Mark Shaw

Looks right to me as long as it is heavy lube (SAE 250 or 600wt depending on what scale you use).

Are you suggesting that year to year judging may be inconsistent? Well, slap my face and call me silly!

Ted, The Oldham Ring on one of my Buicks had multiple holes drilled in it with graphite inserts to lubricate the bearing as it wears.

I use Red Kote by Damon Industries for gas tanks and for coating cork floats.

Ted, Yes I do, but not specifically for your year and model Buick. What do you need?

Portland Swap Meet Homepage

Cone clutch components didn't change much until 1916.

Xander, I Was a volunteer at WAAM West. I was told that every item on the car is an original Chevrolet accessory.

Xander, I believe this 41 Chev belonged to the recently deceased Ron Wade. His collection now belongs to the WAAAM Museum of Hood Rv. Oregon. This car is said to have every original accessory offered on 1941 Chevrolet cars.

Once again, my knowledge of engine development has now been expanded. This paper and the seminar about high octane fuel development for WWII aircraft that I attended at the WAAAM Museum in Hood Rv. OR validates how these developments were critical components in winning the war. John, thank you for posting this!

I suggest you contact Corky Coker. He has an American Underslung.

1924 Buick Master Six “Cut Down” Pickup Originally a Seven Passenger Model 49 Touring Car Original Specifications Wheelbase: 120” Curb Weight: 3645 lbs. Brakes: 4, Mechanical Transmission: 3 speed “Crash Box” Engine: Straight 6 OHV Horsepower: 70 HP @2800 RPM Bore: 3 3/8” Stroke: 4 ¾” Displacement: 255 cu. in. Driveline: Torque Tube Special Features The 1924 Master Six Buicks were noted for having larger displacement engines, stronger frames and axles, and were the first Buicks built with mechanical brakes on all four wheels. Although this Buick was originally a big touring car, it was cut down to become a farm truck. Midwest farmers are known not to waste anything, & often cut down the family car to become a farm truck. This particular Buick was originally restored by Jeff Lewis and his father in Des Moines, IA. It was sold on E-bay in 2006 & driven on the BCA Prewar After Tour. In 2007, this Buick was also driven from Vancouver, WA to Bellevue, WA for the 2007 BCA National; & from Bellevue, WA to Anacortes, WA on the Prewar After Tour to the San Juan Islands. Details Perfectly functioning starter-generator. These units are rare and difficult to get working properly - they serve as both the engine starter as well as the charging system. Correct vintage restored tool kit including air pump - grease gun for correct fittings - hand crank - hub spanner - rim separator - and a hand tool set. Original vintage accessories including front & rear bumpers (rear not mounted), spotlight, wiper, and rear-view mirrors. 6-volt electrical system works perfectly with good frame ground and battery disconnect. Excellently detailed vintage components like leather fan belt - hand built water return pipe, Klaxon horn, under bonnet oil can, engine plates, gages and meters, etc. Spare head & NOS valve guides are also included. Asking $12,500 located in Vancouver WA USA. Wood strip canoe may be sold separately. Please send a private message if interested.

My late father had the answer. He was in High School during the war & drove a 1931 Model 67 Buick (Exactly like the one I have today). That car used a Silphon thermostat to operate louvers for temperature control. Gasoline was rationed during the war, but he could get all the Kerosene he wanted. So, he disconnected the thermostat and used a wire to manually operate the louvers. He would start the car on gasoline and pull the louvers closed to heat up the engine before switching to kerosene. By adjusting the louvers, he could keep the engine running hotter to minimize the heavy white smoke the kerosene produced when it didn't burn hot enough. He had a great story about this too. He and his brother would take their dates to a local dance hall on weekends. Entry fees were charged just ahead of the parking lot but there was a side road around the back of the dance hall that was in view of the fee takers. When he got to the side road, he opened the louvers and created a smoke screen so he could sneak around the back for free! I don't know if it is true, but it is a great story.

The most cost effective solution is to make this into a fun speedster.

Here is another for prewar Buicks: PBR@BrassBuicks.groups.io | Messages

Welcome Ray, I am sure you will find those on this forum very helpful. 1934 Buicks are just about my favorite body style.

BB@BrassBuicks.groups.io | Home

Roger, You seem to be over-thinking this. The technical reason is that water was the most cost-effective and readily available coolant used through the 20's in ambient pressure coolant systems. I think the engineers of the day were not looking for the optimum temperatures for bearings or lubricants. They probably just wanted the engine to be cool enough to keep running.

Old cars run better hot (just before they boil over). If it doesn't boil, leave it alone.

Shipping from where?

Roger, I encourage you to sell the core to someone who has good top & bottom tanks. IMO, wall hangers should never be usable parts.

Gentlemen: Please keep in mind that not everyone in this hobby is a trophy hunter. Those of us who enjoy our mostly un-restored "Driver Cars", appreciate and preserve the bumps and bruises our cars have endured over the years. Unlike "Show Car" owners, we are not afraid to drive these cars for fear of getting them scratched or rock chipped due to many miles of driving on beautiful un-paved back roads; just as they were driven back in the days when they were new. I am financially capable of restoring my cars to pristine condition, but I choose not to. I like them as Driver Cars because I feel free to drive them and enjoy them as they were meant to be driven. Last year I repaired two leaks in my 1908 Model F Buick radiator. One was in the bottom tank mount and the other in the lower section of the "Bottle Cap" core. It was a rather involved process that required much preparation of the metal to take solder, but it worked well and is still holding up nicely. I have since driven it on two tours with no need to add coolant. With a bit if research and watching a few YouTube videos, you can do it too.

Aired up the tires from 40# cold to 50# Thursday AM in preparation for a potential buyer from CA to check out my 24 PU. I picked him up at the airport at 11:30, bought lunch and drove to the Buick Barn. He told me he owns a Packard and a 28 Buick that is a driver he is still restoring, so I thought he knew how to drive an old car. I started up the PU, eased it out the door and took him for a half mile ride through all three gears before letting him drive it. He immediately dropped the clutch and stalled it. He had trouble finding the throttle pedal & clutch while driving. It reminded me of teaching a teenager to drive a clutch for the first time. When we returned to the Buick Barn, we found the RR tire was flat because he had spun the tire and sheared the valve stem when he dropped the clutch. I am really not sure I want to sell my PU to this guy... I fixed the tire; and it is still for sale....

Downloaded years ago: These are fairly easy to repair. Perform an air leak-down test using 5-10 pounds of air. If necessary, solder the repair which is usually a crack in the bellows section. When disassembled, use bright light against the suspected section to see the leak area. After soldering together, fill the unit half way (and I mean only half way) with Methyl Alcohol using the "soldered over" fill area in the rear of the unit. You can also replace the soldered fill hole with a machine screw and nylon washer with sealant. Using the machine screw method also makes it easier to perform the leak-down test. Methyl Alcohol is used in some brands of Dry Gas products, so read the labels carefully. I found mine at a local Rite Aid drug store. Do not use Ethyl or Isopropel alcohol. Test the unit in a pot of boiling water before reinstalling. Cost of Solder: $2.50 Cost of Dry Gas: $2.99 Repairing it yourself: Priceless! Note: Heet Gasoline Additive is readily available at auto parts stores: The specific active ingredients of HEET and ISO-HEET are methanol and isopropanol, respectively.

Dave, My 1931 Buick Model 67 does have aluminum pistons and it runs very smooth. I suggest you make sure the distributor advance & dual points are properly adjusted & lubricated.