Mark Shaw

One of these will make it much easier.

Harrison SENIOR Hot water heater Cadillac, Buick GM trucks 1930-1934 Art Deco | eBay

Yes, LED bulbs let you actually see as well as be seen.

Glad to help keep another old Buick on the road Andy. It is important to keep the leather supple so the clutch won't get "Grabby". I once failed to re-lube my 13 Buick clutch and paid the price by breaking an axle while loading the car for a spring tour.

Yup; Joe is right on. I had to install one of these to make my speedster flashers work on the original 6V system.

If you apply too much oil, you can use Fuller's Earth to absorb the excess so it doesn't slip.

Yeah, spell check didn't catch that one. Thanks Morgan.

The 13 Model 31 Buick in the previous photo was in very good shape when I got the car. There were no serious cracks or deterioration found in the wood spokes. However, there was evidence of squeaking spokes that needed to be tightened where they came through the felloe. The ends of each spoke were drilled with a 1/4" bit to the depth of the felloe. Two drops of "Wood Swell" (used by furniture restorers to tighten chair legs etc.) were added to each hole. The holes were then filled with Linseed Oil and plugged with 22 caliber shell casings. These spokes have not squeaked in over 30 years. The spokes were then sanded smooth and brush painted with two coats of Marine Varnish and are still in good shape. I had the wood spokes and metal felloes media blasted before using the same finish on my 1915 Buick Speedster (photo below).

Our local HCCA Region Annual Tour for 32 & older vehicles is scheduled for the last week of August. So, stay tuned for how it goes...

Yes. You can try a long neck oil can or squirt bottle with a bent straw to get some oil on the leather. Then rotate the clutch and disengage it at different locations to distribute a dab of oil around the clutch surface.

Thanks for the clarification as you only mentioned cleaning in your initial post. I agree that complete disassembly is needed to do a complete overhaul. Although Terry may think I am a slob and anti-show car, (thanks Terry) I was only suggesting that cleaning these old engines is a short-term deal if you drive the car. As Terry said: "They seeped, slobbered, oozed, and dripped as long as they were running and that attracts dust and dirt as long as you drive the car."

If the finish is Marine Varnish like mine, you can fine sand and re-apply.

Earlier on this forum, there was an explanation of how red LED bulbs effectively increase the brightness through red lenses. Therefore, there should be no need to add more lights for safety.

I do the same a Fred, except that I test on a dirt or gravel road to easily see what wheels are dragging.

IMO, the primary reason is that it is a lot of extra work for something that will get just as dirty in a relatively short time. Why do you need to get your engine so clean? Is this going to be a no-go show car?

You have "Quick Demountable" wheels that require careful procedures to change your tires safely. I sent you a PM to call me before you try doing this. My 12 Buick had the same wheels and I know how to do this safely. See photo below:

I use an old hack saw blade inserted in a T-shirt hem. Soak the fabric with Neatsfoot oil. Use a stick to keep the clutch pedal depressed and insert it between the leather clutch and the cone flywheel. Wiping the surfaces will spread the oil and remove the dirt as you apply the oil.

If this is for a 1910 automobile, I would expect it would hand crank start on batteries & coil. Then, after starting it would be switched to run on magneto.

The HCCA has a searchable database for "The Gazette" club magazine. I am sure there are many articles about brass lights over the many years of this publication. Membership is only $19.15 for first time members. HCCA | The premier pre-1916 (Brass-Era) car club

All brass Tire Stem Covers (some partially polished, some not). Take all for $50 + shipping.

Teens era KW Master Vibrator original condition with key. $50 plus shipping.

A few years ago, I bought three 4' X 4' panels at the Portland Swap Meet that were full of exhaust donuts and gaskets. Several seem to be graphite with metal inserts like the one shown below. Send me your measurements and I will see if I can help.