Larry Schramm

While you are there, you might want to be sure your antenna has good clean connections and grounds. Could help your radio reception.

Must not have been a very popular option with so few made, or maybe someone saw the color combination in a movie? Interesting combination.

I would say required to control coolant flow evenly through the engine. Not that unusual. Sometimes you see them as part of the head gasket. I would definitely keep them and replace them if the do not survive the cleaning.

If you are really interested, Here 'ya go. Replacing a Small Block Chevy. Only an $8,000- $12,000 date. Maybe more. https://www.electrive.com/2020/11/02/gm-announces-electric-conversion-kit/

Can you post some pictures of your car and what you need? It helps.

Almost looks like a flag holder for a light pole.

Dave, Congrats to both of you. Are you going to do your honeymoon at The Old Car Festival in Sept? Larry & Joyce

Before you use this type of hub puller, be sure to put part of a drill the same size as the cotter pin hole in the hole. When you tighten the hub puller up, you can crush the end of the axle, damage the threads, and close up the cotter pin hole. Just take the correct size of drill to match the hole, put it in, cut it off and when done knock it out with a drift. It will save you a lot of work, time, and aggravation.

I just use the maximum tire pressure that is put on the side of the tire. This also gives you the most load carrying capability of the tire. Only downside is that you might get a little harsher ride, but it will give your better fuel economy. Last set of tires that I had on my Silverado I got 125,000 miles on the tires. They were Michelin LT tires.

Just a thought, I presume that the seal is for a shaft. If so, is the bearing that holds the shaft behind the seal tight, meaning within spec like a couple of thousands or is it worn. If worn it could be causing your problem.

Is there anyone coming to the Celebration of Brass at the Gilmore Museum this month that could bring a rim with bead& lock rings from the Chambersburg/ Hershey area? I will be at the show on Friday and could meet you then. PM me if you can. Thanks. RIM ON THE WAY.

It could be a bad ground. Those years grounds were legendary. First check the ground below the coil module. Also the grounds on the engine. Also known to cause problems is the crankshaft sensor. To check the coils get a spark plug spark tester and hook up to a coil tower and the spark plug wire to the tester and let the engine run for about 10 minutes. If no miss that coil is good. If it misses, bad coil. Is the mass air flow sensor a black one in the air intake tube or is it connected to the throttle body? If the round black on, tap on the sensor with the engine running. If the engine stumbles, bad Mass Air Flow Sensor. A few things to look at.

I too would recommend TimeCerts. As said, they are the recommended thread repair for GM aluminum block engines. They are solid inserting threads that have an shoulder on the insert that when the special tool is used to prep the aluminum part, the aluminum part has a depressed shoulder that the timecert goes down into. It makes a very good and strong repair. GM started using them in the aluminum blocks when the head bolts stripped out the threads. From left to right, the insert, correct size drill, tap for timecert threads in part, shoulder cutting tool, insert tool. Picture below.

Our Corvette too. Also has the best pedal it has ever had.

Through mergers, purchases, etc, Dupont is now called Axalta. Are DuPont and Axalta the same? Through later mergers the company became DuPont Performance Coatings (DPC), part of the American DuPont chemical empire, and was rebranded as Axalta Coating Systems after being purchased by The Carlyle Group in 2013

I too like trucks. Here is our '15 Buick truck. Our '18 Buick truck is in a shipping container for now.

My wife's first car was a RED '64 Corvair Monza 4-speed. Great car with radials. Handled great and was a lot of fun in the winter because it would go anywhere.

Sounds like another Frankencar. Too many individuals want to "re-engineer" and make the vehicle "better". They usually end up with a mess, not to mention the changes are forgotten and no documentation on what parts to buy when repairs are needed.

By 1910 almost all vehicles were multi cylinder cars and were started with a crank. The one and two cylinder vehicles were by then were a thing of the past. Cadillac had an electric starter in 1912 and Buick in 1914 for cars. Model T's I believe did not get a starter option until I think 1919. During this time most of the vehicles were 4 cylinder vehicles with the growing number of 6 cylinder vehicles. Vehicles with electric starters began to proliferate in the teens and eventually became standard equipment by the manufacturers to remain competitive in the car business.

On our car tours with the HCCA, VMCCA, and AACA we try to take our grandson on the tours with us. He is currently 7 and we took him on a tour in Georgia in March. That can be verified by Mr. Earl. He and the rest of the persons on tour we believe enjoyed the younger company. We try to take the grandsons every chance we can on tour. My daughter and her husband are scheduled to drive one of our vehicles for the Old Car Festival in September at Greenfield Village for the two day tour. As for the younger generation not too interested in the brass & nickel cars I believe that is because of two owners camps. One is "DON'T TOUCH" crowd. Self explanatory. "If I can not touch, then I am not interested" offspring. I have talked to some of these people that plaster that sign on their vehicles. The other issue is that with the younger crowd worrying about having a place to live, food on the table, kids, etc....life happening they do not have the disposable income for a brass car. Unless they have a parent(s) that will share and let them drive their cars it is tough. Look for me with my grandson at the Celebration of Brass at the Gilmore in July. We will be there on Friday with our '15 Buick truck. It will be just the two of us. He will be riding "shot gun" Just my opinion. PS: I need to change the tires on our "13 Buick as I wore the tires bald from driving the car that much. New skins this month.

Giving it some ether does not matter if up draft or down draft.

They should work fine. With the long electrode they are less susceptible to fouling. That is all that I and many others use in our old Buicks. Here at Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=318026&jsn=276

Champion 589 plugs work well in the old Buicks.

Congrats on your winning the much deserved award.

Does the car have the correct light bulbs in the lamp. If the wrong bulb, it could cause the light to blink. Also, does it maybe have an LED bulb instead of the incandescent bulb? That could cause the problem.