61polara

Check the wire from the coil to the distributor for internal breaks.

I don't believe the owner is a member of AACA or participates in this Forum.

I've talked to Todd as well about this Lincoln and will be recasting the steering wheel for him while the engine is out.

Hi Peter, That car is not sill around to my knowledge. It was my grandfathers. That's my dad on the front fender and his older sister on the running board. I do have a 1921 Maxwell touring that was restored in the 1950's. The engine is stuck and I'm trying to free it. I'll be glad to help on anything I can.

Thanks Matt. I was just going to reply. Dan, feel free to contact me to discuss your steering wheel. dave@danddautomobilia.com

Here is a picture of a 1919 Maxwell taken about 1928. The wheel rims appear to be lighter than the black wheels so I believe they were cadmium plated. Silver would be a good representation of that.

Sorry, Cheryl and I will not be at Gettysburg. I had three other judges from HNR talked into it. But now they have all decided to stay home. Oh well.. Phillip, Tom Gibson and I as well as at least one other Hornets Nest Region members will be in Gettysburg. You and Cheryl should be too!

Also, as well as I remember, after you have recycled a nearly full tank, you would move that tank to a charging station to recharge a car using the recycled R-12.

"So this small duct is the reason they are saying that the sedan carpet will not fit the convertible?" This is the duct for the rear heat. Both the sedan and convertible have this duct. Trust me, my '67 convertible has '67 sedan carpet that I pulled out of a salvage yard car around 1980 and fits perfectly. There is no difference. Your supplier made his pattern from a sedan and assumes it won't fit a convertible. Order the carpet. If it doesn't fit, it won't fit a sedan either.

Yes, Keiser31 you're correct. It can be an SE and R/T. I should have done more research. This just shows that documentation is the key to the value of this Challenger.

I believe this car is an SE not an R/T. The car should be one or the other. The SE emblem is clear on the C pillar and SE's came standard with vinyl tops. An SE could receive any available engine option. Much more documentation is needed on this car before it can be declared a factory R/T.

They are the same and the '67 sedan carpet fits perfectly in the '67 convertible. I've done the swap. Seats are the same as well, front and back interchange between the sedan and convertible.

Radial tires on non-radial rims will cause this sometimes.

This is the type choke you should have with a rod from the arm to the choke arm on the carb. This was a very advanced system for the day as it is an electric choke. Pressing the accelerator pedal does not engage the choke. There is a wire coming out of the top of the choke connected to the starter relay which engages the choke when you press the start button. The bi-metallic spring inside slowly releases the choke as the engine warms up.

It seems that this car does have Fluid Drive with the Vacamatic transmission. Will the shift leaver move into the first gear position? If so, the first gear blocker plate has been removed. This is not a problem. The factory shop manual gives the procedure. The car can be driven as a three speed manual or as a semi-automatic buy only using the third gear position. However, the fluid drive cars used a smaller clutch than the true manual transmission MoPars. Slipping the clutch to start the car rolling will decrease the life of the clutch. It's better to release the clutch while the car is stopped and then accelerate.

I would have a large brake pedal and a smaller clutch pedal. The clutch pedal should say "Safety Clutch". Also, you could start the car, put it in third, keep your foot on the brake and release the clutch. The engine should not stall. Good luck on your purchase. They are great driving cars.

Bob, We're still curious...does your car have a fluid coupling, making it a Fluid Drive car?

Fluid Drive (the coupling) was standard equipment on all 1941 New Yorkers with manual or Vacamatic transmission. Does your horn button say Fluid Drive as well or is it plain? Researching the 1941 Chrysler shop manual, it appears that the 8 cylinder cars used a three-speed transmission with overdrive. Low gear was blocked out, so they drove the same as the 6 cylinder underdrive cars. This transmission had an overdrive lockout knob which when pulled out locked out overdrive and the driver would have only second and third gear, with no automatic upshift. The normal drive position was with the knob in. Normal driving would be in the "Drive" position or third gear, starting in third and upshifting to third overdrive. The shop manual further states that if the owner desires first gear, to remove the blocking plate. This would provide a full three speed transmission with overdrive. If you have a fluid coupling, I believe the low gear blocking plate has been removed. Based on this, if your car has the fluid coupling, then having a rear bumper that says "Fluid Drive" is correct.

What I've generally found looking at used trailers is that the sellers are asking very high prices, close to new cost, they need all tires replace and the brakes repaired and many times the lights as well. Shop around.

I think you are right on this one. For basic machanics it's not that much different than your '78 other than there are points in the distributor. You may not have the AC working or can't put the top down for now but it's a work in progress. You will learn a lot from this car.

Sorry, posted to the wrong thread.

Paul, this is the black hole of tire sizes. There is a process to get alternate tires accepted for judging. It's outlined in the Judges Manual. You need to have letters, emails from two major antique tire suppliers stating that your requires size is not available. Send these letters to the VP of Class Judging along with a request to use a specific alternate size tire. You will receive a letter with the decision. If approved, you should show the letter to the team captain at each AACA National going forward and you will not receive a deduction for those tires.

Gary, you are confirming my thoughts that this is an early '37 style wheel that was replaced by wheels with a horn ring. It is slightly different from the '36 steering wheel in that the "bumps" on the spokes are like round steel rods rather than the more styled ones on this wheel.

It sounds like you need to clean the contacts on the driver control switches.

Thanks Gary, You have gone through some very detailed items. I've seen the '37 brochure and believe it is that wheel. I've found the same wheel through Google searches described as both a '36 and '37 Buick steering wheel. In the photo's I've found that appear to be this wheel. the inside of the hub is the same as the one I'm trying to identify. I agree that it looks very close to a Packard wheel, but Packard wheels of that period had painted not chrome hubs. Here is a discussion on HAMB asking to identify the same style steering wheel. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-identify-banjo-steering-wheel-late-30’s.1130903/ Here's a photo submitted there identifying it as a 1936 Buick wheel. I don't think it's a '36 but the photo does show the horn button.