Mark Shaw

I have had no issues with Olsen's Gaskets. I suggest you call them and ask for the correct size.

Simple Green soap.

I have had lots of fun with this 1924 "cut down" Buick over the years. Drove it from Vancouver WA to Seattle for the BCA National . Then, on to near the Canadian border for the BCA Prewar After Tour. It has been on several local HCCA tours and lots of garage sailing. Now it is for sale with spare parts and a full set of original tools. PM me if interested at $12K. Canoe is not included, but negotiable.

Take your original (patterns) to a local sheet metal fabrication shop (HVAC Contractor). They will have the skills and tools to replicate yours.

Yours looks a lot like my 38 Buick that is now son's car. I drove it up Pikes Peak and only made it to timberline with four on board before it vapor locked. I saw one guy dump his ice chest on top of his V8 to make it to the top. But most importantly, we passed with flying colors at the brake check station on the way down. Many others had to just sit and wait for their brakes to cool down before they were allowed to proceed.

If Thanksgiving is at your place and you have good weather, take your friends and family for a ride in an old car. Have a great Thanksgiving!

My 1908 Model F Buick kingpin holes in the axle were "egged out, but the kingpins were OK.. Standard bushings wouldn't fit in the egg-shaped holes. I had to remove the entire axle and had a machinist friend machined the holes round. Then we made new bushings to fit the axle holes & kingpins to complete the job.

I used a 5/8" rod diameter that fit my 31-67 Buick to establish the overall length needed: Insert a rod slightly longer than needed and manually roll the engine over until the rod is fully extended or fully retracted (top or bottom of the drive cam). Mark the rod even with the mounting flat for the fuel pump. Measure the stroke of the fuel pump arm to determine how much to add to the shaft. Braise one end of the rod to provide a wear surface to run against the cam. Then cut the other end of the shaft to fit your engine/pump combination.

First, make sure you have good 6V power cables to supply the amps you need. Two 12V cables will also work. Over time the copper contact plate that supplies power directly to the starter gets pitted along with carbon build-up. You may need to flip that plate to provide a clean contact surface and clean up the plunger contact too. Also make sure the carbon brushes are not badly worn and are in contact with the commutator.

Do you have any photos of your steering wheel for your 29? Sorry, no it is now my son's car.

I have a whole Buick hood assembly for sale. I believe it is older than what you need. PM me for dimensions if you or anyone is interested in the whole assembly.

Floyd, It appears to have the original wood. So, I suggest you remove the dark stains before final finishing. Oxalic Acid Crystals (purchased at a local hardware store) will remove the dark stains without changing the natural color of the wood. Dilute the crystals in hot water brush it onto the wood and let is sit for a few hours or overnight as needed. Neutralize the acid with a solution of baking soda, rinse and let it dry before applying the finish. It worked perfect for my badly stained original Buick steering wheel.

Good job keeping your very nice collection exercised! Thanks for posting photos & details.

It could also be a pickup, but I can't tell from the photo.

My radiant heated home shop addition has a small lathe, drill press, 2 buffers, a grinder, a large work bench and 2 stacked toolboxes. It can hold 5 cars, but currently holds only a 1913 Overland Speedster (on the lift being stored for a friend), and my 1913 Buick Touring car next to the lift. Our daily drivers live in the two car garage that came with the house. The 40 X 60 metal Buick barn is 10 blocks away at my daughter's place. It has a bathroom with hot/cold water and no heat except in the separate 20 X 20 lounge area. It has two work benches, 2 toolboxes, a large grinder/wire-wheel, and 2 lifts. It currently holds my son's 1929 Buick sedan, 1924 Buick Roadster Truck, 1915 Buick Speedster, 1931 Buick Sedan, and my Shaw Duall Tractor. Everything runs, drives, & stops & all need routine maintenance and now need preparation for winter storage. It also holds my daughter and son-in-law's camp trailer and his motorcycle. The loft is where most of the family excess is stored. I have been very lucky to have storage for my car collection and a warm place to work in winter months or when it is raining.

Thanks; and to all my fellow veterans: Thank you for your service.

Dennis, 289 cu in is a much larger displacement than any of my teens or 20's cars. That is probably why the cheap regulators didn't keep up. Mark

My 1915 Bumble Buick:

Bloo wrote an excellent explanation above. I have used the cheap fuel regulators for years with no issues. They might not work well for 40s - 60s cars with larger engines, but they have worked well for me with teens and 20s cars that have much lower demand for fuel.

I agree with Howard: "Members should not have to waste time calling, leaving messages, just to find out the price is out of their range." The location of the vehicle should also be required!

Buick switched to chrome for all exterior bright work in 1929. However interior door handles etc. remained nickel.

If you have replaced all rubber parts and have no aluminum in the fuel system you can use ethanol laced fuel. However, you will need to replace it with non-ethanol fuel if you plan to park it for more than a month or so...

I have two sets of 1930 Buick seat springs left over from a parts car. Free to anyone interested.

Apparently your degree hasn't been applied yet, since your oldest car is a 1931 Ford. Perhaps you should try a one- or two-cylinder car or a high-wheeler? : )

It appears to be a DELCO rotary pump. Solenoid (thumper) pumps have the bad reputation for going bad when you are only halfway home. Rotary pumps are much more reliable and can be very helpful in hard starting cars and with overcoming vapor lock.