Owen_Dyneto

Based on a 1934, drop the headlight switch and perhaps the hand throttle sector gear, loosen the packing gland, and push the brass tubes up the column enough to raise the horn button out of the way, allowing you to get at the wheel retaining nut.

The first generation 1934 oil cooler was prone to problems which were subsequently corrected. The 1935 and later are very reliable even after all these years. And if they do fail the answer is NOT to block them off but to replace the core with a shunt to permit the oil to continue to flow in the original path. This is absolutely essential. As to the just prior question about an overflowing carburetor, three common causes; (1) an electric fuel pump with excessive pressure, (2) a worn or failed carburetor needle and seat, or (3) a leaking (sunken) float in the carburetor.

Bill Hirsch had them reproduced and was selling them for years, don't know if he still has them available.

Glove box latches, 48-50.

I've got a pair of NOS tie rod ends in excellent condition that I've been told (but cannot guarantee) are for '28-'32 Cadillac except the V16. As a Packard guy these are of no future use to me and I'd like to see them back in circulation where they can be put to use. If interested contact me via a PM. These are Thompson Products and the only markings that I can see are "2R" and "2L". UPDATE: sold.

I've got a pair of NOS tie rod ends in excellent condition. I've been told (but cannot guarantee) that they are for '24-'28 Buick and '28-'32 Cadillac except the V16. As a Padkard guy they are not useful to me and I'd like to see them back where they can have a useful life. Contact me via a PM if interested. UPDATE: sold.

Often the two non-grounded terminals of the generator will be different sizes. If so the larger one is the armature and the smaller the field. If there is a 3rd it's probably a ground.

Ok, made some measurements and these are for a larger vehicle than yours. The bore threads are NF but hard to measure the diameter without knowing how much the OD is reduced by clamping and threads too far inside to gauge the tpi. Taper small end is 0.700, large end 0.810, length 0.955

My apologies, I know it's bad form to hijack a thread, but at least I'm part way on topic. Years ago I picked up these NOS tie rod ends at Hershey and have absolutely no idea what they fit - and I'd like to find an appropriate home for them. I assume thery're Moog as they have an "M" logo but the only other markings that I can find are "2L" and "2R". Anyone have any ideas on finding what application they are for? Of course I can take some measurements.

For new springs I'd try Eaton Spring, for many cars they were the OEM supplier and claim to build to OEM specifications.

Memory a bit distant but I recall 4 bolts.

No doubt the two large national Packard vendors have them, you can also try Pulfer & Williams.

Graphited cord or rings was the standard pump packing, even up until the late 30s for some makes. Its use should present no problems whatsoever with corrosion. Telfon is nice because of it's inertness and natural lubricity but it doesn't easily compress to form or shape. Use graphited product.

Setting aside the questions of 20:1 or 50:1 or other ratios, or Marvel Mystery Oil, 2-cycle oil either synthetric or some other "snake oil", the real question behind all of this is whether or not such oils in any way are beneficial or otherwise serve to compensate for the absence of tetraethyl lead. I'm prepared for anecdotal stories to the contrary but I suspect the answer is NO. But if it gives you peace of mind, can't hurt.

Use the spark plug lookup on the Autolite website, they identify current plugs for cars back to about 1900. For your Cadillac they specify Autolite 3076

Unclear just what you're looking for. You've pictured the cam followers (rollers and arms), are you looking for these or the actual lifters? Cam followers are typically rebuilt, you should be able to get new rollers and pins from Egge.

Reproduction door sill plates available thru Minnesota Packards (region of The Packard Club) as well as from DoorSills in North Haledon, NJ.

Nash was one of the last to use the old style universal using a rubber/fabric vulcanized disc as the attachment between the two yokes, I guess this is what the OP is calling a "flex' universal.

Even if you have only basic skills rebuilding a distributor is really a very simple job but if you're not up for it yourself, I can confidently recommend Jason Smith at AER - we advertises widely in the hobby. I don't recall if it was mentioned before or not, but in doing your engine rebuild check the valve guides and replace as needed. Otherwise your nice ground and finished valve faces and seats will have a shortened lifespan.

The one that comes to mind was on a '51 Patrician.

99.99% sure they are NOT Packard.

Depending on which unit you have, Automotive Restorations in Lebanon NJ has had some types remanufactured and repairs other types.

I would guess Eaton Spring has the specifications, they still manufacture replacement leaf springs for many cars back into the 30s and perhaps earlier.

There are probably exceptions but typical torque specifications for wheel lugs for most American cars between the 20s and the 80s is in the range of 80 - 95 ft-lbs.

Oiled mesh or the optional oil bath? Or would you take either?