same road. Not the info you wanted to hear, but I tried.

Gene, now I know what old plan drawers can be used for. We used to have a warehouse full of these.

It may have more to do with the way the manifolds are constructed than the carbs.

All insurance is great until a claim is made. Not all policies, or even stated value policies are created equal. And in the case of a total loss, most are the same. The issue comes up when it is not a total loss, or you are under insured and the repair costs more than the stated value, but you want to repair the car. Check with owners who have had to make claims before picking an insurance carrier.

Have to say I agree. I had to go back and find these, but here is a before and after of mine. Yes, lowered is much better.

Two on each side, I think. One in front of and one behind the centerline of the tire., for left and right turns. I had to trim my stainless wheel opening molding a little more to clear these, but it took care of my rubbing problem. Yours looks like it has already been trimmed. Mine was not trimmed at all, and ran right by these divots at full width on each side.

If you decide to remove the rivet heads completely, pull the drums and knock the rest of the rivet out of the back side of the hub. A rivet without a head is just a rivet waiting to come loose and fall into the braking mechanisms. As Tom stated above, he has removed these without affecting the hub/drum relationship. They may stay in the hub/drum assembly without heads forever. But I wouldn't take that bet.

Not even sure I should ask this, but didn't black interiors get a silver headliner? Did that vary with standard or custom interior?

John, regarding the screw at the back of the console, this was a mid year change. Early production did not have a screw at the back in this location. So your early floor might not have a hole to align with a later console in this location. Get everything else aligned and drill this one through the floor last.

Check to see if the same year Impala is made. Should be the same.

Very early 63s had a painted windshield trim. This was changed to a chrome molding early in the model run. Do you know your build date? My Dec. 62 car has chrome moldings, so it was changed before that.

I thought doors and ignition were the same, trunk and glove box took the round key. Mostly I use the remote for the trunk and have never locked the glove box.

My concern would be the urethane sealer. If the installer gets this on the trim you almost have to throw the trim away. it will not come off. Maybe the installer gets it perfect. Not sure I want to take that chance. I would remove the trim and play it safe.

I think he fell in the wagon. As in a 1994 Buick Estate Wagon. AKA Large Marge. And the seven step program is for quitters. Not sure he wants to quit. Or we want him to quit either.

Because 15" wheels would not clear the redesigned larger brakes of the C4.

All original with a Sanden A/C compressor and an Alan Grove bracket painted the wrong color supporting it.

Ken, if you have the old one in hand it is best to take it to a radiator shop and have it recored. They will put your tanks on a new core and when you get it back you know it fits because it is the one that came out of the car.

Or did he mean Locke, which is a plumbing supply chain? Kreed should answer back shortly.

But these are worth more if you call them Cadillac air cleaners rather than Oldsmobile air cleaners.

Thanks, Bill. I guess I was thinking about your adventure when I made my earlier post. So to clarify, not a direct bolt in for a 63.

I don’t think you can add the arm rest to a rear seat that wasn’t equipped with one originally. Rear springs and frame are configured differently in this area. Expect to replace the bottom rear seat frame or heavily modify what you have now.

Not sure about the plug, but Eklers and others have the posi tags.

Figure out how to light it in the back window on the package tray like the low riders do their chrome gang...I mean club logos. You might start something.

I went with the TA for one simple reason. Bearing in the front rather than a brass bushing. Other than that, my research said the other aftermarket ones were about the same.

When I was a kid, our barber had a stack of these. If you sat in the chair and talked about a project you had been putting off, he would hand you one of these as you left. He said your excuse was now gone, as you now have a round tuit. My dad still has his stack, so I come by it naturally.