Larry Schramm

Welcome to the world of Buicks. You found the place for lots of helpful guys. As Brian said, post pictures of what you are working on because we will be able to tell the best avenue for your work/fixes.

Did you take the radiator from the frame? If not I would suggest that you check to see if you have the correct radiator. Looks like it is the wrong radiator.

Now that is a cool brochure.

Yes, Woolworths sold the sets, it was not the small 5 & 10cent store, but if I remember correctly was called Woolco? And yes they are the sockets mainly on the 1/2 inch set.

I remember doing just that at 2cents/bottle when I was in elementary school. Spending money.

That is easy. Not an item, but Friends.

I have used DexCool extensively in my Silverado which has a more miles that I would guess almost all of you. This is my tow vehicle along with daily driver. I have not had a problem with the coolant. I have been told the most important thing is to change at the recommended interval and keep the coolant jug to the full level which I do.

Nichole, It sounds like those owners own modified vehicles. Standard is to Chop, Channel, Small block Chevy, disc brakes on everything, change to 12 volts, etc... and the list goes on. IMO, take their advice with a single grain of salt, if that. Fix the car up to the original manufacturer's specifications as it came from the factory and you will enjoy "the experience" more than a modified car. Also doing a bunch of modifications may give you more confidence in the car and you might be tempted to "over drive" and do some things that might be unsafe. Just a thought. Last year alone, my Wife and I drove our 1913 Buick 1,860 miles on tours and all kind of roads, except no expressways, high speed divided highways, etc... Our car has rear brakes only controlled by steel brake rods from the brake pedal to the rear exterior drum brakes. Total surface area for the tire to the road is about 16 square inches. About 8 inches square per side only on the rear tires. That is about 2 inches x 4 inches for each tire. It is good advice to keep the vehicle stock so if you are out and something breaks, any good parts manual will help you get the needed part. If you change anything to non stock, the previous advice about getting a notebook and write every change dow. The more you drive the car, the more you will become comfortable with your driving skills and how to drive defensively. When someone cuts in front of you, just put the space between you and the person that cut in front of you. Just, ENJOY THE RIDE as it was in day.

Just look around for some of the diesel pick up trucks that have been modified. Solid black soot out of the stack.

I made the comment so others would know that you used the quotes to get the smaller amount of results.

Peter, You used the quotes to get a smaller search. I did it for a 1984 Volkswagen Vanagon without the quotes and got 44,000 hits. With the quotes, 466 hits. It appears that you must use the quotes to get a manageable number, but may miss what you are looking for.

Pictures of the first group of socket sets that I purchased at Woolworths. I still use them regularly. Guess when I bought them based on the prices in the boxes.

I would get an infrared temperature gun. It will tell you what the temps are across the engine & radiator quickly. Something like this. https://www.google.com/search?q=infrared+temp+gun&client=opera&hs=uid&sxsrf=ALiCzsbI8oxoNWgqaUfYviSUmZOrSTgdRA:1653180588232&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiK7dfN8fH3AhXsAJ0JHaV4Au4Q_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1253&bih=600&dpr=1.5

Matt makes a good point about checking the batter voltage while running. Another good check is to put a volt meter on the battery, have someone try to start the car while having the volt meter on the battery. If you get less than about 4.5 volts while trying to start the car with a charged battery, the battery is bad.

Also, if there is a terminal on the end of the positive cable, you can solder it and it will eliminate another possible high resistance point. Good soldering fixes a host of bad crimps, etc..

I would take the ground wire off the block and make sure that it is super clean. Both the block and the end of the cable. Any dirt, grunge, paint can cause the car not to start. High resistance point. It would probably be good to check the other end of the positive cable.

If you are needing just the wood part of the steering wheel, contact Stutzman Wheel Works in Baltic, Ohio. The respoke wood wheels and do a great job. They also make wood steering wheels. Not that expensive, but top shelf work.

I would investigate Bring a Trailer.com

On the 1913 Buick we usually get between 11-16 mpg depending on terrain/ flat land or up & down hills. On the '15 Buick truck it is usually about 12-13. Sometimes better, sometimes worse.

I have put a stick on the clutch to put pressure on the clutch and left it there for a while. DO NOT force the clutch trying to break it free. I have done this and over some time if you are not in a hurry, many times it will pop free with the pressure.

Maybe this will help.

I finished working on the brakes on the 1913 Buick making adjustments and cleaned the coolant filter. Before and after pictures below.

You might want to look into putting a quartz movement into the clock. I did that to our Corvette instead of fixing the original one. The original clock is now in a box on the shelf.

I have seen that more than once fixing other persons cars. Cars usually come in for "brakes making noise" or like the second picture shows the reluctor ring for the ABS, brake light on dash illuminated. Especially true when the front wheel bearings are bad and the front wheels are about ready to fall off the vehcile.

You can buy a new rubber bulb. They come in three sizes if I remember correctly from Restoration supply.