Owen_Dyneto

Why not call Fort Wayne Clutch? They are about the biggest source of parts and information on clutches.

For that type of seal I've just purchased a new felt and inserted it into the old metal carrier. I purchased the felts from George at OlCar Bearing though I don't see any reason why you couldn't just buy sheet felt and cut your own ring.

My 34 Packard trip odometer functions the same as you describe for yours.

I very strongly recommend that you DO NOT continue to attempt to turn this engine over. Start a disassembly until the mis-fitted parts are identified and fixed. At this point all you can do by further efforts to start or rotate is damage.

I suggest you'd do better by listing your query in the Chrysler-specific forum on this site.

Try Ficken Wiper Service (www.wiperman.com), they supplied Trico 6½ blades for me a few years ago. Also there is a vendor in New Jersey who specializes in vintage wiper blades, Bob Crane, 309 Stoughton Ave, Cranford.

If those colors were chosen to replicate original standard colors then they would be Nassek Diamond Deep Gray and Pewter Pot Gray. You'd probably get more visibility if you posted this in the Packard section of this forum.

I rarely drive at night so I adjust my 3rd brush differently than has been recommended. I adjust for a maximum charge rate of about 5 amps at road speed for daytime driving. If I'm going to drive more than a few blocks at night, I readjust to about 5 amps at road speed with the lights on, and return to the normal daytime setting when nighttime driving is finished.

If you want shops that routinely turn out the top AACA and Pebble-quality restorations you should expect to be paying about $90 - $100 an hour in the NJ/NY/CT area.

Before you condemn the switch, check it again for function with the parking or headlights on. On many cars the trunk light is fed from the lighting circuit - after all who needs a trunk light in broad daylight?

Hold-harmless or similar agreements have become more and more common at car shows. Simply, the provider of the venue (landlord, property owner, etc.) simply wants assurance that he won't be sued for incidents that occur on his properly. All the major shows and events around here have had it for years and now it's use has spread to more local and smaller events. If that's all it is, just sign it and have a good time at the show.

Not necessarily. If they just tested to see if the generator produced an output, it would have passed the test.

Insurance issues aside for the moment, if you have a "historic" vehicle registration you also should consider what those limitations are. Here in NJ driving your car with a Historic registration to work would be a clear violation of the registration privilege. Now the chances of that actually being enforced should you be pulled over are slim, but should you during such a use have an accident which results in bodily injury, chances are good a lawyer for the damaged party would be rubbing his hands together with glee! With so many other legitimate activities during the week and most every weekend, it just wouldn't be worth the risk to me.

If you ground the field you bypass the regulator and the generator will put out it's maximum. This could happen in a number of ways, faulty regulator, broken insulation on the generator's field post, broken insulation on the field wire to the regulator that allows it to ground, internal fault in the generator including even replacing the generator label tag and using too long a rivet which penetrates the field winding and grounds it. Remove the field wire at the generator; if the generator output drops to zero the fault is between the generator and the regulator, if it continues to have max output the fault is within the generator.

Sounds like the field is grounded.

Symptoms indicate a grounded field.

Of course it has to be vented, the fluid level lowers and rises as the brakes are applied and released. Very often you will find the other end of the vent hole on one of the corners of the raised part of cap where you'd use a wrench. Copper washers can be found at Restoration Supply as well as other sources.

I have a very original '34 Packard Eight and believe all the glass is original, and laminate safety glass. There are no logos etched into the glass.

Startix

New Jersey doesn't yet allow year-of- manufacture plates yet they have made a concession; though officially a 2-plate state (front and rear) you only must display your historic plate in the rear and can use most anything in the front. NJ is a one-time very inexpensive fee for historic registration, good for as long as you own the car though every 3 years you must acknowledge that. No inspection of course, we (shamefully) barely have inspection on anything, even 1996 and back are now exempt and anything newer is only subject to emissions inspection. The written restriction for historic plates is limited to educational and display only though there seems to be no enforcement.

Depending on how well the substitute material matches the original with regard to flex properties you may have to recalibrate the spring/shim pack to match the OEM specifications. Best done on a distributor test machine like a Sun.

Remove the hood, the radiator support rods, hoses, etc. Then the headlight/fender support bar bolts. You might want to turn the headlights outward to provide a bit more space and lessen the chance to damage them. There is also one (or is it two?) threaded sltuds/nuts in the underneath cradle. Then you remove the shell, radiator and shutter assembly as a unit. And it's HEAVY. A matter of personal preference of course but the car is apparently an Eight - so plated shell and painted shutters would be how the vast majority of them left the factory.

Here's an uncommon coachbuilt on a non-Classic Packard chassis, a 115C by Pennock.

There are many examples of unique coachwork on non-Classic chassis; on Buicks the Lancefield-bodied '38 (?) Buick Special has been seen at many CCCA events, and so many others, Brewster Buicks to name just one. I find this Hudson Greater Eight by Murray, owned by an acquaintance of mine a few years back, particularly attractive. Another, I suppose you'd call it a series custom, are the Hayes bodied coupes found of '39 Chrysler, Desoto and Dodge. I believe Glaser bodied a couple of Fords in the 30s as well. And to answer Alsancle's question, yes the ex-King of Romania Packard has been restored. I have pictures and will dig them out later.

I'd very strongly recommend that you remove the oil pan and clean both it and the oil pump intake screen before considering starting the engine. And do it before you run the oil pump ! To not do so, even if you were to use a non-detergent oil for the initial start-up, is just begging for trouble down the line.