Owen_Dyneto

Been too long ago to remember the details of the small spring that keeps the cane in the default right side of the H pattern, but as I remember it was pretty intuitively obvious how it worked; no recollection of the small ball but just checking the parts book should resolve this. As to the pin, I would doubt very much that it was tapered and thus should press or tap out from either side; try it and if it resists too much, then try from the other side. I'd turn my new one to about 0.0015" larger in diameter than the cleaned inside diameter of the ball. If sloppy use silver solder as there is really very little stress on this piece, and none to speak of from left to right. Let me know if you need dimensional details of the OAL and end pivot edges.

Oil pressure with a warm engine is pretty much determined by bearing clearances and pump capacity; the external pressure regulator should be used to regulate the cold oil pressure which, if too high, can rupture the oil cooler core or oil filter, or both and if extreme can even blow out the bourdon tube in the oil pressure gauge. With a cold engine and whatever viscoity oil you intend to use, remove the acorn nut, loosen the lock nut, and with a large blade screwdriver set the pressure such that it does NOT EXCEED 60 lbs., assuming the internal condition of your engine allows that much pressure. A 34 Eight engine in good condition and so set should then deliver 15 lbs or more at a hot idle, and between 30 and 45 lbs at road speed. Anything significantly less than this indicates attention is required to the pump or bearings or both though the first thing I'd probably check if the engine hasn't been serviced recently is the pump intake screen which can be accessed by removing the cover plate which is adjacent to the oil drain plug screw.

Gosh, it's been decades since I had one of these apart, they usually never give trouble unless abused. As I remember, the pivot pin goes thru the center of the pivot ball in left-to right orientation; its a round pin which is milled on each end to a rectangular (not knife-edge) profile. There is I believe a small spring under the left side which keeps the cane at the right side of the 'H' pattern when at rest. There is another pin further down which as I remember serves to locate and retain the conical coil spring which holds the ball in the socket. If indeed your pivot pin is broken or badly worn, making a new one from round drill rod should be an enjoyable project, but I think I'd harden the ends. If you need more info or dimensions I can go take the cane out of my spare 34 transmission and examine in more detail.

Multi-viscosity lubricants appeared on the market a bit after these (1949) cars were made. In fact they were quite new in 1956 and deserved a special comment in the owner's manual. The absence of these lubricants was one reason why Packard (and others) recommended a heavier gear oil (for example SAE 140) in the transmissions and rear axles in the summer than in the winter (for example, SAE 90). I've been using a multi-vis gear oil, SAE 85/140, year-round in Packard rear axles and transmissions and overdrives for many decades and have never had a problem with any of these units.

I have a pair of NOS rebound bumpers for the 55/56 cars; all series use the same numbers and they differ from the 48-54. The larger one measures about 2-3/4 from base to tip excluding the metal mounting stub and the shorter measures about 2-1/4 excluding the rubber mounting stub.

Based on an unrestored and unmolested 34 Eight sedan, glove box brackets are painted gloss black and appear to have been painted after the fasteners were in place. I've owned this car for decades and never seen evidence of black-oxide finished fasteners. What body style and chassis is your 32?

Bracket, outer (rear) sleeve and other attaching hardware is painted gloss black, the shaft itself is unplated and unpainted. The knob should be chrome though I've heard some of the early ones were nickel plated.