Owen_Dyneto

....there are a few folks left who know that 1938 was the one pre-war year there was no traditional Packard data plate....! A minor point perhaps, but that's not entirely true. The 1938 Packards produced at the Canadian plant continued to use the traditional metal plate.

In 1939 Packard's dealer in Riverside, CA was Riverside Motors, 3583 Market Street, Riverside CA.

You're speaking of drum brakes so they are brake shoes, not pads. The primary shoe, the one that first contacts the drum and transfers a rotational cam-type force to the secondary shoe, will be the front shoe and primary shoes typically have shorter lining length.

Nothing wrong with a rope seal, properly installed they will typically last the life of the engine.

Trico Visional wiper repair kits continue to be available from the Michigan region of the CCCA.

I have used Permatex's copperized head gasket sealant for decades and recommend it highly, never a do-over. It comes in aerosol so I hand the gasket by a hook and spray both sides just minutes before installing.

Autolite 303. And the ferrule unscrews so you can maintain the correct knurled thumbscrew connectors.

Try Autolite 303, that's what I have run for many years in my '34 Packard Eight, that plug performs perfectly in my engine. Also Autolite 308 a possibility.

I presume you already know that, while not inexpensive, you can purchase a correct reproduction Detroit Lubricator carburetor for your 902 Packard.

I don't entirely agree with Friartuck. On mid-30s and earlier cars where the filler cap is only 2 or 3 inches above the level of fuel in the top of the tank, a LOT of gasoline can spew from under the filler cap on turns. I see it regularly on my friend's 31 Pierce Arrow; reasonably sharp turns at nearly any speed can dump gasoline all over the rear apron, fender, and highway, His tank was serviced many years ago and the baffles removed.

Yes, the internally baffled tanks do present problems. And I agree with Rusty, once it starts it will never stop unless it's dealt with properly. I wish I could offer specific help, but all I can offer is assurance that it can be dealt with. My '34 Packard has the same 25 gallon, triple compartment tank and about 20 years ago I started picking up rust in the fuel filter. I took the tank to a nationally recognized premier restoration shop that specialized in prewar senior Packards. What they did or who they sent it to I do not know, but it was fixed and has remained trouble-free to this day.

Take a look at the rear view mirror on this '41 LeBaron; it mounts on the short cowl section between the hood and door. These Packard accessory mirrors for this era Packards were reproduced by Jay Fisher who unfortunately is no longer in the business and to my knowledge no one has bought his tooling. Whether Packard actually offered a mirror mount like this for the earlier cars I don't know but regardless it may give you an idea about an alternative place to mount the mirror.

Valve seat pilots and cutters. The correctly sized pilot was selected to fit into the guide and then the correct size and angled cutter used to cut the seat. Nice for historical purposes but more modern high speed stone seat grinders do a superior job.

Try Pulfer & Williams, now a part of LaVine Restorations.

SAE 90 gear oil GL-1, or SAE50 motor oil. Either is a reasonable duplicate of the original Bijur oil.

700 x 17 is correct for the Eight and Super Eight. The Twelve used 750 x 17. The logic? The Twelves weighed more.

Some additional Greenwich photos here: http://packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=19459&forum=15&post_id=192601#forumpost192601

Yes, it can and does happen. However, for every 100 times that someone has a problem and suspects that the chain has jumped, I'd guess that 99 of those times the problem was elsewhere.

If I sit behind the wheel for 2+ hours straight in our 31' Buick I don't like the idea of juicing the batter that much. It doesn't need it. So, do as knowledgeable drivers did back in the day, either (a) drive with the headlights on to prevent overcharging, or (b) use the 3rd brush adjustment to turn down the generator output.

Quite a few cars Bob, not all that unusual.

My take on the original question was that he was really asking how to attach the weights?

I don't know if this applies but the Packard 320 engine (1929-39) also had a connecting rod big end larger than the bore. These were serviced by dropping the rod bearing cap, pushing the rod up until the piston emerged, then removing the wrist pin so piston out from the top, rod from the bottom. Obviously the reverse to reassemble, need 2 people - one bringing the rod up far enough for the other to attach the wrist pin. Then just a normal ring compressor, tap the piston and rings down into the bore while the person below guides the rod onto the journal.

Automotive Restorations, Rte 22 West, Lebanon, New Jersey does all manner of vintage and classic engines. 908-236-6400, ask for Steve Babinsky.

Yes, it did gradually boil off or evaporate and you had to test and replenish during the winter. It was popular because it was inexpensive. And those cars that did have thermostats, for example the Pines Winterfronts, were 160 deg. F. thermostats.

Alcohol antifreezes were based on methanol, Zerone was the methanol companion product to Zerex which was ethylene glycol. Methanol-based antifreezes were still commercially available and used into the early 1950s. in addition to having to replenish frequently due to boil-off or evaporation, another downside was their damage to paint.