Zimm63

Does anyone have a picture showing the routing of the heater hoses across the top of the motor? I have a 3/4 hose running from the water pump across the top of the AC bracket (where it is pinched by the air cleaner) to the connection of the heater core. There is a 5/8 hose from the lower heater connection under the AC bracket to the connection point on the crossover. The valve has 5/8 in and out. Should both hoses be 5/8? Should both run under the bracket? That would require a sharp bend at the front.

Check the coil. When I first got mine it would die when I stepped on it. Bad coil. Recently had the replacement go bad (18 years doesn't sound like a long time). Car warmed up but was running bad, spitting and cutting out. Bad coil.

Tom got my AFB working after I futzed around with it several times. Man knows his stuff.

Thanks Tom, hadn't really thought of it that way. I have a brand new valve (correct valve) and figured I would just install it. There is no valve now, and hasn't been one since I owned the car. Gone into the mists of time, I guess. Still have the question about the hose. The link wire is pretty obvious, unless I am missing something.

As part of the process of getting my AC working well, it occurred to me that installing the heater valve may help as it would keep hot water out of the heater core when I wasn't actually using the heat. There is no valve in place now. I have the correct valve. and the screws are in place to mount. From what I can see, I need to make a stiff wire to connect the valve actuating arm to the cable end post on the heater door actuating arm. Is that correct, and is there anything special about hooking that up? I do need to find the right screw to secure the wire on the heater valve arm, but that should be a hardware store item. Second, the bend from the outlet side of the valve to the inlet side of the heater core is a pretty sharp bend. I would guess that the original used a formed hose. Is such a hose available? If so, where? If not, how have others set this up so as not to restrict the flow? Once I get this fixed, then I can move onto why the vacuum motor isn't opening properly and allowing airflow through the ducts on the dash. It used to work, but doesn't now. Little bit by little bit.

They were square on my 63.

Sorry, few hundred miles south. Fiddled around a long time before hitting on the right tool. It was a freebie that came with paint at the local hardware store. If I remember right, reach up from the bottom side and hook the end. Once it starts, it comes right off. Snaps back on. The other end of the tool is a bottle opener, which is handy too. You can also open a paint can with it, but whats the fun in that? Last thing I took off before paint and first thing I shined up and put back on.

Body manual shows how to get them off. I used a paint can opener with a little hook at one end. Worked like a charm, once I figured it out.

I have a bunch of KB 2 parts. Among them is a shortblock with (allegedly) 20K miles. I also have an complete engine in a truck that was a good runner, but hasn't been run in 15 years. Where are you?

They followed up on my request for Stromberg 175 parts. Glad I saw this.

I used a universal steering wheel puller on my 63. No drama.

Did you fool with the off choke idle? Is it possible that it needs to be sped up a bit to keep running when you kick off the choke? I can vouch for telriv's work. He did my carb when it just wouldn't cooperate with me. Fixed it right.

Even better, your wife should read this thread over a couple times. Lots of people here with lots of experience. Thats a couple hundred dollar parts car in most areas of the country.

Trusts are useful in keeping minors and irresponsible adult children from doing very stupid things with an interitance. You need a better advisor.

Thank you for your service. Now some Dutch uncle advice from a guy who has been fooling with cars on the low end for 40+ years. First- fund your kid's 529 plans. Greatest legacy you can give them is an educaiton with no debt. Second- fund your retirement plan. Your kids really won't want you lliving in their spare room. Third- fool with old cars, but if you are on a budget you need a space and skills. Skills can be developed (mine have) but you need to have some. I will second others as to inputs/outputs by offering this blunt statement: If your intention is to restore a car to make money, you will not make money. Nope, nada, will lose money. Period. The only real way too make money restoring cars is to have other people pay you to restore theirs. That gets back to skills etc. Sure, every once in a while somebody finds a gem, gets it cheap, and makes a buck. That is rare however, and the car you describe needs everything. If you really have the fever, get a driver as others have recommended. That will give you a taste and still be portable enough that it can move with you as your career takes you to new places.

Might be worth a stop in at your nearest PA MVA office to ask them what paperwork you will need.

62 with a 63, bought 20 years ago.

Looking for a source for Sromberg parts. Joe Curtio doesn't have what I need. Any other sources?

Thanks for showing me the way. Need to do mine.

Had mine repaired by CJ Lane in North Carolina. 336-922-1873

It would be interesting to put this piece side by side with one of the reproductions available. I got mine from CARS and they are very nice. Way better than my crusty old ones, but wonder how they would compare.

Driving in February around here is a function of dry weather following a rain that washes the salt off the road. Cold isn't an issue as the heater works just fine.

Pulled the file. The lenses actually came from GM Obsolete in Phoenix. Purchase was in October 2012. For what its worth.

Quick update. Center bearing replaced in rebuilt mount from Steele. I used the NAPA bearing per Jim Cannon's recommendation. Changed out the U Joints and discovered a bad yoke. First shop couldn't find the yoke and offered to build a new rear section. Their guy had some health problems, so after 3 weeks pulled the parts back and went to another shop. They had a used yoke and turned the repair around in a day. Balanced and ready to go. Reinstalled the shaft (putting the spacers back under the mount was fun) and all seems to be well. No more bearing noise. No vibration that I can discern. For a bonus, I lubed the speedometer cable while I had it on the lift and was waiting for the mount. Speedometer is much smoother now. Still moves a bit, but less noticible. With about 100 miles on it, I think I can call this problem solved. Lots more little stuff to do.

Pretty sure thats where I got mine and they fit fine. Can look in the file if you need me to. My guess is there is probably only one source of reproduction, with multiple retail sellers.