Owen_Dyneto

Of course they were adjustable, and any truck shop that deals with solid front axle vehicles does this work routinely in the same manner it was done originally. Methods are tapered shims between the spring and axle perch, and bending of the front axle at the center. Pretty standard stuff.

1. The "green" or inorganic additive type, NOT the extended duty types (usually red in color) which are intended primarily for aluminum blocks and radiators. 2. Collector cars usually don't see 10,000 miles a year and thus should have their oil changed annually regardless of mileage; thus synthetics offer little if any advantage. Depending on the temperatures where you live and will be driving, a major brand 10-30 or 10-40 would be a good choice. "Snake Oils" are usually just that and if you're buying an oil that contains ZDDP, DO NOT add more. 3. Depends what's in the system now; if converted to silicone type, you must stick with it, ditto if conventional DOT 3 or DOT 4. They are NOT mutually compatible and a changeover from one type to the other requires a complete system flush and replacement of all the rubber components. 4. Not needed. 5. Don't know what's in it now, I'd change it and the filter and refill with Dexron ATF.

You should also check and adjust if necessary the headlight aiming. If you don't have information in your Chrysler owner's manual or other Chrysler documents, any Motor's Manual covering that era describes the method and specifications for most common headlamp systems. In my Motor's covering 1935-1949 it's on pages 94-95.

You might just try the standard diagnostic test; run the engine at atleast a fast idle and watch the ammeter while you BRIEFLY use a short jumper wire and ground the Field terminal at the generator or regulator to ground - don't leave it connected any longer than necessary. If while the Field terminal is grounded the ammeter shows a very healthy charge, your regulator is at fault. If it shows no charge the generator is at fault.

Ball & trunnion joints originally used a "fibre" grease which is pretty much NLA. And even if it were, today's greases are in general far superior. The front universal on postwar Packards with automatic transmission is the ball and trunnion type and we all use a modern hi-temp wheel bearing grease with good results.

According to the engine color chart on The Packard Club website (www.packardclub.org) the engine should be green. The chart is located in the Reference section (from the left-hand menu).

Assuming it's a 1938 and made in Detroit, there probably won't be a vehicle number to read on the cowl, 1938 ONLY used a decal which has probably turned to dust by now. Exception is the 1938 Canadian production which continued to use a metal tag to record the vehicle number.

Drum brakes typically had both a different lining length and different lining material on the primary and secondary shoes. When you look at older shoes you can often see the PRI or SEC on the side of the lining and the different COF was for a reason. Today's replacement shoes for collector cars generally have the same lining material on both shoes and that is a contributor to poorer performance than with the original materials, not to mention the asbestos replacement lining material. Fortunately you can still sometimes find PRI and SEC lining material in original asbestos in bulk but you'll have to cut, chamfer and install them on your shoes yourself - no brake shop will touch the job.

I suggest you contact the CCCA directly as there appears to be some conflicting info. While the list on their current website does not include the C-17, a list published by CCCA and dated August 2014 does indeed list the 34-37 Airflow Imperial Eight C-17.

The Chandler-Groves carburetors are generally reviled as just plain poor designs, most owners I know of trashed them years ago. I suspect if you check the 37/38 Shop Manual and Service Letters you'll find info on what Packard ultimately did to replace them, I believe Carter WA-1 was one of those choices.

Can't help with the cause of the problem but an electric choke was not factory equipment so no doubt was some later aftermarket feature.

I've got 3 or 4 extra Northeast caps for my 34; if I have more than 1 extra cap nut I'd consider parting with it, I certainly won't part with it if it's my only spare. But it's a pretty easy part to make if you have a small lathe and want to turn some plastic. Rather than Bakelite, I'd probably make it from black Nylon and press in a brass threaded sleeve.

At about the time the ethanol/gas was introduced I had occasion to drop the gas tank on my 34 Packard and I removed the shellac from the float, knowing that alcohol was a solvent for shellac. It's worked just fine since and that's been many years. I don't believe the cork float in the crankcase for the oil level sensor was ever coated - at least no visual evidence of that.

My 30s era Packard does not have a current regulator and I use the large commercial NAPA wet-cell battery. They typically last about 8 years and have far more CCA than an Optima. I really can't see going to a battery with less capacity that lasts about the same length of time as the wet-cell.

If you go to the Autolite website and plug in 1931 REO it indicates that their current plug recommendation is #388.

In terms of quiet performance I'd also be concerned with the internal construction. Some of those long, round mufflers, for example used on Packard Eights 33-36, contained an internal resonator chamber.

I've studied these numbers extensively. The use of theft-proof numbers began in 1929, 000050 the lowest known number to date, and ran thru 1956 in essentially sequential order. The only exception was a period during the beginning of the 1940 production when the numbers were not stamped, for unknown reasons. The 23rd series numbers approached 999999 and thus beginning with the 24th series Packard began with an alpha-prefix, "A" and 5 digits. The highest known number is D59XXX. Contrary to what was said previously in this thread, some very small portions of original records with these numbers do still exist but only for several hundred vehicles. For those with an interest there are two articles published in The Packard Cormorant which discuss these numbers and attempt to draw some conclusions from them. Of the many custom-bodied and export cars I've studied 1929 or newer, they all had a theft-proof number except for 1940 as noted. For a little more information, see http://www.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=2147

So the junior cars including the 1937 115 had hydraulic brakes. Ford40, not sure if you're asking a question (no ? mark) or making a statement, but yes - the 1937 115 had hydraulic brakes.

For vibration damper work you might contact these folks, they've done quite a few for me over the years, though none as early as yours. http://www.damperdudes.net/ FWIW, re your vibration, I had a elusive vibration in an early Packard; I was thinking all kinds of dire thoughts and it turned out to be simply a failing ignition coil.

The obvious would gentle application of an upholstery fabric cleaner, but try it first on a sample which is out of sight to make sure no ill effects with result. I've had decent luck having some stains removed but water stains can be stubborn.

If you've lost the wedge, a wooden golf tee, shortened as needed, makes a fine substitute. That's how I repaired mine some 25 years ago or more, and it's still as snug as new.

No problem if you can't find smaller jets, just close them off at the tip with some solder and then redrill to the desired size.

I absolutely agree with JWLawrence, going any other route is just begging for problems down the road, some of which could be severe.

I can't identify the application but based on the 6XX series of Delco distributors, it's application was prior to WW II.

Headlight shown appears to be from a 1937 Dodge or similar Mopar. Does the bed have the "scissor lift" to typical of coal trucks of that era? Love the truck!