Mark Shaw

Yes, any positive displacement pump should not be restricted. If your pump has rubber vanes, you might be OK as it will bend the vanes to leak the excess. However, I suggest you get a rotary centrifugal pump that will work fine with restriction.

I just use chalk to mark the rockers of the adjusted valves and keep jogging the engine to adjust the valves that have both rockers up. Just keep going until all rockers have chalk on them.

Mary Elizabeth, Please give Terry all my best for a fast & full recovery. I have made several phone calls with no success. I got the phone numbers corrected and spoke with Terry this morning 3/14/2024. He is on track with his recovery and doing well.

Your car does not have a vacuum fuel pump. It has a mechanical diaphragm pump driven off the cam shaft. Follow the fuel line from the carburetor to locate the fuel pump. Disconnect it from the carburetor, place the rubber hose in a container, and crank the engine with the ignition off to see if it is working.

This clearly indicates gear lube is losing viscosity & probably causing the problem. The first and most cost effective & simplest thing to try is heavier gear lube.

Neither. High pressure can damage paint, tires and rubber seals. Just use a garden hose nozzle.

FOR SALE 1922 BUICK MODEL 48(COMPLETE PROJECT) - Buick - Buy/Sell - Antique Automobile Club of America - Discussion Forums (aaca.org)

This is the most simple steering method I could find that is most likely to be like yours. Note the steering column is heavy wall tubing.

I too am a HCCA member and own brass era cars. I agree The Gazette is one of the finest car club magazines focused on the brass era. However, you are only speculating that the brass era focus would change with a negative outcome. I believe the current HCCA leadership would probably agree with you for reasons previously stated by others. However, I prefer to believe that future HCCA leadership will eventually realize the reality of membership attrition and the significant loss of historical content within the club. I expect that they will negotiate with the AACA to publish sections of the HCCA magazine or even "Prewar Editions" to maintain the focus on the brass era, nickel era, and 1942 & older "Prewar" vehicles currently authorized (but not fully supported) for membership in the HCCA.

Section 1 of the HCCA bylaws: "(1) Any family or single individual interested in promoting the purpose of the club is entitled to all club privileges. However, the right to vote and hold office on the board of directors is restricted to ownership of a pre-1916 vehicle. Each paid membership is entitled to one vote."

Jake, thank you for posting this important topic. Just yesterday, I spoke with a former President of the HCCA about this. When he was President, he proposed just what you described to save the HCCA from dwindling membership and expenses by consolidating under the AACA umbrella. My issue with the current HCCA is that although the club allows 1942 & older vehicles, about 40% of their members do not own pre-1916 vehicles, and members with these vehicles are not supported by the national club. They have no vote in national elections and cannot participate in national tours. The current HCCA board refuses to even list these members in their roster. Although the HCCA has several "Registries" for specific marks & vehicle types that include 1942 & older vehicles, none are fully supported by the national club. I 100% agree with your statement with respect to the HCCA leadership: "club's leaders feel very prideful that giving up a national footprint to become a "chapter" of the AACA would be sacrilegious." Consolidation under the HCCA would be more cost effective by eliminating the high cost of individual club magazines, annual dues to only one club, and shared resources for libraries and museums. Consolidation would offer the best of both worlds with more opportunities to meet everyone's needs with more car shows, tours and other events that everyone can enjoy.

IMO, only museums with static displays and people who restore vehicles to satisfy car show judges hold to 100% original parts or perfect reproductions. You evidently want to be able to drive this car and because it is so rare, nobody is still alive to say it isn't original. I suggest you get it to work with a few upgrades and enjoy the car and continue to make it "more to your taste" later.

Jeff, I have one attached to a spare pump at my car barn. Do you need both sides?

I suggest you use a steering tube from another brass era car. Except for Model Ts, most cars used a large steel tube with a smaller tube and a rod inside to work the spark & throttle. The larger outside tube was usually brass sleeved and operated the steering. You can't go wrong using original steering parts made for the job. You may have to change your wheels an inch or two smaller to accept currently available tires. Good luck,

I took my wood wheels to an old sand blaster who used softer media (greensand) to blast wood wheels. He advised that if the blasting made some of the spokes unusable due to rot, it would be best to know about it so I could get the wheels completely rebuilt. The wheels came out beautifully clean with no damage. Photos below are after painting metal parts and marine varnish on the wood:

I stand corrected; The cutout should protect the battery from discharging by disconnecting the battery from the generator when the generator is not charging.

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Ebay has become a bad joke and apparently, they don't care about customer feedback.

If the rod below it leads to the hand brake, it is probably for mounting the hand brake lever for an older model. My $0.02

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John, The best advice I can offer is to convince him not to try to build a Mercer from a Master series Buick. There are too many differences like overall size, outside pedals & shifter, lots of brass, etc. I suggest that since his health is in question, he could more easily, and more cost effectively build a Buick speedster.

Also note that the air adjustment knob should be about even with the end of the ratchet spring as a starting place.

29 Buicks have mechanical rubber diaphragm type fuel pumps. If the original diaphragm is still in the car with modern ethanol fuel, it will fail and put particles into the filter and carb.