Mark Shaw

This should help too:

George McMurtry always requested the buyer to send him a hub cap so he could measure it himself. The only exception was if his records showed he had already made a puller for the same vehicle.

17 X 6 is the correct original tire size. You searched for 17 x 6 - Lucas Classic Tires Someone else should be able to send a photo of the exhaust down pipe.

That guy was George Mc Murtry. Sadly, George passed away years ago. However, if you need someone to make wheel pullers, contact Dandy Dave on this forum.

You could make any of the double contact types work by adding a lump of solder to the male side contacts. Put more than enough on the contacts and file them down until you can make it lock into the bayonet mount.

I still have one....for over 50 years!

That redhead goes well with the rusty car.

I only have Buicks, so one or two of these should match what you need. Note: the silver socket contacts are spring loaded to stay in contact with the double flat contacts. Please advise if any of these will work for you.

Steve, This thread is about Mecum Auctions. You carefully made general references to what " a good auction house" does for sellers; not Mecum.

I say QIT YOUR BITCHIN. I live in Washington state and have attended Hershey only 2 times due to cost of airfare, hotel, etc. etc. I calculated my purchase of a $30 dog bone radiator cap actually cost close to $1500.

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Probably, but not sure.

Try here: SMS Auto Fabrics - The Largest Selection of Classic Auto Interiors

If you haven't already replaced the carb float, I recommend you do so. Many years ago, my 76 Pacer X float failed and caused an engine fire.

All my cars start out well sorted in the spring. However, one or two tend to develop issues during summer touring. That's why I have a heated shop to service and repair them as needed during the winter.

Appears to be a 165 cu in Buick engine with an aftermarket carburetor. I use a Model A Zenith carburetor on my 165 cu in Buick engine.

I have never put a tachometer on it, but I can follow a single fan blade rotation at idle. I am sure it could be calculated for the 34" tires at 40 mph by some engineering types.

Maybe post a photo of the handle you need?

I remember setting the timing on my buddy's 63 stock bug with a 6V light bulb. That was many many years ago! However, you should be able to drill & tap the intake manifold to get vacuum readings per above advice.

I suggest you check the sides of the crankcase to see if your car has an overflow valve to indicate oil level.

Go for it Jack. I have also used boat paint on my early cars with wood bodies. These single stage paints are reasonably priced and work well on wood bodies that flex and breathe with changes in weather. Even brush painted surfaces can be sanded and re-sprayed later to shine like new.

Biggs, Your Buick can be fitted with a ring gear on the flywheel to accept a modern starter. However, you can also use a torque multiplier with a cordless drill to start your car from the front. Starting rpm is very low and should not be an issue. See below: My primary touring car is a 1913 Model 31 Buick with a flywheel that is totally enclosed by the bell housing. Therefore, installing a ring gear starter is not an option without butchering the car. So, I decided to assemble a simple electric starter setup to crank from the front of the car by using a torque multiplier and cordless electric drill. I used a Neiko Pro Model 03715B torque multiplier ($239) and a Dewalt ½” cordless drill Model DCD771C2 ($99 with charger & 2 batteries). Both items were available via AMAZON with free shipping. The torque multiplier is a simple reduction gearbox that converts high speed input to lower speed with higher torque by pushing on an immovable lever arm. The Neiko unit has ½” female socket drives on both sides and a 1/2” lever arm bar that can push against the frame horn of the car while cranking. I also added ½” foam pipe insulation to the lever arm to protect the paint on the frame horn (see photos). I tested this starter setup to cold start my 201 cu in four-cylinder engine that had not been started in months. It took several tries to get enough gas into the engine to start after sitting so long, but it turned over faster and longer than I could ever crank it manually. If you build this electric starter, be cautious and prepare to hold tightly onto the drill with the grip horizontal as it will push up hard against your right hand. Also note that the variable speed drill should be started slowly while pushing in to engage the crank before going to full speed. The best part is that this starter only requires removal of the hand crank with no modification of the original car. Mark Shaw Vancouver, WA USA

Perhaps you should get a copy of Dean Tryon's book. Fundamental Carburetion book