ReeRee

Precision Fuel pump E16035 or for Delphi use FE0112

My mistake I meant j relay from the box just behind the driver's headlights. Ran a 15amp fuse to make sure the compressor was still working correctly and check the pressures. The fifteen amp fuse hasn't popped tho and everything is working good when it is in. Got a multi meter and I intend to check all the wiring soon.

Replaced j fuse. Worked for like 2 minutes then blew again. Checked lowside pressure when on showed just a hair over 40 psi.

A/C compressor wasn't kicking on and I found fuse #18 blown. Replaced fuse and new one was immediately blown. Replaced the relay and it worked for a bit then started blowing the fuses again.Anybody had this issue before and what would be the next steps to trouble shooting the issue?

I didn't drive it after I had noticed. I added about a half qt of oil and was full before heading to work. Tried checking oil level after work before driving home and went to add and ended up having to add 4qts before it read full so I checked the leak and when I saw how fast it was leaking I got a ride and left the car where it sat

Replaced with with a wix filter PF52 equivalent seems to have remedied the issue. Fram filter gasket seems to have compressed to far and wasn't sealing. Filter was tight. Seems that the filter channel was too deep gasket looked ok once removed and inspected. Also appears the outer edge of filter was flush with adapter face as it's rubbed some of the paint off on the lip.

Didn't drive the car home after I noticed the leak. I left the car at work and am on the way to look it over this morning. I had been keeping the oil level withing the safe zone topping up the oil level before every drive never letting it get below .5 to .75qts low

I never had a low oil pressure light come on the sensor was showing roughly 40psi the whole drive except for at idle it reads below 20 psi but I've had that issue since the timing set was installed. I believe I lost most of the oil on the highway but probably leaked out about a quart onto the parking lot while I was working

I had a slight drip from the oil pan and would only lose about .25qts on the drive one but today it seems to have started running from the oil filter or the housing in a steady stream. I have a 20 mile drive from home to work and Lost about 4 to 4.5 qts of oil on the drive there. Since the motor was almost ran dry I'm wondering if the block will even be salvageable for a rebuild without extensive machine work done because I'm sure the entire rotating assembly will be shot. Also curious what the parts availability will be or if it would be better to look at swapping in and l36 and everything that would entail. Just wondering what my options are. This car is my daily so I would like to get this done as budget friendly as possible but also have a goal to supercharge it as I've seen has been done on a couple YouTube videos and in a few threads here. Any input will be much appreciated.

Will check tightness of filter. Should be good as it is a new filter. The gasket for the oil filter housing was replaced 1 week ago and the oil pressure sending unit is relatively new and was replaced shortly after id originally made this thread.

Hey it's been a while since the last update but I figured out the stalling issue. Timing chain stretch ended up being the culprit. Swapped out the timing set oil pan gasket and switched to an AC Delco cps. I now have a new issue. After highway driving the oil pressure reads very low idling and stop fluctuating on bd71 around and under 20ish sometimes dipping as low as 4. Leaking oil on the passenger subframe but haven't yet found the source. Lost about 1 qt of oil in 2 hours a few days ago

Ok I will check for that as well

Harmonic balancer does appear to have slight wobble. New oil pressure sensor is a Duralast PS227. Oil pressure readings taken thru BD71 read in the 40s yesterday at cold idle. Going to be taking the harmonic balancer back off anyways but the box it had came in was handle a bit rough and the new CPS had a small part of the molding broken off. The dust shield also was in rough condition and looks like it was melted by friction with the old harmonic balancer. Will post pics once I have them. Also noticing it's smoking a bit in the rear of the engine bay and read some posts on the EGR and cleaning it but it also has a powersteering leak so I believe it may be burning some of that off as well

I had thought ed08 was a bit odd as well the only part of the ignition system I haven't replaced is the actual plugs so I'm planning to check the condition of them. I'm also concerned about the injectors being gummed up at not atomizing the fuel correctly. Wanting to find out what is causing the rattling from the engine bay as well and I'm concerned it's possibly due to the lower oil pressure and how it might affect the bearings. Does anybody know if the 3800 are prone to valve seats going out as well because it backfires under load occasionally and it was mentioned that it may be out of time.

Bought oil pressure sensor and only reading 23 psi at idle. Still need to check sensors while stalling. Sensor readings at idle are below ED01: .42-.44 ED04: .54 ED06: 5.5-5.8 ED07: .45 ED08: 19-24 ED10: 13.6-13.8 ED11: 800 ED12: 0 ED16: 0 ED17: 273 ED18: 49-65 ED19: 128 ED20: 134 ED21: 6.4 ED22: 51 ED23: 44 ED24: 675 ED25: 17 ED26: 14.3 ED27-ED30: 0 ED31: 0110 ED98: 13 ED99: 1484