Zimm63

Any suggestions as to the best source, or is everyone selling the from the same original manufacturer? Do any of them come with the bends in the right place, or is this figure it out yourself territory? I have a set from a well thought of shop that aren't that great. The good news is that's a big box of stuff emptied. If its trash, its trash, but I'd like to get the trunk put back together. Whats out there?

I've had a few cars that I would have like to do that with...………...

I wonder if there are any cars left with roll up windows. Used to be you could buy basic vehicles. My first truck was s 67 GMC short bed stepside. 6 cylinder, three on the tree, rubber floor mats. No radio. Probably the bottom of the line or very close to it. It was well used when I got it, rusty as could be, and I ran it for 10 years until it finally was just done. Way too far gone to fix. Most simple vehicle I have ever owned. Miss it yet.

MIne went bad some years ago. Couldn't figure out why I was hearing an exhaust leak at the top of the engine. Ed set me straight. Make sure you use top quality gaskets when you put the manifold back on. I didn't and the hole that restricts exhaust flow burned through and caused fuel to boil in the carb. Yes, I had the stainless plate in place. Took a while to figure that out too. Fortunately, R&R the manifold is an easy job.

Interesting. I have one of Tony Gentilcore's bars on back of my 63 along with a Jamco bar on the front per his suggestion. The difference is noticeable and the car definitely stays flatter in the corners. Wondering how this one might compare.

I was able to remove them from my 63 using a paint can opener. The kind they give away with a gallon of paint at the hardware store. It has just the right hook on the non beer can opener end to get up behind and pull. The body manual shows where and how. They snapped right back on when I got the car home from the paint shop. You may have different results with your 73, but I don't think Buick changed that design much over the years.

Some years back I had a conversation with Carmen Fasso (I think) and asked if a 401 could be bored to 425. His response was 63-64 used different castings for the two motors, but 65 could be bored. It makes no sense that. GM would have used different castings, except they did those kinds of things. For what its worth.

Impressive.

Pictures show some wood in the doors. Looks to be an extra zero in the opening bid amount.

Enjoyed it a lot, but it has faded a bit in recent years. Guess we'll never know if the NSU Prinz makes it back onto the road.

Take the four screws out shown in the picture above. There should be two holes to accept the puller bolts underneath, if memory serves. That assumes you have the standard wheel. Check the manual for more information.

Holy overkill, Batman!

My slim Jim has come in handy many times.

So Matt, those damn L60s would explain why I broke the rear, tranny, engine, etc on my Camaro as a kid? Nothing to do with it only having two throttle settings? As in on and off? I got real good at changing clutches on that car. Outside in the winter too.

I thought a simple denial was sufficient to address any wrongdoing these days. Appears to work for some.

Probably not a real issue, but when you increase the pressure and distribution of the evaporust in the engine, are you confident none of it can get past a gasket? Don't want any in the cylinders or elsewhere.

They were great little trucks, but tended to dissolve over time. Especially on the East coast.

I am not comfortable in a car with out seat belts. Period. Problem with allowing perfect freedom to kill or maim yourself is I end up paying the bill, not the idiot who generally is to much of an idiot to have a job, much less adequate health insurance to cover the head injury caused by failing to wear a helmet when riding a motorcycle. Shouldn't have to try to outlaw stupid, but if we don't, stupid will be even more of a way of life for some people.

My next project will be a TR2 retrofitted to be RHD. All necessary parts have been collected over the years. Why? For the hell of it. Why not? If I hate it when its done, easy enough to change back.

I think you have scared the OP off, he has not been back. Easy to flip a $1,000 car for $500. Not $500 profit, $500 loss. Given the elementary level of the questions, that would be the expected outcome in my book. Never could figure out why people think TV is real.

If you are working on a 63, that brake light switch can fail. Mine did.

Sears was the Amazon of the analog world.

Ummmm. I'm a little foggy on this right/wrong thing, but end up wrong a lot of the time. Tom- can you be more descriptive of how the gaskets can be installed incorrectly? Knowing that, I assume the correct way is simply not the wrong way as there are only two choices.

Fat retaining ring is now in my pile of interesting stuff that might find another use. NOS ring was installed as per the original: Wide part toward the bearing.

OK, test drive done and improvement noted. Still not perfectly smooth, but with the cam in the motor I'm not sure it ever will be. What is gone is the vibration in my butt that was bothersome. I did check the endplay on the axles and got 14-15 thousands of movement on each side. Only theory I can come up with is that's in the bearing for reasons stated above. I wasn't able to feel anything in the bearing before it was assembled, but the axle gives more purchase and leverage to detect movement. Chasing this down involved a couple little things beyond the driveshaft. None of them may have been the problem, but its good to have them fixed. To recap: Center bearing was bad- replaced in revulcanized mount from Steele. Found bad yoke on rear driveshaft- yoke replaced with used one and rear half balanced. Drove the car for several months and was noticing vibration at 50-55 Changed out 8 year old tires- no improvement in vibration, but it was time for them to be gone. Rebalanced drive shaft as a unit- no help. If anything that made things a bit worse. While pulling the driveshaft back out, noticed there was play in the front yoke to the transmission. Measured out at 20 thou + Replaced front yoke with new, replaced rear bushing in transmission. Rebalanced driveshaft with new yoke. Tech noted that there was movement in the rear section that he had to resolve. Had trans mount revulcanized by Steele. Refurbished one was 1/4" thicker than the oily squished looking original. Pulled rear axles to check bearings- right one was dry, noisy, and had detectable movement with finger pressure. Replaced both rear bearings with NOS parts. That brings me to today. All of this took a number of weeks as parts were sourced, Steele did their thing with the mount, etc. The trans yoke even had a brief trip to Hawaii thanks to the USPS. I may still set up the tools and measure the alignment of the driveshaft as described in the manual. I have the tools, so why not? May as well take some time to see if I can get this thing dead nuts on. Buick obviously didn't think much of the set up as they changed it in 64. Wonder why the 3 U Joint shaft was Riviera only to start with? Probably never know. Thanks for the help and advice. Couldn't have gotten this done without it.