intimeold

You are going to have to get in the barrel, of that latch. Unfortunately, these were never meant to be repaired. But anything can be taken apart. The top rivet and bottom rivet are going to have to be removed. Ground off, preferably. And try to reverse engineer it. Doesn't look easy. If You can get it apart; without destroying it; replace the spring, inside the barrel.

Very nice project, anyone would be happy to find one like that. intimeold

Yes, a spanner wrench, is needed here. They come in small sizes too. Leave the vise grips in the tool box. intimeold

That sludge may be old stop leak.

The top one is an aftermarket cab light; seen on 1940's 1950's trucks I could use the center one; I have one that is rusted out. intimeold

The fact that you stored them, in a cool, dark place, and covered the original plastic coverings; certainly help preserve the tire to some degree. We have learned that the Sub, ozone, high temperatures and a few other things, start to degrade rubber very quickly. I have done the same as you and one added step; spray a covering of silicone or some substance that is sold to help rubber stay pliable and prevent just plain air to penetrate the rubber. I would say this helps with cosmetics. On the safety side; who knows? There are certainly driving situations that would be suspect. High speed and high temperatures would come to mind. Do You feel lucky today? intimeold

I enjoy, reading the posts of these characters. Keep it Up intimeold

Great advice. Too many carburetors were ruined by improper disassembly. intimeold

Yes, And I wouldn't be comfortable with that angle of rake Looks to be a bit overloaded at the rear. Stand back at look at that angle from the side. Thus, too light at the front axle. May not be stable at interstate speeds, in a cross-wind. I have driven some trucks, loaded like that. Not a fun ride. And heavier springs may not give you a better feeling of safety.

Yes, just keep looking for that evasive part; one will show up

The frame rust is probably why the car is sitting. Too expensive to fix.

I worked on a lot of them. 1957Birdman, is correct; and yes the Cologne engine was used in the American Ford products. and Yes it was Metric. I would also be looking for an Air-Conditioned car, for the extra groove pulley. A good engine; and a compact engine. The only thing I really remember, that was a problem on higher mileage cars; was that the timing gear would disintegrate. But only later in the engine life. Not a big problem though.

Here is a quote I lifted from the Smokestak website. Asking differences in Standard Twin and Viking tractors I guess nobody else wanted to take a stab at this so I'll try. May be hard without pictures. The Viking twin had 3 different models. The model B started in about 26. It's the one depicted in the early ads with the long shift lever coming up to the handles. It had a totally different engine with a shroud that reminds me of a 2 cyl Wisconsin and open valves. The Standard twin started in 34. The model F Viking used the Standard Twin engine but the gearbox was different. The thing that stands out on the gearbox is that it has 2 triangle shaped plates on the sides and one is upside down of the other. There was a slight difference in hubs as well. The Viking also had an engine cover with a hood and side curtains. The fuel tank on the Viking went front to back while the Standard went side to side. The F was short lived. I've seen 35 and 36 dates but don't think i've ever seen a 34 but they may have been made then. In 37 they went to a model CF. It had the same gearbox as the twin but still had the engine house. The wheels changed to a big cast hub with holes in it. At some point I believe the engine house was eliminated and they were the same tractor as the twin. As for advertising, they probably used the same generic picture. At the end of production in the late 50's everything carried the Viking name.

That may be a Viking Garden tractor I say Viking because I think you have a later model. This tractor was also sold as a a Standard twin; but maybe earlier I had one a long time ago. Do you have the hood and body work?

It is easy to say, never buy a vehicle that does not have a title. I was a dealer and notary, you have to add to that last sentence; a "Clear Transferable Title". Taking a title with someone' else's name on it; is usually worse. Many times buying at Carlisle Swap Meet or Hershey, or anywhere; the current owner never applied for a title because he didn't want to pay the tax on it. I mentioned those 2 particular shows/car corrals; because I have had experience there. New Jersey is close to those 2 meets. It seems some, New Jersey sellers try to pull that a lot. I am only talking from experience so don't kill me here. I have seen many horror stories; some can be fixed. A little time and legal work plus $$$, can fix some problems. intimeold

So glad he has shown a pic of the engine. In the mid to late 1960's and the early 1970's I spent a lot of time, riding vehicles with that general type of engine with that Mikuni carburetor. Oh, did I mention that they were 2-stroke, 2-wheeled motorcycles. I still have some vintage parts for them. Is this post a joke?? intimeold

On this forum, many Chrysler enthusiasts, have many thoughts on the K car LeBarons. Here is a quote, of course from the internet- The LeBarons were also noteworthy for their front-wheel drive, which was a first for Chrysler. The model was moved to the Chrysler K platform for the model year, making it about 800 lbs. lighter and about two feet shorter than its predecessor. That gave the LeBarons really good gas mileage for the time (between 25 and 40 mpg) and made them appealing to a wide audience. But as nice as they were,

Ice is heavy;! What puzzles me is that the front end is really low to the ground also. But maybe the loader of that ice, if it was ice; was able to place a lot of the load towards the font of that van. Maybe!

Well, Let's see the pic of the other side

The C-3, Corvettes. 1968-82 have a tendency to have rust problems in the frames. Oh, yes all early corvettes can have rust in the frame and birdcage; but You really have to look at all C-3's before buying them. This one in the pic; would probably break in half if you tried to move it. Just let Mother Nature have this one. intimeold

This forum is amazing. A poster, asks a question about a part that is, really odd part; and a member here knows what it is. A wealth of knowledge, in the members here. intimeold

That is a Handsome car. Love the way the convertible top, sets everything off. intimeold

Oldsmobile had a very nice car in those years. The only flaw this cars had was the Slim Jim transmission (Roto Hydramatic). My father did transmission work back in those years; and it was a real chore rebuilding them. Of course as time goes on we find out that there were internal engineering problems with these transmissions. He took it personally, that he couldn't make them work or last like other Hydramatics. People thought this new design was Good; only years later we know this transmission was one of GM's mistakes. The Oldsmobile cars, even in the lower trim levels were really nice and modern. intimeold Roto Hydramatic was an automatic transmission built by General Motors and used on some Oldsmobile, Pontiac and Holden models from 1961–1965.

Any body shop, today will or at least should have a spectrophotometer. When comparing the paint color to a damaged car, technicians use a special device called a spectrophotometer to find the color. This device has the capability of indicating the vehicle's current shade as exactly as it appears in the image. light onto the paint to determine what hue is current at that time. Caution: The device will read the paint sample that, the device is asked to read. So You want to have the best sample to test on. Not a faded, or dirty sample. This is very important intimeold

You see in the pic, your latches are missing, the mount that attaches to the top frame. In your pics I can see where they are broken off. You have the hook that goes into the header frame; but you have no way to mount the clamp to the top. Not exactly sure what they fit; but they are broken. The clamp assembly, pulls the top down tight on the, windshields header frame, (maybe a better name for the frame); to secure the top. As Dandy Dave pointed out