61polara

TerryB you are correct, I just simplified it a little not going into the neutral start switch. The bypass I suggested will bypass the neutral safety switch as well, so the starter will engage in any gear and will engage with the engine running. These are about the only options if Jason wants to keep his one wire alternator. Going back with the original generator will restore these functions.

Looking closer at your starter relay, it appears to be wired correctly. The green wires that the prior owner wired to a push button starter switch bypass this relay by applying power from the main power terminal directly to the solenoid. The two brown wires are two different wires coming out of the harness, which I didn't see before. The one connected to the terminal on the left is the power input from the starter key switch and should be hot only when the key is held in the start position. The brown wire attached to the ARM terminal on the right goes to the ARM terminal on the voltage regulator. This is the ground for the relay solenoid coil in the relay not the one on the starter. When the key is turned to the start position, voltage flows to the IGN terminal on the relay which applies power to the solenoid coil in the relay. This coil is grounded through the ARM terminal to the voltage regulator and then the generator as a safety feature to prevent the starter from engaging while the engine is running. You can jumper the IGN terminal to the SOL terminal (or move the wire to the IGN terminal from that terminal to the SOL terminal and bypass the relay internal solenoid. This is the same as the PO has done with his push button starter switch. Or you could ground the ARM wire. These relays are very hard to find and very expensive when you find them. If yours doesn't work, try opening the case and clean the contacts inside and you may save it. Hope this will get you going again.

From your picture, it looks like the brown cloth wire is connected from the small terminal on the right to the terminal on the left. If so, someone has already bypassed something.

Do you still have the factory starter relay or has it been changed to a Ford style (or another style) relay? It's located on the inner fender beside the battery. Post a picture of your relay and we'll see if we can help you. I've just mostly figured out what a prior owner did in converting the starter relay on my '54 DeSoto Firedome to a Ford style relay. At least I have the starter engaging by turning the key now and the engine starting. Also, the neutral safety switch is wired through the starter relay, so you may have an issue there now as well.

Always check the factory wiring diagram before making modifications to see what you are impacting. The 1954 DeSoto starter relay is grounded through the regulator to the generator to prevent engaging the starter while the engine is running. With no voltage output from the generator, the relay ground flows through the generator. When the engine starts and the generator begins to put out current the ground for the starter relay is lost and the starter will not engage. Looks like you've lost your ground for the relay.

Earl, have you considered a mid 60's Buick Skylark or Special. They may be more to your liking.

Here are photos and wiring diagrams for the 6/12 battery I was discussing above.

There was a 6/12 volt battery in a 1946 Dodge I bought about 1974. I've searched for a picture of one with no luck. Antique Auto Battery offer a setup using two 6 volt batteries, a large solenoid and relay. It's a very complicated system. Of course, they are no longer in business. Two years ago, I purchased a 1941 Lincoln with this system installed. When I had a cranking problem, I had to figure out this system. I tracked down the supplier of the solenoid and found a wiring diagram for it, but it didn't use the relay. I will be eleminating this are fixing the 6 volt system.

Nash apparently used this 6-8 volt battery through at least 1934. It was not listed in 1937 and I don't have a reference for 1934 or 1936. I don't know what this battery was unless it was like the 6/12 volt batteries that were available through the 1960's or possibly latter. Those batteries had two six volt batteries in a single case, with a starter solenoid mounted on top. When the starter was engaged, it activated the solenoid on top of the battery, which connected the two 6 volt sections giving 12 volts for starting. When the starter was released it reverted to 6 volts for running and the accessories.

The original tire size for you 1931 Nash 880 was 5.50x18 from the 1936 Red Book (same as todays Blue Book).

The drive belt was remove for winter. Chrysler also offered the same A/C unit for 1941, but none were known to have been installed.

That is a factory metallic and the flake is very fine almost as fine as todays pearls. One well known Buick restorer told me that they would buy aluminum flake and grind it finer. Don't know how they did it though.

I've owned a '47 Roadmaster sedan for about 30 years. They are great road cars and the last year of manual transmissions on the Roadmaster. In '48 Dynaflow was standard on the Roadmasters. Great highway cruiser that will do 65-70 all day long. With the 320 cid straight eight engine, you can easily start off in second and never want to downshift from third to second unless you are under 15-20 mph. This appears to be a mostly original car that would be a great candidate for AACA HPOF.

1955 Cadillac Series 62 Coupe

I'll do some digging on this. As a note on the photo with caption, The 50th Golden Jubilee was in 1946. Bill France noted on the left in the photo is Bill France, founder of NASCAR. The building in the first photo was on Academy Street between W. Washington St and W. McBee Ave. In the late 1970's I worked three blocks from there. The buildings are now gone, but I remember them. I think I had a convertible top replaced at a trim shop that was in those buildings in the '70's.

Right now it's a 2013 Cadillac ATS. Last summer on one day I left Charlotte, NC at 3:00 AM for Atlanta and then Auburn, IN. Arrived at Midnight. 920 miles. My one day record. Past long trip favorite cars are 1967 Lincoln and 1978 Chrysler Cordoba.

Based on 10 years ago, if the car was originally sold in the US and later imported too Canada, there would be no duty. If the car was originally sold in Canada, there would be duty. Historic documentation of the car is critical.

You're right. Through the teen's and twenty's it was recommended to wash your car with a bucket of water with a cup of kerosene in it. Don't hose it off, let it dry on there. Here's my 1921 Maxwell after a kerosene wash. It's first wash in 20 years. Yes, it's dry after the wash in this photo. The paint is from the early 1950's.

There are three things we never have enough of in this hobby: Time, Money and Space.

Call AACA National and ask to speak to Pat Buckley

Congratulations. Looks like a good plan.

Hi John, The Chairman of the Race Car Certification team can answer all your questions. His team not only certifies the cars for AACA Judging in the Race Car Class, but they also are the judges of this class at the AACA Nationals.

The gauge is at atmospheric pressure when it is at zero, so you don't need to subtract the 14.7. I think 110.25 is the answer.

Great video Wes'

It should be in the factory service manual.