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About 32Pontiac6

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  • Birthday 03/16/1954

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    San Jose, CA
  • Interests:
    Spithead 6 ('26-'32) Pontiacs, Flathead Pontiacs, Corvettes

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  1. I thought I would share some photos of the Watson Stabilator I removed from the Packard. Please note the one photo that shows the tag from the 'Adjustment Inspector' who adjusted the shock when it was first installed in the car, I presume. Anybody see this before?
  2. Andy, Is the 1-1/2" strap 3/16" thick? That is what mine are. Actually they measure 1-9/16" wide but they may have flattened out 1/16" in 91 years.
  3. Thank you for the information. I will have to investigate. Plan to pull one of the ones with broken webbing and possibly take apart and see if webbing is the only thing needed. Can you help me with your car designation? I am still learning the Packard nomenclature. Don't know what DB Senior is. My understanding of cars they call '28 are Series 526 and 533 (Single Six) and 443's in Standard and Custom 8. Which is yours? Thanks again.
  4. Does anybody have any experience with rebuilding Watson Stabilators for a 526 Packard? Either somebody who does repair of the shocks or is a source of parts. I have not looked inside to see the condition of the mechanical components but there are two straps broken so I know those need to be replaced. Does anybody have a source for the shock webbing? I do have the Packard Service Manual and the shocks don't look that complicated. I also have the adjusting wrench. Any help would be appreciated.
  5. Hard to say exactly where the problem is. I have attached a couple of photos. The first one is looking down into the block with a snake camera. You can see the intermediate shaft and the slot that the distributor fits into. Actually looking at this shows wear on it and I should eventually have a new one machined. The second photo is what the shaft looks like provided to me a while back by Tinindian. You can see this is one that should probably be replaced because it has twisted. The slots are not parallel. But it does give you an idea of what is in there. Probably need to get the shaft out and shine a strong flashlight into the hole and see what the receiving end looks like on the pump. Also be careful to mark location of the shaft slot so that you don't have to play around with position when you put the distributor back in the block and it rotates as it meshes with the camshaft gear. While it does not have to be perfectly aligned with the male portion in the distributor end it has to be close so that it slips in. I use a long screwdriver to rotate the shaft into the right position to meet the bottom of the distributor when I put it back in. Also, photos of the end of the distributor where it mates into the intermediate shaft, the shaft, and if you can take a photo down the hole to the pump. Those might be helpful. You are not the first person to forget the set screw....
  6. I am assuming that you had the distributor out before and know about the set screw on the side of the block that you have to back off to remove the distributor, right?
  7. I will send an AMEN to Tinindian. The shaft was not needed when the distributor was moved to the side of the block for the new 8's in '33 and the new 6's in '35. The 1932 V-8 also had an intermediate shaft so I guess we can say all Pontiacs up to and including 1932 had them.
  8. Paul - I have also found that one of those ‘grabber’ tools works well in that area. I have used to pull the intermediate shaft out. Your symptoms really sound that that your problem is either the pin sheared or shaft broke. Did the engine make noise when pressure went to 0? How did you notice the low pressure sound or sight? Keep us updated.
  9. The thermometer is a very useful tool. I would check a few points with it: Radiator - point where water enters and point where cooler water comes out. What is the difference in temperature? Also check the temp of the inlet and outlet hose of the engine. How much difference is there? This will give you an idea if the radiator is doing it’s job taking heat out of the water but it is just seeing water that is too hot. The high vs low speed issue is intersting. It seem to me that it might imply a flow issue. Also does the Oakland have a water distribution tube in the block? I knw the splithead Pontiacs do. Not sure what this is worth but overheating cars can sure be a pain.
  10. I am the tech advisor for the Pontiac Oakland Club for 1932 Pontiacs. I would like to get your car on my list and if you are in California I would like to see the car. I would like to talk to you about your car and your two options. I will send you a private message.
  11. Hopefully this response will not add to any confusion. For 1932 there were not 'matching numbers' but a range of numbers on the engine, chassis, firewall, and also a plate on the main sill (passenger side) that had a four digit number that specified paint code. Firewall Plate The 32308, as was mentioned before, designates a Series 402 Model 32308 Sport Coupe. If this is the car I am thinking of from Craigslist in San Francisco it is also a Deluxe model. If so, it would have twin tail lights and the trim around the window sills on the doors are fancier. The Body Number is just a sequential number identifying the particular car. Plate Chassis - 744177-P6 This is the serial number for the car. The sequence here specifies a car made in Michigan. The range is 729001-P6 to 763983-P6 In '32 there were 1700 cars made in Oakland, CA at the old Durant Motors Plant and they had unique serial numbers with the format C-XXXX-P6. The V-8 cars ended in -P8 Engine Number The engine number is on a flat spot on the crankcase, driver side, just about the dipstick. It should be a number in the range of 835001to 879565. Paint Code Number Does the car have a small plate on the passenger side on the main floor sill with a 4 digit number? If it does we can determine if the blue color is original. There was some discussion on production numbers, how many were made, and how many are left. I have seen some variation in total production numbers for 1932. One thing that is not in question is that this was the worst year of production for Pontiac. They made both the Series 302 which was a V-8 and a Series 402 which was a 6. The numbers I use are based on Serial Numbers and for the 6 cyl total 36,673 and V-8 of 6,282 for a total of 42,955. You will see that the engine numbers total more than this. The engine was used in other vehicles made by GMC. I track all surviving '32 Pontiacs and my database is still being scrubbed for accuracy. The number that I am using for known cars of all body styles and engines is 75. I think this number is plus or minus 5 to 10 cars. It is difficult to keep track of cars as they go from owner to owner so there may be duplicates and there are also cars that pop up from time to time. Of the 75 about 20 are V-8's and about 55 are 6's. Of the 55 6's there are 15 Sport Coupes. I believe the numbers show that they are the most common surviving body style. My estimate is that 1-1.5 out of every 1000 6 cylinder cars has survived. The V-8's have a higher percentage that have survived. It is not possible to know exactly what the breakout of model numbers produced in 1932 because those records were destroyed in a fire in the 50's. Please let me know if you have any more questions on this car. If this is the car in California I would like to see it sometime. I think it is about 100 miles from my home. I have attached a photo of my '32 Deluxe Sport Coupe which may be a twin of this car.
  12. She's come a long way. Looking very good. You are right, too, they are a real kick to drive. You will enjoy. I know I enjoy driving mine.
  13. I have accumulated a fair amount of magazine auto ads over the years. In the antique store they generally show ads with a backing board and clear plastic sleeve. Does anybody have a source for these materials? Does anybody have a better method of storing magazine ads? Thanks, Rob
  14. This car is a 2711? Standard and not deluxe?