Zimm63

Had an 84 with the 4100. Major mistake on my part. Great looking cars, didn't know they had a year with the good engine.

Congrats. Mine is running about 50 degrees at the vents. Did you charge it by eying the bubbles, or with a machine?

I'm fine with Cheapass, which is how my wife describes me.

Spent a few moments with your Bride this evening in Ocean City. Lovely lady. She told me Tom was coming down to see if he can help with your AC. Hope it goes well.

I am going to vist Gene with my little vacuum pump in hand to see if he has a good one.

Guidance as to how to open it up would be welcome. It appears that the plunger end is inserted into the plastic body and retained by tiny lugs. Can it be twisted to remove? I need to set up my big lighted magnifying glass and have a look. Working in a half done shop makes things harder.

Trick is finding a good one. Mine is definitely bad. Can't get any flow through it with the Mity vac.

Will there be on site registration? The meet is almost local for me, but scheduled for days that are problematic for me. My schedule is normally pretty flexible, but there are some days that I simply have to be on site. Trying to figure out how to get there for at least a day.

Any best source for a new cover, or are they all from the same original maker these days?

I would suggest moving this question to the Riviera board. Lots of expertise there.

63 Riv has three separate vacuum switches. No rotary set up that I can see.

New Mity Vac ordered to replace my crusty old one which does not have a gauge and is missing most of the adaptors. This is a solvable problem. Just going to take some time to work through it.

OK, replacement switch did not cure the problem. First the switch: I can blow 6-56 through the outlet side, exiting the inlet (the direction air would flow under vacuum) but it will not activate the diaphrams. I could not blow liquid through the old switch, so I guess I am better off- but its not operating the diaphrams. Where I sit right now: If I disconnect the inlet side of switch one and connect it to the outlet side (bypassing the switch) the diaphrams move and all air is through the dash vents. In my thinking, this should be the same as if the switch worked properly save any vacuum loss in the switch. I can feel, and hear, strong vacuum on the inlet side, but almost none on the outlet side. Question: Is it possible that my original diaphrams are so stiff that the vacuum loss in the switch is enough to keep things from operating? Figure this out, and then we can talk about whether 60 degrees at the center vent with condensation is correct. I suspect not.

Wow. I have that set up on the shelf and debate whether to put it on my 63. For that $$, I might let it go and stick with the single carb. I also have a new Offenhauser dual quad mainifold, but don't hear people on this board talking about them. Is anybody running one and how does it compare to the stock dual quad?

Mine is still STV. for the moment, I think all that is wroing is the failed switch. The charge may be a bit low, but that can be checked when I lay hands on an R12 machine.

Adjusting the switch presumes the switch is working, which mine is not. Gene is sending me a replacement. With any luck it will be working fine by the weekend.

No joy with spraying it out. Thought so for a moment when the spray came through, but then it stopped up tight. Anyone have a thought as to where to lay hands on one? I guess I could go down the list in the Review.

Working through diagnosing why my AC won't blow through the dash vents. It used to work, but stopped last summer. All of the connections are correct (I checked). Applying vacuum directly to #1 and #2 verifies that they operate. After futzing around for a bit, I ran a line from the manifold directly to the outflow side of the #1 switch and things worked as they should. That's great for now, but doesn't fix the problem, which appears to the be #1 vacuum switch. Are these things available anywhere? Is it worth while to take it out and run carb cleaner or something through it? All advice appreciated.

I installed a waldron's "imposter" with stock pipes and resonators a couple years ago. Very happy with it. They have also reproduced the hangers which fit with no problems.

When I am running my blast pot, I have a water separator on the line from the compressor and another directly mounted to the inlet at the pot. I don't usually have moisture issues, but its been a few years since I ran it.

Friends of mine Dad provided them with a Mercury Comet, AKA the Vomit. Ugly and slow is a great combination for teeenagers. I'm sure their Dad was laughing every time they pulled out in it. Got wrecked eventually.

1968 Dodge Dart. 273 with a tourqueflite. Dad's car.

On another note, where did you advertise your MG? My first car was a 1960 and I have the bug for anoher one.

Thanks for the pictures. Exactly what I needed. From what I see, both hoses should route under the AC bracket which means I need to tighten up the bend on the 3/4 inch hose. I swear I had that clip among the debris left in the trunk by the previous owner, but did not locate it in the box o Buick stuff I thought it might be in. Need to look more. Another question is raised by the pictures. What is the device that looks like a mini vacuum canister that pushes on the throttle? Mine was not installed and appears to be broken. Is it some sort of idle control? Where can I get one?

Does anyone have a picture showing the routing of the heater hoses across the top of the motor? I have a 3/4 hose running from the water pump across the top of the AC bracket (where it is pinched by the air cleaner) to the connection of the heater core. There is a 5/8 hose from the lower heater connection under the AC bracket to the connection point on the crossover. The valve has 5/8 in and out. Should both hoses be 5/8? Should both run under the bracket? That would require a sharp bend at the front.