Jump to content

32Pontiac6

Members
  • Content Count

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

32 Excellent

About 32Pontiac6

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 03/16/1954

Recent Profile Visitors

1,255 profile views
  1. I live at sea level so my data may not equate to higher elevations. Your boiling point will be closer to 200 than 212 in an unpressurized system like we have. I have both a '30 and '32 6 cyl. Both cars run cool. My '32 generally runs 180 degrees and on the hottest days - (95-100) it might get up to 190. The '30 does not have a thermostat so it runs even cooler. My gut tells me that your car has a thermostat in it and that you are seeing temperature after it opens. If the cooling system is working well even with a 180 degree idle the car should run fairly cool. The combinatio
  2. Some people, in the past, have registered their car with the engine number. I don't like that because if you ever have to change the engine you have a problem. The number that Kornkurt illustrates is, in my opinion, the best number to use for a VIN. I had a '30 Pontiac that had the engine number as the VIN and I was able to change it to the number on the frame. Beautiful and rare car there.
  3. Pontiacs had torque tube setups from their start in 1926 through 1928. They went to Hotchkiss drive in 1929 with the Series 6-29 cars. The early torque tube carrier and torque tube was part number 342495 for '26-'28 There was one with a different gear ration than standard in 1928 that had part number 526562 Those numbers should be stamped someplace on the casting, I believe. Hope this helps. As Mr. Kornkurt says, photos might be helpful.
  4. Another thing to put in the back of your mind is that the impeller and shaft is the same for '29-'32 (Group 1.003 and Part Number 526856). The difference is the body. The '32 is particularly unique because it has a water distribution tube that daylights at the pump and brings water to the rear head area. So finding an old pump from that series will allow a spare impeller and shaft. My other bias is that I like the old packing over mechanical seals. I have some Chevy friends who have used mechanically sealed pumps with great success. I replaced the mechanical seal on my '32 and it failed.
  5. I am looking for information and a source for adjusting screws for Chrysler lifters on flathead engines in the mid to late 1930's. I have a 1932 Pontiac and when the engine was rebuilt the adjustors from a mid to late 30's Chrysler engine were used. However, I do not have records of what year adjustor was used. I just remember them being from the later 1930's. The advantage of these is that they do not have the locking nut to hold their adjustment. The Chrysler ones stay when adjusted. I am working on the valve train on my 1930 Pontiac 6 and was thinking of replacing the adjustors with t
  6. No accelerator pump on Series 402 (1932). It had an additional (3rd) jet added.
  7. I am still pawing through some parts and may have something. No promises.
  8. You know I have seen this before... but what I never noticed was the oil distribution photo. It does not show the camshaft being pressure lubed. That correct? I know with the '32 there is pressure to the cam as well as spray to the area of the drive gear for the distributor. Thanks for posting. My splithead website (in embryotic form) is about ready to release to with some minimal information. This would be something good for me to post.
  9. The '29 Pontiac and '30 Oakland front brakes do not interchange. The 1930 Oakland was a V-8 and at least 500 lb heavier and 7" longer than the Pontiac. Parts book confirms no interchangeability.
  10. When I took a piece out I wondered about that. It seemed to adhere to the linoleum material. However, the new material I found has a cloth backing but not as thick.
  11. I am replacing the running board mat on my 526 sedan. I have found the top material from Restoration Supply but am looking for the material under the mat. From the attached photo it looks like a burlap material. Does anybody have a source for this original material or is there a more modern material that will work better? Any experience/help will be appreciated. Rob I am replacing the running board mat on my 1928 Packard 526 Sedan. I have found the mat material from Restoration Supply matches what I have there now. But I need to get the material that goes under the matting. From t
  12. The main problem I have with my '30 and '32 Pontiac signaling turns is that my arm gets tired when there is a long light.....
  13. I am posting for a friend. I posted this car last year with a higher price.
  14. That is a good suggestion. I had somebody invite me to check out that site when I first got the car and have not done it. I looked at the '29 colors and there are a couple that were used in '28 so I have a couple of more pieces of the puzzle. I don't know why I am spending so much time with this since I don't plan to paint the car right now. It may be a long while before I get to that job. The car is a running 'barn find' but somebody painted the wheels a terrible yellow along the way and I am putting on new tires and figure it is a good time to powder coat the wheels the original color.
  15. Does anybody have a copy of the paint colors (chips not words) available on a 1928 526 closed car (303)? I have descriptions of the paint schemes with the names of the colors but no idea what the colors look like. I have attached a photo of the back of one of the wheels of my car and I think it may be Chicadee Green. Does anybody have information to confirm this? Also, does anybody know if there are paint codes somewhere on the body? I found the plate with serial number and body number in the rear passenger compartment but I can't find any reference to paint codes. I find that interest
×
×
  • Create New...