61polara

Because of their flexing, radial tires will give much greater mileage than bias-ply tires, but belts seem to separate and the tire starts cracking at about 5 years of time. Bias-ply tires tend to last close to 10+ years before they age out due to cracking.

Guys, thanks for all your replies. I have a local battery shop that can make up the correct cables for me.

Thanks for your comments. I just wanted to put this out here for comments. I had already planned on removing it as well as the 12v radio which was installed. Does anyone have a correct radio delete plate for a '41 Continental?

Actually this setup was rather well done. Large 6v cables carry the voltage to the starter. I do plan on removing it. This may have been done to power a 12v aftermarket radio installed years ago, which I plan on removing as well.

I believe it's a 1919 because of the wide vents on the hood. Colorization shows a good example of the Blue-Black factory color.

I just purchased a 1941 Lincoln Continental Coupe that has a 6/12v battery set up using two 6v Optima batteries, a huge solenoid and some form of electrical unit attached. I'm use to the set up of the old 6/12v batteries with two 6v batteries in one case with a solenoid on top of the case to connect the two for 12v starting and 6v running. Is someone selling this setup so I will know where to get replacement parts. Also, what is the purpose of the electronic unit beside it. It appears to have diodes inside. This is also posted in the AACA Technical Forum.

I just purchased a 1941 Lincoln Continental Coupe that has a 6/12v battery set up using two 6v Optima batteries, a huge solenoid and some form of electrical unit attached. I'm use to the set up of the old 6/12v batteries with two 6v batteries in one case with a solenoid on top of the case to connect the two for 12v starting and 6v running. Is someone selling this setup so I will know where to get replacement parts. Also, what is the purpose of the electronic unit beside it. It appears to have diodes inside it.

Back on topic.....The moral of this is don't buy your tires from an upholstery shop.

Put a set of Coker bias ply tires on it with tubes.

That's not the date code. The date code is only 4 digits. That is the tire serial number, which does not contain the date code.

There should be a turnbuckle attached to the overcenter spring. That adjusts the tension for the clutch to return.

And what is your price? Maybe someone would call if you listed a price.

The cost to have the plastic recast on one of these wheels is about $2000. This is the smaller shaft wheel as it's from a DeSoto. It's the same wheel for 6 cylinder Chryslers. The 8 cylinder Chryslers have a larger hub and steering shaft. The ring in the hub outside the horn button is chrome plated steel. This one looks good. Plating of this ring is extra cost. I've had a set of these rings made in stainless for future recastings of this wheel. If there are no cracks or crazing on this wheel, it's not a bad price considering the cost to recast this wheel.

There should be a clutch return spring to pull the clutch pedal back.

I agree, 1978

It's not 1978, maybe 1979, but better pictures would help identify like a full picture of the wheel.

Post this in the Lincoln section below and I think you will get the answers you need.

You've been around here for a long time. Always enjoy your posts; they remanded me of what I was doing at your age. Love those Imperials

Interesting collection of materials. I've bookmarked the site. Funds for this activity are limited, they should consider joining the efforts of the AACA Library which has a much more extensive and comprehensive collection.

The one on my '60 was a domed standard freeze plug that was dimpled to expand it and then it was staked in place. I had to grind the stakes marks out to remove it and restaked the new plug.

I had to replace the plug in my '60 Buick. It took a standard size flat freeze plug. Drop it in and stake it. Easy fix other than having to pull the manifold.

I understand you will have to change the crank shaft in the engine.

Not the same steering wheel.

This tread is 19 years old. Why don't you post a new tread here with your question. Not many people want to scroll through two pages of old posts to find your question. BTW stay with the original points. When Petronix fails, your dead in the water. With points you can limp home or file them on the road.

Before you replace the shocks, have you filled them with fluid. Use hydraulic jack oil and top them off. I don't see any signs of leaking, so they should be good. After you fill them, bounce the car to bleed the air out of the shocks.