intimeold

Yes, we have seen that Indian head , on a lot of vintage gauges. I think I have some NOS oil pressure gauges with that logo.

At our shop we would definitely start at the tank a proceed through ; maybe the original 1931 fuel lines. Maybe you have already done that; but haven't said yet. We have found stuff floating in vintage fuel tanks and causing problems. I would look there first; and proceed with caution.

At our shop, we occasionally have someone, walk in with a power steering pump; so we remove and install the pulley. If a customer walks in with a new/rebuilt pump and and pulley not installed yet; but he tried to pound/beat it on the shaft with a hammer; and wants us to install it. I direct them to the parts room and advise them to get another pump; because, one hit with the big hammer probably ruined the rebuilt/new pump. They learn that lesson pretty fast $$$

Wow, that was fast. A Winner

I just noticed,that I had this set of _________ ________ _________ pliers Anybody have an idea what these were used for? 1, First clue, - Would not be needed on a Sunny day

This is a strange clock. It weights 1 lb Has a connection at the back for DC electrical, so I would presume it is for a vehicle. And to date it, the body is the famous pot-metal, Al least it looks like pot-metal

Sad: I enjoyed his posts intimeold

This part was the weak link, in this 3-speed transmission; if you had a hopped up engine, or shifted hard and fast. A strong 283 or 327 could overpower this transmission. Normal driving: the transmission was just fine. That brass ring, that you can see in the pics is the synchronizer ring. This was actually the weak link. We replaced a lot of these, synchronizer assemblies intimeold

Absolutely wonderful automobile! The wheel wobble. It is definitely there but the car seems to drive really nice. We see this wheel/tire issue on a lot of vintage motorcycles too. Can it be fixed? Well sure it can be. it may be something simple, as run-out of the tires; a good place to start. But, probably the best way to diagnose the problem is to start at the other end. the steering knuckle the proceed to the axle, then the wheel bearings. meanwhile checking clearances and run-out on every connecting part. A part may look good; but does it run true? So You made it up to the wheel now, laced spoke wheel; pretty good chance that it is not perfect; not running true. Now you are really getting down in the weeds. What do you do now? So we started at the suspension and axle; and now worked our way, back up to the tire. This is the probable culprit, and the easiest. But you have fixed your way all the way up from the suspension. Just a fraction of run-out on any or each of the parts; could amount to unacceptable wobble. This is not an afternoon project; do it right, from the start. On a vintage motorcycle, it is the same process. intimeold

I see that this tool has stumped the viewers. I have used a tool like this. We called it a Ridge Reamer In my fathers' auto/truck repair shop; he had this tool. And I actually used it as a teenager. Some cars in the early 1940's and 50's and certainly older had varying degrees of cylinder block hardness. causing engine piston rings and pistons to be installed. Maybe as early as 20-23 thousand miles. Piston rings seemed to be much harder that the cylinder walls. A ledge would develop at the top of the cylinder, to a depth of the first compression ring. Maybe only 1/8" or 3/16";. To allow the piston to be removed from the cylinder, this ledge would spot the piston from going higher than the normal path of the top ring; this ledge had to be removed. The ledge wasn't all metal but hard carbon too. Ok the cutter is the pivoting small piece of carbon steel held in place by that screw show in pic. Being on a pivot it fit to the contour of the piston bore in the block. That cutter would only reach down, maybe 3/8" to 1/2" max. The top is that hex bolt maybe 3/4" . It was a bit of a hard pull; but you had to be careful to keep the tool flush to the cylinder block. Once that little ledge was removed the piston and rod could be removed out the top of the cylinder bore. Otherwise the rings would have caught on the ledge.

Yes, This tool really made the technician's life easier. the horizontal round, solid metal, part on this tool is the slide of the slide hammer. At he very bottom of the tool, are two jasws/teeth (for a better word) that hooked into a ridge in the top inner edge of the valve lifter. Then once hooked, you would move thar round solid metal part up and down in a slide hammer fashion. Thus dislodging the cooked on sludge; that would be holding the valve lifter in it's bore. The lifter were hard to get out; and the slide hammer action broke the sludge or cooked on crap from the bottom of the lifter. Nifty

We took a Club tour to their facility, in the 1980's. The place and their work was impressive. At the time; they were finishing a 1936 540K Mercedes. It was amazing. intimeold

Next I took the new chain and draped it over the sprockets to ensure it would mesh properly. This was the second red flag. I could not get the chain to mesh smoothly around the sprocket. The Whitney brochure lists a pitch of 3/8" which seems to be a common size for the smaller chains. The main chain for the camshaft should be 1/2" per the brochure. That measurement is called chain" Pitch". The chain has to fit in the sprocket to be the correct size.

I would think that your carburetor, is not designed for any negligible pressure. All of my experience with gravity fuel systems; no sort of added, pump ever worked correctly.

Thank You, Peter

I worked on a lot of the 6.2's. The main thing that we saw; were glow plug problems. But most of that was probably, operator error. There was a set procedure to start these trucks, when cold and they didn't like it if that procedure wasn't followed. I suppose, if the trucks lived in warmer climates, the glow plugs may not have been a problem. The trucks were slow; compared to modern diesels. But really none of the problems newer diesels have. These were before the Government, tried to choke the life out of the engines. no DEF needed to run these.

Being a retired dealer and notary; I can assure You that that piece of paper, "providing it IS a transferable title"; is valuable. In the deceased family member's name; usually the big "IS". If not all you have is toilet paper.

Yep, you got it. And fast too. intimeold

Correct on the V-8

We have used this type of service; and never got ripped off. But, and a big but! We have heard that the process all went well, until a "certain clerk, or somebody",at the DMV that you are looking to get the title, refuses to give you a title. I personally witnessed this. This particular state always issued titles, with no problems. But get a Rouge clerk at the DMV; and they cam make life miserable. And now with all computerized files; all transactions on that title request are saved forever. So appeals are really tricky. One person in the chain can mess the whole deal up. I have other horror stories from the DMV but will refrain from comment at this time. Some of it just makes you sick. Sometimes DMV's are under directive to take in as much Sales Tax money as they can. And the clerks let anything go by. Yes, I got that from a DMV employee. You pay the tax we give you a title. To the poster's question! Yes this service has worked for many.

The green drop of liquid is certainly coolant. But it may be coming from a higher point on the block and just collecting, on the outside of the oil pan. I would pressure test the coolant system; be careful and not too high of pressure. And really look closely , on the block where there seems to be some rust tracks. Something is going on there. intimeold

I really admired his skills. A terrible loss God Speed

Happened to me, more than once. The cold water running down the back of your neck; just makes you go faster.

I would pay $40 today for the set! I know, dream on

These Slim Jims were absolutely problems for transmission shops, back in the 1960's. Customers could not understand that the transmission had design flaws; and it was in their beautiful car. They wanted them fixed; because they just purchased this used Pont,Olds. The dealer or private seller was just unloading the car. This was before the days of big recalls.