John_Mereness

Use in late 20's and early to mid 30's cars, as well as they came back for use in Corvair. They may have also been used in continental kits, though have not seen one in that use.

Title problems happen all the time - there is usually a Common Pleas Court process to resolve (cost a few 300-400 usually and quite of bit of time) - contact your Clerk of Courts or someone administrative at your DMV and inquire.

Technically YES as this is the same style chrome door frame, though the Madam X styling is more associated with a 4 door sedan.

There should be a tool box under front seat or possibly rear seat - look for the hand crank within.

Sidenote: It is going to leak 30 spots of oil out on your garage floor and if you want to fix them you can spend all the money you have/make = then it will leak oil out of 10 spots onto your garage floor. Also, best to park it in the grass in the morning when using the Bijur chassis oiler and then put it back in the garage at night - cannot tell you the number of times someone pulled the oiler handle and then looked at me stupid as the thing leak all over the floor thinking it was not going to make a mess (it basically flushed oil through it's lubrication points). When I Bijur greased the RR PI, I usually put a cheap plastic painters drop cloth under the car for a couple of days thereafter.

A lot of nice original cars have been near destroyed by running them with old solidified oil in the bottom of the oil pans Pretty much every gasket should be available via https://www.olsonsgaskets.com/ or www.maxmerrittauto.com/

If you want a part 205 (the intermediate link) - you can reach out to Don Sommer https://americanarrowcorp.com/ Our 1931 Cadillacs had the intermediate link. Our 1930 Franklin did not have the intermediate link. The NOS Pilot Rays I have had never had the intermediate links in the kits (my last original light kit went to the late Bill Bools for J434 - a Duesenberg that had a Packard Dietrich Roadster body grafted to it "The Green Hornet" - though not sure if ever installed).

The top picture is that of the bracket for the pitman arm (goes over steering box shaft and pitman arm). A Part No 1 with a 2F clamp - which should work just fine (a Part number 1 with a A2 clamp would be used for different leverage - the shaft goes in the forward hole verses the shaft hole on part 1) I am not sure what the bottom picture is - had many NOS lights over years and this is not anything I have seen before (or on anyone's else's car) - That being said though I would best guess via looks tat it is a clamp for the drag link.

Looks like a standard 1932ish Auburn Cabriolet that has had modifications to the rear body tub (they cut back into body to get 4 passengers inside and in doing so also closed up the rumble seat or trunk lid). The wood wheels are proper Auburn with accessory hub covers. The grill has had 1934 inserts installed and heavily modified sheet upper and lower grill sheet metal, as are the running boards modified. The dash inserts and instruments are 30's Cadillac, but the tachometer looks correct Auburn. The steering wheel and horn button are not Auburn. The trunk hinges/spare tire compartment are 1938-1941 Cadillac 60 Special Fleetwood. The taillights are 32/33 LaSalle. The hood doors are not Auburn. And, the bumpers are Ford. Auburns 8's have a tendency when proper sized tires are installed to look a little small wheeled - common problem (a fair number of people put a larger profile tire on their cars when restoring).

We have had a couple of cars now that have seriously scraped windshields from people running rings/diamonds into them.

I would say you were looking at someone's earlier Rollston body grafted to a 34 Chassis given such as the 1929 style windwings and top - may be period though done in 34 (someone paid a chunk of change for the body to begin with and it was too important for them to toss to the used car lot). I guess someone could have had it built from scratch in 1934, though it would have been a chunk of change for 34 too and given popularity of a coupe convertible/Coupe-Roadster would have been better off with such as a Custom Dietrich.

The headlights are 1930.

12 volt ? Are you sure ? Start early on this project - it is going to eat time. You may have to put a pressure regulator on the electric pump - a 1lb to a 1.5lbs should be max.

The two here are KB's I believe - the one for ebay sale is a KA - very different beasts value wise

I was 14 when I bought my 1941 Cadillac 60 Special Fleetwood in July 1979. My dad was 16 when he bought his 1941 Cadillac 62 Series Convertible in 1955. Take a look at the 1950's and 1960's videos on the AACA YouTube page - most of the car owners are in their 20's to 60's driving brass and nickle cars. And, what a lot of people do not realize that today if you are in Los Angeles (or Europe) it is not uncommon to see younger people out touring in brass cars.

It should not have buttons on the back seat rest at the "pleats" on the 1925's and assume that carries over to the earlier cars, but 1925's do have buttons on the lower cushions (aka why people put the buttons on the backrest as looks awkward without them).

AN INCREDIBLY VERY NICE - WELL RESTORED 1930 Franklin engine with a rare accessory MASCO Heater Exhaust Manifold (for people that like to dream of and the feel of the tropics on either the coldest or warmest of days and also is the 1930 type manifold that makes it impossible to install a tall distributor - which was a nice accessory via 1031 to get the dirstibutor out of the heat). For those curious: On top photo upper left there is a valve oiler (factory), hanging under the front of the exhaust manifold is the siphon to open and close the grill shell shutter, and on the lower photo just to the left of the fuel pump is basically a PVC valve to pressurize the crankcase and blow vapors up the push rods tubes. You can see a take-off wire from the starter crossing through the engine and that is for the electric fuemer for the carburetor to pre-heat fuel. It also has factory accessory Trumpet Horns to extra challenge people opening and closing hood. In the nit picking detail department (which is hard as this is one of the better looking engines I have ever seen): Not sure, but looks like a louvered 1931 Air Cleaner verses a 1930. The boot on the distributor to isolate it from heat seems to be missing or perhaps was an accessory - do not recall. Someone forgot to put the coil wire in the chrome wire loom and to accomplish this you generally need gloss black wire as you need the 'slick" wire or otherwise near impossible to get all the wires in the tube. . The spark plugs usually had brass quick disconnect caps that also held on Bakelite covers over the plugs. The exhaust pipe header is a reproduction. Our car originally had nickled push rod tubes and cross over/hold down , a nickled oil fill cap, chrome valve cover hold-down clips, and chrome brackets for the spark plug wire loom tube (do not know if nickle/chrome was standard or just was originally on our car - I painted a lot of its nickle/chrome when I restored our car). Our car also originally had a molded wrap on the exhaust pipe header, but that may have been because it was originally a Florida car.

Recommend contacting http://www.albersrollsbentley.com/

As a sidenote: When you are making side curtains, when we have had an earlier car I have also had a triangular side curtain made for the front that triangulates from the windshield down to the door - tends to be perfect for touring on a crisp day or when chance of rain (just as I always recommend windwings, as they add incredible comfort to an earlier car and notice you are already one step ahead of the curve on that point) . With modern traffic the car already has limited visibility and a full set of side-curtains installed limits that visibility even more.

The 1937 Super Eight Coupe is a very nice car that was a great car before restoration, had an incredibly well done comprehensive restoration, and that also has held up well over time - and actually drove down road "super" well. I fixed a couple of things on it in early 2000's when it was in an estate.

I saw you were messing around with a Carter-BB-1 and I know they come in all shapes and sizes of jetting and throats, though there are a considerable number of people trying to use them on 1929 Franklin's (which I understand have a die cast wonder of a carb), as well as 30-34 franlklins and I have never heard of anyone being truly successful (they seem to not have the proper high end circuit at speed). And, I saw this recently: December 7, 2018. Series 12 and 13 new replacement Zenith updraft carburetors. Designed to replace the original potmetal Stromberg T-2 on all Series 12A and B, and all potmetal T-2, U-2 used to mid production Series 13. After many decades the original potmetal carbs are cracking and becoming unsafe to use as a result of intergranular corrosion. The potmetal used in the 1920's and early 1930's is porous. It is slowly corroding from within and expanding/cracking. These are new manufacture, diecast updraft carburetors have the correct size venturi and jetting for all Franklin Series 12A, B, and Series 130. Plus a model is available for the larger Series 135/137 engines. Features Bench set and ready to bolt-on updraft that uses all the original hand and foot controls. Simple and decades-proven design. Original air filter fits right on. Adjustable idle speed, idle air/fuel mix, and high speed fuel jet, that work the same as the tuning procedures covered in the Franklin Operator’s Manuals. Fuel-proof rubber tipped float needle for leak-free sealing when the engine is shutoff. Same 1/8 inch pipe thread as original fuel line inlet fitting. Vacuum controlled accelerator and power enrichment circuits. Dust seals an throttle and choke butterfly shafts. Comes with new mounting gasket, nuts, and lock washers. Note, these are not stationary/industrial engine carburetors, like many that are turning up installed as replacements in the past. With these there is no need to over-adjust the main jet too-rich for cruising conditions so as to compensate for being too-lean during acceleration and hill climbing because previous replacement types lacked those fuel circuits. These are specifically designed and sized with all the correct fuel circuits needed to smoothly handle all Franklin driving conditions with the proper air/fuel ratios. For more info contact,Paul FitzpatrickEmail: airiscool@frontiernet.net607-674-9432

A hard drive, but plenty of Franklin owners doing this drive to Trek every year

Not glamorous, but I have used washers and stainless steel screws with the head ground down a touch (works fine until you have to take it apart). or usually can find something here www.restorationspecialties.com

I use to time the 1932 RR PI with a 6 volt light bulb and wired it into circuit - you had to start out to get both distributors at same firing point..