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jim1941

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  1. That's good advice. Will make a point to check under the cap every so often. I'm getting a whole new core and he's beefing it up for more capacity than new. Amazing, I found a recent youtube video of a radiator restoration on a '77 Pacer, I think it's called "on the road again". Certainly perfect viewing for me at this moment. Jim
  2. Thanks to you both. NOW I get it, I didn't see the hose going all the way down to the bottom of the overflow tank. That same hose flows both ways; overflow and suction back to the radiator. The overflow tank IS where I add coolant. The question came about because I pulled out the radiator today due to a small leak and am going to bring it to my favorite rad repairman. As requested, a few photo's. It's a bare bones model, but nicely preserved. I'm going to see if someone somewhere can put in A/C.
  3. I feel like this is a dumb question, but here goes... Have a '76 AMC Pacer, my first antique car new enough to have a plastic radiator overflow tank. What I don't understand is why it has "add" and "full" lines marked on the side. I see no return line to the radiator, so why does that range matter? Can't see how the level would ever rise and fall and why the cap on top as if to add coolant? Jim
  4. Jim again, I stumbled on an eBay full antenna assembly "for sale" with photo's. Now I can see how it all goes together and comes apart. Regards, Jim
  5. Does anyone have experience with replacing the outside gasket for the roof top radio antenna base? How does it come apart? The inside turn knob has a little hole that looks like a set screw access, but closer inspection looks like some kind of gray colored composition in there. Before I get too aggressive, thought I'd ask for guidance if anyone can help. I have the replacement gasket. Thanks, Jim
  6. 1961 Imperial Speedometer problem. My red thermometer type speed indicator has suddenly disappeared. Just before, had to replace a power steering oil hose and then carefully blew out the engine area with compressed air and did a light cleaning and wiping. Also, tightened the auto pilot unit that seemed too loose on its bracket, but it has never functioned for the 15yrs I've owned the car. After that, the first time I took the car for a ride I noticed the speedometer had no red line showing at all. I looked at the speedometer cable in engine area and nothing changed. Makes me think I did something to make it go out, but what? Any ideas on where to look? Jim
  7. Thanks for the info Craig. I may need parts in the future and don't want any doubts about my brake system. Still getting used to the car and working out the bugs. I haven't adjusted the brakes because they were working great until the fluid loss. It is looking like the leak was from the base of that unsecured brake light switch. I'm ready to test the car when I get time. Jim
  8. Jim again. Upon closer inspection, lots of bubbling paint around the brake light switch and looks like ground zero for the leak maybe. Switch is located just across from the master cylinder but not seen in photos. Recently, had a service center put in a new brake light switch since car was there for some other work. Tested to see how tight it was put in. Can't say it was loose, but I was able to tighten it a fair amount, so now wondering if that's where my fluid loss is coming from. Anyway, I am still asking if there should be a gasket on the master cylinder fill cap. And.... any other thoughts you might have. Thanks again
  9. Haven't had my car long and still learning mechanicals. Brake pedal went way too low to floor. Took off master cylinder filler cap and found it nearly empty. Didn't take a whole lot to refill it, but noticed an O ring used as a filler cap gasket. Didn't like the way the cap came off (spongy) and don't think this is right. Should there even be as gasket on the cap? Also, please notice in photo's the paint loss off to the side of master cylinder. I think brake fluid would do that. Master cylinder itself appeared to be dry. Maybe spraying out of the top? Thanks for advice. Jim
  10. Wiper is fixed and working great. Sprocket that holds wiper arm had to be removed, then center shaft pounded out. This was made easier by soaking for a day in a little cup filled with PB Blaster. Chains get attached to wheel and then inserted into tower pointing up to the top. Chains hang down on each side and get attached to pivot arm after reinstalling that easily removed mechanism... and so on.
  11. Thanks for the input. I'm getting an education on this one and mostly from Mr. Fliken the Wiper Guy. He's been a tremendous help. My chain is fine, he says they almost never break. It's the other pieces that are all pot metal. Also there are TWO chains in there. My one side fell out of the little nook it tucks into. See photo; it's the one on the right. I was able to lower it down into its catch, but now the problem is how to keep it there. I may devise a little wedge to gently pound in. Also, NOW, looking at my own photo, I'll bet one of the chains should be wrapped (spun) around before attaching the second. My first step was to look for past posts on this subject and didn't find any, so maybe this will help someone down the road. Jim
  12. Jim again. I did hear back from wiper parts seller and Buick did use different wiper parts between the different models of the same year, so I'll have to be careful. Amazing they did that with something very few buyers would even notice.
  13. Hello, My 41 Buick LH Drivers Side wiper has not been working. Right side is good. Got into it today and found a piece of broken chain laying outside mechanism. Removed unit from car and see that the chain broke way up inside housing in area where wiper arm attaches. Can this be fixed? I don't see access. Am thinking a replacement is more likely. If yes, I found someone on eBay selling a set but they're advertised for a Series 42 with part number 79403 on the LH arm. (I see their part number in the photo, so no mistake) I have a series 40 and my LH arm part number is 79043. Everything looks very similar to mine in photo's. Did Buick use different wiper parts in their different models? My Series 40 is a Sedanette Model 46S.
  14. Thanks for the input everyone. Interesting to find out there are no tubes in these tires. My spare is a very old black wall tire that was completely flat. I've added air today and will watch it. Jim
  15. Have owned my 41 Buick for about a month. Trying to order new radial tires, but all Diamond Back 16" are unavailable at least until August they guess. Seem to remember reading an older thread on this site that Coker radials can be trouble. Does anyone have an updated opinion or know where I can likely get good tires now? See photo. Is this TUBED tire as bad as it looks and not to be driven? If opinions say it's ok for short trips, I could wait. Thanks, Jim
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