steelman

John, pattern is the same for the heat riser and the rams horn. You will be good. McMaster Carr has brass nuts, but may have minimum order and shipping issues to you. Worth a check. www.mcmaster.com

Cast valve covers are taller and more square at the top. Sheet metal covers are shorter and rounder at the top. Regular bracket can be modified to work. Have to remove material on the inside of the bracket on three sides. Close to a quarter inch at the top of the arch of the bracket. Work slow and check often for clearance.

Hate to argue, but these are Chevy car rallies. Chevy truck rally’s have a different center. 15x8 for trucks, 15x7 for vans, but I have seen these in the aftermarket up to 24s.

Really telling your age with OTASCO and Fox Craft, ya know? Oklahoma Tire And Supply Co. has been gone since the early 70s.

You want screaming, drive my 55 Chevy with a Turbo 400, 4.56 gears, and a G70x14 tire. Thought I would never get that car home. Love the car, but not one for a day trip.

EmTee, also remember GM trucks and vans didn’t get locks and switches on the column until 73. Still in the dash through 72.

Go talk to Max at American Transmission on S. Walker in OKC. 405-631-1386. If you are in OK, half the battle is won. Max also has a gorgeous 67 Riviera and a great 55 Chevy hardtop. He is your guy.

Make the change. You will be glad you did. Unless you just abuse these, stock drums are fine. Big difference with dual cylinder and modern booster. I went through this almost exact same thing several years ago.

Only a couple of small errors. At 2:10 is an oddball engine. 63 vacuum tank, black air cleaner (64) dual master cylinder, aluminum valve covers and a ribbed valley cover that was never on a production nailhead that I know of. Later battery as well. At 2:40, a 425 cubic engine is noted as optional. What is overlooked is that this was a late year add and available to only a small percertage of Riviera buyers. And at 3:09 is a picture of a 63 with a 65 grille and hidden headlights in the fenders. It also has a stand up hood ornament, making it a 64, not a 63. But overall an interesting video.

Not sure if Bill is sending you a PM for a new bolt or a new housing, but it would be easier to just get a new complete housing with all 4 studs than trying to replace just one stud, based on your questions of how to do it. Bill can supply that as well.

Description says Park Ave. Not sure these would be any better than the stock mirrors, based on where they are placed. Everybody that has done a right hand mirror in this location say it is useless. My 63 has the mirror in the early position, about even with the rear wing post. With my seat being moved back 3”, I think I could see out of a right side mirror in this location. When I add one, it will be located even with the rear wing post so as to not be obstructed. Look at early 90s Mustangs for a painted mirror that has a higher base to get these up at a better height. Also need to be sure these still allow operation of the wing windows, in either location.

I have several first gen Riviera pictures in my collection. Some two toned very well. others, not so much. Maybe these help, maybe they don't. In the end, Bernie has to be happy with what Bernie chooses. Nobody else. But I really like the tri-tone, black, silver, black here. Would work well if you go back with the vinyl top as well.

And It seems to have an aftermarket aluminum radiator. Missed that until EmTee blew up the a/c pulley for all to see.

I agree with EmTee, the column is early 70’s, as is the bench seat. Look at the seat back height. Notice it is above the bottom of the window level. Almost like an integrated headrest. Again, wasn’t produced until the early 70’s. I also have to agree with some others. Buy a better example unless you are really in love with the changes made to this one.

Anything can be a problem if you are not careful. You need an internal spring compressor. Ones shown are external. You can borrow or rent these from O’Reilly’s or AutoZone or similar parts house. Remove the shock and insert the compressor up through the lower arm where the shock was. make sure when you jack up the frame you have room for the lower arm to be completely vertical when the spring is removed. You will still have some pressure on the arm, so lower it easy and remove or readjust the spring. You might get it compressed enough to move it into the notch correctly without completely removing it. A light is your friend to be sure you have it seated properly on each end, then remove the compressor.

Took a while, but here are a couple more shots of the 56 with 65 fender pods.

Haven’t found any more pictures yet. This is from the GNRS at Pomona this weekend. More will surface soon, but nothing yet.

Tom, I believe it just the opposite. 65 Riviera fender pods grafted to a 56 Chevy. You can see the point of the Bel Air trim on the side of the fender.

Why did you buy the residual pressure valves? I would plumb without these first, then add if needed, but you should not need these with drum brakes.

Jack the car and put a jackstand under each corner of the frame, front and rear on a semi level surface. Check across front and rear for level and adjust as needed with shims. Now measure all wheel arches. Record front, rear, and center of each arch on each side. If these are drastically different, it it frame or body mounts. If all are within a certain tolerance, the difference is in the suspension.

Bumping up in size really creates issues as the tail pipes go over the rear axle in the wheel well. Flowmaster makes a dual inlet, dual outlet crossover muffler that fits the stock location great. It is intended for a Camaro. The 80 Series is real quiet, but you hear it when you want to. Inlets and outlets are both 2.5, so your muffler shop has to get creative to bring these down to 2.25, but it can be done with the right tools. I love mine. Part # 389-42582, $189 at Jegs, but check others as well.

Positraction rear will also have a red tag attached to one of the cover bolts saying Positraction Lube Only. Assuming it hasn’t been removed at some point or was ever there to start with.

#4 is the STV valve, I believe. Old Air has an STV valve elimination kit. This allows the compressor to cycle like a modern vehicle, not run at all times, at it does now when the A/C is on. You can do this so you can’t see that it has been done and shows to be all original.