Mark Shaw

It appears to be a DELCO rotary pump. Solenoid (thumper) pumps have the bad reputation for going bad when you are only halfway home. Rotary pumps are much more reliable and can be very helpful in hard starting cars and with overcoming vapor lock.

To answer the original question: The "Standard Catalog of American Cars, 1805-1942 lists production numbers by model , with engine sizes, wheelbase, special features, etc. This is my go-to publication to verify model and production numbers for American made prewar cars.

I have several of these that need to find good homes. These are high quality powder coated on heavy gage steel. If you belong to an Olds club, I suggest you get several of these for your club members. $25 each or $20 each for three or more + actual shipping cost from Portland OR area. Please PM me since I do not frequent this section of the forum. Thanks, Mark

Atwater Kent Key:

Jack Frost came earlier than expected this year. So, I turned up the water heater and turned on the recirculation pump for my radiant floor heat system. Winter projects include making a new mounting plate for the DU4 Magneto on my 13 Buick touring car and solving the "bucking shift" problem on my 15 Buick Speedster.

My 1924 Master Series Buick (cut down) truck has plenty of power and has first year 4-wheel brakes. I drove it from Portland to Seattle on back roads until I missed a turn. I had to get on the I-5 freeway to catch-up to my group and kept up with slow lane traffic at 55-60 mph. My son's 1929-27 Buick Sedan can only do about 45 mph maximum and has a much less comfortable ride.

Maybe add some details on what vehicle you are working on???

Obviously, the best practice is to use a stick to keep the clutch depressed during storage. (This is an absolute must-do for leather cone clutches.) Another good practice is to release the parking brake during storage to prevent the brake shoes from sticking to the drums.

Four shocks in original condition with mounting hardware. Located just north of Portland OR. Make offer via PM.

If you are a member, you can find all the HCCA Rambler owners via the online roster. My 2012 printed HCCA roster shows over a dozen members with 1913 Ramblers. However, we now have a new webmaster (Peter G.) and we evidently new software that is not working properly.

Look-up Bob Knaak in Orange CA for help.

Not yet, maybe in a month or so. We have a relatively mild climate here in the NW.

I suggest you try again...

Permanently closed 215 Poplar St, Hanover, Pa 17331 (717) 632-5204

Fundamentals of Brake Adjustment is a booklet that is very helpful. In my experience, most old manuals were written by engineers and tend to be more complicated than needed. If your brake bands or shoes are concentric with the drums, you just need to adjust the brake rods so they provide maximum leverage when the brakes are applied and fully retract when the brakes are not applied. You can then drive the car on a dirt or gravel road and have someone watch as you brake hard. If one wheel fails to lock-up, re-adjust until both wheels lock-up at the same time.

Do this first....

Click on my name and options will pop-up.

You can do it yourself.

You can fix it yourself with new gaskets and maybe some gas tank sealant. Send me a PM with your email address so I can send you a PDF booklet.

Four Generations with a 1913 Model 31 Buick.

This solves the problem:

I suggest you start here: https://www.smokstak.com/

I started using Pirate Ship earlier this year. Great savings and cost is quoted up front.

1912 & 13 Roadsters used that tank style. Your tank is from a 30 series (mid-sized) car. I have one on my 15 Buick Speedster. It is not the correct tank for 1915, but this is just a fun car that was assembled from left-over parts.

This is an excellent website for anyone who needs information about early Buicks.